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What I'm wondering is, I'd want to do my own oil change now but the thing that stops be is that it is actually cheaper to give my mechanic $20 cash to do the oil lube and filter. I mean the oil he puts in is just generic 5w30 and a generic filter but hey for $20 he does the labour. Now If I were to do it, I think I'd lose money. If i put in the higher mileage oil, I'm looking at about $18 plus another $4 for the extra 1L. On top of that I'm out about $4-7 for the oil filter which comes up to $26-$30. A net loss of $10 per oil change, I know it's counting pennies, but as a student and with rising tuitions I need the extra cash. Now generic oil (still meets standards) is asbout $10 + the filter which leaves me saving $5 every oil change, or in my driving scenario about $5 bucks every 2 months or $60 a year. What should I do? is there a recommendation you guys can make on this topic?
Dino oil is fine if you plan to change it every 3K miles/3 months. If you have someone else change the oil, you MUST check the oil level and oil filter for leaks immediately after that. There have been too many instances of CEGers experiencing not enough oil being put in or leaks by the oil filter after an oil and filter change by "trusted" mechanics.
ah no don't worry about that, I got the oil pan changed and a new gasket. Made sure, also had an oil change. Is there any BENEFIT to using Higher Mileage formula from Quakerstate, mobil or Castrol. I mean am I going to NOTICE ANYTHING in terms of power, performance, fuel economy (the big 3, although the first two are pretty much the same).
You misunderstood me. I meant, sometimes, they do not put enough oil and, sometimes, they do not tighten the oil filter enough (and it leaks there).

As for the higher mileage oil for performance and power, I'll let those who have more experience with those answer. I have a stock Duratec and have not used "high mileage" synthetic oil.

Ford changed the specs recently to 5W-20 for fuel economy improvement (how noticeable, I don't know). I stayed with 5W-30.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=1228688&Forum=v6maint&Words=5w-20&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=3months&Main=1228662&Search=true#Post1228688
my car has had nothing but mobil 1 in it since it was new....12 year and 180K miles ago. Compression is extreamly good in it still. I just got a leak in the oil pan gasket, but that isn't the oils fault. I did just switch to AmsOil, the good 25K mile or one year interval stuff. If you want to save money get that stuff. $5.35 a quart and get a filter that lasts 12K miles for another $10. Costs $45ish but then you don't have to worry too much for a year....besides doing the filter.
thank you for your help guys. About the 5w20, it only improves fuel economy maybe... 0.5% - 5% max. I use it in my MDX beacuse it's a requirement since 2001 to report BETTER fuel economy numbers, especially in V6s and in SUVs.

For the other point, maybe I'm old fashioned, but I'd like to change the oil every 3000miles or 5000KM simply because that's how I've always been doing it . My dad's car has about 540,000KM on it, so about 325,000 miles on it and he does just the regular oil changes, and the other things that need to be changed over time. I'm trying to drive my car into the ground and have it as long as possible. Only reason I care so much is well this is my first car and I want it to last me a while.

Any hoo, there was a higher mileage dino oil I was thinking of trying, it's by Castrol. It's a 5w20, and as soon I've driven my 5k, im going to change that in. I'm definitely going ot
Originally posted by m4gician:
but I'd like to change the oil every 3000miles or 5000KM simply because that's how I've always been doing it




The absolute worst (but perhaps most often used) excuse for doing anything.

It sounds like you put quite a few miles on per year. The first thing you can do to save money is follow the manufacturer's recommended service interval of 5000 miles. In an 18k mile year, that's 3.6 oil changes vs 6, or a $48 savings/year if you have your mechanic do it.

It also sounds like you put enough miles on per year to benefit from the added protection and extended drain interval of Amsoil.

How many miles on your car?
uh lets see I just went over 250,000KM the other day so... about 150,000 miles. If you believe I'll benefit I will do it. In about Dec 03, I acquired my old mystique. So in about 20 months or so I've put on about 60,000 miles. Most of them highway obviously. So well here's what I'm going to do then, Higher mileage 5w20 with a high endurance oil filter, that sounds like a good economical investment. I'll get the durable oil that lasts as long as you say, about 5,000 miles.
Originally posted by m4gician:
uh lets see I just went over 250,000KM the other day so... about 150,000 miles. If you believe I'll benefit I will do it. In about Dec 03, I acquired my old mystique. So in about 20 months or so I've put on about 60,000 miles. Most of them highway obviously. So well here's what I'm going to do then, Higher mileage 5w20 with a high endurance oil filter, that sounds like a good economical investment. I'll get the durable oil that lasts as long as you say, about 5,000 miles.




What I'm saying is this:

Open your mind. Then do some research. Then choose a solution that meets your goals which, if I read correctly, are 1) lower maintenance costs, and 2) get another 150k miles (or more) out of your engine.

