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#1408988 10/11/05 07:41 PM
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Took a few pics of my 3.0 work in progress. Right now I'm prepping an 01 3.0 from a taurus. It supposedly only has 10k on it but I have some doubts about that.

Here's the crank from the 3.0. I took it out so I could get the block tanked. Is it ok to have wear marks like that? It's actually still smooth to the touch and not anything that feels like a scratch or a gouge but it has me a bit concerned. Maybe I'm just paranoid.


This is the 2.5 cover that I'm going to use. When I took the seal out I scratched it up a bit. I'm hoping I didn't ruin it. Can someone tell if it will be ok to use?



The pistons from the 3.0 had a lot of carbon build up and I was wondering,
Is it normal to see that amount of build up (the one on the far right) after only 10k?
I tried to clean them up as you can see but is this good enough, and what do you use to get them clean?


And check out these bearings from the 2.5.


Another view of the worst bearings.


Some background. I want to do a 3.0 oval port match to svt lim and use uim and svt cams. Was originally going to stick with the 2.5 heads but later changed course.

I appreciate any input on this stuff, thanks.


1998.5 SVT I'm working on it. WTB 2.0L Contique.
#1408989 10/11/05 07:56 PM
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Some Berrymans and/or Seafoan should clean up those pistons.

As for the seal bore, use a little anaerobic sealant around the outside of the seal to fill the scratches.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
#1408990 10/11/05 08:41 PM
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Mine looked brand new at 10-13k. Can't remember what it had on it. Didn't have any "scoring" like that. Looking down the plug hole the top of the pistons didn't have that much build up either.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
#1408991 10/11/05 08:41 PM
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That blueing of the crank aint good at all - now that I look at it. I think some crap went through the oiling system to disrupt the oil flow and cause the crank to overheat like that - like SAND!


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
#1408992 10/11/05 08:45 PM
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Originally posted by Stazi:
That blueing of the crank aint good at all - now that I look at it. I think some crap went through the oiling system to disrupt the oil flow and cause the crank to overheat like that - like SAND!




IIRC, we had a discussion on that a while back and the verdict was that the 'blueing' of the crank was due to its curing process or something to that nature...


Ryan Trollin!
#1408993 10/11/05 08:47 PM
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Curing?

This isn't a terracotta crock pot!


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
#1408994 10/11/05 08:48 PM
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sinter forging, wtf the process was called :-P


Ryan Trollin!
#1408995 10/11/05 08:50 PM
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LMAO - the crank is not sinter forged! The rods are though.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
#1408996 10/11/05 08:52 PM
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Don't make me go medieval on your arse!


Ryan Trollin!
#1408997 10/11/05 10:52 PM
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I can't really tell by the pic, but for the front timing cover bore...as long as there isnt a deep scratch that goes frm one side to the other it should be fine. And I believe the specs for porosity in that area were nothing greater than 40 thou. inside, no more than 10 thou. on the chanfer and no more than 3 occurences of 15 thou. within an inch.


2000 Contour SVT SF - #542 of 2150
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