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Here's a thread with pix!! Thanks to our friend lithium398: <S> TB cleaning
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Well, sort of.
That is about cleaning the EGR passages behind the throttle body and then cleaning the throttle body while it was off. My description was on how to clean the throttle body without taking it off.
Take it off if you feel you must, but you will not get it significantly cleaner. I've done it both ways.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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on perhaps an unrelated note....my svt seems a little sluggish these days ( I have not done the TH fix). I was at a stop light today and noticed how effortlessly minivans and cars of the like would pull ahead of me. The car seems to rev a lot, but not much else. the old proverbial bark but no bite I guess
. Any ideas...Car has about 45k on it and was purchased with around 30k. The car is a certified preowned. All I have done is ad A k&N Air filter and routine oil changes. I'm assuming it has the original plugs and wires.
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Here's a thread with pix!! Thanks to our friend lithium398: <S>
TB cleaning
'
any pictures on how to fix the throttle hang??
#0009
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Plugs are probably still good. I changed mine at multiples of 60,000 and the old one always looked good. The wires were not replaced until 150,000 miles and they still seemed fine. I do suspect that besides cleaning the throttle body that you would benefit from cleaning the intake manifold. There is a FAQ for how to do it on the car. http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=43
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Here's a thread with pix!! Thanks to our friend lithium398: <S>
TB cleaning
'
any pictures on how to fix the throttle hang??
It is in the FAQ section.
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=34
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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ok seriously guys, don't laugh at me, I dont get it Quote:
Turns out that "they all really do, do that." Sucks, but I concluded it is built into the smog calibration in the ECU as Furd always maintained . It's implemented
by the air bypass valve position which is controlled by the ECU. What this valve does is bleed air from the rubber intake connector tube prior to the throttle body directly into the manifold. This effectively controls RPM under various conditions.
The "throttle hang" fix consists of installing a restrictor plate in the form of a 1/2" COPPER pipe cap inserted INSIDE the 3/4" rubber hose that supplies air to the bypass air valve. The cap is inserted at the manifold end of the hose and fits either the original or Mr. Moose hose. It also has a black tank, about the size of a fruit
juice can, right under the throttle/CC cables. This plug has a hole drilled in it to provide sufficient air for idle RPM control but insufficient to maintain a RPM of in excess of 3K. The throttle drop is still slower than I would like but the "hang" is gone and that's a biggie.
For the SVT, or a car equipped with the SVT intake, the optimum hole size in the plug seems to be 3/16" or 7/32". For the stock intake, the best size seems to
be 15/64". There are reports that the plug causes newer SVT's (E1) to lose power in mid-range RPM's, perhaps due to the newer IAC valves? The addition of the throttle hange restrictor plug has been reported to also fix the
Mr. Moose (see related section on this page) issue without using the Ford Moose "bagpipe tube/hoses."
I removed the tank also but don't think this is necessary. I just pushed the plug into the 3/4" hose at the manifold end. For removal, a pair of pliers works well.
The first time I started it, the engine "hunted" before stabilizing at 750RPM idle. Did this for when the lights were on and the AC. The ECU is learning the new
position of the valve for maintaining the programmed RPM, which is normal. After two or three starts, it acts normal.
I would suggest getting several plugs-they're cheap-and trying different size holes. It needs to be just large enough to maintain cold or warm idle RPM's under worst case accessory loading. I assume this is cold day, cold start with the air on in defrost mode. Installing the plug is about a 3 min job once the hose is free and easily removable. Be sure it isn't cocked. Some WD-40 helps. It needs to be in far enough so that the hose fits on the nipple as per original. It will be too large to get into the mainfold.
I'm sooo lost, any summary of that would be appreciated 
#0009
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Read thru Ray McNary's explanation (with pictures) that I linked to above. That may help.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Originally posted by Big Jim:
Read thru Ray McNary's explanation (with pictures) that I linked to above. That may help.
thats what it was!! their too many dimension, am I suppose to put a tiny ring somehere, I dont get it, I seriously dont 
#0009
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OK, lets try this. The idle air control valve is used to control the idle speed. It does so by controlling some air around the throttle plate. On some earlier systems this was done by controlling the throttle plate, but those mechanism were awkward and inneffecient.
On your car, the air coming into the idle air control valve comes thru a large hose on the side of the idle air control. The throttle hang cure restricts the air that can enter the idle air control valve. A copper plug is used. A hole is drilled in the copper plug restrictor plate as a means of limiting how much air can enter during high demand but still provide enough for normal ilde speed control.
Did that help or did it just muddy the water?
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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