hey before i get hounded for not searching i did search this topic and found no related threads....im just wondering if you have to remove the front subframe to remove the tranny? i am going to install a torsen LSD and need to remove the tranny...is it something that can be done on jackstands or should i pay someone to do it on a lift....i may have access to a lift but not sure yet depending on how much you have to take off to remove the tranny whether or not ill do it myself...i used to work for ford years ago and swapped out a few taurus trannies and i know that you had to remove the subframe for that so thats why im asking this....thanks
You can pull the engine/tranny together with the car on jackstands out through the top. The hood will go back far enough without pulling it off. Then you can do other things to then engine while you are at it anyway.
It takes an experienced person about 5 hours to park the car in the garage till the powerplant is on the ground next to it if you have an engine hoist and the right tools.
is this how most people do it? is it possible to drop just the tranny out from underneath of it?
i went through the bottom.. and its what i would do if i had to do it again.
get the subframe out and you are in business
No need to remove the subframe!! Leave the 2 bolts in the pass. side. They should be the first to be removed and then reinstall giving them about 4-5 turns. Then completely remove the driver side nuts and let it hang down. Don't have to mess with all the stuff attached to the SF.
HOw long did it take you Todd? And did you have air tools?
Took me quite a while working alone. I had air tools but didn't use them a ton. By the time you change the ends and mess around sometimes I'd just use a ratchet. Some place you just can't get into. These are pics of my 2nd R&R. I think about 7-8 hrs to remove. I take my time and have to deal with MI rusty bolts. Also whomever did this trans. last time tightened everything to 200 foot lbs. Not kidding either. I had to cut the stab-o-shock bracket off with my cut off wheel. Took me about an hour messing with that alone. I still couldn't get the 1/2 that's bolted to the trans off. Had to spend another 1/2 hr. cutting it into bits so I was able to get a new bracket on. I have recently bought a better gun too. The one that comes with the Craftsman pump SUCKS ARSE! Each job is different. This one didn't want to work with me.
Take sme about 4-5 hours to drop a trans using the same method as Todd (I showed him
)
They both have their advantages and disadvantages.
You need to have a realignment down if you pull the subframe. Unhooking the rack is a pain as well as maneuvering the trans. Of course you don't have to touch the coolant system but that isn't hard to pull. Very restrictive working underneath as well.
Pulling through the top makes pulling the trans and putting it back onto the engine very easy.
The downside is you have to pull the radiator and drain the coolant. Honestly I think there is less work to pull through the top and you get to see more of the engine for inspection purposes, and at least it is mostly done on your feet.
Another downside is needing a hoist.
well hopefully ill have a lift and then it should cut the time in half...like i said ive removed trannies in ford taurus's and the first one took me about 4 hours after that i started being able to do them in 2 hours...ford winstars as well....so that may give me and edge...but thanks for the heads up on telling me you do have to drop the subframe that was my main question....
contours much more cramped than both of those.
Definitely a nightmare.
contours arent that bad to work on, try putting a motor in a 99 dodge stratus (2.4L) way harder than any tour
maybe ive done too many tranny swaps eh?
2 hrs to replace a clutch in a 2nd gen turbo AWD eagle talon
This thread is too helpfull to let die...
Do you really need all of those special tools that the food service guide calls for besides the engine support bar? The only thing I haven't done in that guide is remove the fuel and ps rack lines and remove the cv shafts. As far as I know you only need the spindle nut socket. If there is more, I'm a fast learner
Originally posted by Tour_Racer00:
This thread is too helpfull to let die...
Do you really need all of those special tools that the food service guide calls for besides the engine support bar? The only thing I haven't done in that guide is remove the fuel and ps rack lines and remove the cv shafts. As far as I know you only need the spindle nut socket. If there is more, I'm a fast learner
Are you pulling the engine or dropping the subframe? If you are pulling the engine the only "special" tool you need is to disconnect the fuel lines. Other than that it's all basic tools and sockets.
Originally posted by vpogv:
Originally posted by Tour_Racer00:
This thread is too helpfull to let die...
Do you really need all of those special tools that the food service guide calls for besides the engine support bar? The only thing I haven't done in that guide is remove the fuel and ps rack lines and remove the cv shafts. As far as I know you only need the spindle nut socket. If there is more, I'm a fast learner
Are you pulling the engine or dropping the subframe? If you are pulling the engine the only "special" tool you need is to disconnect the fuel lines. Other than that it's all basic tools and sockets.
