Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Zetec Performance Head removing progress, pics...and come help me !

Alright me and my friend started removing the head, not knowing what we were doing but removing anything that we thought was connected to the head...pretty easy right?

well I took some pics of all that we did for the day, about an hour to 2 hours work. And I have some questions...

first one...what do I do about the timing belt and cam gears? does the belt just need to be removed and cam gears stay in place? I'm assuming thats the case but when putting it back on, I don't know if anything is gonna be screwed up or off or whatever.


ok moving on, while taking off the exhaust manifold we encountered this problem. Some of the nuts would come off but the bolt would be stuck in place. Whats the deal here? A couple of the nuts & bolts would come out all the way but alot of them would not. Also if you can see the snake looking hose on the right side, its blocking one of the bolts holding in the exhaust manifold, that thing has little give in it and I can't get to the bolt with it in the way, what to do?


Ok now to the 3rd picture, it looks like I need some type of allen-wrench like tool to remove those two bolts in the middle...anybody know what size those are? I didn't have anything before to remove them. Also it appears that there are bolts underneath the cams, do those need to be removed? If so they look like a [censored] to reach.


Ok on this one when I removed the fuel rail and injectors...we had a problem with the bottom hose and plastic piece (not the yellow one) getting in the way so we tried to get it at an angle and some black plastic piece flew off (which is still MIA)...anyway now the plastic part is kinda wobbley. Should it be that way til the injectors and valve cover go back on or does it need to be glued in place?


Alright here I believe we have everything taken off to separate the intake manifold from the head except like 3 allen wrench like bolts (I have no clue what they're called)...is there anything else holding it down? And I can leave the throttle body attached to the intake manifold correct?


Here is just a wider picture of the bolts in question.

And here is an overall shot of our progress for the day, it should be minus the intake manifold and exhaust manifold but stupid bolts and tools we didn't have held us up.


And thats it I know this was a long post but just remember I'm a newb without a manual at the current moment and any help is good help. So please don't skip the post because of its length, I could really use the info.

yes you can leave the TB on the intake manifold im pretty sure, just disconnect everything. i cant tel form the pic, did you remove the fuel rail yet? i think you have to do that (again, i have never done a HG on a four cyilder car so i really am of very little use at this particular time).
as for those bolts under the cams...you have to remove them and you have to remove the cams to get to them. its the only way. but...oh dear god, what have you done to those cams??? they are so dirty!!


here see if this helps:


Fig. 1: Upper engine mount and accessory mounting brackets-2.0L engine



Fig. 2: Cylinder head bolt removal sequence-2.0L engine.

^ I certainly hope that you removed those bolts in that sequence or you may have problems putting them back in^


Fig. 3: Once the camshafts are removed, the cylinder head bolts are accessible.


Fig. 4: Loosen the head bolts in sequence, using the appropriate tools. The head bolts on the 2.0L engine require a T55 Torx bit to un-bolt.


Fig. 5: Lift the cylinder head off the engine block.

and theres the head gasket, or whast left of it.


Fig. 6: Remove the head bolts with a magnet once the head is placed on a suitable worksurface


you want pics of the rebuilding of the head (which you can probably dop while your in there, new t-stat and timingbelt tensioner!!!!!!) you want to do at least a partial rebuild (new TStat and TB tensioner) this is all providing that these things havent been replaced recently....


Fig. 7: The thermostat housing is held by three retaining bolts.



Fig. 9: Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley from the head



i cant stress enough that you replace the tensioner and the timing belt while your in there. do the Water pump to. its a while your in there thing. and the WP may have gotten fudged while trying to pump oil through the cooling system anyway.


Now is also a PREFECT time to remove that god awful Timing Belt cover. i would put the bottom one back on, but the middle one (shown here), and the top one can go away.

Fig. 10: The front cover is held by four retaining bolts, remove the bolts and...


... remove the cover from the cylinder head, the head will now lay flat.


using a suitable tool, remove the remains of the head gasket from both the block and head surfaces.




wipe the head and the block down with some cleaner (i woudl probably use TB cleaner, since it wont/shouldnt harm the metal, but consult a true professonal (i.e. terry haines) before doing so)



this will provide a good sealing surface for the new gasket.


Fig. 16: Place the new head gasket onto the engine block, aligning the holes in the gasket with ...


Fig. 17: ... the dowels in the block.




Fig. 19: The cylinder head bolts must be tighten in sequence, to the proper torque using a torque wrench

IMPORTANT!!!! The cylinder head bolts are a torque-to-yield design and cannot be reused. If the cylinder head bolts are reused, engine damage may occur.


here is the complete procedure...in steps:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain the engine coolant from the radiator and the cylinder block drain plugs.

3. Remove the intake manifold.

4. Remove the exhaust manifold.

5. Remove the camshafts and valve tappets.

6. Support the engine with a wood block between the crankshaft pulley and the front sub-frame.

7. Remove the engine support device (the big black funny looking bar that wraps around the rightside of the motor, its a brace/mount for the motor) for the timing belt cover removal.

8. Remove the right-hand engine lifting eye retaining bolt and the lifting eye.

9. Remove the support bracket from the power steering pump mounting bracket and cylinder head.

10. Remove the timing belt covers.

11. Remove the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley.

12. Remove the thermostat housing from the rear of the cylinder head.

13. Remove the ignition coil and bracket from the cylinder head.

15. Remove the spark plugs if not already removed.

16. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse of the installation sequence.

