do all zetecs run hot?......if they do , has anybody found a way to keep the temp. down especially in summer weather & in town traffic.......I've tried just about everything from flushing the system , cleaning out rad fins , making sure fan & wp were ok.....surely it can't be good for any engine to run up that close to overheating before the fan comes on.....
about the only idea i have would run a cooler therastat. to kick the fan in sooner. I really dont know i have try to firgure out that for awhile.
I put a 180 in it..........I'm about half tempted to take it out & drill a couple holes in it , but that might ( probably) cause a CEL .......as long as i'm on the highway with good air , it stays right at R-M , get in town for about 5 minutes , right up to L.......might run a cheater switch to fan relay & switch it on high as long as it's in town.....ty4 reply
Originally posted by odell:
I put a 180 in it..........I'm about half tempted to take it out & drill a couple holes in it , but that might ( probably) cause a CEL .......as long as i'm on the highway with good air , it stays right at R-M , get in town for about 5 minutes , right up to L.......might run a cheater switch to fan relay & switch it on high as long as it's in town.....ty4 reply
$hit, mine runs at, but not in, the red in town. (actually just past the "L")
how old are your water pumps????
not sure....i've had car going on two yrs. & it's always run hot (never in the red )..i was just trying to find out if they all do that , & if not ,what others have done to correct the situation.....not crazy about changing wp & still have same situation
well the setec does run hot which is normal. however if you are getting up into the L in normal it may be time for a new water pump or you could get a lower temp thermostat from ZXtuner.
mine always runs in the middle.
I just got out Haynes manual , & it says to replace water pump requires removing timing belt..surely there has to be a better way.....
Originally posted by odell:
I just got out Haynes manual , & it says to replace water pump requires removing timing belt..surely there has to be a better way.....
nope
I have 80k on my car, original W/P, and it runs right in the middle.
Got my low temp thermostat which I have to install this week.
Run a (mostly) Water and Coolant mixture and add a bottle of Redline Water Wetter to it.
Get a 180 degree Thermostat.
That should help out your problem.
I went a step further and added an engine oil cooler.
Cut engine oil temp by 20 degrees.
Even on warm days sitting in traffic I only get half way through the "N".
i hit L all nite tonite, but i was uummm, spiritly driving.
and having to hit parking lots a few times where it immediately starts to raise temp.
mine run towards the end of the m and then gets into the a and every now and then gets into the L I just pulll over and shut the engine off so that away it wont have a chance to overheat. But man you might want to try the tempature sencor.. its only a $15 part for my zetec. I hope that helped
oh great....I'm loosing coolant now without any obvious place for it going ( not in oil & can't see any leaks )....my tranny issue is back in less than a month ( o/d light blinking & now for the first time , I'm getting some "slam" shifting ).......all this trouble is looking like it's going to cost more than book value of car....even though it's gonna break my heart , I might have to let the old 'Tour go....
when i first got my car the overheating scared the beejezus outta me. I changed the water pump, the old one was platic, the new one is metal, and the old one was in perfect condition. I had the thermostat changed and I flushed the coolant and ran a conditioner and the strongest cleaner for the coolant as possible, and it still did nothing. Now I just run it with the defroster on all the time, when I come to a stop then it kicks the fan on and I'm cool sailing. When I drive, the wind keeps it cool. Normal driving I only get into the "A" range. At stops and lights, it will cool down to the "M". I'm just a little caustious is all
Originally posted by LoCoZ2.0:
.. Got my low temp thermostat which I have to install this week.
Why would you want to have your engine take longer to reach the ideal operating temperature? Purpose of thermostat is to get it there asap.
Purpose of rad with air movement provided by car motion (or fans if such is insufficient) is to keep engine temp from rising more than just slightly above that ideal temperature.
180 degrees is the optimal operating temperature for an internal combustion engine running on fossil fuels.
So adding a 180 degree thermostat (opposed to the 195 degree that comes stock) doesn't make the car take any longer to get to 180 degrees.
Just keeps it closer to 180 degrees.
Thermostat test from '97 & '98 Ford manuals:
"Remove the water thermostat and immerse in a boiling antifreeze and water mixture. The water thermostat should begin to open at 86 - 90 º C (187 - 194 º F) 2.0L engine, 84 - 88 º C (183 - 190 º F) 2.5L engine and be fully open at 102 º C (216 º F) 2.0L engine, 99 º C (210 º F) 2.5L engine. Install a new thermostat if it does not operate as specified."
Kinda makes you wonder why Ford would use a thermostat that only starts to open past the optimum you state of 180 F degrees.
