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#1035519 08/26/04 09:26 PM
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pdqford Offline OP
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Found a-n-o-t-h-e-r problem with this non-running '95 Contour SE, 2.5L w/atx.

Battery doesn't seem to hold its charge, so I ran a current drain test. With the courtesy lamp fuse pulled there is a 151 milliAmp current drain. (Shop manual says it should have no more than .05 amp - max!)

I started at the main fuse box (under the dash) and pulled each fuse one at a time and checked the current drain. No change! Then I proceeded to check the relays in the main fuse box. Bingo! When I remove the Courtesy Lamp Relay, (which was warm to the touch), the current drain drops to 3.6 milliAmps!

Testing this relay with a DVOM, it shows 76 ohms on the coil side and open on the switch side, which seems good to me.

After getting crosseyed trying to follow the wiring diagram, it looks like this relay is pulled in by the Central Timer Module, and at that point it provides the ground for the various courtesy lamps.

Since the CTM plugs into the back of the Main Fuse Panel, and the Courtesy Lamp Relay plugs into the top of the Main Fuse Panel, it doesn't seem that a stray hot wire could be energizing the relay.

(And I'm assuming the coil side of the relay is causing the current drain, as (V/R=I) 11.8 V/76 ohm = ~155 milliAmps, which is pretty close to what I was reading. Any thoughts on this?)

My questions are:

Does the Courtesy Lamp Relay appear to be good?
(Don't wanna change parts if nothing is wrong with 'em.)

Is there a way to determine if the CTM is functioning properly?
(Maybe the CTM is toast and is holding the relay in all the time.)

Is there something that I'm completely overlooking?






#1035520 08/26/04 10:05 PM
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Welcome to CEG!

Pull the bulb in the trunk out and re-check.


"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
#1035521 08/26/04 10:45 PM
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Originally posted by Rogerm60:
Welcome to CEG!

Pull the bulb in the trunk out and re-check.





Very Good point!!!

Somthing similar happened to me.


It seems that, the trunk light switch that is conncected to the striker (where the trunk lock actuator locks onto) likes to break off with repeated opening and closing of the trunk.


Should be s simple fix...or you could just remove the trunk light.


Lupe


3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
#1035522 08/27/04 12:26 AM
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Courtesy lamp relay will draw current when any door jam switch is in uncompressed(i.e. door open) state, even if Fuse 23 (courtesy lamps) pulled, since its coil receives feed from main 60 amp fuse.

Perhaps driver's door was open during your battery current check.


98 Mystique LS v6 atx 163,000km 97 Contour LX v6 atx 163,000km
#1035523 08/27/04 12:36 AM
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pdqford Offline OP
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Remember now guys, I was measuring the current drain while the Courtesy Lamp fuse was pulled. That (at least according to my wiring diagram) shuts down the interior lights, the trunk, glove box, and underhood lights. That way I was able to work with the door open (how else ya gonna pull the fuses) and the hood up (to read the drain at the battery).

Now maybe the fact that the door was open, (even though the fuse was pulled), that may have told the CTM that the lights should be turned on, so the CTM pulled the Courtesy Lamp Relay in.

So tomorrow, with the Courtesy Lamp fuse pulled and the CL relay installed, I'll measure the current drain with the door opened, and with the door closed. (And for good measure, I do it with the trunk light installed, and with it disconnected.) Thanks for the ideas. . . . .

So my questions still are:

Does the Courtesy Lamp Relay appear to be good? Should the relay get warm just holding the coil in, even though it's not providing any current for the Courtesy Lamps? (Don't wanna change parts if nothing is wrong with 'em.)

Is there a way to determine if the CTM is functioning properly? (Maybe the CTM is toast and is holding the relay in all the time.)


#1035524 08/27/04 12:48 AM
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pdqford Offline OP
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Originally posted by horseydug:
Courtesy lamp relay will draw current when any door jam switch is in uncompressed(i.e. door open) state, even if Fuse 23 (courtesy lamps) pulled, since its coil receives feed from main 60 amp fuse.

Perhaps driver's door was open during your battery current check.



Thank You, horseydug. I think its starting to make sense to me now. So tomorrow I'll re-check the draw and be sure the doors are closed.

