15w 50 Mobil 1 Synthetic?????

I think you meant 0w30 Mobil 1 right

Sorry just trying to be helpful, don't want some CEG-er walking into their local autoparts store and lookin' bad. Anyways unless you live where its HOT all the time, I'd stay away from the 15w50 Mobil 1 unless your running a S/C or turbo, seeing that they produce ALOT of heat and you would need an oil that can not only stand up to high revs, but stand up to the heat produced by the forced induction AND hi-revs

IMO I'd just stick w/ the 5w30, seeing you don't really need the 0w30 there in Cali

Also don't forget your synthetic oil filter too!

Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:

Originally posted by PackRat:
The previous owner of my car used Mobil 1 15W50 because it's CF rated (for diesels) and meets the bare minimum standards set for VW diesel engines. Not the best choice but certainly not the worst. My engine survived it. I switched to a more diesel friendly oil, Shell Rotella T synthetic, 5W40.

See thats for a diesel engine....I appreciate the info, but im looking for the duratec engine not a diesel. Its kinda comparing apples and oranges....but thanks....0w-40 huh????

Sounds intresting considering that evey winter here in the bay area seems to get colder....like this past winter it was below freezing....25 to 30 degrees...almost every night..

Thanks guys,
roz

Dude, all I meant was that the oil didn't kill my engine.

Hey man, i didn't mean any insult (if i did)....and i understood that you ment it that it didn;t kill your engine, the reason i said it was looking for info on the Duratec is because comparing experiences on the similar or same engine are going to yeild the same results or similar results as if i were to test it on my own car, but with out the risk of experimentation. Though id hardly say this was a risk, i still would rather find out and learn from peoples mistakes than to risk my own car in experament.

Best regards,
Lupe Garcia

whoa, i too have a question now. What's the deal w/ castrol sythetic?? i've been using that and only that, is Mobil better? If not, then what's the best, for summer, not winter, it's only driven in summer. I haven't had to change the oil in sooo long (i moved, it's at the other end of the state

) and i want to say that i used Castrol Synthetic 10w30, that may be wrong, i just changed my gf's oil and might be what i put in there, but anyway, what's scoop on oil as far as what i run and Mobil? Thanks guys

Nah, it's cool. The mere mention of Mobil 15W50 at TDI club can start a flame war. Some of those guys take oil WAAAY too seriously.

I feel ya on that one....lol....some people do here too...but its understandable, oil is the life blood of the car, and if the blood is tainted...then well....we all know what can happen.

Roz

Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
I feel ya on that one....lol....some people do here too...but its understandable, oil is the life blood of the car, and if the blood is tainted...then well....we all know what can happen.

Roz

New Fox reality show? "When good oil goes bad..."

Na...Geraldo Revera...."When Good Oil Goes Bad, On The Next Geraldo!" Or Jerry Springer, "When Oil Seeps With Fuel, and the Piston Rings Hurt By It!"

Oh god...too much time on my hands.....lmao

Roz

Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
I feel ya on that one....lol....some people do here too...but its understandable, oil is the life blood of the car, and if the blood is tainted...then well....we all know what can happen.

Roz

Well, there's a point when the love of your car becomes an obsession. Some of the TDI guys have gone beyond that, especially those who refuse to run anything less than a group 4 synthetic basestock oil and run oil analysis in an attempt to get the most miles out of their oil, post figures about the analysis that requires a chemistry degree to comprehend, rather than simply following the rather generous 10,000 mile factory specified oil change interval using a cheaper but more than satisfactory group 3 synthetic basestock and then calling those of us that do the latter "cheap" or criticize the purchase of a group 3 oil when it's more than $4 a quart.

Threads get locked over stuff like that.

Originally posted by PackRat:

Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
I feel ya on that one....lol....some people do here too...but its understandable, oil is the life blood of the car, and if the blood is tainted...then well....we all know what can happen.

Roz

Well, there's a point when the love of your car becomes an obsession. Some of the TDI guys have gone beyond that, especially those who refuse to run anything less than a group 4 synthetic basestock oil and run oil analysis in an attempt to get the most miles out of their oil, post figures about the analysis that requires a chemistry degree to comprehend, rather than simply following the rather generous 10,000 mile factory specified oil change interval using a cheaper but more than satisfactory group 3 synthetic basestock and then calling those of us that do the latter "cheap" or criticize the purchase of a group 3 oil when it's more than $4 a quart.

Threads get locked over stuff like that.

WOW..that is harsh....sorry you have to put up with people like that....your very right there is a diffrence between an Enthusist and and obsession.

Engine mfg's and oil Mfg's work together on oil specs. 5W-30 is specified for reasons related to fuel economy, valve train lubrication design (e.g see small oil channels), start-up lubrication performance, over all engine cooling.