Perhaps you should check your facts.
LMAO, i wonder why ford did a lotta things. why did they use cheap plastic in my car, why is they're no turbo zetec stock fsvt?,etc. if your car runs in the NORMAL range, then it is fine for operating, there is no1 on here that races their zetec and would say when it's in the L is the optimal condition. I think between N and R would be best, and 180 degree thermostat will help that. just because ford did something doesn't mean they did the best thing,,, remember the contour didn't sell too well, does that mean that's what ford wanted?
I heard on a commercial once that "Ford has a better idea "........wonder what it was?
I don't know that it is really so much that the Zetect tends to run hot, as that the temperature gauge tends to read high at the temperature at which the Zetec normally runs. It doesn't appear to me that the gauge is a very precise instrument. When I got my Mystique, the gauge nearly always pointed straight up once the engine was up to normal temperature, and stayed there most of the time. OBD??II readings, which come from an entirely different sensor, showed that the temperature nearly always stayed very close to 192° F.
Then my gauge stopped working. I had to replace the sensor. Ever since I replaced the sensor, the temperature gauge now usually reads between A and L. The OBD??II reading still shows the temperature to be around 192° F. It isn't that my engine now runs hotter (it doesn't). It's just that the gauge now reads higher, at the same actual temperature.
I very much suspect that it is for very similar reasons that most Zetecs are thought to ??run hot?.
Originally posted by horseydug:
Thermostat test from '97 & '98 Ford manuals:
"Remove the water thermostat and immerse in a boiling antifreeze and water mixture. The water thermostat should begin to open at 86 - 90 º C (187 - 194 º F) 2.0L engine, 84 - 88 º C (183 - 190 º F) 2.5L engine and be fully open at 102 º C (216 º F) 2.0L engine, 99 º C (210 º F) 2.5L engine. Install a new thermostat if it does not operate as specified."
Kinda makes you wonder why Ford would use a thermostat that only starts to open past the optimum you state of 180 F degrees.
Perhaps you should check your facts.
what a manual says and what is ON these cars are two different things please check your facts first before telling someone else to check theirs.
I have had the 180 thermostat hector sopke of for over a year now and it made a BIG differance my temp gauge never goes past the O in normal and the car runs MUCH better because of it. I also picked up the stock one for the car new and put it in to do some testing and as sleeper stated it is a 195F my temp gauge was sitting in the M on Normal and acceleration was sluggish compaired to the 180 thermostat.
but what the hell could I know about a Zetec... OOH wait I own one do you?
Originally posted by ZetecRacing:
how old are your water pumps????
are you talking to me zetecracing? if you are, they are original.
ZetecRacing :
Suggest you ratchet back a notch or three and reread
sleeperZ's post and my response which was specifically in reference to his statement "180 degrees is the optimal operating temperature for an internal combustion engine running on fossil fuels."
Zetec/Duratec ownership is irrelevant regarding above, although I'm aware the thread is Zetec Heat.
Bob Blaylock:
Originally posted by Bob Blaylock:
I don't know that it is really so much that the Zetect tends to run hot, as that the temperature gauge tends to read high at the temperature at which the Zetec normally runs. ...
Well said. A one point temp calibration can be achieved by immersing a new sender in boiling water while connected to the car wiring. A second point can be obtained by using a boiling 50/50 solution.
Originally posted by horseydug:
ZetecRacing :
Suggest you ratchet back a notch or three and reread sleeperZ's post and my response which was specifically in reference to his statement "180 degrees is the optimal operating temperature for an internal combustion engine running on fossil fuels."
Zetec/Duratec ownership is irrelevant regarding above, although I'm aware the thread is Zetec Heat.
Originally posted by Bob Blaylock:
I don't know that it is really so much that the Zetect tends to run hot, as that the temperature gauge tends to read high at the temperature at which the Zetec normally runs. ...
Well said.
It is optimal. When running my car at the track it made a 3 tenths of a second difference in times with differences in engine temp. 
What would I know? 
I still think a lot of the problem with the overheating is that the fans don't turn on when we would like for them to do so. I know that's my problem. My thermostat holds the temperature at R-M when I have highway air movement, but the fan doesn't turn on until L.
My old 'Tour finally got to be too much to deal with & too expensive to keep, so i found a dealer who gave me twice the book trade in on it...I know I didn't stick around long , but thanks to all CEGers for all the help when i had it......I'm really gonna miss that car , it was a CHALLENGE....
Originally posted by bentleywarren:
I still think a lot of the problem with the overheating is that the fans don't turn on when we would like for them to do so. I know that's my problem. My thermostat holds the temperature at R-M when I have highway air movement, but the fan doesn't turn on until L.