I'm suggesting that based on your annual mileage, the Amsoil could represent a good value to you. The oil is designed to run 25,000 miles or one year between changes. You may have to change your filter after 6 months, I'm not sure. But rather than "generic oil" and "some generic filter" that might meet half of your requirements, an extended drain synthetic like Amsoil, with high quality oil and air filtration, can meet both of them.

And believe it or not, I'm not an "Amsoil rep." I'm not even a user. I put low miles on my car every year, so the 25,000 mile interval doesn't really pay off for me. So, I use Mobil 1 (another synthetic) every 5,000, and that's with what could be considered a severe duty cycle. I have the oil analysis to prove that my engine is protected just fine with this arrangement. However, that would not be the cheapest solution for you.





I'd be wary about using Amsoil for 1 whole year/25,000 miles.

In this oil life study Amsoil changed from 5w30 to 15w40 after 14,000 miles!! Mobil 1 lasted 18,000 miles with no viscosity change.
Thanks for the input, i'll go with 5w20 synthetic from Mobil 1 or Quaker state. ANd yes those are my goals, but I would switch them around juts because I think I'd get more mileage first before I start saving money. By the time I finish my degree it'll be time to buy myself a new car, so cheers! Thanks for the input btw, it's really much appreciated.
Originally posted by Bridge:
I'd be wary about using Amsoil for 1 whole year/25,000 miles.




I wouldn't worry at all, in fact I know a few cars with more than 25,000 miles on Amsoil.
Originally posted by iso50:
Originally posted by Bridge:
I'd be wary about using Amsoil for 1 whole year/25,000 miles.




I wouldn't worry at all, in fact I know a few cars with more than 25,000 miles on Amsoil.




Awesome... I've heard of people leaving their oil so long they have rusty oil filters

Look at the facts in the link above.... If Ford engineered the Duratec to run on 15w40 you'd put it in at mile 0, not wait 14K for Amsoil to change viscosity.
Originally posted by Bridge:
Originally posted by iso50:
Originally posted by Bridge:
I'd be wary about using Amsoil for 1 whole year/25,000 miles.




I wouldn't worry at all, in fact I know a few cars with more than 25,000 miles on Amsoil.




Awesome... I've heard of people leaving their oil so long they have rusty oil filters

Look at the facts in the link above.... If Ford engineered the Duratec to run on 15w40 you'd put it in at mile 0, not wait 14K for Amsoil to change viscosity.




I have also heard that some people drive their cars with out oil in it at all, granted they don't get far...but what is your point on that.
Originally posted by Bridge:
Originally posted by iso50:
Originally posted by Bridge:
I'd be wary about using Amsoil for 1 whole year/25,000 miles.




I wouldn't worry at all, in fact I know a few cars with more than 25,000 miles on Amsoil.




Awesome... I've heard of people leaving their oil so long they have rusty oil filters




Well you have to use good filters, like tha Amsoil EaO line.

If you look at that test, you'll see they didn't test Amsoil and Mobil 1 the same way. The didn't change the oil filter on the Amsoil test, yet they did on the Mobil 1 test. The test is quite old, and Amsoil doesn't use the same filters anymore.

In fact, the first time I read the test, I emailed the people that did the test and they liked Amsoil a whole lot. I'm not sure if the email link is still up or not.

Originally posted by elraido:

I have also heard that some people drive their cars with out oil in it at all, granted they don't get far...but what is your point on that.




This makes no sense


Originally posted by iso50:
Originally posted by Bridge:
Originally posted by iso50:
Originally posted by Bridge:
I'd be wary about using Amsoil for 1 whole year/25,000 miles.




I wouldn't worry at all, in fact I know a few cars with more than 25,000 miles on Amsoil.




Awesome... I've heard of people leaving their oil so long they have rusty oil filters




If you look at that test, you'll see they didn't test Amsoil and Mobil 1 the same way. The didn't change the oil filter on the Amsoil test, yet they did on the Mobil 1 test. The test is quite old, and Amsoil doesn't use the same filters anymore.






That is true about the filters, but I can't see it changing the viscosity result.
Well, mine went over 190,000 miles with very little wear on regular 5w30 dino Valvoline with 3,000 mile oil changes.
Originally posted by ZoomZoom Diva:
Well, mine went over 190,000 miles with very little wear on regular 5w30 dino Valvoline with 3,000 mile oil changes.




That's all you got out of it, wow!
Originally posted by iso50:
Originally posted by ZoomZoom Diva:
Well, mine went over 190,000 miles with very little wear on regular 5w30 dino Valvoline with 3,000 mile oil changes.




That's all you got out of it, wow!




