1-2 "Bang" shift is GONE!!!

Originally posted by Chris Hightower:
I told you it would fix it Trevor just did it before me. Great job, and awesome write-up man!

The part was $15, it took 15 minutes MAX to do ... I had nothing to loose by trying it

i'm still confused, is the new one weaker, yet it's better??? in that article unisys posted they used the new one on a 96 626 and it didn't work good and they say to find a good used older model TSS. so which is it? maybe good for newer cd4e's, not good for 95 and 96?

Originally posted by New Style TSS article above:

With the new design sensor, air gap and geartrain endplay become critical for sensor output. Keep this in mind if you're unable to locate the previous design sensor. The maximum air gap shouldn't exceed.030". Notice that the previous design sensor had an exposed pole piece, the new design sensor doesn't. The exposed pole piece gave the magnetic field more exposure to the tab, which increased signal strength. The previous design sensor had a black plastic body with a metal holddown bracket. It measured about 180 ohms at 750 E
You can identify the new design sensor (PFN XS7Z-7MI01-KA) by its white plastic body and integrated mounting tab. It measures about 800 ohms at 750 E. Currently, it is the only replacement sensor offered by Ford.

It seems to be a problem mainly in older vehicles where some of the aforementioned factors come into play. One of my test cars was an unmolested 2000 Contour, which had no problem with the new design sensor.

If you're having persistent TCC or ratio error codes, take a look under the front left fender. If you see the telltale white plastic sensor, see if you can get a hold of one of the following part numbers: F7RZ-7MI01-AA or F3RZ7MI01-A. Use caution, as Ford has superceded these part numbers to the new design, so make certain your dealer or parts supplier has the actual part number. You might get lucky and your local dealer or parts supplier could still have the previous design sensor in stock. Otherwise, the best recommendation is to find a good used sensor.

Kermit, from this article, it states that gear play (slop in the gears in other words) and air gap are to blame for problems on the older vehicles. It is a hit and miss sort of thing. It does not seem to matter which year your CD4E is, but how much wear and tear there is on it. It the aformentioned 626 in the article, the problems came about because the gears in the car had either too much slack in the gears or gap of the sensor and the ribs where too far apart (the whole air gap thing). That is basically what it is saying about using this new style sensor on an older tranny.

I don't want to come off to everyone as trying shoot this down or anything. I am not, I just wanted to point out this article. No Kermit, I know that is not what you are trying to do. Don't worry.

This article just points out a lot of good points that will come up in the future as more and more of us need to change our TSS. Also bear in mind that this is the only version of the sensor avaliable. Even all the older model CD4E's part numbers have been changed over to this new one.

Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You

If you were a woman I'd kiss you. Hell, I could be convinced to do it anyways

I thought I'd never get anyone to tell me how to fix this annoying (and it's gotta be horribly damaging to the tranny) problem.

I'd run out and do it right now except all the dealerships are closed. But this is getting done ASAP!

Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You

Hey I have this same problem and when I saw this post I jumped for joy also. If some how you install this sensor wrong can it become a 3000 dollar problem? (another words see ya lata tranny)

Gimme some more info on this! please!

Don't worry about the install... there is only one way it will go in. I can see how you might damage the sensor if you like beat the crap out of it, but other then that... you will be fine. If you do have any problems after the install, just let us know and we will help out.

Sigma, there for a second I thought you was talking to me and I was going to reply that it was Fastcougars idea, so go kiss him, I see that I am safe.

See guys... There are some perps to not being the first to post about something!!

Yummy, yummy, yummy! Can this part be had at a local stealership as well?

That is the ONLY place to get it since it is an OEM part. Either at your local dealership or online at a Ford parts retailer like Gary Starr at Atascadero Ford or Bill Jenkins (not sure where he is now). It's $15 from Gary and $25 from the dealer ... the dealer may be somewhere between the 2 prices. It takes 15 minutes to do and cost is minimal ... try it and if it doesn't work, put back your old sensor. Be sure to save both the old sensor and the old retaining bolt as they are size matched ... the new bolt is longer because the new sensor flange is thicker.

