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Well I just got done replacing all the suspension.motor/trans,and brakes from my salvage car to a EO CSVT. At first start up everything was OK. Shortly there after the ABS light came on. The rear ABS sensors are new ones I had purchased about a year ago. The front sensors are the stockers that came with the car. I had this same problem with the salvage car too!! The rear knuckles are from a 01 cougar...would they have a different ring on them for the abs sensors to read? from what I can see they are exactly the same as the SVT's. The master cylinder did drain down some,but I don't think it drained dry this time. Kinda stumped now and need some direction.
Also the clutch and brakes work fine. I bled the system out 3 times to make sure all the old fluid was out of the system. Any and all help is appreciated
06 GMC Sierra 2500HD Dmax/ally
06 Pontiac G6 GT
05 CRF250R
FOR SALE 06 KX65 with riding gear $2700 obo
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Joined: Sep 2003
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You need to get the code.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2005
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Originally posted by HITMANinMI:
You need to get the code.
Where does one get the ABS codes from? AutoZone told me their scanner would not give me codes for the ABS. My light comes on when I hit about 58mph and stays on until I shut the car off and restart.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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You would have to find someone with a scanner that can monitor all four wheel speeds (NGS), depending on what your code actualy is.
'99 Silver svt
For sale
19" Axis Neo wheels
3.0 parts, pre-98 trunk,
Check classifieds
bp.powell@comcast.net
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Joined: Aug 2001
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i think you'd have to get ford to check the abs codes with the proper scanner. they dont show up with the obd2 scanners, at least mine didnt.
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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Joined: Aug 2002
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I agree. Take it to Ford for them to pull the codes. Depending on what it is, it could get real expensive very quickly.
Does the ABS kick in? Could be a couple of things. The easiest is the sensors are bad. Or the pump/motor is out (mine did and it is a long way to the ABS motor). Worst case is the computer is shot. This is a VERY expensive option. FYI you can get a pump/motor assembly from a salvage yard for about $165.
Good luck!!
Greg
Greg
1998 E0 T-Red
#613
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About 2 weeks ago, on my way to work, a deer ran into me. I instanly climbed on the brakes, it did not lock up any wheels. Never had a car with ABS before, but one thing I noticed was that the brake pedal seemed to have dropped a bit from under the pressure I had exerted on to it. I figured the ABS took something over or away from my input. Was only doing maybe 35-40mph. The light does not come on if I do not excede 58-60 mph. Although rare, I have been up to 65 and back off it to below 58mph W/O the light coming on.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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The ABS will "pump" your brakes for you. The really simple explanation is: The wheel sensors relay back to the abs computer, and computes that a wheel has stopped moving. It will activate the pump which opens and closes the brakes pretty darn fast. All 4 wheels are affected, since they are all controlled by a single pump in our cars. You will hear a noise and feel the pulsing on the peddle.
The abs pump will remain active until your car has stopped or you let off the brake. My pump assembly had a valve inside the unit freeze, which locked the right front.
I would have Ford run the codes, to be sure what is the problem. Midas (or a brake shop) may have the computer to do it as well.
Greg
Greg
1998 E0 T-Red
#613
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Originally posted by c150L:
About 2 weeks ago, on my way to work, a deer ran into me. I instanly climbed on the brakes, it did not lock up any wheels. Never had a car with ABS before, but one thing I noticed was that the brake pedal seemed to have dropped a bit from under the pressure I had exerted on to it. I figured the ABS took something over or away from my input. Was only doing maybe 35-40mph. The light does not come on if I do not excede 58-60 mph. Although rare, I have been up to 65 and back off it to below 58mph W/O the light coming on.
If the light comming on seems to be speed related, inspect the wheel sensors and tone rings. Clean the sensors (they are magnets) with a little brush and get rid of any iron particles that may be sticking to them. When you inspect the tone rigns, look for a damaged tooth or even for a cracked tone ring.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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It does seem to me that when I was doing the left front strut spring, I may have felt what appeared to be a tooth missing where the speed sensor reads the axle rotation. If so, would that missing tooth cause such? Why not until it hits 58mph? I thought the manual stated something about checking system again around 25 or something.
Thanks for the info. I will try and get under there and check teeth.
Dale
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