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Joined: Jun 2003
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I'm replacing my rear passenger side calipar tomorrow and wanted to make sure I don't need to bleed all 4 calipers. I know I'll obviously have to do that one. When I remove the brake line I plan on plugging it right up. So should I be set with just bleeding the new one? Also, if anyone removed theirs before, what tools are needed? Probably some torx bit. Thanks for the info.
AIM...BKapp17
98 T-red SVT
Steeda
Gutted Pre-cats, no resonator
Painted Dash
Angel Eye Fogs
Painted Chrome ring / headlights
Looking for a t-red pre98 trunk lid
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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You are right, if you do it properly, you may only need to bleed the new caliper. However, unless you have changed the brake fluid in the last few months this is a good time to do it all. I would.
I know that a T-47 is needed to remove calipers on our cars, but I don't remember if that is for the front or rears. I hope someone else joins in. This is a frequently asked question.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Hard-core CEG'er
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I use a hardened T-50 for the rears with a serious soaking of PB Blaster, and use the Torx bit on my impact gun, set on 50%. I would HATE to try and remove that sucker without air tools. They are ALWAYS tight and rusted to crap on every tour I've come across, and Ford stuck it to us by making the damn bolt a Torx instead of a regular hex-head bolt. 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Jul 2001
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T-50 for me, as well (98 E1)
HARD AS HELL.. no air tools and no PB blaster.. the BFH took about 2 hours of hitting the torx while in a socket wrench adapter.. rust 0wnz j00...
EDIT: the rears require Torx.. fronts are metric (at least on mine.
Ray
Last edited by Ray; 03/25/05 05:55 AM.
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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I just remembered. I had to buy a 7mm Allen for the fronts and a T47 Torx for the rears.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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CEG\'er
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The back ones are torex (don't remember the size) and are lock tighted in that is why they are hard to get off. I use a long handled 3/8 flex head ratchet for the extra leveage.
Rich S
1998 SVT
1995 Contour 2.5 MTX 215K miles Son's car(dead and buried)
1997 Contour 2.0 ATX
1998 Contour 2.5 ATX
2004 Tauras Wagon 3.0 Duratec
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 253
CEG\'er
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Originally posted by richs:
extra leveage.
I like leveage, no, wait, thats cleveage. 
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The T-47 in the How-to is not correct for all cars, someone should probably correct that. I wasted hours and broke two T-47 drivers before I found the right size (T-50) to use. After that it was cake.
2000 Contour SE Sport
Originator of the Beowulf Headlight Mod and the Beowulf CAI
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I quote my post from earlier (though I am sure it was of no help WHEN you were doing it... I snapped two T47's as well.. LOL) Originally posted by Ray:
T-50 for me, as well (98 E1)
HARD AS HELL.. no air tools and no PB blaster.. the BFH took about 2 hours of hitting the torx while in a socket wrench adapter.. rust 0wnz j00...
EDIT: the rears require Torx.. fronts are metric (at least on mine.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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