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Studs don't flex
Studs hold and locate the conical seats on the nuts
The friction between the stud and wheel can and do hold the wheel on
So, unless the hubs are incorrectly drilled or the wheels are drilled wrong, your studs can locate the wheels without any other help.
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Me: Quote:
Hubcentric rings are unnecessary. They're there to make even torquing of the lugs easier when installing the wheels. They carry no weight of the car and are not part of the problem.
You:
Quote:
Stop trying to get in the last word and admit: rings are not 100% neccessary to get a wheel centered, but they are a good idea, because they make centering a sure thing.
You just told me I am wrong but I am right.
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Originally posted by weargle:
Me:
Quote:
Hubcentric rings are unnecessary. They're there to make even torquing of the lugs easier when installing the wheels. They carry no weight of the car and are not part of the problem.
You:
Quote:
Stop trying to get in the last word and admit: rings are not 100% neccessary to get a wheel centered, but they are a good idea, because they make centering a sure thing.
You just told me I am wrong but I am right.
Your basic premise is correct. That's why I don't understand all your arguing. The things wrong with that statement are:
Hubcentric rings are unnecessary. - well, yes, but they help a lot. no biggie.
They're there to make even torquing of the lugs easier when installing the wheels. - no, they are there to keep the wheel centered while you torque it. Close, but if that's what you meant, you didn't phrase it well.
They carry no weight of the car... - correct! It's all the friction, just like your math showed.
...and are not part of the problem. - wrong. If you mounted his tires, I bet he would not have an issue. I think that rings would let anyone mount those big, heavy wheels with no problems, and so if he gets rings, he'll be okay. That last sentence is the problem: this thread it about his problem, and rings will probably help fit it.
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I'm not arguing, I'm just proving that I'm not wrong. So far I've been called "dumb" "moron" "thick-skulled" and "poser". But I haven't been proven wrong either. One would think that an engineer would be able to cite either a journal or a textbook that states that his premise is true if so.
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Originally posted by weargle:
I'm not arguing, I'm just proving that I'm not wrong. So far I've been called "dumb" "moron" "thick-skulled" and "poser". But I haven't been proven wrong either. One would think that an engineer would be able to cite either a journal or a textbook that states that his premise is true if so.
OK smart-ass
Go get the "Handbook of Bolts and Bolted Joints" -Bickford/Nassar
Maybe you can read something and learn how bolted joints work.
And seeing as you only believe in things from the internet  , here is a good paper on bolted joints.
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_1.htm
Quote:
The other type of joint is loaded by shear force (Fs). In a joint loaded in shear, the friction between the parts keep them from moving when subject to a shear force. The friction between the parts carries the load, not the fastener
This explains the function of a flanged joint, which is what a wheel and hub is.
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Cool. Now that the world knows how bolts work, explain why a hub centering ring is necessary as it hold exactly zero load?
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Never said it holds any load. It ENSURES that the wheel will be cented EVERY time the wheel is removed and reinstalled.
Are you a Gold-Fish as you seem to have a VERY short term memory. 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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You have painted yourself into a corner. If the bolts don't flex and the conical seat is properly engaged, how is misalignment possible? Umm, it isn't. Now, if you put the wheels on wrong and load them up before snugging down the nuts, then sure. But in that case, you are an idiot.
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The bolts will bend to a certain degree (to conform to the wheel seats) and then snap if the combination of the bending stress and shear stress due to elngation exceeds the yield strength of the bolt. As such if the bolt location are not controlled accurately enough for on the hub (as there function is not for locating, only for providing clamp-load) then the conical seats in the wheel, which is stiffer than the studs, will force the bolts to bend once enough friction has been created to prevent the wheel face from slipping across the face of the hub. Therefore if you are not centered as the torque is applied, you won't ever be. The rings are an extension of the hub and will provide a stiff enough locator to overcome the stiffness of the studs and thus will ENSURE the the wheel stays centered regardless of the stud misalignment. Consequently, sheaper wheels with poor quality control on the bolt hole tolerancing can cause recurrant stud breakage. ?FYI, I have the prints for the Contour hubs, my company made them (SKF) and they were made in our plant in South Carolina. So I'm CERTAIN I have more info than you n the tolerancing for the studs versus the tolerancing for the wheel hub pilot.  Go f#$k yourself - You're the idiot.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Go f#$k yourself - You're the idiot.
I've never resorted to namecalling. Why the vitriol?
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