Originally posted by mean'tour:
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Originally posted by mean'tour:
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Something strange happened to me twice over the past 3 days. I was accelerating like away from a light, and as I let out the clutch, the whole car jerked like I had just popped the clutch out suddenly, but I don't think I did.
If I'm not nuts and it really happened, is this a symptom of something, except my slippery shoes or something?
It's pretty cold here, if that makes a difference.
I will be very conscious of what I'm doing and watch for it for the next little while. Am I just nuts?
Any ideas?
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It has happened 1 other time over the weekend. Any ideas? Is something slipping/ worn out, etc? I did have the clutch rebuilt/ replaced in the past 2 years and within 40K miles.
Any ideas? Please say it is something simple that I can do on my own!
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Anyone? It's like as I was moving forward I hit the clutch down. Is it slipping or something? Could the engine be stumbling? I don't have a CEL.
I'm going to get rearended one of these times. Any ideas?
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***Don't kill me for cross posting. I'm not getting any help/ suggestions in the Transaxle forum, and know that the NE peeps can always be counted on... *** ***
I was getting a bit of clutch chatter a few nights ago when we had that cold snap. It went away after a few mins and since it's warmer now, completely gone. Worried the hell outta me at the time but now I think it was just weather related.
if you feel some sort of knocking comming outa your pedal or hear screeechy noise upon starting the car..then yes your clutch is saying bye bye bye
it was probably just clutch chatter. When you're letting the clutch out when you take off there is a point where the speed of the flywheel (engine) and the clutch plate (transmission) and the pressure on the clutch are just right where rather than slide or slip past eachother it does a slip, grab, slip grab thing and thats where the shaking comes from. Its something that is more common on large clutches like on big trucks.
When it happens there's 2 things you can do, let off the gas a little to let the engine's rpm drop and equal the rpm of the transmission so you can let the clutch the rest of the way out, or push the clutch in and try letting it out again.
There's 3 major things that can cause chatter. A warped flywheel or pressure plate casued by overheating. An oil leak that is lubricating the clutch. Or the way you let the clutch out.
A worn out clutch will be more likely to slip in higher gears than in lower gears. You'll know when its clutch time when you're under hard acceleration and letting the clutch out fast while on the gas real hard and the engine doesn't come down to where it should for that gear until a quick second after you let the clutch all the way out. When that happens, stop going hard immediately and go easy on it and make arrangements to have the clutch changed as soon as possible becasue you're on borrowed time. The clutch lining is very thin and the rivets are very close or are hitting the flywheel, the lining could crack and fly apart and then you'll have to call a tow truck. I've nursed a bad clutch for a month waiting for warmer weather so I could change it comfortably.
Originally posted by JSmith:
it was probably just clutch chatter. When you're letting the clutch out when you take off there is a point where the speed of the flywheel (engine) and the clutch plate (transmission) and the pressure on the clutch are just right where rather than slide or slip past eachother it does a slip, grab, slip grab thing and thats where the shaking comes from. Its something that is more common on large clutches like on big trucks.
When it happens there's 2 things you can do, let off the gas a little to let the engine's rpm drop and equal the rpm of the transmission so you can let the clutch the rest of the way out, or push the clutch in and try letting it out again.
There's 3 major things that can cause chatter. A warped flywheel or pressure plate casued by overheating. An oil leak that is lubricating the clutch. Or the way you let the clutch out.
A worn out clutch will be more likely to slip in higher gears than in lower gears. You'll know when its clutch time when you're under hard acceleration and letting the clutch out fast while on the gas real hard and the engine doesn't come down to where it should for that gear until a quick second after you let the clutch all the way out. When that happens, stop going hard immediately and go easy on it and make arrangements to have the clutch changed as soon as possible becasue you're on borrowed time. The clutch lining is very thin and the rivets are very close or are hitting the flywheel, the lining could crack and fly apart and then you'll have to call a tow truck. I've nursed a bad clutch for a month waiting for warmer weather so I could change it comfortably.
I don't really feel like I'm driving any differently. It only happens at slow speeds for instance, from a stop moving very slowly in traffic or something.
I'll start looking for an oil-leak. I need to change the oil in the next 2 weeks, so I'll look around some while I'm under there. I did recently (in the past 4 months or so) have a leak and I changed out my oil pan gasket, stopping the leak. But it could be leaking elsewhere.
By overheating, do you mean like engine overheating? Or clutch overheating? I have never overheated in this car, and don't really drive it hard... When I got the clutch done a couple of years ago, they replaced the fly wheel. (not that it couldn't have gone bad...)
