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For a while now I have been having a problem with the idle. Whether in park or in drive the idle will jump 50 to 100 rpm's over and over. So, yesterday I pulled out the ole trusty Haynes manual and checked some components and their specs. I cleaned the maf, checked the idle increase solenoid and it's diode for proper operation, that checked out. This is where I got confused, I then checked the IAC valve, the manual says to connect 12 volt power source, + to the green/yellow and - to the black yellow and you should hear a distinct click noise, I did hear that noise. Then it says that if you don't hear that noise to check the resistance across the two terminal. The resistance was 17.6 ohms, but to be within specs the manual says it should be 6 to 14 ohms. Does this mean that even though the valve clicked, that it's faulty since it's resistance is out of range? Anyone that can offer help/advice please chime in. Thanks
95 Gl Zetec Atx
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So much for trying to get any help, huh?
95 Gl Zetec Atx
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
Joined: May 2004
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i would say that it probably is not working...when mine whent bad, it would clik on and off repeatedly (or opened and closed) and it would casue the idle to rise and fall by over 1500 RMPS!!! my families mechanic replaced with my Timing belt, waterpump, serpentine belt and all my fluids...and a rear wheel bearing  .
Regards, Cole.
Relegating to troll status sometime this week.
New Whip: 1990 Lexus ES250.
Old Hotness: 1995 GL MTX Zetec *IN TRIAGE*
"I had a little friend once, but it dont move no more...  "
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I ordered a IAC from O'reilly's, cost me 50 bucks. I hope it solves my problem. I'll post my results once I get it on.
95 Gl Zetec Atx
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
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heh, good luck changing it, plan on a new IM gasket, cause you might have to remove it to get easier acess, its as much of a bitsh as the block heater/freeze plug...
Regards, Cole.
Relegating to troll status sometime this week.
New Whip: 1990 Lexus ES250.
Old Hotness: 1995 GL MTX Zetec *IN TRIAGE*
"I had a little friend once, but it dont move no more... "
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Posts: 160
CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Stryker:
heh, good luck changing it, plan on a new IM gasket, cause you might have to remove it to get easier acess, its as much of a bitsh as the block heater/freeze plug...
I can get to it pretty easily. When I tested it, all I did is remove all intake components and removed a torx screw from the bracket that holds the fuel lines and I just lifted them up out of the way to where I could get my hands in there. I'll just do the same thing when I go to take it out.
95 Gl Zetec Atx
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Veteran CEG\'er
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For me, if the idle started surging up and down, it was always just a dirty MAF symptom. Good to know there is another thing that can cause it.
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Originally posted by Paul Kienitz:
For me, if the idle started surging up and down, it was always just a dirty MAF symptom. Good to know there is another thing that can cause it.
I wish that's all it was, would be a cheap fix. I have cleaned it and it didn't do anything. Anyways...here's an update to replacing the IAC. Took me about 30 minutes to get the old one off and put the new one on. Unfortunately, that didn't fix my problem  Anyone have any other suggestions? I have cleaned maf, replaced pcv valve, cleaned throttle body, replaced egr valve, replaced dpfe, checked idle increase solenoid (was good), the air filter is still clean. What am I missing? Maybe a new PCM 
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by emartinez13:
Originally posted by Paul Kienitz:
For me, if the idle started surging up and down, it was always just a dirty MAF symptom. Good to know there is another thing that can cause it.
I wish that's all it was, would be a cheap fix. I have cleaned it and it didn't do anything. Anyways...here's an update to replacing the IAC. Took me about 30 minutes to get the old one off and put the new one on. Unfortunately, that didn't fix my problem Anyone have any other suggestions? I have cleaned maf, replaced pcv valve, cleaned throttle body, replaced egr valve, replaced dpfe, checked idle increase solenoid (was good), the air filter is still clean. What am I missing? Maybe a new PCM
Did you disconnect the negative battery cable for 15 minutes to re-set the computer? If not that could be your problem. After you remove it for 15 minutes and reconnect it the first thing you want to do it put it in Park for 1 minute at least, running so it re-learns idle, then drive all around, the see if your problem is still there.
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You know what, I didn't do that and I thought about it but I didn't think it would make a difference. I am going to try it. Just out of curiousity, why should it be necessary to do that? I mean you would think that if you replace the malfunctioning part that it would automatically just work, but I guess not. Thanks for the suggestion.
Something I just remembered, shouldn't the computer be reset by pulling fuse 4 and 11 rather than by the negative cable? Or will both do the job?
Last edited by emartinez13; 07/13/04 10:43 PM.
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