17. Remove the cylinder head and gasket from the engine.

RE INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block gasket surfaces and check for flatness. Refer to the Engine Reconditioning Section for procedures.

2. Install a new cylinder head gasket onto the cylinder block. Be sure the head gasket is properly positioned on the dowels.


WARNING Use care when positioning the cylinder head to prevent damage to the head gasket or dowels.



3. Place a light coating of engine oil onto the threads of the new cylinder head bolts and install.

4. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence and in the following steps:

5. Tighten all bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm)

6. Tighten all bolts to 30-37 ft. lbs. (40-50 Nm)

7. Rotate all bolts 90-120 degrees.

8. Reinstall the ignition coil bracket and the ignition coil.

9. Reinstall the water thermostat housing.

10. Reinstall the timing belt covers.

11. Reinstall the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley and retaining bolt onto the front of the cylinder head.

12. Reinstall the support bracket to the power steering pump mounting bracket and the cylinder head.

13. Tighten the support bracket to 29-41 ft. lbs. (39-55 Nm).

14. Reinstall the right engine lifting eye to the cylinder head and the alternator mounting bracket. Tighten the retaining bolts to 30-41 ft. lbs. (41-55, Nm).

15. If removed, install the left-hand engine lifting eye to the cylinder head and tighten to 10-13 ft. lbs. (14-18 Nm).

16. Install the engine support device to the engine lifting eyes and support the engine.

17. Remove the wood block from between the sub-frame and the crankshaft pulley.

18. Reinstall the valve tappets and camshaft into their original locations.

19. Reinstall the exhaust manifold.

20. Reinstall the intake manifold.

21. Reinstall the spark plugs.


22. Drain the engine oil and remove the engine oil filter.

WARNING

Operating the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil will result in severe engine damage.


DUHHH!

23. Reinstall the drain plug and tighten to 15-21 ft. lbs. (21-28 Nm).

24. Reinstall a new engine oil filter and fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of oil.

25. Fill the engine cooling system.

26. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

27. Run the engine and check for oil and coolant leaks. Check for proper engine operation.




there, i hope this helps, it took me like an hour to make!!! lol. i dont mind though, helping a fellow CEG'er makes it all worthwhile...

MAKE THIS A STICKY PLZ!!!


oh and dont forget what i said about cleaning the tops of your cylinders and the valves in the head...they need to be cleaned...gasoline is probably the safest thing to use, since they get gas on them anyway lol.

BTW, link is here: Headgasket How to!!

Well there ya go ninja!

That bolt size you circled is a t-45 (same as brakes) but it doesn't seem like you need to touch those
Anyways, Haynes manual recommends leaving the Intake and Exhaust manifold on for simplicity, but it makes head removal heavier and bulkier, so you'd need a lift a a helper.

TIP: Label EVERYTHING

Edit:How-to remove cruise


1)Disconnect actualtor cable from throttle linkage on the TB, by releasing the inner cable end attachment from the segment and unclipping the outer cable from the bracket
2)Unscrew the actuator mounting bolt, then slide the actuator mounting bolt, then slide the actuator out of the mounting pin holes
3)Disconnect the multi-plug and remove assembly.
4)Press actuacting cable cap locking arm, remove cap by turning counterclockwise(image)
5)Raise cable retaining lug no more than .5 mm, and push cable end out of the slot in the pulley
6)When Installed, make sure cable end, locks into the slot in the pulley
7)To locate cable cap onto actuator pulley, keep cable taut and in the pulley groove, and pull the throttle linkage end of the cable to draw the cable cap onto the pulley
8)To install cable cap, keep cable taut and the pulley still, then install the cable cap tabs into the actuator slots; then turn the cap clockwise till locking arm locates on the locking stop

holy crap stryker, nice! good read.
go ninja go!

also, on a side note, i have put a light coating of used motor oil on every gasket i have ever replaced. if its old oil it will burn, dont use too much, but i find it helps to give it a good seal until the engineheats it up enough to seal it up good. just an afterthought.

wow, ok I think that pretty much answers all my questions. I think I just have 2 more...

is removing the cam gears and cams straight forward or do I need any special tools? I don't want my timing to be all screwed up. And the timing belt, can I just slide it off or what?

And my last one...how do I get those damn bolts off my exhaust manifold where only the nut came off? thats damn annoying...

ok I replaced my timing belt not too long ago because it had teeth missing...and as far as replacing bolts, I have like a $20 budget right now honestly so I can't really do anything recommended...only whats extremely necessary. No joke but I am dead broke.

edit: oh yea where are u findin this info? it might be able to answer some of my other questions as well.

all info is from autozone.com

youhave to replace those bolts. they are useless. borrow some money! how much ya need man? find out how much they are and i can probably help..at least some, but really im not in a much better postition than you are lol.

ok more progress today, no pics because it looks basically the same.

All thats needed to be done is...remove 2 bolts from intake manifold, remove cams, cam gears, and timing belt, then remove head bolts...we're almost done as far as taking it off goes.

I'm a little scared about removing the timing belt and cams/cam gears still...will I have to take it to a shop to have the timing corrected?

edit: actually nevermind, i think all the info i need is on that auto zone site.