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Ebay Yay or Nay?? Lemme know.
1998.5 SVT contour #5979 3L 
1995 Mercury Mystique 2.5L auto, all ghetto fo sho
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Nay.
Get Stazi brake kit. Outstanding quality, low dust, very effective stock replacements for a reasonable price. I recently got two sets for my two Contours and I am delighted with them.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Nay.
Get Stazi brake kit. Outstanding quality, low dust, very effective stock replacements for a reasonable price. I recently got two sets for my two Contours and I am delighted with them.
Agreed. Stazi has some great brakes at great prices. If you want the look of drilled and slotted, that's all you get. They are for looks for the most part. Check some old posts about this... or ask Stazi why they are no better for braking performance. I think it may be in the sticky in this board.
2000 CSVT Silver Frost: #942 of 2150
HID Projectors and Fog Light Mod, Optomized TB, MSDS headers
2003 Silverstone Z
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Nothing against Stazi, but why don't you just go to the local parts store and get the Bendix pads and some quality rotors?  Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Nay.
Get Stazi brake kit. Outstanding quality, low dust, very effective stock replacements for a reasonable price. I recently got two sets for my two Contours and I am delighted with them.
Ryan
Trollin!
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Drilled and slotted rotors do nothing for the performance of your brakes. Get them only if you feel that you must have them for looks, and be aware that drilling and slotting may actually decrease the life of the rotors. In mild street use you may never have a problem, but drilling and slotting increases the possibility of rotors cracking along those machined areas.
If indeed you want to buy drilled and slotted rotors off ebay, they are usually priced at about $100.00 less then shown on this link.
Any plating that is done on the rotors (cad, zinc, anadozing, dacromat, etc) should only be considered as temperary. The friction face will have the coating removed within a few hundred miles. It will last a lot longer on other surfaces but if indeed you want the rotor to not eventually get a rusty look to it, paint it. Think of the coating as paint preperation. Caliper paint works well enough, as does barbeque paint. The paint is somewhat temporary too. You may want to touch it up after a couple of years. A little bit of overspray on the friction face will not hurt, but don't intentionally paint it. The paint will tend to contaminate the brake pads.
Edit:
I didn't catch it at first, but I thought the price was for rotors only. That isn't a bad price including metal master pads. Personally, I don't care for metal masters. Others have had better luck than I have.
Last edited by Big Jim; 02/16/05 11:21 PM.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Sorry i did not see this other thread though here are the FAQ follow>----> Slotted Rotors- Revisited FAQ: Slotted/ cross drilled
Originally posted by Big Jim:
Drilled and slotted rotors do nothing for the performance of your brakes. Get them only if you feel that you must have them for looks, and be aware that drilling and slotting may actually decrease the life of the rotors.
First off I'm not trying to knock you, just inquiring for more info.
Q:If drilled and slotted rotors do nothing for braking performance then why do they used them on the Lemans GT cars? There was an article link in a post awhile ago that explained this in detail, IIRC.
From what i have read,cross drilled rotors are made primarily for cars equipped with integrated "brake ducts" like Porsche's,BMW and Corvettes.
This channel of air forces its way from behind the rotor out through the holes, causing a cooling affect. Yes they will probably eat up pads a lot quicker.
I hear all the time "don't get Cross drilled rotors they will crack after a few months" well if you buy crap rotors, I'm sure they will, and if you don't have ture brake ducts you may be at more of a risk as well. If one were to buy Brembo rotors, "cross drilled by Brembo" they would be ok.
The failure rate tests these rotors go through is like 300%,engineers design them this way so covers the legality issues of being liable etc.
please feel free to correct me. Once again I'm not trying to argue, just my $.02
Last edited by BlackSleeper; 02/17/05 09:49 PM.
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Originally posted by BlackSleeper:
First off I'm not trying to knock you, just inquiring for more info.
No problem, that's what the board is for.
Quote:
Q:If drilled and slotted rotors do nothing for braking performance then why do they used them on the Lemans GT cars? There was an article link in a post awhile ago that explained this in detail, IIRC.
They don't. Its not used in either Le Mans or ALMS. in fact, most of the big guns run carbon-carbon, not cast iron. In carbon brakes, there are series of small dimples used for on the fly wear measurements. These are often mistaken for cross drilling.
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From what i have read,cross drilled rotors are made primarily for cars equipped with integrated "brake ducts" like Porsche's,BMW and Corvettes.