If it did not fix the problem, why would you need to put the old sensor back in?

Thanks,
Jason

Quote:

If it did not fix the problem, why would you need to put the old sensor back in?

Because in some cars (and it's a rather random occurence) it can create more, and worse problems to have the new sensor rather than the old one.

Well ok, i'm going to go buy the part today from the local stealership.

Went to the dealership today myself, List price was $29.41 plus tax and it won't be in until tomorrow. Paid it anyways. I want this fixed ASAP.

Done! $24.29 @ dealership. Haven't driven it yet. I would like to add that it is a PITA to get it out, easiest way is to turn it back and forth while pulling toward you. Also when installing the new sensor, I rocked it back and forth while putting it in until I couldn't any longer, trying my best to keep it lined up. Then I took a flathead screwdriver and put it in between the black plastic connector and the bolt hole and tapped lightly with a hammer. Worked great. Well I'm off to test it out, I'll post thoughts and pics when I get back.

Has anyone with a 1995 tried this yet? I want to do this, but I still don't understand if I can or not.

Originally posted by fastcougar:
That is the ONLY place to get it since it is an OEM part. Either at your local dealership or online at a Ford parts retailer like Gary Starr at Atascadero Ford or Bill Jenkins (not sure where he is now). It's $15 from Gary and $25 from the dealer ... the dealer may be somewhere between the 2 prices. It takes 15 minutes to do and cost is minimal ... try it and if it doesn't work, put back your old sensor. Be sure to save both the old sensor and the old retaining bolt as they are size matched ... the new bolt is longer because the new sensor flange is thicker.

fpo.com has nothing on this part; even if I search for the word turbine. I'll go to the dealer if I have to, but if I can get it for cheaper at fpo.com I'd prefer that route. Can anyone find the part there?

Call ... their part finder is FOBAR!

1 (800) 549-2005

Gotcha... thanks!

Well, I picked up the part today, it was the right one. Even included a piece of paper inside that told mechanics that it was indeed the right part even if it looked different.

I'd like to install it, but I can't crack the damn lugs on my wheels no matter how hard I try. Anyone got any tricks?

spray some wd-40 on or take it to a tire shop, tell them to loosen them and then let you tighten them. they can be a PITA to get off when they use impact wrenches on them. Or just work out some until your strong enough to get them off, they will come off if you put enough force into it.

Quick Q:

Is it imperative to disconnect the battery cable?

Last time I did that, the system kinda shorted or something when I reconnected it, for some reason. Or at least it acted very very funny when I attempted to start it up again. As in, it didn't want to do anything at all. And it freaked me out that it was cracklin' and crap when I put it back on the post, but nothing was on in the car.

breaking your lugs can be a pain, but it is all about leverage! unless you have a big air compressor, impact wrenches will not work. goto home depot and buy a smaller pole that is strong (metal like) but big enough around as to where you can slide the pole over top of your T wrench or socket wrench and I guarantee it will make your life sooo much easier now, and in the future.

Jason

NOW! I have a problem, a BIG PROBLEM!

I tried getting the old TSS sensor out and it was being a pain in the a$$. so we tried to work it out, but the top half of the senor ripped off.

now just the cylnder part is stuck in the tranny!! what do i do, I can't get it out, i've tried alot of different methods, and quite frankly we are out of ideas. any help from you guys??? my baby is stuck on blocks!

Jason

Can you drill a hole in the center of it and thread a screw ?
Then you can grab the screw and use it to pull it out.

Yes I thought about doing that, we started drilling last night and it's nearly impossible getting through. The bit actually shot sparks out and was glowing red.

I stopped drilling because I do not want the cylnder to fall down behind that wall, I am not sure how large of a cavern is behind that. I also do not know if and when I will make it through the sensor. Because I could keep drilling without knowing past the sensor and in to the tranny.

What are your thoughts on that?

The piece was really lodged in there for some reason... we have been using wd40 and such to try to loosen it also.

