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#1164868 03/02/05 10:52 PM
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Read the other thread about additional choices for MTX fluid. Should be the second page and I state the specs of the Royal Purple Max Gear gear oil. I also state that I am going to be testing it out. I put it in about 4 days ago but haven't driven the car because I am doing the poly rear motor mount at the same time and the mount hasn't cured yet.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
#1164869 03/04/05 01:27 AM
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I hate to make another "what should I do?" reply, but my situation is a little unique.

I have a grinding going into first gear if not at a complete stop. Seems some other people on the board have the same problem, but it isn't certain if this is normal due to the high stress of that shift or if the first gear synchro is shot. Personally I suspect the synchro, because it only started recently and I have always put it into first before stopping, out of habit.

So demonsvt suggests ATF 3 or 4, because it bites and already has FM in it. But so does Redline MTL, with the added benefit of being good for your gears. So, if the reason for using ATF is it "bites" with its FM, MTL will work fine? And if ATF, 3 or 4? Does it matter?

I just want to delay whatever problem I may have, because finances at the moment aren't going to let me fix it now. And if first gear grind is normal (when not at a stop), I want whatever is best for the tranny. So what should I go with? And should I add friction modifier?

Last edited by stadtsoldat; 03/04/05 01:32 AM.

1999 SVT, Tropic Green No mods yet www.cardomain.com/id/stadtsoldat
#1164870 03/04/05 01:40 AM
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I just replaced my MTX tranny fluid with Redline MTL...like it so far, I cant hear the gears engaging into gear from the outside anymore, as I did with my old fluid...


Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, this time more intelligently.
#1164871 03/05/05 11:52 PM
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Originally posted by stadtsoldat:
I hate to make another "what should I do?" reply, but my situation is a little unique.

I have a grinding going into first gear if not at a complete stop. Seems some other people on the board have the same problem, but it isn't certain if this is normal due to the high stress of that shift or if the first gear synchro is shot. Personally I suspect the synchro, because it only started recently and I have always put it into first before stopping, out of habit.

So demonsvt suggests ATF 3 or 4, because it bites and already has FM in it. But so does Redline MTL, with the added benefit of being good for your gears. So, if the reason for using ATF is it "bites" with its FM, MTL will work fine? And if ATF, 3 or 4? Does it matter?

I just want to delay whatever problem I may have, because finances at the moment aren't going to let me fix it now. And if first gear grind is normal (when not at a stop), I want whatever is best for the tranny. So what should I go with? And should I add friction modifier?




Anyone?


1999 SVT, Tropic Green No mods yet www.cardomain.com/id/stadtsoldat
#1164872 03/06/05 02:48 AM
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http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=860329&Forum=All_Forums&Words=150&Match=Username&Searchpage=1&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=859075&Search=true#Post860329

Study all this and then make up your own mind. There is a long post about all the different fluids that many of us have tried on the bobistheoilguy forum.


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited
#1164873 03/06/05 06:37 AM
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Probably use the MTL. It worked pretty good for me on both counts. I had some rough engagement in 3rd gear, not a grind but not as smooth either. That was under the ATF. Then I went to redline and it was gone and has been gone for a two years.

Just a quick note:
That Royal Purple MaxGear is working great!
It has completely quieted down the mechanical noise from the Torsen LSD in hard sharp turns from a stop, and it seems to have hardly affected the shifting. There have been some cold mornings here and it has still shifted fine with no roughness. IT seems maybe a fraction more resistive about shifting on those cold mornings when I first start up to leave, but once up to operating temperature it shifts great and is much quieter to boot.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
#1164874 03/10/05 01:48 PM
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Update:

We have had a few pretty cold mornings here, below 40 degrees and I noticed that it was harder to get into gear. I started to drive off and it gave a notchy, almost grind going into second gear. After about a block or two of driving the feeling is gone and of course once the car is up to operating temperature it is gone.

So, cold climates beware, don't use MaxGear unless you warm up the car first, or maybe if you cut it with a little bit of friction modifier.
Right now I'll live with it till summer unless it gets colder here. Then in the fall I can change it back out for some new fluid.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
#1164875 03/30/05 04:34 PM
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Just to add some more feedback to this very helpful thread, I changed to ATF +3 from Redline MTL about 10 days ago and it is noticeably easier to get into gear from a stop. Now, let me qualify this by saying that my MTX is surely nearing a rebuild. It can be extremely difficult to get into gear, moreso in cold weather. Often I have to rock the car by putting it in a higher gear and slowly letting the clutch out in order to find first or reverse.

So for an MTX 75 that has problems, ATF +3 is better than Redline MTL; though that was probably already evident.


-- 1999 SVT #220 -- In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
#1164876 03/30/05 04:46 PM
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When I was running the MTL my trans too was notchy at first when still cold shifting. When the trans got warm it was better. When I swapped motors I put some atf+3 in and it was much better shifting and way smoother. My trans has about 60K on it and it had atf+3 in it when i bought it. My Eo trans with 98K worked fine from what I know and also had atf+3. My guess is if you know how to actually drive stick and use the clutch your tranny might have a better chance at survival even if using atf+3. (I'm not pointing any fingers saying anyone here can't drive stick.)


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#1164877 03/30/05 05:46 PM
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Originally posted by Thinkmoto:
My guess is if you know how to actually drive stick and use the clutch your tranny might have a better chance at survival even if using atf+3. (I'm not pointing any fingers saying anyone here can't drive stick.)




LOL! With all the known problems in these transmissions you claim it is lack of driver skill? Puh-lease , like countless rubes across the nation driving manual tranny Contiques are only having problems because they can't figure out what the third pedal is for.

EDIT: Maybe if people could figure out how to make right turns there wouldn't be so many bearing failures.

Last edited by bigMoneyRacing; 03/30/05 05:53 PM.

-- 1999 SVT #220 -- In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
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