Personally, having previously worked for Pennzoil and taken their lubrication training in Dallas, I would never go to a 15W-anything unless I had a deisel or the mfg spec'd it. 5W-50 Synthetic would Ok for extreme high temp operating environments. 0W-any thing would only make sense for seasonal application in extreme cold environments (like the arctic).

Hope this helps.

Finally got ahold of Mobil 1's european formula 0w-40, and not sure but I believe the European Duratec's are using it. Chain noise at start up cold or hot now less than a 1/4 second. Since Porsche designed this motor, it seems only right to treat it to the good stuff. 5 years old and at least 10 more to go.
No more snake oil Syntec after Castrol's engineers blew me off when I complained about all the lamp black in the valve-train area. (Two oil changes in 9 months) So much for their fallacious synthetic.
One thing to remember, It's your car, your money whatever makes you feel good do it. The oil companies are out to make a buck and since loyality has went by the way-side, buyer beware! Even if you had your own lab, time and money, you'd probalbly realize it's mostly "marketing hype".
While I can still afford Mobil 1 this is what I'm using in my Duratec and my John Deere.
Paul
98 Mystique LS
DMD

I'm running the 0W-40 as well and have also noticed that the chain noise went away faster. This is good stuff!

Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
I know it exsists, but i am very fond of using my 5w 30 Mobil 1.....Some one said (localy) it was the [censored]!!! What are the pros and cons of this weight??? IS is worth it??

I live in the Bay Area, so the weather in teh summer gets no cooler than 85, and as hot as 105.

Roz

Like I've said sooo many times before: other than in extreme cold temps or under extended, extreme load conditions, whether it's in your moderate Bay Area climate (I've lived there) or the 20 hotter-than-hell Texas summers me and my cars went through, with an extended drain (14,000 miles in my '98 CSVT), and their 20-year-jump-on-the-market-and-hold-all-the-foundation-patents, for our CSVT cars, Amsoil 5w-30 100% synthetic is the only way to go all year long.

"Don't think twice Baby, it's alright"

hey guys...I have been running 5w30 mobil 1 since i had the car in septemebr of last year. Now, i smell burinig oil...theres no smoke comming form the engine bay, or my exahust....and there are no visable leaks...though i believe my crank seal is leaking becaue i found oily sludge build up around it. guys think it may be the crank seal??

Roz

Hey FWIW, I was checking out the specs on a 2002 Sable w/ 3L Duratec and the owners guide specified 5w-20 year round.

Originally posted by tw0wheelin:
Hey FWIW, I was checking out the specs on a 2002 Sable w/ 3L Duratec and the owners guide specified 5w-20 year round.

I heard the new 5w20 is for some emissions mumbojumbo.

Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
hey guys...I have been running 5w30 mobil 1 since i had the car in septemebr of last year. Now, i smell burinig oil...theres no smoke comming form the engine bay, or my exahust....and there are no visable leaks...though i believe my crank seal is leaking becaue i found oily sludge build up around it. guys think it may be the crank seal??

Roz

Based on my experience, I'd say the first thing you should look for is a leaky oil pan gasket. Oil gets onto the exhaust and produces a mighty stench thru the cabin air intakes. If you smell burning oil while stationary or in stop-and-go conditions, but it goes away when you're sailing along, I'd check the pan for oil residue.

Minor leak that it is, I'm having my pan gasket replaced tomorrow. I'm tired of being fumigated in my own car. The shop doing the work here in PA ordered the part from Carquest -- neoprene gasket w/ a metal collar. That puppy will never leak again.

Your crank seal may also be something to keep an eye on -- synth changeovers can expose more than one vulnerability. But I'd bet MONEY the Big Stink is due to a bad pan gasket.

And, you're absolutely correct to be running 5w-30. Until March, I lived in Texas for 20 years, where the air temp routinely hits 100+ between July and September. I ran Amsoil 5w-30 there in my CSVT with no problems. There's no need whatsoever to get jiggy with exotic viscosities.

BTW -- I lived in the East Bay in the mid-70's. A hot day was 90 -- and rare. When did the Bay Area start to see anything near 105-degrees? Are you being Drama-Girl

, or has the climate there really changed that much?

I live in way south san jose....about 10 min form mogan hill.... and last summer i pulled a few 100 degree days ( I heard wrong) and it sould like a wether girl said it was 105....so thats where o got it form....n-e way...it looks like the oil pan too....I saw (earlier today) that the oil pan did hace a little oil build up around the seal...and it look like a very slow drip....i hope your right...it seems so much easier to change than the Crank seal...I'll do the Oil pan first too.

Roz

Here in Oz we get 5W50 Mobil 1 - trying to get anything else is like finding hen's teeth! I take it you guys don't get that viscosity range in the States? My only option was to buy 0W40 Mobil 1 and only direct from the distributor in a 20litre drum for nearly $300- not likely

After doing some research back when I bought the Mondeo new I decided it wasn't a wise decision to use the 5W50 and have changed to another brand of fully synthetic oil.