It probably has a lot of rust around it, and that makes it hard to get it out.
Try grabbing the edges with a needle nose plier and wiggle it out slowly...

hey guys I have a new problem! I FINALLY got the stupid sensor out and installed the new one, and now my O/D light flashes! What does this mean? Somebody help me!

Jason

OD Light flashing means you have a Powertrain Code.
Get your code from the PCM and post it here...

Originally posted by sigma:
Quick Q:

Is it imperative to disconnect the battery cable?

Last time I did that, the system kinda shorted or something when I reconnected it, for some reason. Or at least it acted very very funny when I attempted to start it up again. As in, it didn't want to do anything at all. And it freaked me out that it was cracklin' and crap when I put it back on the post, but nothing was on in the car.

well after you disconnect the battery, your computer has to "relearn" things like the ideal idle speed and things like that. after 30 seconds of running at idle it should be fine.

I need to try this. For $15 you can't lose.

dang my stealership wanted $48.99 for it. I told them F that i can get it for like $15. i found it cheaper than that http://fordparts.com/cart/?pn=+1S7Z-7M101-KA

Well, I just installed it. Only cost me 3 busted knuckles from the cheesy-ass Ford scissor jack.

I got a little worried when mine required no twisting at all. It just fell right out. The same when I put the new one in.

But, so far, it seems to have made an incredible improvement. I took a quick spin around the block. I could make it do a hard drop, but it was significantly less jarring than before, and didn't do it almost every time from 1-2 like it used to.

Shifting was very smooth 1, 2, 3. And there even seemed to be a little bit better improvement in the shifting times, and sound (if that makes any sense). And, it may be my imagination, but it seemed to be a little quicker on the response.

Originally posted by sigma:
Well, I just installed it. Only cost me 3 busted knuckles from the cheesy-ass Ford scissor jack.

Watch for sales at Sears. I got a 3-ton jack with two stands for about $85, normally $120. Easier to use and waaaayyyyy safer.

I saw that one. Very nice. I just picked up Craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack with 2 stands for $27 at Sears 2 weeks ago. Nothing fancy, but sure beats the one supplied with the car.

anybody do it on a 96 'tour yet?

Originally posted by sigma:
Well, I just installed it. Only cost me 3 busted knuckles from the cheesy-ass Ford scissor jack.

You should be able to do this just by turning the wheels completely to the left.
If the sensor doesn't come out easily, then you have to remove the wheel to get closer to it.

Originally posted by 1fast95tour:
well after you disconnect the battery, your computer has to "relearn" things like the ideal idle speed and things like that. after 30 seconds of running at idle it should be fine.

It takes more than 30 seconds to relearn idle.

If you disconnect the PCM to reset the PCM Codes, and the idle quality,
you leave the PCM disconnected for a minimum of 5 minutes.

It takes 2 - 3 drive cycles to relearn idle quality.

To reset the Transmission Shift Patterns, you need to leave the PCM disconnected for a minimum of 20 minutes.

This takes a couple of days to relearn shift patterns, since the shift patterns are tailored
to the driving habits that the vehicle is subjected to.

Well, I was doing a brake inspection, and painting my calipers anyways, so I would've had to take the wheel off no matter.

And

what is a PCM, and how do I disconnect it?

Originally posted by sigma:
what is a PCM, and how do I disconnect it?

The PCM is the computer that runs your vehicle,
and causes your CEL to light.
It is called the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

It can be reset one of two ways...

Disconnecting the negative battery terminal,

or

Removing underhood fuse(s) #4, #11, and sometimes #9, which is a big fuse.
With the fuses removed, if you were to turn your ignition to the ON position,
your Check Engine Light, should NOT light up.

So I should disconnect the terminal for a good 20 minutes, then drive it a few times through my normal driving pattern?

Cool. I'll be sure to do that tomorrow. I've only driven maybe a mile or two since I put the part in earlier.

Originally posted by RoadRunner:

Originally posted by sigma:
what is a PCM, and how do I disconnect it?

The PCM is the computer that runs your vehicle,
and causes your CEL to light.
It is called the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

It can be reset one of two ways...