Is 140-150 milliAmps a reasonable draw for the relay's coil?

#1035525 08/27/04 12:53 AM
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Yes, yes. Coil has resistance therefore produces heat by-product, contact has theoretically no resistance therefore no heat by-product.

Yes (doubtful). Check my post here CTM self-test .


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#1035526 08/27/04 02:43 AM
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I don't know if these cars have one, but I assume they do: a ground strap/wire between the engine/alternator to the chassis.

Check the ground resistance between the engine/alternator to the chassis. It should be close to zero. If not, connect a wire or cable (even a jumper cable will work) between the alternator's ground (housing?) and the chassis.

If your amps draw decreases, there's a problem with the ground between the alternator and the chassis. In most cars (I don't know about these--I haven't studied the diagrams), the negative post of the battery is connected to the chassis; therefore, if the connection between the alternator and the chassis is bad, the alternator will not be able to keep the battery fully charged. As the engine and the rest of the car draw on the battery for power and the alternator is unable to keep up, the battery eventually gets drained.

#1035527 08/27/04 04:09 PM
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pdqford Offline OP
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Originally posted by DDV:
I don't know if these cars have one, but I assume they do: a ground strap/wire between the engine/alternator to the chassis.




There is a ground strap that runs between the upper passenger side motor mount bracket and the firewall. Although this ground looked good, I have removed it, sandpapered the contact surfaces, and re-attached it.

#1035528 08/27/04 04:53 PM
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Originally posted by pdqford:
Thank You, horseydug. I think its starting to make sense to me now. So tomorrow I'll re-check the draw and be sure the doors are closed.





This is getting stranger by the day: This morning I went out and measured the current drain. With the Courtesy Lamp relay pulled, the Courtesy Lamp fuse pulled, the Luggage Compartment Lamp pulled, and all doors closed, it measured 3.6 milliAmps. Kewl!

Open the door and the milliAmps jumps up to 16.4 milliAmps (Don't know what that indicates since the Courtesy Lamp fuse was pulled, but the electronics musta initiated something.)

With it reading 16.4 milliAmps, I closed the door, and the current drain drops immediately to 11.7 milliAmps. (I'm assuming the CTM is doing something.) Then about 30 seconds later, the current drain drops to 3.6 milliAmps. (Again, I'm assuming the CTM finished whatever it was doing.)

Then I installed the Luggage Compartment Lamp and repeat the process, and get the exact same readings. So far, so good!

Now comes the kicker - I install the Courtesy Lamp Relay, crawl out from under the dash and check the DVOM at the battery. Its now 0.0 milliAmps! Close the door = 0.0 milliAmps! Open the door = 0.0 milliAmps! Yesterday it was reading 155 milliAmps. Must be I 'fixed' the sumpin!

So I hook the battery cables back up, ground the STI, and try and pull the PCM codes. I can hear the solenoids and engine fan doing their dance during KOEO, but the check engine light doesn't flash, not even the '111' pass code. I've pulled the PCM and done the Pin-point tests to check out the wiring harnes for VREF, STO, STI, etc. All meets the pin-point test specs. (At this point the shop manual calls for a new PCM, but I've been told someone has already put another one in.)

So I say, what the heck - I unground the STI, turn the key to on (CEL lights!), crank and crank, (CEL goes out, meaning it see a PIP signal!), and it fires a few cylinders, but not enough to override the starter. So I disconnect the MAF, crank and crank some more, and it starts!!! This is first time I've heard this engine run! (Its been flatbedded to two different Independant repair shops and a highly regarded Ford dealership in the area, before it was flatbedded to my place for one last attempt to save it from the crusher. )

It doesn't sound pretty in there - reminds me of an old Ford diesel tractor when it idles - maybe I should start another thread for that problem.

Then, just for S&Gs, I shut it down (the noise was deafining), ground the STI, and run KOEO again. Solenoids and fans do their thing, and the CEL starts flashing!
I get the 111's folowed by 157, which is a MAF code. Why is KOEO working now! Does the engine have to be at operating temp for the PCM to code the KOEO?

Sounds like I fixed the electrical problems Now on to the mechanical noises!


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