While I agree oil is important, I've had two engines self destruct on me from timing belts snapping prematurely (no, not Duratecs). So while it is great to use the best oil you can it is sometimes more prudent to spend money in other areas on preventative maintenance!

In the case of the Duratec maybe substituting "water pump" for "timing belt" would be more appropriate.

Originally posted by MondeoST24:
Here in Oz we get 5W50 Mobil 1 - trying to get anything else is like finding hen's teeth! I take it you guys don't get that viscosity range in the States? My only option was to buy 0W40 Mobil 1 and only direct from the distributor in a 20litre drum for nearly $300- not likely

After doing some research back when I bought the Mondeo new I decided it wasn't a wise decision to use the 5W50 and have changed to another brand of fully synthetic oil.

While I agree oil is important, I've had two engines self destruct on me from timing belts snapping prematurely (no, not Duratecs). So while it is great to use the best oil you can it is sometimes more prudent to spend money in other areas on preventative maintenance!

In the case of the Duratec maybe substituting "water pump" for "timing belt" would be more appropriate.

Yep, no matter what the marque, it seems every car has an Achilles Heel ... For example, the Osborne-like family of computers on the mega-dollar 2003 7-Series BMW's.

I'll never understand why ANYONE buys a car in its first production year.

In the USA, Amsoil (the best synlubes on the planet IMHO) has the most comprehensive line of lubricants -- engine and otherwise -- I know of. But, since the Mobil 1 5w-50 is a multi-vis, that should cover you under just about any condition -- assuming you don't spend too much time tooling around the Outback in the summer, where that 50 weight might kick in.

Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
I live in way south san jose....about 10 min form mogan hill.... and last summer i pulled a few 100 degree days ( I heard wrong) and it sould like a wether girl said it was 105....so thats where o got it form....n-e way...it looks like the oil pan too....I saw (earlier today) that the oil pan did hace a little oil build up around the seal...and it look like a very slow drip....i hope your right...it seems so much easier to change than the Crank seal...I'll do the Oil pan first too.

Roz

OK, just wanted to make sure our current environmental policies or lack thereof hadn't totally wigged the climate of one my favorite regions in the USA.

And, yah, the pan gasket is a lot easier to fix than the crank seal. Do what you said you're going to do and get take care of that first (making sure you get a redesigned, upgraded part like the one I got) and see if the stink goes away.

Originally posted by Drumbo:
But, since the Mobil 1 5w-50 is a multi-vis, that should cover you under just about any condition -- assuming you don't spend too much time tooling around the Outback in the summer, where that 50 weight might kick in.

The highest it gets where I live is mid 40 degrees Celcius, and then only rarely. High 30's in summer is common. In winter 0 degrees first thing in the morning sometimes occurs.

The point with the Duratec though is it is designed to run on 5W30 for all of these temperatures. A 5W50 oil will be thicker than the engine is designed to run, then you run the risk of the oil not circulating quick enough throughout the engine.

Originally posted by MondeoST24:

Originally posted by Drumbo:
But, since the Mobil 1 5w-50 is a multi-vis, that should cover you under just about any condition -- assuming you don't spend too much time tooling around the Outback in the summer, where that 50 weight might kick in.

The highest it gets where I live is mid 40 degrees Celcius, and then only rarely. High 30's in summer is common. In winter 0 degrees first thing in the morning sometimes occurs.

The point with the Duratec though is it is designed to run on 5W30 for all of these temperatures. A 5W50 oil will be thicker than the engine is designed to run, then you run the risk of the oil not circulating quick enough throughout the engine.

I think that would be more of a concern with a straight-50 weight. A multi-vis behaves as its name implies: its viscosity changes with the engine's operating temperature; it doesn't necessarily attain the properties of a 50-weight every time out.

But this is general information, only. Whether your driving style, ambient conditions and the characterictics of your engine would cause the 5w-50 to attain a viscosity higher than 30, I couldn't say. Maybe somebody else will, uh, weigh-in on this point.

From my understanding of it, when the 5W30 oil is up to operating temp it will have the thickness of a 30 weight oil; at the same temperature the 5W50 will have the thickness of a 50 weight oil. That's why I believe it could cause problems.

Okay Roz, you live near me (almost) as I live in Gilroy.. I have been running 0W30 AMSOIL in the duratech and have great results

.. proven by Blackwood lab testing on my oil after 15 months in the engine.. I also run this car at two of the three road courses in the SF Bay area.. Check out their web site and see how they rate on ware (top notch).. If you want some and can't find it.. send me an email..

Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:

Originally posted by PackRat:
The previous owner of my car used Mobil 1 15W50 because it's CF rated (for diesels) and meets the bare minimum standards set for VW diesel engines. Not the best choice but certainly not the worst. My engine survived it. I switched to a more diesel friendly oil, Shell Rotella T synthetic, 5W40.