Disconnecting the negative battery terminal,

or

Removing underhood fuse(s) #4, #11, and sometimes #9, which is a big fuse.
With the fuses removed, if you were to turn your ignition to the ON position,
your Check Engine Light, should NOT light up.

It is fuses #6 and #11 for me.

I have a question, since I have the same problem, will I screw up my tranny if I didn't change it?? I really want to consider doing this. I know it's a smoother shift than before but how much of a difference??

Well, why would you not want to change it?

5 minutes of your time and $20 and your driving will be totally different.

And yes, the difference is huge. No more hard dropping into 2nd and all the gears change smooth as silk.

There's no other Mod except maybe a Supercharger that has as great an impact on noticeable driving, and it costs a whole $20.

ordered mine on the first, still waiting for it

Ok. My TSS (turbine speed sensor) is white from the tranny rebuild at 26K miles. I'm thinking that it went bad again. Should I still change it even though I have that hard shifting into 3rd?? I don't want to waste my money on a new one that might not solve the problem.

Ok guys my CEL came on, I ran the code and it came up as me needing to replace my TSS again... I know I installed it correctly. My questions are, could it be a bad part from the factory, if not (its a pretty simple design)....or could there be something else bad in before the sensor that is making this sensor go bad.

What else is there to replace?

My O/D is blinking also. I have harsh 2-3 up/down shift.

Since you just got it, I would take it back and exchange it for another sensor.

It *could* be bad.

I have a '96 V6 ATX, original trans, 87,000 miles, fluid changed around 50 or 60k. The only time I get a BANG 1-2 shift is when I run it to high revs in first gear and then circumstances dictate I back off the throttle and it does a part-throttle or no-throttle shift from high revs...POW, rock-hard. Doesn't happen at lower revs, doesn't happen if I keep my foot floored on the gas. Would this sensor fix this?

Originally posted by MFE:
I have a '96 V6 ATX, original trans, 87,000 miles, fluid changed around 50 or 60k. The only time I get a BANG 1-2 shift is when I run it to high revs in first gear and then circumstances dictate I back off the throttle and it does a part-throttle or no-throttle shift from high revs...POW, rock-hard. Doesn't happen at lower revs, doesn't happen if I keep my foot floored on the gas. Would this sensor fix this?

I think this was Chris Hightowers original reason for even posting the idea for changing out to the new sensor a month or so ago. The new style can also solve some other weird things that the tranny does and that is a very long story becasue it depends on what problems you are having.

But yes, the symptoms that you describe was the original intent of Hightowers thread about trying this new sensor.

Originally posted by unisys12:

Originally posted by MFE:
I have a '96 V6 ATX, original trans, 87,000 miles, fluid changed around 50 or 60k. The only time I get a BANG 1-2 shift is when I run it to high revs in first gear and then circumstances dictate I back off the throttle and it does a part-throttle or no-throttle shift from high revs...POW, rock-hard. Doesn't happen at lower revs, doesn't happen if I keep my foot floored on the gas. Would this sensor fix this?

I think this was Chris Hightowers original reason for even posting the idea for changing out to the new sensor a month or so ago. The new style can also solve some other weird things that the tranny does and that is a very long story becasue it depends on what problems you are having.

But yes, the symptoms that you describe was the original intent of Hightowers thread about trying this new sensor.

Ahh yes, and see that if I had actually read the link I wouldn't have had to ask. Thanks.

2 Things I have the Torque Convert Clutch Soleniod stuck in the off position and the TSS is apparently bad.

What comes first in the line of communication the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid or the TSS. I am thinking it is either a bad wire running to the TSS or a bad computer. My ground broke off my battery towards when this first started happening and I think I either fried the computer or there is a bad wire. If the TSS comes first I think that there is aproblem with the TSS and it is throwing the torque converter soleniod off.

