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I dont check the zetec board much more, but I must say make sure you get the head checked and the block if you can afford it. Mine warped the head and block, i had the head resurfaced assuming the block was ok. months went on as I leaked oil and topped her off, till one night I fell behind and this was my fate. Make sure you keep 4.5 qts in there.. now time for the old ugly pics. btw when you starve you engine of oil and it spins a bearing, our motors become interference motors very quickly, heres what my exhaust valves and my spark plug did to a piston. and it destory my head I had $500 in from replacing the headgasket only 3 months before  
Derek Johnson
88 TurboTBird 32psi, t3/t4 bb 50trim, megasquirt, 3 bar map, 50lb inj, roller cam w adj. gear, header, 3" downpipe and full exhaust, gutted intake manifolds, spec stg 3
95SE 3L gone
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Joined: Oct 2003
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Whoa! Thanks for those pics, 2.3turbochicken.
It looks like that one pic shows indentations where the valves hit the pistons. It's good to finally have an answer to the long-standing question about whether zetecs are interference engines.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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Originally posted by caltour:
Whoa! Thanks for those pics, 2.3turbochicken.
It looks like that one pic shows indentations where the valves hit the pistons. It's good to finally have an answer to the long-standing question about whether zetecs are interference engines.
please read my post with more detail I stated that when I spun a bearing it made my motor interfere. my piston would move ~1/3-1/2" after spiinning the bearing this reducing the stock clearances
Derek Johnson
88 TurboTBird 32psi, t3/t4 bb 50trim, megasquirt, 3 bar map, 50lb inj, roller cam w adj. gear, header, 3" downpipe and full exhaust, gutted intake manifolds, spec stg 3
95SE 3L gone
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Joined: Oct 2003
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OK, thanks, I didn't pick up on that. What exactly is "spinning a bearing" anyway? How is it different from a regular old worn out bearing (i.e. the bearing surface is worn beyond specs due to lots of use), or a bearing that is fractured and busted into pieces? I've seen both of those.
BTW, we haven't heard from zetecninja for awhile.
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Joined: May 2004
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
Joined: May 2004
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spinning a baring is exactly that, the bearing "spins"  i am really bad at describing things...maybe somone else is beter...
Regards, Cole.
Relegating to troll status sometime this week.
New Whip: 1990 Lexus ES250.
Old Hotness: 1995 GL MTX Zetec *IN TRIAGE*
"I had a little friend once, but it dont move no more...  "
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I've got everything back together...just needs to be tightened.
However, I did have an issue when I tried to start the car. At first it seems it didn't want to crank over but after a couple tries I got it to start...but it felt like my timing was off. Either that or my timing belt is really loose, which it did feel like when I was checkin it out. How do I get it tighter? the belt tensioner seems to be doing its job however on the other side of the belt its really loose and feels like it can just slide off so easy on that side. I think its not turning the cam pulleys good and thats my problem.
Any advice? I always could just not deal with it and get my timing set but wouldn't that cost a good amount of $$$?
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How loose is your timing belt? Haynes doesn't give any specs re: how much slack there is supposed to be. It just says the tensioner spring is supposed to maintain the proper tension. In my car, the timing belt has almost no slack on the tensioner side, and about 3/16" of slack on the other side.
What procedure did you go through to set the timing? Did you follow the procedure in the manual? If you slid the belt off the cam gears when you removed the head, and then just slid the timing belt back on the cam gears when you reinstalled the head, you could easily have messed up the timing. If a cam gear is even one tooth off its proper position, the car will barely run. Did you at least mark the belt and cam gears with chalk or paint to help you put the belt back in the same place (in relation to the cam gears)?
How did it run when you started it? Did it idle, but fail to accelerate? That might help us figure out what's wrong.
A shop would charge probably $200 or more to set the timing, because they have to take off the valve cover, top timing belt cover, and a bunch of other stuff.
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Originally posted by caltour:
Did you at least mark the belt and cam gears with chalk or paint to help you put the belt back in the same place (in relation to the cam gears)?
this is exactly what I did taking advice from my uncle (the mechanic). Everything looked lined up to me but maybe not.
The timing belt feels plenty tight on the tensioner side but really loose on the other side.
I think I will probably go back and just set the crank pulley at TDC and use a straight tool to alighn the cams...I would've did this in the very beginning if I could turn the stupid crank pulley. 
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Originally posted by ZetecNinja:
I think I will probably go back and just set the crank pulley at TDC and use a straight tool to alighn the cams...I would've did this in the very beginning if I could turn the stupid crank pulley.
That'll save you a lot of time. I tried to leave the v.cover on and just slip the belt off and turn the 2 sprockets a tooth or two; and did that for a couple days.
So I took it to a shop and for liability reasons they wouldn't do it. Fed up I took the V.Cover off and aligned my gears and Presto, 20 minutes it took.
1992 Ford Escort LX-E
-Tracer LTS spoiler
-GT Grille
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I went out there today...it appears as though my cam gears are aligned and moving together. However the belt is not in the same spot as it was before I started the car...I'm not sure what would make the belt jump like that but as I said before its really loose on one side and you could almost slip it off. I think my belt seems to be the issue...and nothing more I hope.
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