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Got mine today
Thanks! I'll shipping my core after the car comes out of hibernation....

....Sometime in April


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so,
I'm wondering, the alternator seems to be working great, but whenever I run my system really loud at idle, the voltage drops real low. . . .is this a battery related problem, or should I get some capacitors installed in line with the sound system??


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Do you have an Underdrive Pulley? I do, and it's still causing problems even with the performance alternator. I'm going to be buying a alternator overdrive pulley from ZXtuner.

If you don't have a UDP, it could be a battery or wiring problem. Try to find a local place that does free battery testing. It's a quick 5 minute test.

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Originally posted by ssmumich00:
so,
I'm wondering, the alternator seems to be working great, but whenever I run my system really loud at idle, the voltage drops real low. . . .is this a battery related problem, or should I get some capacitors installed in line with the sound system??






Capacitors will only propogate the problem, avoid them.


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I have a similar problem. Whether my system is on or not, at idle my headlights/dash lights dim. Is this a problem with the alt? Would it be solved with an Optima?


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so far it looks to have been the battery, I had it replaced under warranty by optima. . .maybe the last optima was over cycled because the last alternator sucked and killed it? Hard to believe that a crappy ford alternator can kill a yellow top deep cycler in about 1-2 months, but who knows.

As for now, no more light dimming, even at idle. . . .I do notice my Voltage reading starting in the morning at 14.1V and dropping to 13.2-13.4 as drive around during the day. . .at a light, however, if I have EVERYTHING running in the evening with my headlights on, it'll dip to 12.8V. But the minute I accelerate, the voltage reading goes back up to 13.2V. What is the lowest threshold we have to worry and start wondering if the alternator is going?

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Originally posted by ssmumich00:
so far it looks to have been the battery, I had it replaced under warranty by optima. . .maybe the last optima was over cycled because the last alternator sucked and killed it? Hard to believe that a crappy ford alternator can kill a yellow top deep cycler in about 1-2 months, but who knows.

As for now, no more light dimming, even at idle. . . .I do notice my Voltage reading starting in the morning at 14.1V and dropping to 13.2-13.4 as drive around during the day. . .at a light, however, if I have EVERYTHING running in the evening with my headlights on, it'll dip to 12.8V. But the minute I accelerate, the voltage reading goes back up to 13.2V. What is the lowest threshold we have to worry and start wondering if the alternator is going?




I had the same problem with the stock alternator and also with the HO one, but not as bad. My battery is about a year old. I've got an opportunity to pick up an Optima yellow top at Carlisle this weekend. I take it from your post that you would recommend doing this? Is your dimming pretty much gone?


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of course your lights will dim at an idle the HO probally puts out the same amount at idle but at 1500-2000 rpms it puts out a max of 220-240 so your fine, all alternators run like this so its not a problem with the battery, and also the optima batterys work great and they can be drained and recharged with no problem there ment for that type of stuff. i just put a yellow top in my trunk so i dont have anylight dimming peroid.

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since the new battery has been put into place, the dimming is gone. . . .but I'm waiting for the chipping effect to take place, where you beat down a battery over a while and then eventually the battery will not be able to hold a charge as well. . . .the alternator at idle does dip, but the minute I hit the gas, the voltage recovers. . . .if you have the opportunity to get a yellow top, I'd pair it with a HO alternator right off the bat ANYDAY. . . .

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