TSS or Turbine Speed Sensor, works in conjuction with the Tachometer.
When the Torque Converter locks up, the computer compares Engine RPM to Turbine RPM.
If the two are equal, then the Torque Converter is locked 100%.
Since the Torque Converter can be modulated by the computer,
when the computer commands lock up and it doesn't get 100% lockup,
the readings between these two sensors will cause you to get these errors.
If the computer commands 67% lockup and the difference between
the RPMs isn't within 67% you get this code as well.

The Torque Converter Clutch solenoid will give you an OFF error
if the Torque Converter is commanded to LOCK and nothing happens at all.
If the Solenoid is shorted or open, you should get an out of range error.
If no error, then assume your wiring is good. and the solenoid is just not functioning.

The solenoid can be replaced without removing the tranny.
You may have to remove the Radiator to give you enough room
to take off the side pan from the CD4E.

when you are talking the bolt off which way do you spin it? towards the front or the back? \

Never mind

OK...just did this job yesterday and it tried to [censored] me in the ass. The sensor would NOT come out. I ended up breaking it in the attempt...and then breaking it....and breaking it....and breaking it...until all that was left was mostly either flush with the trans case or slightly recessed. I tried drilling it out...no dice, the metal's too hard. So I drilled around it in several places in an attempt to loosen it. Nope. Inserted some deck screws into the hole to try and pull it out by them. Nope. It would spin but not come out. But it would push in! I was afraid of pushing it too far and never getting it out. Needle-nose pliers wouldn't grip it. Finally I got them inserted as far as they'd go, clamped vice grips onto the needle-noses, and FINALLY it came out. So a 20-minute job turned into 2 hours. But it appears to have worked.

is this to fix my problem i got too?

my car accels in first, and when going into 2nd its like "vrooooooomm BLAM vrooooooom" it's weird to explain but it does feel like its slamming itself into 2nd

Sounds about right

retry, lol when its acceling from a stop and going into second is slams into 2nd, but 3rd and 4th is fine.

Yes. That is one of the things that this new sensor helps with. One of the things that makes this symptom much more pronounced is if you let off the gas just before the shift into second. Some have stated though, that this new sensor has helped with this.

So this is why my shift from 1st - 2nd is so soft...

With my DiabloSport chip I would get a fast shift.
After the tranny was replaced, I now get a soft shift
from 1st - 2nd, and a chirp from 2nd - 3rd.

Originally posted by RoadRunner:
So this is why my shift from 1st - 2nd is so soft...

LOL! You could always regress back to the old sensor.

Just Joking!

You got a chirp from a 2-3 shift? Holy cow! I guess I need to start doing some reading on the chips man. Wont be able to get one until the end of the year, but still.

I did the TSS swap last week & it cured all sorts of irritating behavior in my tranny. I had the bang shift & the rest of the driving range felt a little "loose" - just generally sloppy. Took me a whopping 3 minutes & I didn't have to remove the front wheel, just cut em hard left & parked it.

Now I get smooth shifts, the rest of the driving range is much tighter & more refined. I had originally installed a superchip to try to fix some of these problems & its effect was minimal, though it did change my shift points to a much better range.

(sorry, ramblin')

I copied the part number that was stated in the "How To" and used it to search on FordPartsOnline.com and this is the result was

List Price
$18.69
Electrical - Powertrain control - Vehicle speed sensor
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR, Escape, Trans 2001 - 2003

It says Escape and $18.69, in the "How To" it says it is $15 from that same site. So I was wondering, is that the correct replacement part for our cars?

At first glance, no that's not the right part description. It says it's a Vehicle Speed Sensor, when what you're looking for is a Turbine Speed Sensor. The two are completely different.

The funny thing is that when I tried searching a while ago it couldn't find anything with that part number. And even now, searching for the keywords "turbine" or "TSS" turns up nothing. I haven't purchased my new TSS yet, and I'm hoping that it won't turn into a huge wild goose chase with the dealer.

Go to fordparts.com type in 1S7Z-7M101-KA. I bought mine through them a few days ago for like $14, $20 with shipping.

