MTX: Adding Fluid - CEG Archives

Just this. Can buy a funnel with a hose attached at the local parts store.

Don't know why the FAQ uses the word pump. Never realized that. It's the wrong info.

I use a pump, and it is a pain. If you can find a funnel with a hose and can figure out the access needed it would most definitely be better.

Originally posted by Tisby:
...However, all the pumps I find in the stores are made for wider-mouthed bottles like the Mobil 1 fluid. How do I get this stuff into the tranny? ...

I know I used a pump like this, I just cut the top of the bottle so that I could make the pump fit, just a slice straight down about half an inch long

or just use a hose and funnel, works just as good

is it different with the automatic maybe? All these links are for the mtx75.

Originally posted by TGO:
is it different with the automatic maybe? All these links are for the mtx75.

yeah you fill the atx through the dip stick tube ...

I prefer the pump. Might take a little longer, but I think it's easier to manage how much fluid is en route to the case -- less fluid overflowing on to the concrete.

I guess if you're a girly man and aren't able to pump then the funnel would be ideal

Thanks Todd... And for those of you who may not fully understand the issue, here's pictures of M1 & Honey showing their different size caps...

for both pics:Mobil 1 on Left, Ford Honey on Right

Originally posted by Tisby:
If you can't add info without starting another fluid war, stay outta this thread please.

So I'm switching to Ford Honey, but I usually just use a pump to get the fluid into the tranny. However, all the pumps I find in the stores are made for wider-mouthed bottles like the Mobil 1 fluid. How do I get this stuff into the tranny? I thought about a funnel & tube, but I don't see how I can route it down to the fill hole.

Like some have shown, buying the hose with the funnel assembly is the overall best way. I have a nice pump assembly I got from harbor freight tools that has a hose on either end and you stick one hose in the bottle and the other in the transmission. However, it does hold a larger amount of fluid in the device. It is a good enough pump that you can pump air with it so you can pull the hose from the bottle and keep pumping until most of the remaining fluid is pushed out but then you need to know how full you are and that precludes using the fill-till-spill method.

So yeah, the funnel with a piece of clear vinyl hose is the best. You can use a 50cent funnel and get like 20' of vinyl hose from HomeDepot for like $2 and then you have plenty of that hose for other things.

(prays that he doesn't start fluid war) I'm guessing you have used to M1 fluid? If you have, do you like the results? I am about to put a new-to-me tranny in and that is the fluid I bought. Just curious.

Well since ATF is not the spec for this transmission does it sound like a good idea?

Originally posted by CSVT.UA.SHO:
(prays that he doesn't start fluid war) I'm guessing you have used to M1 fluid? If you have, do you like the results? I am about to put a new-to-me tranny in and that is the fluid I bought. Just curious.

Nah, you're good.

Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:
Well since ATF is not the spec for this transmission does it sound like a good idea?

Not really, but...

I ran the M1 + FM cocktail as a sort of "flush." I'd put money on the fact that the MTX fluid was never changed before I purchased this vehicle.

The M1 has been in there for aoubt 7,500 miles and now I'm going to drain that out and replace it with the "Honey." IMO Ford Honey is too expensive to use for either (A) and break-in or (B)a "flush." That's the end of my reasoning.

"Fluid War." Is that like a pissing contest?

Originally posted by RogerB:
"Fluid War." Is that like a pissing contest?

Sorta, but you can use whatever "fluid" that you feel is "appropriate"

Originally posted by Tisby:
IMO Ford Honey is too expensive to use for either (A) and break-in or (B)a "flush." That's the end of my reasoning.

Break in? There is no break in. If there was a break in wouldn't Ford advise that when you picked up your car from the dealer. Just run what you're going to to be it Synchromax or Honey. Even after a rebuild. Their is a magnet in the trans to pick up any particles should their be any.

Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:

Originally posted by Tisby:
IMO Ford Honey is too expensive to use for either (A) and break-in or (B)a "flush." That's the end of my reasoning.

Break in? There is no break in. If there was a break in wouldn't Ford advise that when you picked up your car from the dealer. Just run what you're going to to be it Synchromax or Honey. Even after a rebuild. Their is a magnet in the trans to pick up any particles should their be any.

Well, sir, I believe that we agree to disagree.

Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:

Originally posted by Tisby:
IMO Ford Honey is too expensive to use for either (A) and break-in or (B)a "flush." That's the end of my reasoning.