What are you trying to say? That's bad? I'm just going to put Wal-mart tech2000 5w20 in from now on. That combined with a Fram or K&N Filter.
You do know that fram is one of the worst filters out ther. Motocraft filters have been proven to be extreamly effective with these cars...and they are cheap to boot.
Originally posted by ZoomZoom Diva:
Well, mine went over 190,000 miles with very little wear on regular 5w30 dino Valvoline with 3,000 mile oil changes.




Undoubtedly. But think of the time, money, and waste oil you could have saved by following a more reasonable change interval.

Your way (Grandpa did it, and the corner quick-lube guys recommend it): 63 oil changes, 79 gallons of used oil, and assuming 30 minutes/change, almost 32 hours.

My way (factory recommended service interval): 38 oil changes, 48 gallons, and 19 hours, and likely with results just as good (assuming you don't actually need the severe duty maintenance schedule that you implemented.)

Switching to an extended-drain oil may or may not save you money, depending on how much you drive in a year. It's more expensive per oil change, but can save you money in the long run.
Originally posted by m4gician:


I'm just going to put Wal-mart tech2000 5w20 in from now on. That combined with a Fram or K&N Filter.




I don't know anything about Wal-Mart oil. I might use it in my lawnmower in a pinch.

Fram filters are cheap but they suck. ($2-$3?)

K&N filters are expensive but they rock. ($10-$12)

Why not split the difference? Get a Motorcraft filter ($4-$5), which actually filters well for not much more than a Fram?
Originally posted by m4gician:
Originally posted by iso50:
Originally posted by ZoomZoom Diva:
Well, mine went over 190,000 miles with very little wear on regular 5w30 dino Valvoline with 3,000 mile oil changes.




That's all you got out of it, wow!




What are you trying to say? That's bad? I'm just going to put Wal-mart tech2000 5w20 in from now on. That combined with a Fram or K&N Filter.




What your doing, not the best. Fram are one of the worst filters out there, and I can't imagine Wal-Mart oil being very good.
Originally posted by RogerB:
Originally posted by m4gician:


I'm just going to put Wal-mart tech2000 5w20 in from now on. That combined with a Fram or K&N Filter.




I don't know anything about Wal-Mart oil. I might use it in my lawnmower in a pinch.

Fram filters are cheap but they suck. ($2-$3?)

K&N filters are expensive but they rock. ($10-$12)

Why not split the difference? Get a Motorcraft filter ($4-$5), which actually filters well for not much more than a Fram?




idk why everyone bashes fram. maybe they're the "worst filters out there", but for me it's a SERIOUS PITA to go somewhere that stocks something else. I have a walmart about a mile from my house, vs. 10+ miles to the nearest pepboys, and about as far/further to advance auto. I have 187 on the clock, and it seems like my motor's the only healthy thing on my car (well, that hasn't been replaced at least). if you do regular oil changes, I don't see any problem with using fram. it's given me no problems. I do use the high mileage one now, but it's still fram.
Originally posted by platinum_drew:
Originally posted by RogerB:
Originally posted by m4gician:


I'm just going to put Wal-mart tech2000 5w20 in from now on. That combined with a Fram or K&N Filter.




I don't know anything about Wal-Mart oil. I might use it in my lawnmower in a pinch.

Fram filters are cheap but they suck. ($2-$3?)

K&N filters are expensive but they rock. ($10-$12)

Why not split the difference? Get a Motorcraft filter ($4-$5), which actually filters well for not much more than a Fram?




idk why everyone bashes fram. maybe they're the "worst filters out there", but for me it's a SERIOUS PITA to go somewhere that stocks something else. I have a walmart about a mile from my house, vs. 10+ miles to the nearest pepboys, and about as far/further to advance auto. I have 187 on the clock, and it seems like my motor's the only healthy thing on my car (well, that hasn't been replaced at least). if you do regular oil changes, I don't see any problem with using fram. it's given me no problems. I do use the high mileage one now, but it's still fram.




Not all Fram's are the same. I've heard that their higher end filters are OK. FWIW, my local Wal-Mart also carries Motorcraft, now, which is my personal preference. I also get the 5-Quart jugs of Mobil 1 there.

The low-end Frams appear to be poorly constructed internally. That's why get bashed.
Originally posted by iso50:
What your doing, not the best. Fram are one of the worst filters out there, and I can't imagine Wal-Mart oil being very good.




I definitely agree about the Fram oil filters. Their oil filters are notoriously bad. However, other application filters by fram are fine.

Though, I do not agree w/your comment on Walmart's Supertech oil. I agree it is more than likely a cheap grade oil, however it does meet SAE standards. Furthermore, I believe it is made by Warren Distribution. I believe these guys also make Pennzoil. Anyways, if you use a good filter (Motorcraft/Puralator, and even K&N, though you probably wouldn't buy this filter and be using Supertech!), and change the oil rather frequently, it's fine. I did a little research before I started using this oil in my mom's car. We've been running it for a while. Though, I'm constantly switching, since I ran into a free 5 qts Max Life promotion not too long ago. All in all, the car works fine. (My mom drives a 98 SE tour, and she drives even more aggresively than I do!).

