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#1015017 07/28/04 12:28 PM
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ok got a question about this before i go make a big mistake

in the picture here(stolen from cvkillacontour98's website) are two y-pipes


that center piece in the top y-pipe, could i just grind that away and have it come out looking similar to the bottom y-pipe, if not i gotta find a welder around here


98.5 Black SE ATX S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
#1015018 07/28/04 12:55 PM
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It's a little more involved than just griding away the center piece. That center 'bar' is the walls of two pipes crushed together. You need to cut out the crushed sections & weld the two halves together to get rid of that restriction.

Good luck, & ENJOY the freed up ponies.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
#1015019 07/28/04 12:58 PM
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ok then, gonna have to locate me a welder and learn to weld then, dont have the money to pay a shop to do it, and i hope to enjoy the extra ponies soon, i have heard a lots of people say that there was a big difference after optimizing the pipe, hope to feel it soon


98.5 Black SE ATX S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
#1015020 07/28/04 01:03 PM
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The difference isn't huge. You likely won't feel it seat-of-the-pants, but it will drop the 1/4 mile times a bit.

As for cost, once you remove the Y-pipe, a muffler shop should be willing to mod that for you for well under $100. Definately don't pay more than that.

Edit: That's not much more than the cost to rent a welder.

Last edited by TourDeForce; 07/28/04 01:06 PM.

Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
#1015021 07/28/04 09:13 PM
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:

As for cost, once you remove the Y-pipe, a muffler shop should be willing to mod that for you for well under $100. Definately don't pay more than that.




I had to go to a race shop in the area, no muffler shops in my area would touch it.


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#1015022 07/29/04 03:22 AM
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Originally posted by SVT24:
Originally posted by TourDeForce:

As for cost, once you remove the Y-pipe, a muffler shop should be willing to mod that for you for well under $100. Definately don't pay more than that.




I had to go to a race shop in the area, no muffler shops in my area would touch it.




If you bring your car in, they see the cat after the Y pipe & won't work on it because of Federal emissions laws which are pretty stern about touching anything in front of the cat. Just remove the Y & bring it in all by itself and they'll be happy to do the work.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
#1015023 07/29/04 04:02 AM
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Without a chip I'd say 2-4 HP & 5-6 TQ

With a chip I've seen gains of 6-8 HP and 10-12 TQ. (chip's better spark curve maximizes airflow - well a properly tuned one!)

Those figures are all the wheels and pretty much through the entire powerband.

The stock Y-pipe is the biggest restriction in the exhaust.

Followed by the stock resonator on the SVT exhaust or the entire exhaust on a non-SVT.

"Non-clogged" Pre-cats would be next.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#1015024 07/29/04 04:07 AM
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
"Non-clogged" Pre-cats would be next.



Seems like a stupid question but what the hell. The gutting of the pre-cat's is what people have mentioned something about getting performance numbers similar to headers, right? Even if that is the case I don't like the sound the exhaust makes after you do that. If you optimize the y-pipe, do you get a sound differance?


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#1015025 07/29/04 04:14 AM
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An optimized Y-pipe will raise the volume a bit. No raise in drone or rasp.

Gutted pre-cats are better then non gutted but nothing like headers.

There are only like two "real" back to back dynos. The most noticeable change was Tom's 3L from gutted to headers.

I don't recall the numbers off hand but it was a significant jump throughout the entire powerband. Some spots were double digit gains.
That was on a well built 3L mind you.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.

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