WHat you have read is wrong. Cross drilling was originaly implemented on racing vehicles in the 50's/60's due to pad outgassing. Because of the pad material of the day, those pads would heat up and release hot gasses from the pads. These gasses would cause a boundary layer which was difficult to compress and caused an artificial fade condition. Modern pads simply don't have this condition any longer. However, much like alloy wheels and rear spoilers, the "racing look" caught on, and became derigor in street performance vehicles.
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This channel of air forces its way from behind the rotor out through the holes, causing a cooling affect.
Not quite. Cooling effect is marginal, no street driver will ever notice the effect. The only noticible contribution of x-drilled rotors to most drivers is an improved first effectiveness in wet condtions....i.e. better bite in the wet. The only place that x-drilling shows any significant cooling effect is on applications of CCM or Ceramic Composite Matrix discs...ala Ferrari Enzo, Challenge Stradale, 575 GTC, F430. However, Ceramics have a tremendously different heat cycle and disipation method. Not relevant in this discussion.
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Yes they will probably eat up pads a lot quicker.
Not probably, will. THey are much more aggressive with friction material, as are slotted.
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I hear all the time "don't get Cross drilled rotors they will crack after a few months" well if you buy crap rotors, I'm sure they will, and if you don't have ture brake ducts you may be at more of a risk as well. If one were to buy Brembo rotors, "cross drilled by Brembo" they would be ok.
Well, as an engineer for Brembo, I certainly appreciate the good publicity. However, it is unwarented. Our x-drilled rotors will crack too. I know, I have tested them on the dyno and the track. All cross drilled rotors will crackunder track stress and heat cycles, as the drilling creates a stress concentration point...it can't be avoided. There is a reason that Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini etc all run solid faced rotors on their race cars. However, under street conditions it is rarely a serious condition. In addition, a proper disc design ( hole size, chamfer, relation to venitng, etc.) can help prolong the life of a drilled disc.
Quote:
The failure rate tests these rotors go through is like 300%,engineers design them this way so covers the legality issues of being liable etc.
Correct, parts are put through an intesnive DV/PV test plan. However, the duty life of a drilled rotor isn't as long as a solid faced part.
Quote:
please feel free to correct me. Once again I'm not trying to argue, just my $.02
No problem. X-drilled rotors are misunderstood and mismarketed all over the place. Given today's technology and braking systems, x-drilled comes down to one thing...marketing. Its all about the bling. For a track vehicle, its just not suited. For a street vehicle, it rarely poses a problem. In fact, most people will see small cracks around the edges of a drilled rotor and immeadiately scream "failure, get them off, oh the horror!" Bull-sh!t. Cracks on a cross drilled are not necessarily a problem. As long as a crack doesn't exceed 2/3's of the braking surface, or touch an edge...no problem. Same for a solid faced rotor.
As I said, it all comes down to the bling. However, given all of that, I would have no problem placing x-drilled discs on my own car. It rarely sees track time, and I like the look. When my current discs need replaced, x-driled may be the replacement. But then again, I get mine for free...so I'll take what I can.
Cheers,
-Todd 
Very few of life's problems can not be solved with the reasonable application of more horsepower!
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Clap clap clap clap clap clap .....
Thank you, If this has not been set in stone on this forum yet, I hope if anything this thread will,and indeed help clear up future pre-notions of this topic.
Once again Thanks Todd.
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One of the best reads I've had on this topic ever. Well put
2000 CSVT Silver Frost: #942 of 2150
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2003 Silverstone Z
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Drilled/slotted rotors are only good if you race your car, and use your brakes often to slow down at high speeds. The reasoning in having that is when the brakes are at a very high tempeture, a gas will form, so when you apply the brakes, the gas prevents braking, Slotted/drilled rotors allow that gas to escape, and allowing the brakes to function correctly. Drilled/Slotted rotors are also a pain in the ass for those who have to cut them with the Brake Laite(sp?) This is just what I heard from my autoshop teacher though, sounds reasonable since brakes had poor cooling when it was all drum brakes were more insulated, and lacked cooling abilities. Drum brakes suck... 
Former owner of a 1995 Ford Contour GL w/ 2.0L ATX
Proud owner of a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 Vulcan
--Looking for Commodore stuff (Drives, Units, Amiga, games, etc)If anyone has any of this laying around and wants it gone, lemme know --
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