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ok you might recall that I installed a bigger MAF claimed gains and most of you said no way. Well I replaced my injectors today with 30lb ford injectors, because my factory ones were having trouble with the increased pressure necessary because of the bigger MAF. So I, without thinking, decided that I could remove the rest of the restriction in the bigger MAF since the bigger injectors would make up for the air not being measured. Well they helped but I should have calibrated the fuel pressure with the new injectors before I modified the MAF any, thats the without thinking part. So now the car would only run lean so I figured I could extend the wires holding the MAF sensor resistors so that the resistors where in the middle of the MAF therefor measuring more airflow. Well I found out that the wires supporting the resistors won't solder. So I put the car back together with the resistors removed from the MAF and started it up. It idled at 2k rpm then went to 1k rpm after it warmed up a little. Heres the wierd part, it now pulls much stronger even till redline, I even had my bro in law ride along and he noticed the change as well. So basically I have no MAF but it is definately faster and doesn't go lean, in fact the O2 gauge reacts instantly where before there was a slight delay between flooring it and it going rich. Yes I know the O2 sensors aren't very accurate so get over it already. Anyway why the gain?
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Originally posted by 96mercury: ok you might recall that I installed a bigger MAF claimed gains and most of you said no way. Well I replaced my injectors today with 30lb ford injectors, because my factory ones were having trouble with the increased pressure necessary because of the bigger MAF. So I, without thinking, decided that I could remove the rest of the restriction in the bigger MAF since the bigger injectors would make up for the air not being measured. Well they helped but I should have calibrated the fuel pressure with the new injectors before I modified the MAF any, thats the without thinking part. So now the car would only run lean so I figured I could extend the wires holding the MAF sensor resistors so that the resistors where in the middle of the MAF therefor measuring more airflow. Well I found out that the wires supporting the resistors won't solder. So I put the car back together with the resistors removed from the MAF and started it up. It idled at 2k rpm then went to 1k rpm after it warmed up a little. Heres the wierd part, it now pulls much stronger even till redline, I even had my bro in law ride along and he noticed the change as well. So basically I have no MAF but it is definately faster and doesn't go lean, in fact the O2 gauge reacts instantly where before there was a slight delay between flooring it and it going rich. Yes I know the O2 sensors aren't very accurate so get over it already. Anyway why the gain?
So get over it?
Why'd you post this crap anyway? I haven't decided whether you posted it because you are proud of yourself, unsure and want advice, or what?
So let me assume you put it on to seek reassurance... Then let me say that was very foolish to cut apart your maf and try to move the resistors. They are welded on, not soldered. They are calibrated at a certain distance with those special metal posts and there isn't a damn thing anyone can do to change that. EVEN PRO-M won't move the resistors because the MAF is useless afterwards.
So as to it pulling stronger: It is probably running leaner, that will make your car pull stronger. It is very possible that you are running close to detonation but you could be lucky and the car is injecting a precalculated amount of fuel when you have a non-functional MAF.
You should put a new MAF in. Don't worry about the restriction of the center post because it isn't a restriction! It won't hurt one bit. Then buy an SAFC or eManage and tune in your Air Fuel. That way you have reprogramability. Break down and do the $75-$150 for 2-3 dyno runs with some A/F data and tune the car in.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by warmonger: Originally posted by 96mercury: ok you might recall that I installed a bigger MAF claimed gains and most of you said no way. Well I replaced my injectors today with 30lb ford injectors, because my factory ones were having trouble with the increased pressure necessary because of the bigger MAF. So I, without thinking, decided that I could remove the rest of the restriction in the bigger MAF since the bigger injectors would make up for the air not being measured. Well they helped but I should have calibrated the fuel pressure with the new injectors before I modified the MAF any, thats the without thinking part. So now the car would only run lean so I figured I could extend the wires holding the MAF sensor resistors so that the resistors where in the middle of the MAF therefor measuring more airflow. Well I found out that the wires supporting the resistors won't solder. So I put the car back together with the resistors removed from the MAF and started it up. It idled at 2k rpm then went to 1k rpm after it warmed up a little. Heres the wierd part, it now pulls much stronger even till redline, I even had my bro in law ride along and he noticed the change as well. So basically I have no MAF but it is definately faster and doesn't go lean, in fact the O2 gauge reacts instantly where before there was a slight delay between flooring it and it going rich. Yes I know the O2 sensors aren't very accurate so get over it already. Anyway why the gain?