See thats for a diesel engine....I appreciate the info, but im looking for the duratec engine not a diesel. Its kinda comparing apples and oranges....but thanks....0w-40 huh????

Sounds intresting considering that evey winter here in the bay area seems to get colder....like this past winter it was below freezing....25 to 30 degrees...almost every night..

Thanks guys,
roz

0 weights are usually used where winter temperatures hover near or below 0F for extended periods of time. Unless Mobil 1's 5w-30 cold-temperature flow rate is significantly different from the Amsoil 5w-30 I use, it will be fine at the temps you mentioned.

Originally posted by PackRat:

Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
I feel ya on that one....lol....some people do here too...but its understandable, oil is the life blood of the car, and if the blood is tainted...then well....we all know what can happen.

Roz

Well, there's a point when the love of your car becomes an obsession. Some of the TDI guys have gone beyond that, especially those who refuse to run anything less than a group 4 synthetic basestock oil and run oil analysis in an attempt to get the most miles out of their oil, post figures about the analysis that requires a chemistry degree to comprehend, rather than simply following the rather generous 10,000 mile factory specified oil change interval using a cheaper but more than satisfactory group 3 synthetic basestock and then calling those of us that do the latter "cheap" or criticize the purchase of a group 3 oil when it's more than $4 a quart.

Threads get locked over stuff like that.

Comprehsive oil analysis tells you a lot more than just the condition of your oil. It can tell you a great deal about the overall condition of the engine and tip you off to developing problems long before they become a functional issue. The earlier analogy to oil being the "blood" of the engine carries over to oil analysis -- it is to automotive diagnostics what taking a blood sample is to medical diagnostics.

Ease or difficulty of interpreting the data depends on the lab you use. Some make their reports more user-friendly than others.

Originally posted by PeterM:
Engine mfg's and oil Mfg's work together on oil specs. 5W-30 is specified for reasons related to fuel economy, valve train lubrication design (e.g see small oil channels), start-up lubrication performance, over all engine cooling.

Personally, having previously worked for Pennzoil and taken their lubrication training in Dallas, I would never go to a 15W-anything unless I had a deisel or the mfg spec'd it. 5W-50 Synthetic would Ok for extreme high temp operating environments. 0W-any thing would only make sense for seasonal application in extreme cold environments (like the arctic).

Hope this helps.

Amen to that!

And for all those to whom it applies, 15w weights are also used in many marine applications.

Originally posted by F111D F:
Finally got ahold of Mobil 1's european formula 0w-40, and not sure but I believe the European Duratec's are using it. Chain noise at start up cold or hot now less than a 1/4 second. Since Porsche designed this motor, it seems only right to treat it to the good stuff. 5 years old and at least 10 more to go.
No more snake oil Syntec after Castrol's engineers blew me off when I complained about all the lamp black in the valve-train area. (Two oil changes in 9 months) So much for their fallacious synthetic.
One thing to remember, It's your car, your money whatever makes you feel good do it. The oil companies are out to make a buck and since loyality has went by the way-side, buyer beware! Even if you had your own lab, time and money, you'd probalbly realize it's mostly "marketing hype".
While I can still afford Mobil 1 this is what I'm using in my Duratec and my John Deere.
Paul
98 Mystique LS
DMD

For what it's worth, startup chain-rattle in my '98 has never been longer than .25 sec with the Amsoil 5w-30 I run.

Originally posted by MondeoST24:
From my understanding of it, when the 5W30 oil is up to operating temp it will have the thickness of a 30 weight oil; at the same temperature the 5W50 will have the thickness of a 50 weight oil. That's why I believe it could cause problems.

I'll buy that. If a multi-vis attains its max viscosity at normal operating temps, you're right to steer clear of the 50 weight.

Originally posted by mr_froge:
Okay Roz, you live near me (almost) as I live in Gilroy.. I have been running 0W30 AMSOIL in the duratech and have great results .. proven by Blackwood lab testing on my oil after 15 months in the engine.. I also run this car at two of the three road courses in the SF Bay area.. Check out their web site and see how they rate on ware (top notch).. If you want some and can't find it.. send me an email..

What have I been telling you about Amsoil, Roz ... ?

I doubt that the 0w-30 is needed in the Bay Area climate ... But if it helps you to sleep better during the winter month your area gets, there would be no harm in running Amsoil 0w-30.

Originally posted by Rahmel:
whoa, i too have a question now. What's the deal w/ castrol sythetic?? i've been using that and only that, is Mobil better? If not, then what's the best, for summer, not winter, it's only driven in summer. I haven't had to change the oil in sooo long (i moved, it's at the other end of the state ) and i want to say that i used Castrol Synthetic 10w30, that may be wrong, i just changed my gf's oil and might be what i put in there, but anyway, what's scoop on oil as far as what i run and Mobil? Thanks guys

Lose the Castrol ASAP. Replace with Mobil 1 or -- better yet -- Amsoil. For background, search previous posts on this topic.