What other symptoms should I be looking for?
Thanks! I knew the NE crew would come through, with at least some ideas!
Overheating = Clutch overheating. I also don't think an oil pan leak would cause any problems with a clutch. If your rear main seal is leaking though... that would definitly not be good. That would be evident by oil dripping from the point where the trans. mates up with the block.
Originally posted by ctmystique:
Overheating = Clutch overheating.
you got it, thats what I meant and unless you drive like an animal or spend lots of time in traffic you won't overheat the clutch. if you do you'll smell it.
Originally posted by ctmystique:
I also don't think an oil pan leak would cause any problems with a clutch. If your rear main seal is leaking though... that would definitly not be good. That would be evident by oil dripping from the point where the trans. mates up with the block.
Right, an oil pan leak won't likely casue it but on some vehicles it is possible. A rear main seal, clutch slave cylinder or transmission input shaft leakage can all generate enough oil deposits on the clutch to cause chatter. But unless you see oil drops forming on the drain hole at the bottom of the inspection plate you don't have anything to worry about.
If the clutch hydraulic system gets air in it, that could cause it too. It is possible that the oil in the resivor got too low and let air into the system. On the Contour the clutch and the brakes share the same resivor. The clutch is connected by a hose that attaches to the resivor on the side of the driverside fender, there's a little nipple that sitcks out of the side of the resivor with a hose attached to it that attaches to the clutch master cylinder. Take a look at the kinda clear resivor and make sure that the oil level is at least above where this hose attaches or preferably at the MAX line, if it is then you can probably rule out the possibility of air in the system.
With this recent cold spell we had I'd say that its very likely that low temperatures played a big role in the chatter becasue everything works different to one degree or another when it gets real cold. When I had my SVT if I was a little to light with the clutch on cold days it would give a little shimmy while taking off from a stop.
In your case I wouldn't worry, just be aware of it to make sure it doesn't get any worse and see if you can notice a pattern with chatter vs cold weather. If it goes away when its warm and somes back when it gets real cold then I'd say don't worry about it. Just do what you need to in order to keep the chatter to a minimum when it is happening.
If you start loosing sleep over it then have the clutch inspected to make sure its in good shape.
So, I'm not sure if this is related or not, but I'm thinking so. This morning at a stop, it died. Started right back up, but that was weird.
Any ideas? I'm going to be beneath the car this weekend and will look for oil leaks, but with this kill I'm wondering if it isn't something else.
I have no CEL and it seems to run fine.
Originally posted by mean'tour:
So, I'm not sure if this is related or not, but I'm thinking so. This morning at a stop, it died. Started right back up, but that was weird.
Any ideas? I'm going to be beneath the car this weekend and will look for oil leaks, but with this kill I'm wondering if it isn't something else.
I have no CEL and it seems to run fine.
I might be a little paranoid, but my car is feeling strange lately. It has died several times. Always in 1st slowly pulling away from a stop. A couple of other times I was able to catch it and give it gas or clutch...
ANY IDEAS ?!?! I feeling a lot of movement, like I need motor mounts, could that have something to do with it? Will replacing the front and rear roll resistors fix that movement problem? I know I can pull those (the others mounts I'm not sure about).
Also I've noticed something else. Seems electrical. As I'm coming to a stop, have the clutch in and braking, as the revs come down to idle, the lights dim and the fan (it's cold here right now) slows for a half second, then once it hits idle it seems to be fine again. The revs aren't dropping below idle (750 ish) ...
Maybe I'm just paranoid. I'm getting a little concerned about my baby.
Something is going on, and I don't even know where to start.
Twice today (and I only drove to and from church with the kiddies) it tried to stall. Once in a drive-thru window it struggled to idle then idled fine. Then once as I was turning onto my street, so slowing clutch in, braking. This time I watched and felt the idle going all over the place. 1200, 650, 1000, 1400 then it seemed to stabilize.
Any ideas? Sorry to be a pain. Fuel problem maybe? My fuel filter is a little less than a year old.
Bring it to have codes scanned, even though you have no CEL.
You can throw a code and not have a CEL for certain ones.
how old is your alternator?
how many miles are on your car?
When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires and ran a bottle of fuel injector cleaner with a tank of gas?
If your car has over 75,000 miles on it and the serpentine belt that runs the engine accessories has never been changed, it should be.
Worn spark plugs with a larger gap require a higher voltage to build up before the spark jumps the gap and becasue a higher voltage needs to be achieved the resulting spark is not as hot. Degraded spark plug wires will have a similar effect.
