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yeah, funny thing about those brakes . . . it seems the bits and pieces I got with the kits were all mixed up, both the 14" and 13" setups . . . trying to get the right brackets and stuff still to sell the 14" kit.


Balance is the Key. rarasvt@comcast.net
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Originally posted by Big Jim:
Add to that list Valvoline Synpower 502 dry boiling point and 343 wet boiling point.




I looked at the label on a new bottle of Valvoline in the store today. They have lowered the specs. The new bottle reads 486 dry and 330 wet. That is still better than Castrol LMA, but not what Valvoline Synpower used to be.

At work, we test the brake fluid of nearly every car that comes in. We use a test strip that turns color depending on the quantity of water in the fluid. From that I can tell that it takes longer in general terms for Valvoline and BG (the product we use in most of our brake flushes) to turn the test strip dark than it does for Ford fluid.

It is good to hear that there are better fluids. My main reluctance to ATE lies in the crappy original equipment pads and rotors they supply to many automakers as original equipment. It sort of puts them toward the bottom of the list to start with. But if it works, it works. I just may try it. In the meantime, Valvoline works for me.


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Originally posted by Rara:
yeah, funny thing about those brakes . . . it seems the bits and pieces I got with the kits were all mixed up, both the 14" and 13" setups . . . trying to get the right brackets and stuff still to sell the 14" kit.




No biggie.

And to stay on topic both Terri and I have had GREAT results with the ATE Super Blue. That includes several track events...


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ATE! ATE!! Come on people, it's the best. . .and it's been used and tested on our cars. . .

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Thanks!!!
And I also found this I PM'd you about some time ago?
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

Paul


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Originally posted by patman:
Any brake fluid should work fine so long as it's properly maintained....if you are racing...use Ate Super Blue or Motul...other than that...DOT 3 will be fine.




Not if you (a) have an ATX, and (b) drive mountain roads. Brake overheating on steep roads can be a serious problem with these cars. I consider DOT 4 a minimum for those conditions.

Right now I've got like 2/3 Castrol LMA and 1/3 Synpower. I hope those two get along.

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Originally posted by Paul Kienitz:
Originally posted by patman:
Any brake fluid should work fine so long as it's properly maintained....if you are racing...use Ate Super Blue or Motul...other than that...DOT 3 will be fine.




Not if you (a) have an ATX, and (b) drive mountain roads. Brake overheating on steep roads can be a serious problem with these cars. I consider DOT 4 a minimum for those conditions.

Right now I've got like 2/3 Castrol LMA and 1/3 Synpower. I hope those two get along.



Paul, they are supposed to be compatible, but I'm wondering, is there a specific reason you're mixing the two? I know what you're talking about regarding mountains, years ago I used to do a 500 mile sprint through the Rockys in 7 hours every second weekend . Completely different than 500 miles most other places.

If you're changing your fluid every 1-2 years than the Valvoline is likely the most cost effective with a minimum wet boiling point of approx. 330-343. If you're changing your brake fluid every 6-9 months than the dry boiling point is more of a factor and the Ford HD Fluid should be fine but needs to be changed at least every 9-12 months as it's got a low wet boiling point. Alot of racers use it because in those conditions you're changing fluid frequently so dry boiling points are more important.

For about twice the money, the ATE Super Blue and Type 200 are great and have a long life (Wet BP = 536 Dry BP = 396). Many people switch between the two as they are basically the same brake fluid but one is blue and the other reddish yellow. By alternating you can visibly tell when the old fluid has been completely drained by the change in colour.

Regards, Alan


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Add these specs to the list.


AP Racing 550

DOT 3

550°F (287°C)

284°F (140°C)

AP Racing 600

DOT 3

572°F (300°C)

284°F (140°C)

ATE Super Blue

DOT 4

536°F (280°C)

382°F (194°C)

ATE Super 200 (amber color, aka Type 200)

DOT 4

536°F (280°C)

382°F (194°C)

Bosch DOT 3

DOT 3

491°F (255°C)

288°F (142°C)

Bosch DOT 4

DOT 4

509°F (265°C)

329°F (165°C)

Bosch DOT 4+

DOT 4

536°F (280°C)

356°F (180°C)

Castrol LMA

DOT 4

446°F (230°C)

311°F (155°C)

Castrol SRF

DOT 4

590°F (310°C)

518°F (270°C)

Ford HD (C6AZ-19542-AB)

DOT 3

550°F (287°C)

284°F (140°C)

Motul DOT 5.1

DOT 5.1

509ºF (265°C)

365ºF (185°C)

Motul Racing Brake Fluid 600

DOT 4

594ºF (312ºC)

421°F (216°C)

Performance Friction Z-Rated

DOT 3

550°F (287°C)

284°F (140°C)

Wilwood 570

DOT 3

570°F (299°C)

284°F (140°C)

Wilwood EXP600 Plus

DOT 4

633°F (330°C)

417°F (213°C)




Less Bling, more Zing Todd/TCE www.tceperformanceproducts.com
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