Thanks guys. you all have been really Helpful. Rich, i will let you know if i can;t find the oil. I appreciate everyones comments and help. If anyone still has anything else to say please fell free to continue the thread!

Right now im running 5W-30 Mobil one synthetic. And i think i will stay with this or the oil Rich reconmended

Roz

Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
Thanks guys. you all have been really Helpful. Rich, i will let you know if i can;t find the oil. I appreciate everyones comments and help. If anyone still has anything else to say please fell free to continue the thread!

Right now im running 5W-30 Mobil one synthetic. And i think i will stay with this or the oil Rich reconmended

Roz

FYI Roz, many established Amsoil dealers advertise in the yellow pages. You might want to check for a local dealer there or online at websites like www.switchboard.com/.

If all else fails, there's always www.amsoil.com/.

David, (MondeoST24)

Not quite. The first number (often with a "w" attached) i.e. 5w- or 10w- refers to the oils cold pour point. The oil's cold pour point is equal to a conventional single weight oil of the same number. This will affect how quickly the oil can be pumped through the engine. This would affect start-up lubrication at any temp, but especially at cold temps. It also will affect the parasitic drag of the oil pump at any temp.

The upper (-30 or -40) affects the shear strength of the oil, especially at higher temps. It does affect the pour point at all.

So, un summary: A 5-30 oil has the pour characteristics of 5 weight dino oil at all temps, and the shear characteristics of 30 weight dino oil at all temps.

Although the oil manufacturers guard their actual formulas carefully, I've been able to find some information that appears to be fairly reliable. Apparently, the Mobil 1 5-30 requires very few if any modifiers to have the pour point characteristics of a 5 weight oil and the shear strength of a 30 weight oil. The 5-50 requires more modifiers to enhance the shear strength up to 50. The problem with this is that the modifiers degrade faster than the base stock. So if you were measure a 5-50 oil when it was drained it may actually measure out at 5-40 or something like that. Also, the modifiers tend to only do one thing well, and displace the oil, so the more modifiers, the harder it is to get everything consistent lubrication and the more likely the oil will degrade. (Another reason NOT to use the snake oil additives. Ford specifically says DON�??T use them in the owners manual.)

Duratecs were designed for an oil with the flow characteristics of 5 weight oil. In very hot weather it probably wouldn't hurt it to have a heaver base stock, but there probably wouldn't be any advantage. And it was still in the car when there was cold snap, then there is the possibility of damage from the heavier oil.

Originally posted by revrev:
David, (MondeoST24)

Not quite. The first number (often with a "w" attached) i.e. 5w- or 10w- refers to the oils cold pour point. The oil's cold pour point is equal to a conventional single weight oil of the same number. This will affect how quickly the oil can be pumped through the engine. This would affect start-up lubrication at any temp, but especially at cold temps. It also will affect the parasitic drag of the oil pump at any temp.

The upper (-30 or -40) affects the shear strength of the oil, especially at higher temps. It does affect the pour point at all.

So, un summary: A 5-30 oil has the pour characteristics of 5 weight dino oil at all temps, and the shear characteristics of 30 weight dino oil at all temps.

Although the oil manufacturers guard their actual formulas carefully, I've been able to find some information that appears to be fairly reliable. Apparently, the Mobil 1 5-30 requires very few if any modifiers to have the pour point characteristics of a 5 weight oil and the shear strength of a 30 weight oil. The 5-50 requires more modifiers to enhance the shear strength up to 50. The problem with this is that the modifiers degrade faster than the base stock. So if you were measure a 5-50 oil when it was drained it may actually measure out at 5-40 or something like that. Also, the modifiers tend to only do one thing well, and displace the oil, so the more modifiers, the harder it is to get everything consistent lubrication and the more likely the oil will degrade. (Another reason NOT to use the snake oil additives. Ford specifically says DON�??T use them in the owners manual.)

Duratecs were designed for an oil with the flow characteristics of 5 weight oil. In very hot weather it probably wouldn't hurt it to have a heaver base stock, but there probably wouldn't be any advantage. And it was still in the car when there was cold snap, then there is the possibility of damage from the heavier oil.

Why did you edit -- remove -- the revealing performance data about dino and synth oils in your original post?

Originally posted by Drumbo:

Originally posted by revrev:
David, (MondeoST24)

Not quite. The first number (often with a "w" attached) i.e. 5w- or 10w- refers to the oils cold pour point. The oil's cold pour point is equal to a conventional single weight oil of the same number. This will affect how quickly the oil can be pumped through the engine. This would affect start-up lubrication at any temp, but especially at cold temps. It also will affect the parasitic drag of the oil pump at any temp.

