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Sometimes a good hard kick to the edge of the rim/tire with your foot helps. I had the same problem. Also, lowering a bit so the car weighs on the wheels with the lugs loosened.

yeah, air wrench will screw them up. I take mine off with air and hand torque on.

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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Originally posted by Matt R:
Have a garage do it for you, much easier with air tools. Then put anti-seeze on the lugs after you get it back, or have the garage do it for you.





NNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

NEVER, EVER, EVER let any mechanic near your wheels with an air wrench!!!! Those things will warp your wheels, cross thread your lug nuts & warp your rotors faster than anything I can think of!! ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS hand tighten the lug nuts! ALWAYS!!!




YUP. listen to the man.


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Originally posted by Matt R:
Then put anti-seeze on the lugs after you get it back, or have the garage do it for you.




Anti on the lug nuts?!!!!!!!!! HELL NO!!!!! On the rotor or dump surface that mats to the wheels yes.


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Anit-seeze = anti-lock

Anti-lock= anti-fuggin wheel is gonna come loose.


Hope you enjoyed your math lesson for today.

Yes, put it on the wheel back where the rim mate's to the hub... that where corrosion happens the must because most rims are not chromed, painted, treated on the rear. UNtreated raw mettal against raw metal means corrosion.


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My bad. And I meant, have them do the rotation, etc, and when you get it back, loosen the lugs and retighten by hand. Won't hurt in the short distance back from the garage, unless they really mess it up.


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Originally posted by LilRedRocket:
UNtreated raw mettal against raw metal means corrosion.




Very true, especially if you have aluminum wheels. Perhaps an engineer can better explain this, but when two dissimilar metals (aluminum wheel and steel brake drum) are moving together, an electric field is created which accelerates corrosion at the interface of the two metals.

Anti-seize is great stuff!


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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
NEVER, EVER, EVER let any mechanic near your wheels with an air wrench!!!! Those things will warp your wheels, cross thread your lug nuts & warp your rotors faster than anything I can think of!! ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS hand tighten the lug nuts! ALWAYS!!!





About rotors warping, I've heard of over tightening lug nuts warping rotors, but I don't quite understand how it does.

Also, my car has a shimmy like thing at around 40-50, didn't have it before I took the one wheel off a while ago while doing some maintenence.

I can feel it in the steering wheel more than anywhere else, and it's annoying. I think it's a little better after I took off that wheel and put it back on the other day (the only wheel i could get off), but it's not gone.

Is this warped rotors? Or did my taking off and putting the wheel back on have something to do with it?
Thanks, and thanks for all the tips on removing wheels guys!

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sounds like you are out of balance. Make sure there is no dirt or mud on your wheel, and put it on again, being careful to center it this time, before you snug the nuts.

heh - "snug the nuts" - that sounds dirty


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Originally posted by 98ford2L:

About rotors warping, I've heard of over tightening lug nuts warping rotors, but I don't quite understand how it does.




It just does, my rotors were warped because I let Wal-Mart do my tires and all the rotations and balances...if they over torque the lugs they are essentially putting localized pressure on certain areas of the disc causing it to bent further in areas....drive that with 6000 miles and you have a problem. Hand tighten, Hand Crank, Do it yourself. Lot better than 180.00 for 4 new rotors...


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