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It has come time to replace the clutch in my SVT. Would you guys suggest doing myself, or just taking it in to do? How much of a PITA is it on this car? Is it worth it to just take it in? I do have all the tools needed and I've replaced clutches before, just not on a FWD car. Imput would be appreciated.
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It is a lot of work. The trans comes out of the bottom after removing the front subframe. You must support the engine from the top before removing the subframe.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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I have no life
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Lots of work. Not for the inexperianced. AS Jim stated you need a cherry picker to support the engine as the subframe needs to be dropped. You need to seperate the ball joint from the hub and pull the drivers side axle. Those are the main points. This guy in the tranaxle forum is doing his. Link.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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It's easier just to pull the entire powertrain through the top.
Also that makes it easier for separating and attaching the two parts as well.
I would not even bother to drop the subframe if you don't have a lift.
It is the longer and more difficult method plus the fact how many people have the proper alignment tools for the power train and the subframe? 
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
It's easier just to pull the entire powertrain through the top.
Also that makes it easier for separating and attaching the two parts as well.
I would not even bother to drop the subframe if you don't have a lift.
It is the longer and more difficult method plus the fact how many people have the proper alignment tools for the power train and the subframe?
I had no real problems dropping my subframe in my garage alone. The hardest thing I hit was getting the darn shift rod out, other than that it was really not that big a deal.
As for subframe alignment - there are holes in the subframe that are supposed to line up with holes in the frame. I just used one of my big deep well impact sockets that fit the holes tightly and pushed and tugged on the frame untill it slid in smoothly all around.
Also, you'd still need the powertrain alignment if you pull the engine out the top - but with a solid urethane filled FMM if your bolt won't slide in the hole then it's not aligned properly.
If you have todras's ford service manual just follow it line by line and the subframe drops right out.
This is more or less what the ford manual says:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/d4/42/0900823d801bd442.jsp
Lot's to it, but like I said - step by step and it's not that bad.
Last edited by ScottK; 03/28/05 11:46 PM.
97 Contour SE MTX
K&N 3530, UR UDP, 19# Injectors, mystery mod, FMS wires, Fordchip.com chip, SVT: TB, Flywheel, clutch, exhaust
04 Grand Caravan SXT
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I'm doing 2, yes 2 in my driveway right now with a cherry picker and going through the bottm. Screw pulling the whole engine! 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Staz will have so much experience he'll be able to do it in 15 min. 
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Originally posted by Stazi:
I'm doing 2, yes 2 in my driveway right now with a cherry picker and going through the bottm. Screw pulling the whole engine!
Why? It is only four hours total to pull the whole powertrain through the top and it makes it a hell of a lot easier to put the trans back on. You don't actually have to open the engine in any way to do it either.
??
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Unhooking the A/C and the powersteering is just annoying, IMO.
I can drop a trans so quick now the way I do it, that it's second nature to me.
I agree that I'm 80% there, but the less invasive I can be the more I like it.
PS - when I dropped Conor7's trans last night the clutch hat SCATTERED it's guts everhwere. All the springs has dislodged and one of them was anihilated!  It looked like someone had dropped a hanfull of springs, nuts and bolts into the bellhousing! 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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What do you do with the cherry picker? Does that hold the engine in place when you drop the subframe? Is there two engine mounts that hold the engine the rest of the car...would that be sufcient to hold it in place?
Trying to figure out if I can do a swap myself. Might pick up an extra trans, build it up(inside and out) and then swap it.
Thanks!
Brian W. -------------------- Black 1998 SE 5 speed - TOTALLED
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