Break in? There is no break in. If there was a break in wouldn't Ford advise that when you picked up your car from the dealer. Just run what you're going to to be it Synchromax or Honey. Even after a rebuild. Their is a magnet in the trans to pick up any particles should their be any.

Todd... you know that contradicts what Terry advises for his trannys. He told me to run dino ATF for the first 750 miles.

His words...

....break in 'bunk'. A new factory MTX75 comes in the
car with factory fill honey, what BS to apply the same
logic to a break in of the trans as an engine! FWIW
many new cars come with synth in the engine from the
factory...all this break in, no synth etc is old wives
bunk!!!!Why would you impregnate things like new
blockers etc with an ATF that is no longer spec for an
MTX....downright dumb!

hrm... I'll have to search my emails and stuff to see where I got that from.

Not to hijack, but is this the part# people are using for the RP Syncromax?

RPO-RP01512

It's $8.95/qt. from Summitracing, but I thought I'd check around town first. Wanted to confirm. Thanks!

Mark

Haven't gone by part #. Just go by the name. Only one Synchromax by RP.

Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:
Haven't gone by part #. Just go by the name. Only one Synchromax by RP.

Awesome! I figured that, but knowing how this whole debate goes...... Anyway, found it for $8.04/qt. locally, and they only have 3 quarts left on the shelf.

Mark

Pump pump pump pump it up!!

$5.00 at murray's and fits right on the Honey bottle:

This is the package it came in:

Originally posted by morbid:

Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:

Originally posted by Tisby:
IMO Ford Honey is too expensive to use for either (A) and break-in or (B)a "flush." That's the end of my reasoning.

Break in? There is no break in. If there was a break in wouldn't Ford advise that when you picked up your car from the dealer. Just run what you're going to to be it Synchromax or Honey. Even after a rebuild. Their is a magnet in the trans to pick up any particles should their be any.

Todd... you know that contradicts what Terry advises for his trannys. He told me to run dino ATF for the first 750 miles.

I just talked to Terry. He said that the days of ATF and friction modifier are over. Do not, he says, put ATF in the MTX-75. He recommends the Ford honey, but he says the RP SynchroMax might be a good subsitute.

As far as the break in period goes, I believe that this only applies to those transmissions that are coated at HMS. For my tranny, which has the coating, Terry told me that after 300 miles of moderate city driving, to drain and fill. He says some of the coating will get in the oil, turning it a little grey, and it is to be drained.

He also made an interesting point. Whatever you use to break in a new transmission, use that same fluid for the life of the transmisssion. I'm not a metallurgy expert, but my layman's explanation is that the brass-alloy compounds used in the forks are porous. If you put x-fluid in, x-fluid will get in the pores and won't entirely leave the metal. The same is true of the aluminum case. I haven't welded on aluminum, but I understand that, for a few different reasons, you pre-heat the metal prior to welding. Aluminum is porous and pre-heating leaches out contaminents prior to welding.

If your tranny is not new, and you change fluids, you won't ever be able to get all the old fluid out of the metals. This would compromise a comparison of a different oils.

Hehehe that pump looks like the one I have, but mine wasn't called "lubrimatic"

Now why does this not suprise me? This logic is just amazing. It's okay to recommend a fluid change for newly coated parts because they will produce a particulate that actually colors the fluid gray? Because the coating is gray? Well that isn't exactly a break-in, but it isn't exactly "not a break-in" either now is it?
But I'm fine with that because I agree that I wouldn't want those particles floating in the fluid forever.

However. How is that ANY different then recommending that the there should be a fluid change after a new Torsen unit is put into an MTX75? Why is it all different when we talk about putting in a Torsen, which is coated black on all the metal parts to prevent corrosion (like rifle blueing) I might add, and having the metal parts inside it that experience metal to metal contact wear off the black coating and consequently darken the oil. With black particles I might add?
Maybe when I said that black oily film in that trans was caused by the break-in of the T2 diff it will be better understood through the comparison with those gray-coated transmissions.

Originally posted by morbid:
Hehehe that pump looks like the one I have, but mine wasn't called "lubrimatic"

"No, no. That's not my bag, baby!"

At what intervals are you supposed to change the MTX fluid? I have 35K on the car now and I assume it is factory honey.

Factory says the fluid is lifetime. Conventional wisdom is that you will benefit from changing every 30K. Honey probably will hold up double that if you choose to leave it in.