I sucessfuly installed the TSS on my 1995 Mystique with 80k miles. Works perfectly. There was some concern about the new TSS on older contiques, but I can assure you it works with the old 95's just as well. Best $20 ever spent.

just ordered one of these myself

35$ Canadian

Originally posted by SKWAT:
Go to fordparts.com type in 1S7Z-7M101-KA. I bought mine through them a few days ago for like $14, $20 with shipping.

Thanks, just ordered mine.

I just got mine via Airborne Express today with the TSS and the new 16mm bolt. I'm going to go to my dad's house since he's got all the new shiny tools (and something better than my scissors jack) and put this in hopefully tonight. May have to wait until tomorrow to test it out, but I'll let you all know how well it improves it!

Of course, as someone else had said, it may take awhile for the PCM to "re-learn" with the new TSS, which may be 200 miles or more. But we'll see!

Ok, I got mine all done. I haven't drove it yet, but I just wanted to post before I go out and waste a half tank of gas

Well, the "cut the wheel to the left" trick worked wonders for me, saving me a trip to my parent's house. But the "It's only 15 minutes of work" thing didn't quite cut it....

I went outside, got everything ready and started pulling and twisting on that sucker. It finally started moving, so I twisted it back and forth some more. I spent a good 15 minutes and probably a layer of skin on my fingers/palms from grabbing the pliers, and it still didn't come out one bit. Then I heard the sound that we all dread...

SNAP

The plastic part where the wire clip connector goes on snapped right off. After I got over the "Oh S**T!" reaction, I realized I had a little nub to work with. And then I thought about that can of WD40 I had laying in my storage closet...which, unfortunately, was no where to be found.

I thought I was defeated, but then after looking in the trunk I had a bright idea. So what did yours truly use instead?

ARMOR ALL!

That stuff worked wonders! I figured if it's good enough to make me slip when I walk over a little bit of it, it's good enough to get this damn sensor out. Try as I might though, I only got it out half way, and then pretty much gave up. I went inside, cooked some dinner, and then went back out, my girlfriend just shaking her head (Women don't understand the battle between man and stubborn mechanical part). I sprayed the redneck version of WD40 on that sucker and in 5-10 minutes, it was free! The other one went on real quick too with no problem.

This is what I had left:

This is the part that snapped off; the white part is the harder plastic in the middle near the "elbow"

The only thing that concerned me was that I saw some gunky/dirty brownish stuff on the end of the old sensor when I took it out. Is that normal? Is there some kind of grease in there or something?

Ah well...time to put some more miles on the 'Tour!

Ok, here's my update:

I took it for a spin on the city streets, which I figured would be perfect for testing shifting from dead stop to 2nd gear, because my city has the worst traffic lights ever on a certain street (State Street). If you hit the lights at a certain time you'll go one block at a time and hit every red light.

Anyways, I noticed quickly that the shifting from 1st to 2nd was smoothed out considerably, and that coming down from 2nd to 1st was a little better. I also noticed that the vibration when stopped at a light was a lot less noticable; could this be from the TSS or the fact that I reset the PCM with the neg battery cable off for over an hour?

My bad experience with the old TSS aside, this was worth the $20 dollars or so

I still find it odd that everyone has such problems getting out the TSS, and mine just fell right out. Literally. I went to pull hard and there was no resistance at the slightest. And the end of it was perfectly clean too.

Kinda weird.

I have the white sensor so is it possible that they could have updated the part?? I know the original ones were black but mine it white from the tranny rebuild?? If I do change it and does not solve the prob, my tranny might be going. Am I right??

My brand-new rebuild also has a white sensor in it but has the 1-2 and reverse bang. So, I've got a replacement sensor coming and I will compare the two in appearance and try the new one to see what happens.

i absolutely love you people. this is my first post on this kick-ass forum. i have had this 1-2 bang crap for so damn long. i could never figure the problem out. as soon as i saw the title, i couldnt believe my eyes. i thought i was losing my tranny. i've been having a lot of problems with my 1996 mystique, and i wish i stumbled upon this forum earlier. keep up the great work and you'll hear from me again. im going to go buy that damn sensor first thing tomorrow. so many questions... i guess ill post them in the troubleshooting/general sections.

