Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting A/C Problem...

Ive been using the a/c more than regularly now that i got a new job and drive alot but i sprung a leak in the pipe where the recharge valve is, just to the right of it 5 inches down. I recharged it and noticed a big gash in that pipe so i used some putty i found at autozone for manifolds, and it stopped that leak. Now, the a/c cluth still wont engage (i could always hear it) and the a/c wont cool. There is apparently still a leak somewhere near the accumulator (its covered in oil from the refrigirant and leak-stop can). Is it expensive to get replaced at a shop and should it take long? I have to leave the car next door from my office and have to hope its ready in an hour or two.

Anyone know why i got a big gash in that pipe and the accumulator started leaking?

thanks

ivan c.

Oh yea, before i fixed the gash in the pipe the pressure dropped from 40ish to nothing within a minute or two, now it takes 10-15mins for the pressure to drop completely. Since it takes so long for the refrigirant to escape, i figured the ac should work a little.

-ivan c.

The accumulator itself may be leaking, although that tends to be a "northern" problem from salt corrosion. I had the service valve itself leak, too. I would figure 250-300 bucks for the repair, brace yourself. The gash in the pipe is strange, I wonder if the system went to over pressure, if the cooling fan on the radiator went out? There is a safety shutdown though.

That, and there is likely air gap within the system from the, obviously large, gap. Air in the system would prevent the system from working, as well.


Ray

I bought an extra can of the r134 or whatever its called and want to try to recharge it again, but what is the minimum pressure for the low pressure switch to work? Ive read 40-45, but want to make sure before i blow it.

thanks alot

ivan c.

24 psi, I remember seeing was the point the compressor would stop.

Pag Oil on the outside means less pag oil in the system. Now you dont know how much oil is left. Not enough oil will eventually be a problem for the compressor. Too much will degrade the cooling, etc..
Air left in the system will degrade performance. Air in the system mwans moisture is in there and that will eventually cause corosion and failure. If the gash let air in, probably the reciever drier can is saturated with moisture and that is also a problem.
Totally dry system is 10 ozs oil according to the dealer here.

It takes 2 full cans r134a, otherwise you get no cooling of the air.

Putting in stopleak is a problem, moisture inside the system may react with the sealer and clog the orfice tube, the compressor will hammer and can be ruined.
Fixing the pipe with epoxy or whatever is also a problem as it might not really hold and you are just wasting expensive r134a and your time.

I have found it a waste of time and money to try and take shortcuts with the AC.
The whole system needs to be flushed with a solvent, blown out with compressed air, a new drier installed, a new orfice tube, new O- rings on every connection, the bad pipe welded or replaced, 8 ozs. of 100 viscosity pag oil poured into the drier, the system has to vacuumed down to 29 inches and must hold for at least an hour.

I just got done fixing 2 of my cars and even had to replace leaky compressors. It is a lot, but unless you verify every part it is a waste of time.

I took it to a local garage and they fixed it, for a few days at least. The ac worked ice cold the first few days, it then went downhill to only throwing out fresh air (better than hot i guess). I hear the compressor cycling very quickly (every few secs) which it never did before when the ac worked.

Any ideas?

-ivan

Search up on reasons for short cycling.. the compressor clutch may be going out, or the cycling switch could be bad (cheap fix, there..)


Ray

Short cycling is caused by inadequate refrigerant charge.

He has a leak.

Steve