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#1436597 11/15/05 11:32 PM
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okay so i am going round two on the damm 3.0L ill be getting around an 03-04 full oval port. i am going to run the svt cams , get it port matched. I will have the rod berrings( cant spell) done too, where can I buy them the chevett 77 ones?? and is there any thing else i can do to make this one last longer then 92 miles?? lol and i am sure half of you are going to flame me,so its waiting.

#1436598 11/15/05 11:36 PM
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do i need to do both the main and rods?? or just rods?? thanks you diehards

#1436599 11/16/05 01:31 AM
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Rods will suffice, unless there is a reason to do the mains. Good luck with round 2!

Mark


2000 Black CSVT 3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
#1436600 11/16/05 02:06 AM
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Clevitte 77 Rod bearings can be had at Napa, Checkers, prolly autozone too. Look for prices.


2000 Contour SVT SF - #542 of 2150
#1436601 11/16/05 08:14 AM
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thanks alot. lets hope the beast last's this time, lol

#1436602 11/16/05 03:14 PM
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Yep - the #1 rerason for premature failures - that I can guess, is starting the engine off the bat without priming the oil first, good and proper. Like I said to Todars, and like I did on my 3L build - I take off the connection to the coil pack once I'm ready to go, and then crank the car over for a good 30secs. This allows the oil pump to get oil every where without any loads form the engine running. THEN you reconnect the coil pack and start it and let the thing idle to it gets warm. Without doing this you are basically putting combustion loads on the mains and rod bearings before there is enough time to get oil to them. This gouges the bearings and then they quickl (50-100miles) fail after that.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
#1436603 11/16/05 04:41 PM
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umm ... but doing it that way you are flooding the engine and saturating both the pre-cats/main cat and the spark plugs. I have always pulled the fuse to the fuel pump instead ... no fuel pressure = no fuel = no start ... of course, doing both just to be safe that there isn't a "start/stall" condition would probably be best. However, I have never liked the disconnect only the coil method due to fuel fouling issue that can arise.

#1436604 11/16/05 04:47 PM
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dont you want to pull fuel pump fuse, the connector to the coil pack, and the plugs i.e. no compression also?


the 3.0L oval port 3.0L '98 midnight blue se
#1436605 11/16/05 05:00 PM
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Not unless you want a mess/possible fire. I've never done it to confirm and don't want to take the chance, but my theory is that there is still fuel and residual pressure in the rail and removing the plugs would basically shoot this out of the engine. Maybe remove the plugs after 5 seconds of cranking and then recrank for remainder.

#1436606 11/16/05 05:57 PM
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If you crank with the throttle wide open, the fuel is shut off. There is no need to do anything else. Hold the throttle wide open and crank for 30 seconds. Stop cranking. Release throttle and crank again to start.


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited
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