The upper (-30 or -40) affects the shear strength of the oil, especially at higher temps. It does affect the pour point at all.

So, un summary: A 5-30 oil has the pour characteristics of 5 weight dino oil at all temps, and the shear characteristics of 30 weight dino oil at all temps.

Although the oil manufacturers guard their actual formulas carefully, I've been able to find some information that appears to be fairly reliable. Apparently, the Mobil 1 5-30 requires very few if any modifiers to have the pour point characteristics of a 5 weight oil and the shear strength of a 30 weight oil. The 5-50 requires more modifiers to enhance the shear strength up to 50. The problem with this is that the modifiers degrade faster than the base stock. So if you were measure a 5-50 oil when it was drained it may actually measure out at 5-40 or something like that. Also, the modifiers tend to only do one thing well, and displace the oil, so the more modifiers, the harder it is to get everything consistent lubrication and the more likely the oil will degrade. (Another reason NOT to use the snake oil additives. Ford specifically says DON�??T use them in the owners manual.)

Duratecs were designed for an oil with the flow characteristics of 5 weight oil. In very hot weather it probably wouldn't hurt it to have a heaver base stock, but there probably wouldn't be any advantage. And it was still in the car when there was cold snap, then there is the possibility of damage from the heavier oil.

Why did you edit -- remove -- the revealing performance data about dino and synth oils in your original post?

OK, I'll chalk-up the non-response as a "No Comment".

Gilroy, Morgan Hills Spent two weeks there in AUG. 95, you sure that those thick garlic clouds from Gilroy don't affect the life of motor oil? It took me months to get that odor out of my system. Jeeese

Paul
Wife and I loved those hills/lake areas and back roads east of Morgan Hill. That type of area was much more to our liking than the freeway/parking lots!

Ole army buddy from Hayward give us the Bay area tour, Monterey cannery Row and the ole Hippy area up by the Russian River. I could handle that area.
Paul

Drumbo,

All I did was added David's name to make it clear who I who I was responding to. After I looked at the thread there were several intervening posts. Probably should have corrected a few typo's while I was at it.

Richard

Originally posted by revrev:
Drumbo,

All I did was added David's name to make it clear who I who I was responding to. After I looked at the thread there were several intervening posts. Probably should have corrected a few typo's while I was at it.

Richard

Didn't you also have some numerical stats in the original? Or am I confusing your post with another?

Just a small up date on the oil leak.....turns out the place i got my oil cahge at put 15w 50 mobil one in my car instead of 5w 30.....I was pissed....The only way i caught it was by wathcing them put it in when i went back i told them to stop and i was taking my car to another shop...needless to say they were pissed but they let me go...so i canged it my self to 5w 30....turns out that oil leak has slowed down to a very small crawl...almost no burning smell.....looks like the higher pressure the large weight oil caused blew my rear crank seal...butnot bad enough to cause major concern right away.

Roz

Drumbo,

Quote:

Didn't you also have some numerical stats in the original? Or am I confusing your post with another?

Must of confused me with another post. I am writing from my work computer. (successfully avoiding being productive yet again

) Anyway, I don't have any of the bookmarks from my home computer. I have seen some hard data over the years, but I don't think I have ever posted any.

BTW, I read some interesting stuff this week about Mobil 1. In Europe, they say it is a go on extended drain intervals. They don't say that here. Seems that the way oil is classified in Europe requires extended drain intervals to get the highest ratings. Here in the US, it is not necessary, so Mobil doesn't say anything about it. The oil appears to be the same stuff. The only reason Mobil doesn't talk about extended intervals (like Amsoil does)is to encourage people to change their oil more often.

Because of the different oil ratings the average drain interval in Europe is about 10,000 miles. In the US its 5000 miles. Same oil. The difference is that in Europe the engine manufacturers control the specs. They want longer drain intervals to reduce maintainence costs on their cars. In the US the oil maunfacturers control the specs. They want short intervals so you will change your oil more often.

I had been using the extended drain intervals with Amsoil, but wasn't so sure with Mobil 1. I'm thinking I'm comfortable with 10K with the Mobil 1 now.

Richard

Originally posted by revrev:
Drumbo,

Quote:

Didn't you also have some numerical stats in the original? Or am I confusing your post with another?

Must of confused me with another post. I am writing from my work computer. (successfully avoiding being productive yet again ) Anyway, I don't have any of the bookmarks from my home computer. I have seen some hard data over the years, but I don't think I have ever posted any.

BTW, I read some interesting stuff this week about Mobil 1. In Europe, they say it is a go on extended drain intervals. They don't say that here. Seems that the way oil is classified in Europe requires extended drain intervals to get the highest ratings. Here in the US, it is not necessary, so Mobil doesn't say anything about it. The oil appears to be the same stuff. The only reason Mobil doesn't talk about extended intervals (like Amsoil does)is to encourage people to change their oil more often.