Lower spark temperature will cause a notable change in the ability to initiate the fuel burn especailly when there is a rapid change in manifold pressure like when you step on the gas a little as you let the clutch out. Cold wether only aggrivates the problem.
Worn serpentine belt can allow the altenator pulley to slip slightly, just enough that it turns slower than the engine but not so slow that it squeels. This ammount slower is just enough that the altenator can't make the power it needs to when the engine is idling. Also if the belt is worn, cold weather will only make allow the belt to slip all the more before it starts to squeel.
If your car has over 70,000 miles it is not unresonable to suspect the altenator is nearing the end of its life and is getting tired and sometimes doesn't make full power.
Thanks for the suggestions.
My car has over 118,XXX miles. The plugs and wires were changed less than a year ago. I run some injector cleaner through pretty regularly. I've done it several times in the last few weeks. B-12 specifically.
Alternator? I'm not sure. I don't remember that ever being changed. I had some electrical problems 6 weeks ago and thought that might be the culprit, but it was a short. But the alternator still might not be at 100%.
I'll see if they will pull the codes for me. One time I tried that (I was trying to make sure I had fixed a problem) and they said that they wouldn't try to pull the codes unless your CEL was on, because there would definitely be nothing to read. AZone.
How hard is it to change out an alternator? What do they run? Are there different kinds? I'm pretty ignorant about that sort of thing. How do you test one?
What about the killing thing? The car starts right back up, so unless I'm missing something I doubt the alt. is the cause there.
Darn, I sure like this car, and can't really afford to replace it right now. But DAM there are lots of problems beginning to come up. I know, I know older cars do that.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Originally posted by mean'tour:
I'll see if they will pull the codes for me. One time I tried that (I was trying to make sure I had fixed a problem) and they said that they wouldn't try to pull the codes unless your CEL was on, because there would definitely be nothing to read. AZone.
Just go to Advanced Auto Parts instead. They give you a scanner to go out to the car and scan yourself. It logs the codes, then you go inside, they hook it up to a printer and print out a receipt with the codes.
My car had a fuel pump code held in memory that did not show a CEL. Nothing wrong with the car, but had to pull the fuse to install the new fuel filter and forgot to reset the ECU.
Man, I gotta learn how to use my software for my laptop. I have have all the stuff to read codes and run diags, I just don't know how to use it. Tried using it once and got impatient. Brapple, you gotta walk me through it!!
Anyway, did you check the TPS (throttle position sensor)? When they go, it messes with your idle and can cause it to stall.
Originally posted by Cobra:
Brapple, you gotta walk me through it!!
sure i'll take a look at it
Originally posted by Cobra:
Man, I gotta learn how to use my software for my laptop. I have have all the stuff to read codes and run diags, I just don't know how to use it. Tried using it once and got impatient. Brapple, you gotta walk me through it!!
Anyway, did you check the TPS (throttle position sensor)? When they go, it messes with your idle and can cause it to stall.
How do you check the TPS? It is actually new, relatively. It was replaced in the past 3-4 years. It went out and I was killing at random times... But it had broken off, so they had to pull the tranny to replace it. That was fun, they did the clutch while they were in there.
I hope your thinking of something else, because the TPS is mounted on the throttle body. There's no need to remove the tranny to replace it. Should take under 2 minutes to replace. To check it mecahnically, remove it and check to see that the part that looks like a flat head screwdriver moves freely. I'm not sure how to tell if its fried electrically.
Originally posted by Cobra:
<b>I hope you're thinking of something else</b>, because the TPS is mounted on the throttle body. There's no need to remove the tranny to replace it. Should take under 2 minutes to replace. To check it mecahnically, remove it and check to see that the part that looks like a flat head screwdriver moves freely. I'm not sure how to tell if its fried electrically.
I hope so too! But those are the symptoms that I had, the random dying... The description my mechanic gave was that the computer couldn't read the engine speed or something, and got confused. Maybe it was the TSS? Tranmission Speed Sensor or something? It was several years ago. Whatever they did fixed it.
Any photos of this TPS? Is it a part you can just get at AZone? Or would I have to go to Ford?
Thanks! Is
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by Cobra:
<b>I hope you're thinking of something else</b>, because the TPS is mounted on the throttle body. There's no need to remove the tranny to replace it. Should take under 2 minutes to replace. To check it mecahnically, remove it and check to see that the part that looks like a flat head screwdriver moves freely. I'm not sure how to tell if its fried electrically.
