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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336 |
You do realize that you must pull the pistons from the top right ... that would involve new head bolts since they are TTY and new head gaskets, timing cover gaskets & fluids ... pull the pan and do it that way.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 139
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 139 |
Originally posted by fastcougar:
You do realize that you must pull the pistons from the top right ... that would involve new head bolts since they are TTY and new head gaskets, timing cover gaskets & fluids ... pull the pan and do it that way.
Done and done.. I have a bare block in my engine bay and all the parts including gaskets, head bolts and rod bolts ready to go. I even have a cylinder hone to put new criss cross patter n into the bad cyl. I just wasn't sure if you could remove a piston and reinstall it without disturbing the rings. Can you take them in and out no problem or do you need new rings every time? I do have a ring compressor tool to put the new piston in but I'm just not sure if its better to leave the other five in the cyl and try to clip the bearings in from the underside.
98.5 Black contour // A.K.A. Frankenstein
3L Oval port swap W P&P // SVT UIM, LIM, & Cams
Torsen LSD // Dual Friction // KKM // Poly Mounts // ?Mystery Mod? // Actually Running!
205 hp @ 6500RPM 180 tq @ 4250RPM
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by SVTake2:
Alright well I found a piston in a ford parts warehouse in my province and it�s a good thing. I called bill and he said he didn't have one in stock and it was back ordered for a month! I also have new rod bearings, rings, and gaskets for my top end. What I have to decide now is if I want to bother replacing the Main Crankshaft bearings. I didn't realize that the bottom bolt were TTY and this little surprise repair has stretched my budget enough as it is. Is it worth the money? The engine has less than 20K (according to LKQ when I purchased it) and It will never see another track day that is for sure. I've scrapped the nitrous idea (kit already half installed  but I might be tempted to autox every once in a while.
Believe me I love my contour and I can live with a money pit, but it is turning into a money vortex. Just keep that in mind.
If the rod bearings looked good when you took them off and if you have no reason to think that the crank main bearings would have gunk in them or damage, then no I wouldn't change them.
I would def. change the rod bearings to clevites because they are a better bearing and for piece of mind though.
On the rings: Did you rehone the cylinders at all? If not and if they look good, then I hope you are using Ford MoCo. rings on those pistons. Ford rings on our engine were low-tension rings and they seem to be very good rings.
If you rehoned the cylinders then you may want to use an aftermarket set of rings that are made to break-in to a rehoned cylinder. Otherwise you will have lots of blowby in a little while like I did a couple years back.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by SVTake2:
Originally posted by fastcougar:
You do realize that you must pull the pistons from the top right ... that would involve new head bolts since they are TTY and new head gaskets, timing cover gaskets & fluids ... pull the pan and do it that way.
Done and done.. I have a bare block in my engine bay and all the parts including gaskets, head bolts and rod bolts ready to go. I even have a cylinder hone to put new criss cross patter n into the bad cyl. I just wasn't sure if you could remove a piston and reinstall it without disturbing the rings. Can you take them in and out no problem or do you need new rings every time? I do have a ring compressor tool to put the new piston in but I'm just not sure if its better to leave the other five in the cyl and try to clip the bearings in from the underside.
Ok, if you have good cylinder walls then DO NOT rehone the cylinders by hand on this engine! You will not be able to get a better seal honing by hand and replacing the rings with aftermarket, as you can just by replacing that one piston and reusing the rings that were on the old one or using the new Ford rings that should have come with the piston.
Here is my advice.
Take the rings back that you bought. Take the new piston from Ford and if it came rings installed then leave them and install it as-is since in your previous post you said there was no damage to the cylinder wall. This and newere engines are designed with little to no break-in (Procyon taught me this and I learned it all the hard way  lol) on the cylinders. The cylinders are crosshatched and polished then a ring of the correct alloy and tension is designed to ride in it with minimal friction. In short time the rings are seated to the cylinder. If you hone the cylinder you make it rougher and the roughness will wear away the surface coating on the compression rings and they will not seal anymore. Hand honing at this point would require the use of aftermarket rings such as sealed power probably.
While the head is off just make sure there are no high spots of mushroomed metal where the head was impacted by the solid object, do a light sanding job over it to reduce the roughness so it doesn't attract carbon build up or create hot spots of metal in the cylinder that can cause pre-ignition.
Put on new gaskets and reassemble it.
In the bottom end put in the new rod bearings and rod bolts and call it a day.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 344
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 344 |
Did you ever find the source of the original debris? You need to ensure that this doesn't happen again. I've never heard of just sucking something through the intake all of a sudden. Was this the original engine in the vehicle. I have heard of replacement engines failing due to debris from the orginal engine failure getting sucked into the replacement engine. In this type of situation, the debris can even come from the exhaust into the engine due to valve overlap and such. I've seen cat convertor material inside failed engines before. I believe the EGR can also be a route for fine debris.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 139
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 139 |
I haven't found the source of the debris that caused the damage. I do have a beat up old KKM intake (on the way out k&n going in) but this was something big and hard to cause all that damage. I did the mystery mod and I never really thought about sucking something in from the exhaust side. The hard cornering and all that heat might have loosened something out, but I'm pretty sure I emptied those suckers out completely. , I also took a look at the main catalytic converter to see if it caught anything but i couldn't find anything. I will make sure to take a real good look at all the intake components as I'm putting it together.
I really wish I could find out what it was so I can make sure it doesnt happen again.
Thanks for the ideas.
98.5 Black contour // A.K.A. Frankenstein
3L Oval port swap W P&P // SVT UIM, LIM, & Cams
Torsen LSD // Dual Friction // KKM // Poly Mounts // ?Mystery Mod? // Actually Running!
205 hp @ 6500RPM 180 tq @ 4250RPM
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