Yet another item corrected w/ my Street Flight chip
Originally posted by 1fast95tour:
a KKM CAI will solve all these problems... 
if only i could find one...
what??? kkm makes an open air filter intake that isn't worth the money. CTA makes an intake that helps you go faster. and darrel's one-off street flight CAI helps speed BUT it will not help make the engine cooler. The engine still will run hot it just has cooler air to combust.
Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Originally posted by 1fast95tour:
a KKM CAI will solve all these problems... if only i could find one...
what??? kkm makes an open air filter intake that isn't worth the money. CTA makes an intake that helps you go faster. and darrel's one-off street flight CAI helps speed BUT it will not help make the engine cooler. The engine still will run hot it just has cooler air to combust.
True. 
Just thought I'd add that my zetec used to always read right up near the A and L until I replaced the thermostat w/ a 180degree one and now the gauge never moves past the R in normal unless I just have the car idleing and it hasn't moved for a long period of time.
BTW this talk about the cooling fans not kicking in soon enough... there could be some truth to that because before the new thermostat went in, I had the car hooked up to the obd-II scanner and the fan would kick in around 210 degrees and now w/ the new stat, the fan kicks in around 195-200 when the car is running and not moving. Not a big difference but obviously enough to make a difference.
yeah, my fans don't kick on to last minute. I'll be putting in lower temp thermostat, new WP, and changing coolant again. If that doesn't work, then I'll some of that stuff to coolant , water wetter i think it's called.
Redline Water Wetter or Royal Purple Purple Ice.
I've used both and they appear to work about the same.
If you really want to cut engine temps, get an oil cooler.
i noticed that there is a 160 degree thermostat at zxtuner. wouldnt that work even better?
yeah, but u'd need a custom chip,, and during winter, your engine may not get warm enough which makes it wear out quicker.
in an earlier post about thesame thing, i read that something went wrong with numerous peoples computers when they switched down to a 180 degree thermostat? is this true?
no i don't think it is,,, i think u'r thinking of the 160 degree thermostat.
Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
no i don't think it is,,, i think u'r thinking of the 160 degree thermostat.
That is what I am thinking. IT says specifically on the zxtuner website that the computer will need to be programmed.
Ill just throw this out there. There is sensor that if you unpplug it will cause the fan to run when the ignition is on. It is on the thermostat housing. It is the top one in my 95 the bottom one (they look the same) actually sends the temp to the gauge. This will throw off a cel but if you really need to you can disconect it with no tools. It might help you out if your ever in a bind.
sounds like something to do while at the track in staging lanes. then hurry plug it back in before closing hood.... i'm not sure how other tracks work, but here you can have hood open till u'r just about to race.
well i just bought a 96 Contour GL and it is running in the L range the fans come on and it never goes below the a the car isnt overheating (no coolant loss or boilover hell no pressure even after running it in traffic
it is bugging me that it runs so hot
i am going to replace the fluids and the Thermastat with a 180
so this is a common thing running all the time in the L on the temp gauge
I suppose you could splice a toggle switch into one of the wires going to this sensor (I think it is the coolant temperature sensor). When you flip the toggle switch open, it should do the same thing as dis-connecting the switch. The next step in convenience is to extend the toggle switch and mount it in the dash, where you can turn it on and off from inside the car.
You could do a similar thing by splicing a toggle switch into the a/c pressure cut-off switch, that mounts into the high pressure a/c line. Connecting two of the wires from this switch will activate the high speed fan.
2 cents -
Car one - 180 thermo runs O -R antifreeze @ -40 with recall fan sensor
Car two - 195 thermo runs A - L af @ -45 all stock
Conclusion: I will install a 180 f into car two, because of the above observed conditions.
I've solved one cooling problem and now I'm finding new ones. I replaced my a/c pressure cut/off switch, so now the a/c and also the high speed fan appear to be working correctly. But, the low speed fan is not engaging at all. I suppose that's why my fan is not coming on until the gauge reaches the L, which is when the high speed fan kicks in. I've been tracing the wiring, and it appears that my resistor that mounts at the bottom of the radiator, which reduces the current for the low speed fan, is defective. Here's my question.....Is this resistor a replaceable unit? The diagram on Fordpartsonline.com makes it look like I have to replace the entire unit, including the fan, motor, shroud, housing....
Originally posted by bentleywarren:
.... I've been tracing the wiring, and it appears that my resistor that mounts at the bottom of the radiator, which reduces the current for the low speed fan, is defective. Here's my question.....Is this resistor a replaceable unit? ...