Thanks again!!!

the hardpart was taking the nut off. After that i was expecting it to come out hard, but it just sliped right out, all nice and clean, very clean.

I just tried to replace mine today. After waiting for some dealer in the states to send the part to my local Ford dealer by courier turtle, ifinally found a sunny day to do the swap. Got the bolt out no problem and the old sensor will spin freely as much as it can but I can't get any outward movement. Soaked it with WD40 for an hour and still no luck. Any suggestions????????

Originally posted by wallee:
I just tried to replace mine today. After waiting for some dealer in the states to send the part to my local Ford dealer by courier turtle, ifinally found a sunny day to do the swap. Got the bolt out no problem and the old sensor will spin freely as much as it can but I can't get any outward movement. Soaked it with WD40 for an hour and still no luck. Any suggestions????????

Yeah, do exactly what I did. Keep spraying that WD40 and twist and PULL on it. Don't pull extremely hard until you've got it at least half way out. By twisting it back and forth you're actually getting that WD40 further inside and lubricating the entire part. That's probably the only way you'll get it out. Remember, it took me over an hour, so don't feel bad. Just keep twisting it back and forth, keep it lubed up and give it a good tug every once in awhile. Let us know how it goes too!

I changed mine on Friday, man, does it run nice! It is as smooth as my Tribute now. Got it from Bill in Lost Wages. One of the little lock bars broke off but the other one will keep it there.

Originally posted by 2X95SEs:
I changed mine on Friday, man, does it run nice! It is as smooth as my Tribute now. Got it from Bill in Lost Wages. One of the little lock bars broke off but the other one will keep it there.

You did that to. Mine was extremely brital. OH well it does make a lot of difference in how my car shifts.

Yay, I finally got around to doing this fix to my Contour. It worked just like I said it would a LONG time ago

-Chris

Originally posted by Chris Hightower:
Yay, I finally got around to doing this fix to my Contour. It worked just like I said it would a LONG time ago

-Chris

Hello,

Will replacing the TSS cure recurring CEL P1744 codes?

I had the CEL P1744 and had the Torque Converter and Toque Converter Selenoid Modulator Valve(?) replaced. 13000 miles later (that's 1000 miles over the dealers repair warranty) I have the same problem.

I was wondering if the something as simple as replacing the TSS will fix the "1-2 Shift-Bang" that is being attributed to the P1744.

I'm not in the mood to shell out another $1000 Plus to have the whole thing replaced again.

Andy

Originally posted by Jeb Hoge:
My brand-new rebuild also has a white sensor in it but has the 1-2 and reverse bang. So, I've got a replacement sensor coming and I will compare the two in appearance and try the new one to see what happens.

Any update on this ?

The other link is a bit dated. Here's the new link:

HOW TO: End The ATX 1-2 Bang Shift (NECO Forums)

Is the 1-2 bang that is being addressed by this related in any way to a 1-2 bang during normal acceleration? Is it possible that the TSS changeout will fix that too? My trans has banged second ever since I've had it (it had >100k on it when I bought it) and it has gotten progressively worse. I'm in the throws of rebuilding a replacement for it now, but I'm wondering if this simple fix could help aleviate some of the problems. This is not the only problem with the trans. It has now stopped going into 4th gear.

All,
Reviving this thread to add a bit of useful information. After reading all these threads and trying to change my sensor, I ran into all the aforementioned problems of stuck sensor, breaking it into pieces and finding the replacement sensor to be a very tight fit.

The way the new sensor is made, you run a big risk of breaking the electrical connector if you pound on it with a hammer handle as shown in the photo. Trying to tap on just the edges causes the sensor to go caterwonky in the bore and stick even more.

The perfect solution turns out to be a 3/4 inch crows foot wrench. It fits the exposed flanges on the sensor like it was made for this job. The electrical connector is safely isolated in the center. Add a 12" extension (3/8 drive) and you have the ideal tool to pop that sensor into place by tapping on the extension drive. (I had a cheapie set from Harbor Freight)