So in my case, maybe the belt is hitting the bottom cover. Ill take a look at it. Since its running fine on the sides, its just rubbing on the edge somewhere.
Ill get my local buddy (he just loves hondas tho) and he'll figure it out for me.
I figure its either rubbing the bottom or middler cover. it looks frayed on the edge. Im just worried bcs its my moms car, otherwise it would be fine with me LOL.
Sounds like it's hitting something. Or a roller is jammed or dragging. Check the inside of top, middle, and bottom cover, you should see it. But as the belt gets old I think the front edge starts to wear, and the cords come out.
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
Check out the link that Jd2-98s posted. It shows how to hold the cam with the wrench like I was talking about. Leaving the sprockets loose, lets the sprockets turn to get the slack out and the proper tension on the belt. After you get it set tighten them back up. The crank pin I am talking about, screws in the block and the crank rests againest it to make sure you are exactly at TDC. It is a good idea to replace your tensioner and idlers while doing the timing belt job. If you will give me your email, I will send you some good instructions. It has good pictures. You can PM me if you don't want to put it on this page.
Awesome advice everyone. Thanks a ton especially for the links to the old posts with pictures.
My friend didn't make it over tonight. So it'll be a little more delay before letting you guys know how it went. I'll let you know as soon as we are done.
Tony2005, I tried that link the past and that one really confused me. I had no idea what to do with the exhaust sprocket since it is so different from the manual. You can't use their holding device or anything it says.
All this stuff in this thread is really helping me out. Thanks everybody.
Originally posted by Dec1000: Check out the link that Jd2-98s posted. It shows how to hold the cam with the wrench like I was talking about. Leaving the sprockets loose, lets the sprockets turn to get the slack out and the proper tension on the belt. After you get it set tighten them back up. The crank pin I am talking about, screws in the block and the crank rests againest it to make sure you are exactly at TDC. It is a good idea to replace your tensioner and idlers while doing the timing belt job. If you will give me your email, I will send you some good instructions. It has good pictures. You can PM me if you don't want to put it on this page.
you can use their holding device, but its pointless because the cam sprocket for the exhaust will spin anyways. The holding device is just good for the intake at TDC and the exhaust just takes a little time but less than 30 min if uve done it before. I have to try this pin idea, ive never seen it done. My method worked and the car runs like new.
Looks like the belt is hitting something in my case. Ill see next week after my last exam.
Maybe your belt running off center has something to do with not getting the tension right since you didn't loosen the sprockets. Tight in places and loose in others.
. Read this