According to a usually reliable source it is: Cooling fan resistor
Part # in this thread: click
Yeah, I thought life was good for awhile.
That repair was for my contour, and the problem now is on my mystique, but the problems are similar.
What Ford did was to install a secondary inline resistor, right next to the fan. They didn't replace the one in the fan shroud. I still haven't figured out how they were getting the current to the inline resistor, but they apparently re-routed the wiring somehow. Well, after a short while, the inline resistor burned out, and Ford installed another one, which also burned out. I don't know what kind of resistor they were using, but it had a very short life expectancy, so I'm now trying to replace the original one.
On my last trip to Ford, they removed the inline resistors, and returned the wiring to its original routing, which means the current is now channeled to the dead resistor.
I checked the part number, and it shows it is for a 2.0 liter 1999 - 2002, or a 2.5 liter 1995 - 2000, both of which I believe had the dual fans. Mine has the single fan, with two speeds, but maybe the resistor will still work. It's worth a shot.
Thanks.
Resistance value of dropping resistor could be different with single fan, best you check at dealer for part # for your specific configuration.
BTW, I thought recall for early 'tours was to install an inline current limiter (fusible link) for fan motors, not an inline dropping resistor to reduce fan speed.
Hmmmmmmm...maybe it was a current limiter. I know the Ford service manager called it a resistor, but maybe it was nothing more than a fuse. It was a little gizmo, about 4-5 inches long, maybe an inch or so wide, that plugged inline right at the fan connector. I believe three wires went in to it. Ford finally took it out, since it kept melting. I guess that would make sense, if it really was a fusible link. As far as I can tell, they never replaced the original resistor, that was mounted inside the fan housing. That original resistor is the one that I am now trying to replace.
I also have a Zetec that can run hot often staying in the 'A'.
I will be changing a few things soon...but my main concern is that sometimes when I start the car one of the fans is already on....
<P>
My 98 SE was a Fleet car for a few yrs and the next owner was a guy in NYC who didnt do much upkeep....
any thoughts on why a fan would come on with startup?
thanks
ds
If your a/c is on, this will make the high speed fan run.
does anyone know the actual temp is when the zetec is overheating. my grand prix was 265°, along with my brother's old iroc-z. plus i do know that fuel injected engines run hotter than old carbed engines. so if the actual overheating isn't until 265° or so, then probly none of the zetecs are overheating. the guage may be calibrated to sorta say, "fool" us into thinking the car is overheating when it's really not.... i've had my grand prix overheat (cooling fan motor went out), and it made the interior all humid and fogged up the windows on a warm night while running.....
i know mine runs right up to the red in the city (used to be only when a/c was on), and only drops down to maybe the "A" on the highway. nothing seems to be wrong with it. it does have a misfire, dunno why. has new plugs/wires, maybe my coil is bad??? but no heat related issues....... oh yeah, and new water pump/timing belt 1 month ago, new thermostat (dunno temp, got it at autozone when i returned the "mondeo" haynes manual...) and oil change (mobile oil) yesterday..... still runs the same....
Just wanna make sure, the temp gauge sensor is on the bottom of the thermostat housing and the coolant temp. sensor is on top. I just replaced the thermostat to a 180. also had to replace the bottom hose with the metal tube, had a small leak in the metal.It was really rusty but i guess i would be rusty too if i had 225000 miles on me
.
Thanks for any advice coming!
Update...I replaced the resistor yesterday. Now, the fan works, and it works at low speed. Hooray. On the bad side, the fan works when it should not be working.
When I turn on the ignition, after the car has been sitting all night, before I even start the engine, the low speed fan starts running. When I start the engine, the fan continues running. It runs all the time. Now, if I turn on the a/c, the low speed fan stops running, and after a few seconds the high speed fan kicks in, which I think is as it should be. The low speed fan stays off while the a/c is on, even when the a/c high speed fan cycles on and off.
If I turn the a/c off, I have no fan at all for about 35 seconds, and then the low speed fan starts running again. This is when the engine appears to be cool enough that the fan should not be running.
It also seems that if the car does get warm enough that the low speed fan should be turning on, it instead turns off. It's almost like the fan is on when it should be off, and off when it should be on.
Help?
i'm gonna reply to myself.... uhh... i guess when it's in the red, it means it's overheating. i was delivering in very hot weather (about 110°+ heat index) the day after i posted (go figure) and i kept smelling coolant, and i opened my hood before taking a delivery, and it was boiling over from every crevice it could find. hasn't happened since, i think it was just the real hot day.