So get over it?
Why'd you post this crap anyway? I haven't decided whether you posted it because you are proud of yourself, unsure and want advice, or what?
So let me assume you put it on to seek reassurance... Then let me say that was very foolish to cut apart your maf and try to move the resistors. They are welded on, not soldered. They are calibrated at a certain distance with those special metal posts and there isn't a damn thing anyone can do to change that. EVEN PRO-M won't move the resistors because the MAF is useless afterwards.
So as to it pulling stronger: It is probably running leaner, that will make your car pull stronger. It is very possible that you are running close to detonation but you could be lucky and the car is injecting a precalculated amount of fuel when you have a non-functional MAF.
You should put a new MAF in. Don't worry about the restriction of the center post because it isn't a restriction! It won't hurt one bit. Then buy an SAFC or eManage and tune in your Air Fuel. That way you have reprogramability. Break down and do the $75-$150 for 2-3 dyno runs with some A/F data and tune the car in.
Not to start anything big here but that is even if he is telling the truth.
For example he says he did ATX-MTX swap but didnt swap the engines, which is impossible because MTX engines have a pilot bearing on the end of the crankshaft for the clutch. So he couldnt have swapped the trans. and not the engine as well.
So who really knows with this guy.
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UM actually I am telling the truth HITMANI the engines are the same dude the bearing that you are talking about goes in the flywheel. Do a search using my username in the transaxle forumn for the last 6 months. I already posted pics a while ago when my clutch went out and I compared the factory vs stock. Besides why lie about the swap, are you jeolous because I have or what? No wonder people leave this board its BS like this! You want pics fine http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid151/pce32299f8203b73add32c9a90568cb6c/f5d037ef.jpghttp://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid153/p34ad992fceac8feb09e210d57848ce3c/f58a43cd.jpghttp://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid154/p0a2d0ffa1103591bccf7df49806403fc/f57625a4.jpg.thumb.jpghttp://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid154/p82305e941e3d6e6912ded0a16dad83ca/f57625a0.jpgAnyway I was looking for answers and support because it didn't make sense why it responded like it did. I am gonna have to get another MAF now but thats only $20 at the J yard. I am actually offended that when I ask for help some people go off and call stuff "crap" ect. You know what its pessimistic attitudes like this that make it amazing that we have the technology we have today. I just don't understand what your problem is seriously! So what it didn't hurt, won't cost much to undo and I learned quite a bit from the experience and education is key! So anyway yeah I am definately gonna need to spend the money on a few dyno runs, there is one at my school but they don't really know how to use it to tune. BTW I post this stuff so that other people who have questions can search and find out if it works or not.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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I have no life
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Don't worry about hitman. He's not the smartest tree that's fallen off the nut.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Thanks Kermit I appreciate the support Yeah and I meant to say factory compared tp spec stage 1.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Well, when my origional engine blew, the replacement was from a ATX. The difference was the bellhousing guide studs were different and had to be swapped, I think a little hammer and chisle action. And the crank position sensor housing was different and needed to be swapped. Took one bolt but if you'd already put the engine in the car you had to pull the engine and take off the clutch to get at that one bolt. Other than that it was a easy swap.
I am still leary about messing with the MAF and injectors without a chip. But if you do decide to go electronic, don't just buy the Emanage or AFC. For more money you can guy the SCT tuner software and reprogram your whole ECU not just your AF. It costs twice as much as the AFC, and you'll need a computer to hook it up to, but it controlls timing and can get rid of certain check engine lights and move the rev limiter and speed limiter. Worth the extra dough.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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The ECU will learn around the S-AFC and any other "signal changing" electronics.
Frank McCoy aka Mod-deth aka Mid Life Crisis aka SVT Doood aka mcgainer is a SCAM ARTIST
Pre98 Zetec - Some Mods
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Originally posted by SleeperZ: The ECU will learn around the S-AFC and any other "signal changing" electronics.
?????? i've never heard that about the safc...if thats true wouldnt it learn around the chip aswell?? since it changes signals
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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Originally posted by tour96se: Originally posted by SleeperZ: The ECU will learn around the S-AFC and any other "signal changing" electronics.
?????? i've never heard that about the safc...if thats true wouldnt it learn around the chip aswell?? since it changes signals
Chip actually plugs onto the processor. The SAFC doesn't.
Hector
2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII
257HP/259TQ
2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s
RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED
160HP/141TQ
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