I should have responded to this last night after I made more progress. I'm dropping the subframe and taking the tranny out the bottom. Is the tool for the fuel line just a simple fuel line disconnect or is it a special tool that you have to get from ford? And why do you even have to disconnect the fuel line?
I didn't disconnnect the fuel line when I did mine.
Originally posted by Knip:
I didn't disconnnect the fuel line when I did mine.
If you are pulling it out the top, you MUST remove the fuel lines. Did you drop the sub-frame?
Originally posted by fastcougar:
Originally posted by Knip:
I didn't disconnnect the fuel line when I did mine.
If you are pulling it out the top, you MUST remove the fuel lines. Did you drop the sub-frame?
I am in the process of dropping the subframe, but I still don't know why i need to disconnect the fuel line
Originally posted by Tour_Racer00:
I am in the process of dropping the subframe, but I still don't know why i need to disconnect the fuel line
You don't need to disconnect the fuel lines if dropping it from the bottom.
Disconnect the steering shaft from the rack (from inside the car)
Pull the clutch line from the trans.
Make sure you unbolt the A/C condensor from the subframe too.
All of this has stated before but are the less obvious things to disconnect.
Originally posted by vpogv:
Disconnect the steering shaft from the rack (from inside the car)
Unsure what you mean by this one, the rest of it has already been done
Well the subframe isn't going anywhere w/o the steering disconnected. Go up under the dash and look where the steering goes through the floor. You need a 10mm to remove the bolt and then swing the lock piece up.
The bottom of the radiator needs to be unbolted after you secure the top of it to the top of the front clip. See the hole in the top of each guide? That's what they're there for. Hang the rad with some clothes hanger or nail.
Originally posted by todras:
Well the subframe isn't going anywhere w/o the steering disconnected. Go up under the dash and look where the steering goes through the floor. You need a 10mm to remove the bolt and then swing the lock piece up.
The bottom of the radiator needs to be unbolted after you secure the top of it to the top of the front clip. See the hole in the top of each guide? That's what they're there for. Hang the rad with some clothes hanger or nail.
The radiator has already been taken care of, the only two things I have to do now is take off the power steering line from the rack as well as the steering shaft I guess. I took off the 10mm but have no idea what to do now/if i should lower the subframe
Just unbolt the 10mm bolt and then seperate the steering rack from from the shaft. Don't even mess with the PS lines. Leave the passenger side subframe bolts in about 5 turns and drop the drivers side.
can i just drop half the subframe, pull the tranny out far enough to pop my new clutch on, and slap it together? i know the subframe has to be dropped so the end of the tranny can slide out a few inches but really, that shouldnt be all that hard, right?
Originally posted by TRicker:
can i just drop half the subframe, pull the tranny out far enough to pop my new clutch on, and slap it together? i know the subframe has to be dropped so the end of the tranny can slide out a few inches but really, that shouldnt be all that hard, right?
It was posted within one of those links that you can just lower the subframe enough to move the trans over a bit and do the clutch. The downside is there is limited space to work in and when you are 2 bolts away from dropping the one side of the subframe, why now just spend 5 min to give yourself room to work and see.
Originally posted by TRicker:
can i just drop half the subframe, pull the tranny out far enough to pop my new clutch on, and slap it together? i know the subframe has to be dropped so the end of the tranny can slide out a few inches but really, that shouldnt be all that hard, right?
Yes go ahead and do that. Works great. That's why nothing in the thread recommends doing that since it WON'T WORK. 
Also if you have the clutch out I hope you're replaceing the throw out bearing unless you replaced it out 30k ago. How are you going to tq down the pressure plate? The flywheel has to come off to resurfaced as well. The brightness around here has become a lot dimmer lately.
i have half the subframe lowered right now, and the tranny bolts are out. the mounts have been completely removed. everything is off that should be except for the starter. would this keep the tranny attatched to the engine? i am having trouble prying the trans away from the block. i called blackcoog (he does alot of swaps) and he said i should have 7 trans bolts out (i do) he also says that the driver side axle should pull right out since i unbolted the lower A arm. he says the pass. side should pull right out without much problem, if i leave the halfshaft in the trans. the trans prys out atbout 1/4" off the motor but seems to be stuck on top. would the starter hold it on?
Remove the starter ... there is a LIP IIRC that is probably hanging you up. Have you tried to lift the trans up and pull at the same time?