I hope so too! But those are the symptoms that I had, the random dying... The description my mechanic gave was that the computer couldn't read the engine speed or something, and got confused. Maybe it was the TSS? Tranmission Speed Sensor or something? It was several years ago. Whatever they did fixed it.
Any photos of this TPS? Is it a part you can just get at AZone? Or would I have to go to Ford?
Thanks! Is
Your car doesn't have TSS (Turbine Speed Sensor?) Only found on ATX.
Only thing I can think of is that they replaced the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Original design used a plastic pin on the sensor. Over time, the pin would sometimes break. Most cases, you unscrew it and use something to grab the pin out of the hole.
But other times the pin falls into the tranny and tranny needs to be removed. 
The TPS is circled in red:
BTW, what kind of plug wires are those?
yup, that's the TPS. You should be able to get it anywhere. I prefer Robbins Auto. They actually had a headlight switch for my old Grand Marquis in stock when it pooped on me!! From then on I've gone to them for the hard to find non-ford parts.
dont forget there is a different TPS for SVT and non-SVT TBs!
they rotate in different directions.
someone had an issue after doing TB optimizing with the TPS and thats when we figured out there was a different one for each.
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Ford Racing 9mm.
There has been problems reported with Ford Racing wires in the past. Bad idle, misfires, etc. Most common seen is just overall early failure. (i.e. under 10k miles)
Recommended wires are Magnecor 8.5mm or OEM Motorcraft.
All right. So new problem or maybe symptom of same problem.
This morning at stops (not all stops, but maybe half) the idle would go all over the place. As it was coming down it would hit 1000, then drop to 500 (and I'm thinking it's going to die) then it would spike up and finally settle in at the usual 750 idle.
Is that the TPS? (please say yes, please say yes). How hard is that to change? Any special tools? I haven't had a chance to lift the hood and take a look at it yet, it'll probably be obvious.
well I am not possitive but I do know a bad IAC will cause the car to stall, but more often then not that also creates the moose
the TPS is on the side of the tb, so you need to pull the tb off and it is two bolts that hold it on, bu tbe careful as they maybe dificult to get out
it could also be a dirty EGR system. The valve might have alot of carbon on it and therefore is moving sluggish or maybe is not making a very good seal when it closes. Alother possibility is that the EGR ports in the intake manifold are pretty well choked with deposits.
The EGR is supposed to be closed at idle or anytime the throttle is closed but if it is leaking exhasut gasses into the intake air stream it will cause the engine to run as if it had a rich fuel air mixture and the oxygen sensor readings will agree with that. Therefore, the computer will control the injectors to inject less fuel to bring the fuel mixture to "acceptable" levels. At idle the airflow through the engine is so little that even a very small leak of exhaust gasses into the intake stream will casue an enrichening effect so stong that after you lean the fuel mixture so it is equalized with the ammount of available oxygen the mixture will be so lean it may not be able to burn and the engine will slow down or try to stall. The computer will then open the IAC valve to let in more air, inject a little more fuel and suddenly the air/fuel mixture equalizes and the engine revs quickly, faster than the IAC valve can react to maintain an idle of around 700 to 750rpm.
Either the EGR or the IAC vavles can cause a similar problem. Both of the vavles have corresponding ports built into the intake manifold and both of these ports, especially the EGR, can become dirty or even partially blocked and lead to problems like you're describing.
I'd like to suggest that you start out with a complete upper intake manifild cleaning and decarbonization. If you're doing it yourself you'll want to pick up some gaskets first, throttle body, IAC valve, EGR valve and upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold gaskets before you start this though. There is a complete how-to write up in the how to section of the site
here and here
Originally posted by BrApple:
well I am not possitive but I do know a bad IAC will cause the car to stall, but more often then not that also creates the moose
the TPS is on the side of the tb, so you need to pull the tb off and it is two bolts that hold it on, but be careful as they maybe dificult to get out.
Allright, I'll try that. Darn ignorance, I hate it when it shows but... What is the IAC? Where is it, how much, how hard to replace?
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by BrApple:
well I am not possitive but I do know a bad IAC will cause the car to stall, but more often then not that also creates the moose
the TPS is on the side of the tb, so you need to pull the tb off and it is two bolts that hold it on, but be careful as they maybe dificult to get out.
Allright, I'll try that. Darn ignorance, I hate it when it shows but... What is the IAC? Where is it, how much, how hard to replace?
