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Ive posted on this before...no emergency but its still a problem for some reason...curious whats going on here....
My passenger side front parking light and rear light are out. The flasher filaments in both work just fine.
It continues to blow fuse 35 which is 7.5 Amps.
I took her to Ford and they dont know either.
They put in a 10amp fuse instead and it worked for about 3 weeks and now its back to blowing the fuse again.
I cant really tell where the wiring harness goes so I dont even know where to begin to look even though I have the wiring diagram
If anyone has any advice it would help alot!! thanks!
" 90 percent of all chevys are still on the road.
The other 10 made it home "
98 se, 2.5 V6,black,ATX
Cleared and silverstared, Hella Optilux, resonatorless, Kumho ECSTA 716s and Dunlop SP Sport A2s
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Check the wiring at the headlight switch. I've seen the plug for the hl switch pretty melted in the past. I think there was even a TSB on it. I know I've had a couple that have had a new plug pigtail installed with larger gauge wires so since I've seen so many with the problem I would suggest to check it out on your Contour.
Parting out 95-97 Contours/Mystiques. Contact me directly at ALFIGOLS@yahoo.com if you're looking for a particular part.
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A quick SEARCH of this forum for "F35" brought up this previous F35 thread. Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Should I be looking at the switch first or goin hunting in the hundreds of bundled wires? Did Phil ever figure this problem out with his?
" 90 percent of all chevys are still on the road.
The other 10 made it home "
98 se, 2.5 V6,black,ATX
Cleared and silverstared, Hella Optilux, resonatorless, Kumho ECSTA 716s and Dunlop SP Sport A2s
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Joined: Jan 2005
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New CEG\'er
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Assuming you have the right bulbs in those sockets, I'd say your short is located after fuse 35. If you had a short before the fuse (i.e., main light switch), you would blow the 20 amp fuse 10, not fuse 35.
Remove both front and rear passenger side park lamp bulbs and turn your lights on. If it doesn't blow fuse 35, then the wiring is OK. If it blows, disconnect the connectors at the bulb sockets and check again. If it still blows, the wiring in faulty. If it doesn't, isolate the faulty bulb socket by connecting one connector in at a time and rechecking.
If it passes these tests, install one bulb at a time to check the bulb-to-socket connections.
Last edited by stuvx; 02/24/05 07:27 AM.
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Ok, well i took the carpet spare tire cover out and pulled back the carpet on both sides and there was quite a bit of water and ice under the harness and by the ground so i wraped all that up and its working ok now. Stuvx, I did exactly what you said to do with pulling each bulb out and trying it and the fuse never blew so im assuming that my wiring is ok. It could have been my silverstars though too so I took those out and put the stock amber corners back in. I drove around and everything seems to work now. So who knows. That might haved worked but only time will tell.
" 90 percent of all chevys are still on the road.
The other 10 made it home "
98 se, 2.5 V6,black,ATX
Cleared and silverstared, Hella Optilux, resonatorless, Kumho ECSTA 716s and Dunlop SP Sport A2s
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Joined: Aug 2002
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Ok, bad news, the fuse didnt blow for most of the day today but it blew tonight. I have no idea whats going on. It seems to be when I punch the gas a bit, thats when the fuse blows. The dash lights go out for a split second and then go back on. Could this be the voltage regulator? Any ideas?
" 90 percent of all chevys are still on the road.
The other 10 made it home "
98 se, 2.5 V6,black,ATX
Cleared and silverstared, Hella Optilux, resonatorless, Kumho ECSTA 716s and Dunlop SP Sport A2s
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Put the 7.5 amp fuse back in there, remove the front bulb on that circuit, and see if the problem persists.
Once that test is done, successful or not, install the front, remove the rear & see what happens.
Should help you track down the culprit.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Ok Phil and everyone else; great news! For future reference and for anyone that has this problem in the future:The problem was the wire harness that goes to the trunk! Fold the rear seat down (the side behind the driver seat) and look at the hinge point of the seat. There should be the wire hareness there that goes to both rear lights in the trunk (bundle of like 10 wires) One of the wires (the power to the passenger side tail light was frayed and was rubbing against the metal hinge. Ford didnt run these wires in a good spot and didnt leave enough length. Just wrap them up good and try to tuck it in somewhere away from the hinge.
" 90 percent of all chevys are still on the road.
The other 10 made it home "
98 se, 2.5 V6,black,ATX
Cleared and silverstared, Hella Optilux, resonatorless, Kumho ECSTA 716s and Dunlop SP Sport A2s
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Great find! I sure hope this is it.....
98 Silver Frost SVT
97 BMW 540I Sport, six speed
"Blue is for sky, black is for soil, and white is for simplicity, purity and hope for the future"
"A coveted car should never stunt your life, but should make it more rich and interesting."
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