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Now ok, no one has to explain, i know why they blink fast. It was recommended to me to use the load resistor kit from superbrightleds.com and i was wondering if anyone has these or how anyone get there taillights to blink at the correct speed. Any pictures, diagrams are VERY welcomed. Thanks everyone in advance.
-Alex
~Alex
Ex- SVT Driver627
MUST SELL!!!LOCAL:
Pre-98 MOLDED trunk
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You know... this is the most odd thing. I was just about to post the very same questions. Only I was looking at this page for front turn signals. http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htmRL-650 Load Resistor kit $ 4.95 At least this is what I was looking at for turn signals. My question was going to ask if I needed these on my Mercury Mystique 98? Or if there was something else cheaper or easy.
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I have no idea, those are the same resistors so i guess we'll have to wait and see if anyone can help us out.
EDIT: This is what the resistor kit looks like.
Last edited by SVT Driver627; 10/07/04 03:40 AM.
~Alex
Ex- SVT Driver627
MUST SELL!!!LOCAL:
Pre-98 MOLDED trunk
Polk db speakers
Corolla parts
LED Underbody Kit
PM
2000 Green CSVT gone on 2/17/06
2001 Toyota Corolla (SHE RUNS!!!)
1989 Mustang LX 5.0
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Originally posted by SVT Driver627:
I have no idea, those are the same resistors so i guess we'll have to wait and see if anyone can help us out.
EDIT: This is what the resistor kit looks like.
those are them, easy to install quick fix. You can get them else where also.
95 SES Sold
99 SE Sport Sold
99 SVT T-Red Tan Interior. K&N, Magnecors, 19' Theorys, And some audio stuff.
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Originally posted by TronX:
You know... this is the most odd thing. I was just about to post the very same questions. Only I was looking at this page for front turn signals.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm
RL-650 Load Resistor kit
$ 4.95
At least this is what I was looking at for turn signals.
My question was going to ask if I needed these on my Mercury Mystique 98? Or if there was something else cheaper or easy.
Beware! From SBL.com:
Quote:
LED bulbs are generally not as bright as standard incandescent bulbs, they have many advantages over filament bulbs (longer life, faster on/off times, lower power consumption, more vivid colors) but brightness is not one of them.
Some of our bulbs are available with 12 or 19 LEDS, obviously the 19 LED units are brighter.
Some of our bulbs are available with Narrow or Wide viewing angle. The Wide angle (approx. 100 degree beam) will light up more area but dimmer than the Narrow angle. The Narrow angle (approx. 15 degree) will illuminate a smaller area but brighter than the Wide angle.
I learned the hard way, LED bulbs don't put out nearly as much light as incandescents, at least not the single drop in units. Just trying to save you from dropping cash on them, then not being able to use them.
1998 Mystique LS:
-2.5 Duratec ATX
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=Pics=
=Info=
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No, you don't need load resistors! That will cancel out the energy savings of the LEDs (one whole reason why the world is switching to LED). You just go to the auto parts store, or the semitruck store and buy a Solid State electronic flasher to go in your steering column. The fast flashing is a form of 'bulb out' warning to let you know that a bulb is out (thinks bulb is out since LEDs don't draw crap for watts). Mine flash normally now.
More experienced electronics savvy guys can soldier in a variable potentiometer that goes where the resistor goes inside the factory Ford flasher and then you can adjust how fast it flashes. But otherwise you can just buy the non-load sensing universal S.S. flasher like I got in mine. The non-load sensing flashers can work on 1 to 10 bulbs and still flash at the same speed.
Here's my LED retrofit I did to my Contour: http://josch.wilksfamily.com/LEDandMarker/LEDretrofit.htm
'95 CONTOUR SE
-Enkei 16s
-SVT wannabe
-Dual escapes w/ 2 1/2" stainless tips
-True LED taillight conversion
- Audi Xenon Projector Retrofit
-Mp3 deck, dual 10s
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Originally posted by amarv12:
I learned the hard way, LED bulbs don't put out nearly as much light as incandescents, at least not the single drop in units. Just trying to save you from dropping cash on them, then not being able to use them.
He's right about the drop-in bulbs not being very bright. Almost not even visible in the daytime.
That's why I used the real LED modules that are DOT legal for semitruck trailers, and I fabbed them into my Contour taillights. And they are really bright, and work like they legally should
'95 CONTOUR SE
-Enkei 16s
-SVT wannabe
-Dual escapes w/ 2 1/2" stainless tips
-True LED taillight conversion
- Audi Xenon Projector Retrofit
-Mp3 deck, dual 10s
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The dummy loads are basically pointless. If you do decide to run one, make sure you put it in the front circuit, otherwise you will be putting extra strain on your brake light system, making the brake lamp switch live a short and unhappy life.
With LEDs (the real ones, not drop ins) at both ends of my car, I can completely agree with what Josch is saying. I used a solid state flasher until I converted the rear, then I just unsoldered the capacitor that is in the flasher and soldered in a smaller one. My signals flash just as fast as OEM, but draw ~1 amp with the flashers on. Lets see the dummy load do that!
The flasher cost about the same as a dummy load (cant remember), and the resistor to change it when I modded the rear was under a dollar. Just food for thought.
· Jon Miconi
· Coming Soon!
· 01 Cougar
· 98 V70R
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and jons car looks way better than any rice led taillight bulbs
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Well.. that sounds like a lot of extra crap I'd have to buy. Maybe I'll just wait until someone makes a drop in bulb that can also add the correct resistance. 
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