Furthermore, I've been using their ATX fluid in both my car and my mom's w/o any issues. Really cheap stuff in comparison to the name-brand. The only reoccuring problem w/Supertech dino oil from my research was that they are constantly changing their supplier. Older Supertech used to be QS. Anyways, it's not such a bad option if you're on a budget, and are willing to be persistant about your oil change regimen.
I thought the wal-mart oil was Tech2000? I was planning on buying these oils, tell me what you think

Tech2000 5w20 (wal-mart house brand)

Formula 1 with synthethic belnd 5w20 ($2 more but it's Canadian Tire house brand)

Castrol GTX 5w20 ($4 than wal-mart house brand)

QUaker State PEAK PERFORMANCE 5w20 (comes with a free oil filter by Quaker state).

Quaker state HIGHER MILEAGE FORMULA "specially formulated for higher mileage engines to prevent both viscosity and thermal breakdown"

Any ideas? Are any of those rated for more than the recommended 5000km (3000miles) interval? Is there a filter as durable and better
I think Supertech and Tech2000 are the same thing. It's in the blue plastic bottles.

Dude, if you really need to save money at all costs, then get the 5qt jug of Tech2000 and another qt, should run about $9 with tax, plus a motorcraft filter, $4 w/tax. $13 out of the door/3k miles.

If you want more assurance, buy the next cheapest name-brand oil, Quaker STate. It'll be like $3/4 more/oil change interval=$17/change.

All of these are 3k intervals, more than 3k, is into the synthetics. For example, on my car I use M1= $25 oil + 4 Motorcraft filter + tax=$30/change. However, I change my oil every 6k miles. Hence, why a lot of people use synthetic, it's better for your engine (if younger-older engines can deteriorate crude holding seals in place, thus forming leaks), it's almost the same cost/oil ratio, and it involves less frequent changes, hence a win, win situation.
It doesn't seem logical at the store, but in the long-run as Roger pointed it out, it's pretty practical.

In regards, to your deals w/QS filters and whatnot, I believe most of those are Fram filters, so I would avoid that. You can always ask them to double-check, but most of the oil change guys aren't very reliable sources of info. Secondly, from my Canadian friends, I've heard CT isn't the most reliable source for car work in Canada.

Good luck man, whatever you decide. Hey, one thing, I checked your profile, and noticed your last name is Prakash. Are you Indian by chance?
Originally posted by ancientsanskrit:
I think Supertech and Tech2000 are the same thing. It's in the blue plastic bottles.

Dude, if you really need to save money at all costs, then get the 5qt jug of Tech2000 and another qt, should run about $9 with tax, plus a motorcraft filter, $4 w/tax. $13 out of the door/3k miles.

If you want more assurance, buy the next cheapest name-brand oil, Quaker STate. It'll be like $3/4 more/oil change interval=$17/change.

All of these are 3k intervals, more than 3k, is into the synthetics. For example, on my car I use M1= $25 oil + 4 Motorcraft filter + tax=$30/change. However, I change my oil every 6k miles. Hence, why a lot of people use synthetic, it's better for your engine (if younger-older engines can deteriorate crude holding seals in place, thus forming leaks), it's almost the same cost/oil ratio, and it involves less frequent changes, hence a win, win situation.
It doesn't seem logical at the store, but in the long-run as Roger pointed it out, it's pretty practical.

In regards, to your deals w/QS filters and whatnot, I believe most of those are Fram filters, so I would avoid that. You can always ask them to double-check, but most of the oil change guys aren't very reliable sources of info. Secondly, from my Canadian friends, I've heard CT isn't the most reliable source for car work in Canada.

Good luck man, whatever you decide. Hey, one thing, I checked your profile, and noticed your last name is Prakash. Are you Indian by chance?





ji, jess jess I am

So your advice in the long run would be to pick up some Mobil1 5w20, with a K&N filter? ANd not worry about either for about 6k miles or 10k kms. ? If that's what makes sense, I'd go for it. Just trying to gauge what will be better for my car in the long run. I want this engine to be able to run well not just run. After having changed the tranny (why... ) and the Oil pan (mother fu****). Would I still benefit any from using Synthetic now at 250,000 KM ? If so I'll have that done for my next oil change, btw i'm changing the oil myself and the only thing I have to work out besides the exact oil and filter, is how to transport the old oil an d filter to a disposal site. And yes CT is a big overpriced and unreliable place for oil and things like that, I need someone there who has a discount or a Wal-mart discount or some discount place for car enthusiasts, it's just i'm not really plugged into those kind of things now since I just started making ceg my homepage.
the older an engine gets, the more it should have a synthetic oil in it.
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