Because of the different oil ratings the average drain interval in Europe is about 10,000 miles. In the US its 5000 miles. Same oil. The difference is that in Europe the engine manufacturers control the specs. They want longer drain intervals to reduce maintainence costs on their cars. In the US the oil maunfacturers control the specs. They want short intervals so you will change your oil more often.

I had been using the extended drain intervals with Amsoil, but wasn't so sure with Mobil 1. I'm thinking I'm comfortable with 10K with the Mobil 1 now.

Richard

Very interesting. If Mobil 1 can actually handle extended drain in normally-aspirated engines, that would be good news.

Are you going to have the M1 analyzed when you dump it at 10K? That would give you -- us -- the answer.

I may, haven't decided yet.

Heres the website address for the article on drain intervals.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/lng_article/march_lng_new.pdf

Last year I did the one year thing on both my car and my wife's car ('00 Tracer with SOHC 2L). I used Amsoil's standard synthetic. Both cars went about 20K. Neither car dropped more than 1/2 quart of oil in that time. I think that's a measure of the oil's volatility as much as anything.

I haven't been as confident with Mobil 1 on the extended drain, because Mobil doesn't talk about it. I still don't think they are formulating for the very extended drain cycle that Amsoil does. I think that Amsoil really works hard on keeping the volatility low, Mobil has different priorities.

I was looking at some Amsoil stuff. With proper filtration, the drain interval the large Diesels are doing is mind-boggling. Just saw one where a guy has his oil analyzed regularly, and changes it as needed. Last change was 409,000 (yes, that's correct

) miles ago, and the oil still meets spec.

A few years ago I remember having a conversation I had with a Dr. friend who had just bought new car. (Honda-Isuzu SUV actually.) He noticed that the oil drain interval in the owners manual was much longer than the 3K he had been hearing all around. This guys pretty sharp. He graduated Cum Alude with a degree in engineering before deciding to go med school - at the Mayo clinic. I just asked him what benefit would Honda-Isuzu have in recommending a longer drain interval than necessary toprovide for maximum engine longevity? What benefit would there be for the oil manufacturers, and engine lube places, to recommend shorter than necessary intervals? So who is probably more accurate? For him the light went on immediately.

With garden variety dino lube, Ford recommends 5K.

Food for thought.
Richard

Originally posted by revrev:
I may, haven't decided yet.

Heres the website address for the article on drain intervals.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/lng_article/march_lng_new.pdf

Last year I did the one year thing on both my car and my wife's car ('00 Tracer with SOHC 2L). I used Amsoil's standard synthetic. Both cars went about 20K. Neither car dropped more than 1/2 quart of oil in that time. I think that's a measure of the oil's volatility as much as anything.

I haven't been as confident with Mobil 1 on the extended drain, because Mobil doesn't talk about it. I still don't think they are formulating for the very extended drain cycle that Amsoil does. I think that Amsoil really works hard on keeping the volatility low, Mobil has different priorities.

I was looking at some Amsoil stuff. With proper filtration, the drain interval the large Diesels are doing is mind-boggling. Just saw one where a guy has his oil analyzed regularly, and changes it as needed. Last change was 409,000 (yes, that's correct ) miles ago, and the oil still meets spec.

A few years ago I remember having a conversation I had with a Dr. friend who had just bought new car. (Honda-Isuzu SUV actually.) He noticed that the oil drain interval in the owners manual was much longer than the 3K he had been hearing all around. This guys pretty sharp. He graduated Cum Alude with a degree in engineering before deciding to go med school - at the Mayo clinic. I just asked him what benefit would Honda-Isuzu have in recommending a longer drain interval than necessary toprovide for maximum engine longevity? What benefit would there be for the oil manufacturers, and engine lube places, to recommend shorter than necessary intervals? So who is probably more accurate? For him the light went on immediately.

With garden variety dino lube, Ford recommends 5K.

Food for thought.
Richard

Food for thought indeed, Richard. As for me, you're "preachin' to the choir" ... Let's hope many other CEGers are paying attention to this thread.

RE: M1 oil anlysis at 10K -- as you've commited yourself to it this far, I'd say "Do it". Before I became 100% convinced that Amsoil did everything it claims it can do (this was 10-12 years ago), the lab I used was Cleveland Tech. Unfortunately, a quickie Google search under "oil analysis" does not find them ... But it does return a watershed of information on the subject.

If M1 is good for extended-drain, in a pinch, it would be an even more acceptable substitute for the Amsoil I run in my CSVT.

The majority of the eye-opening, Amsoil "large-diesel" numbers you're seeing are likely derived from long-haul truckers who have for years known about Amsoil's By-Pass oil filter -- the granddaddy of ultimate oil filtration units. Essentially, as long as Amsoil engine oil is used and the by-pass filter elements are changed according to spec, the oil supply does not have to be changed before 500,000 miles -- and the drain can and has been extended to well over 750,000 miles with no adverse effects.

