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1. Those readings should be fine.
2. They should be able to lift the corner they are adjusting while still on the alignment rack. They will need to estimate how much to adjust, make the adjustment, then lower that corner and check the readings. There is no need to get the springs to settle between lifting and adjusting. Some alignment techs would bounce the car up and down on the rack before making the final readings, but I've been taught that it isn't necessary.
Jim Johnson
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03 Escape Limited
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Originally posted by TomV:
1). Does 1/16" Toe-out, -0.25 deg Camber and whatever max "positive" Caster happens to fall at sound ok, for the front?
2). Since the weight is supposed to be off the suspension for the C/C kit adjustment, how do you get the car to settle back to normal ride height without pulling it off the rack and driving it around?
Thanks!
Those specs will work, but I prefer more camber and you should have no problem with tire wear provided everything is in shape and proper maintence, i.e. checking tire pressure 1-2 times a week and keeping up on rotations, provided you don't have directional tires. Which if you do I don't recommend rotating with a fwd vehicle, usualy causes problems down the road.
Originally posted by Big Jim:
1. Those readings should be fine.
2. They should be able to lift the corner they are adjusting while still on the alignment rack. They will need to estimate how much to adjust, make the adjustment, then lower that corner and check the readings. There is no need to get the springs to settle between lifting and adjusting.
Yes any modern alignment machine has a specfic "jacking" procedure for lifting the car during alignment and making necessary adjustment. When the car is lowered, realy the best way is to let the springs settle by driving but is realy not needed(read below).
Originally posted by Big Jim:
Some alignment techs would bounce the car up and down on the rack before making the final readings, but I've been taught that it isn't necessary.
Jouncing the car after lifting the vehicle is a Must , as well as when first begining alignment and/or making height measurements for adjusting, i.e. adjustable coilovers/torsion bars. The cars suspension must always be settled and at proper ride height before ajusting/measuring(with exception of the jacking procedure explained above).
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Originally posted by livinsvt:
Those specs will work, but I prefer more camber and you should have no problem with tire wear provided everything is in shape and proper maintence, i.e. checking tire pressure 1-2 times a week and keeping up on rotations, provided you don't have directional tires. Which if you do I don't recommend rotating with a fwd vehicle, usualy causes problems down the road.
I agree on the negative camber and believe it contributes greatly to the cars handling characteristics. I really hate to reduce it and that is the reason I waited so long to buy the c/c kit. The conservative -0.25 deg is because I want to end the wear problem once and for all.
â??should have no problem with tire wearâ? is what Iâ??ve been telling myself since the car was new. It came from the factory with directional tires and Iâ??ve also try an asymmetrical design as well. As far as rotation goes, Iâ??ve mentioned previously that I dismount and remount the tires twice a year to have a new inside edge again.
Big Jim,
I was playing around with the adjustments in the driveway last night. Iâ??m curious if you know the range of this kit? I still haven't determined if slight adjustments affect the caster/camber that much, or if it takes a decent rotation to effect things. I did try one quick test to maximum positive camber and the car cornered like an old Buick! So right now Iâ??m only about the strut shaft thickness off of straight back with them. Too bad that Specialty Products didnâ??t design a measuring decal to stick on top of the strut tower.
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1989 Mustang GT
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IMHO if you don't dial in more negative camber, you're going to wear the OUTside edges of the tires if you like to corner hard. That is not likely enough static camber to make up for what is lost to body roll even though the suspension gains neg camber as it compresses.
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Calypso Green '92 Mustang LX coupe, 13.56/101
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I have my camber set nearly at 0 although it may be very perceptably negative. I did it to correct inner edge tire wear. I'm happy to report that it has resolved the problem and edge wear is finally no longer an issue.
I agree that the car may handle slightly beter with a little more negative camber. My car had over 1 degree negative to bigin with. If you are after eliminating inner tire edge wear you most certainly need to keep it less that .5 degrees negative. If you do, you will sort of need to experiment to see how well the tires wear. I know that mine works great with 0 degrees.
I didn't try to see just how much camber adjustment there was, but others have reported that there was about 3 degrees of adjustment (1.5 degrees each way).
Don't try to make this adjustment with alignment equipment. It is very unlikely that you will end up with adjustments anywhere near correct.
If I used my car for racing only on a road course I would have the negative camber up close to 2 degrees and just remember that I would need to replace the tires often.
Jim Johnson
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03 Escape Limited
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Ok, I got my tires remounted and the alignment performed this weekend. Seems to be an improvement and reduced tire noise. So now I just have to monitor the tires closely for a while.
The only strange thing I have yet to figure out is why one side differs from the other. He said the most he could get out of the passanger side for front camber was -.6 & 2.5 deg caster (plate is maxed). The driver side is at -.5 deg & 3.0 degrees caster while this side appears to have plenty of adjustment left.
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Thats no good. A half a degree cross caster may creat a pull. Only chevy truck accomdate crown in the road with cross caster. I can't speak for his adjustment without seeing it. But it seems other people have been able to get alot closer. Maybe try somewere else 
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Actually, I think just I figured out what the deal is... the subframe was probably dropped during the precat replacement I had the dealer perform. I bet the subframe was rebolted off-center. Oh well, I didn't notice any pulling so I might wait a bit to correct that. Thanks for helping me remember!
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Originally posted by TomV:
Actually, I think just I figured out what the deal is... the subframe was probably dropped during the precat replacement I had the dealer perform. I bet the subframe was rebolted off-center. Oh well, I didn't notice any pulling so I might wait a bit to correct that. Thanks for helping me remember!
That would make it pull under acceleration (and maybe decel) but not really in steady state cruising.
It will cause the axles and bearings to wear at an exponentially faster rate though!
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I don't understand how this will increase the wear rate of axles and bearing? The 1998 Ford CDROM Workshop Manual actually states the following for the Contour front suspension specifications: Maximum variation - left to right-hand side - Castor 1.00?° (1?°00') Camber 1.25?° (1?°15')
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