These kind of numbers tend to boggle the minds of the uninitiated. But, a search of my prior posts on the subject of Amsoil will pretty much flesh-out my 15-year history with Amsoil lubes and the reasons why I endorse Amsoil's synlubes with no reservation whatsoever.

Hopefully, the link you posted will shed additional light on the topic for all who take the time to read it.

I've been thinking about adding the bypass filter to the 'tour. It looks to me that if I were to move the battery to the trunk, I could put the dual filter unit from Amsoil where the battery used to be. Also would mean that I could change the oil without getting oil all over the front manifold. I can't really see any other place to mount it in the engine bay with a duratec.

My wife is making noises about driving her Tracer another 100K or more. If that be the case, I will probably put one on the Tracer also. I think I can find a place for the filter easier in her car.

Originally posted by revrev:
I've been thinking about adding the bypass filter to the 'tour. It looks to me that if I were to move the battery to the trunk, I could put the dual filter unit from Amsoil where the battery used to be. Also would mean that I could change the oil without getting oil all over the front manifold. I can't really see any other place to mount it in the engine bay with a duratec.

My wife is making noises about driving her Tracer another 100K or more. If that be the case, I will probably put one on the Tracer also. I think I can find a place for the filter easier in her car.

Yeah, you've hit upon -- and possibly solved -- the one, itty-bitty problem about a by-pass filter install into the Duratec engine compartment: the itty-bitty amount of available room in the engine compartment to add the amazing-but-bulky damn thing.

Good thing for everyone watching this thread that you're so damn inventive, determined ... and married! Like has often been said, behind every savvy man, there's an equally savvy woman who knows her girlie car has a more roomy engine compartment just begging for an easy mod or two ...

Say "Amen", somebody!

Make sure you negotiate the quid-pro-quo in such a way that, in exchange for extending the lifespan of her (test) car (you sly dog) by installing the by-pass, she will buy you a digital camera, so you can photo-document your creative by-pass installations for the benefit of the rest of us!

Interesting......

I run AMS OIL in my car. I do the change the oil once a year thing since I only drive about 10k miles per year.

I agree with you on the volitility of AMS OIL. The oil thats in my car now has about 8k on it and the oil is still on the same spot on the dip stick now as it was when I put the oil in.

I'm a strong believer in AMS OIL products. Although I've met alot of criticism about it. I've read their reports about internal testing on their products and read some of the testimonials.

My last viehicle, '95 F-150, I decided to drain the transmission and rear end oil to re-fill with AMS OIL. ATF in the manual transmission and their Series 2000 80W-90 in the rear end. I drove it about 100 miles a day at the time and I immediately noticed an increase in fuel economy after putting AMS OIL in the drivetrain. About an average of 1MPG increase over the factory fill lubricants.

Originally posted by JSmith:
Interesting......

I run AMS OIL in my car. I do the change the oil once a year thing since I only drive about 10k miles per year.

I agree with you on the volitility of AMS OIL. The oil thats in my car now has about 8k on it and the oil is still on the same spot on the dip stick now as it was when I put the oil in.

I'm a strong believer in AMS OIL products. Although I've met alot of criticism about it. I've read their reports about internal testing on their products and read some of the testimonials.

My last viehicle, '95 F-150, I decided to drain the transmission and rear end oil to re-fill with AMS OIL. ATF in the manual transmission and their Series 2000 80W-90 in the rear end. I drove it about 100 miles a day at the time and I immediately noticed an increase in fuel economy after putting AMS OIL in the drivetrain. About an average of 1MPG increase over the factory fill lubricants.

Needless to say, re: Amsoil, we're as close as two peas in a pod.

My advice to you is, keep doing exactly what you're doing. I've been running Amsoil synlubes in the powertrains of my cars long enough to know they are -- without question -- top dog.

Originally posted by revrev:
I've been thinking about adding the bypass filter to the 'tour. It looks to me that if I were to move the battery to the trunk, I could put the dual filter unit from Amsoil where the battery used to be. Also would mean that I could change the oil without getting oil all over the front manifold. I can't really see any other place to mount it in the engine bay with a duratec.

My wife is making noises about driving her Tracer another 100K or more. If that be the case, I will probably put one on the Tracer also. I think I can find a place for the filter easier in her car.

This is also not very applicable for people that want to supercharge there car....The supercharger goes right where the battery is....Sucks don't it.

Roz

Originally posted by revrev:
if I were to move the battery to the trunk, I could put the dual filter unit from Amsoil where the battery used to be. I can't really see any other place to mount it in the engine bay with a duratec.

with the remote mounted filter you could always fabricate a set of hoses to carry the oil to the filter unit mounted where ever you like. You could put it in the trunk.