IAC=Idle air controler, looking at the car head on it is on the back right of the UIM, has a hose that runs into the accordian tube, this is where you put the copper cap for the moose/th fix
the IAC is held on by two bolts, you might be able to get away with cleaning it and not need a new one yet. make sure you replace the gasket also
Originally posted by BrApple:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by BrApple:
well I am not possitive but I do know a bad IAC will cause the car to stall, but more often then not that also creates the moose
the TPS is on the side of the tb, so you need to pull the tb off and it is two bolts that hold it on, but be careful as they maybe dificult to get out.
Allright, I'll try that. Darn ignorance, I hate it when it shows but... What is the IAC? Where is it, how much, how hard to replace?
IAC=Idle air controler, looking at the car head on it is on the back right of the UIM, has a hose that runs into the accordian tube, this is where you put the copper cap for the moose/th fix
the IAC is held on by two bolts, you might be able to get away with cleaning it and not need a new one yet. make sure you replace the gasket also
So this right here? The silver thingie, right? 
Thanks for all of the help everyone. I do appreciate it. Everyone on these boards, especially the NECEG guys/gals, have always been really great.
yeah thats it just to the right of where the hose attaches, it has the two wires running to it
Originally posted by BrApple:
yeah thats it just to the right of where the hose attaches, it has the two wires running to it
So I was able to find some time to poke my head under the hood. I found the IAC, but couldn't see where the bolts are. What am I missing? One thing that I noticed was that the hose above (that you put the TH fix piece into) was loose and nearly falling off it's fitting. I put that back on and hopefully that will help.
I went to the Advanced Auto in Attleboro. They don't pull codes.
I was planning on cleaning the IAC up and seeing if that would help. Advanced also told me they couldn't get just the gasket...
Well, CEL went on today. I'll have to go run and get the codes pulled. I'll post them. Maybe that will help narrow down my problem.
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Well, CEL went on today. I'll have to go run and get the codes pulled. I'll post them. Maybe that will help narrow down my problem.
OK just got back from AZone. P0171 and P0174. Lean on both banks.
Is that causing my idling problems? Or the problem (probably the idle thingie) of when I think the engine is going to die as I'm pulling away from a light in 1st. It did the idle trick this morning at a stop, and the nearly dying thing on the way back from AZ. It does randomly die at a stop every day or two.
Any ideas? I replaced one of the O2 sensors (I think upstream bank 2) a few weeks ago. Is this O2 sensor related, or IAC or TPS... Any ideas?
Frustrating, frustrating, frustrating...
Ok. 1st step. Clean the EGR and IAC. Seems like you are getting the exact symtoms Jay described.
If that doesn't work, replace the TPS, it cheap enough.
Then an upper and lower intake total cleaning.
Originally posted by Cobra:
Ok. 1st step. Clean the EGR and IAC. Seems like you are getting the exact symtoms Jay described.
If that doesn't work, replace the TPS, it cheap enough.
Then an upper and lower intake total cleaning.
All right, that's what I'll do. Where's the EGR? Where are the mounting bolts for the IAC? I looked and it wasn't obvious.
Ugh, I want to do the cleaning, and I'm sure I need it. I'm very intimidated by it though. Especially after hearing all the problems people have ...
Try pulling the plug on the Maf sensor and see if it drives any different then plug it back in if it doesn't. And try the same thing for the TPS. This will help rule out the two sensors. This will defenitly through a code but will go away after you plug it back in. No maf should make it run fairly rich in limp mode. Probably the same for the TPS. Good luck.
The mounting bolts for the IAC are obvious, you may have just missed them. You can even see the top bolt in your picture. It bolts right onto the UIM. If you have a mirror you can stick down there, it may help you locate them.
The EGR is the silver saucer like thing that stands on top of your UIM. Again, when doing the UIM cleaning, disconnet this valve and give the port a thorough cleaning.
Just dive into the cleaning. Its not that bad. Just take your time and do everything step by step. Give yourself at least a full day to do it your first time.
Originally posted by mean'tour:
All right, that's what I'll do. Where's the EGR? Where are the mounting bolts for the IAC? I looked and it wasn't obvious.
In the picture that someone posted to show the IAC valve you can see the EGR in that picture too. The EGR vavle is right next to the IAC valve. The EGR is the one that is a little closer to the front of the car than the IAC and the EGR is going to be a little rusty with a flying saucer looking thing on top with a hose going into it.
Originally posted by JSmith:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
All right, that's what I'll do. Where's the EGR? Where are the mounting bolts for the IAC? I looked and it wasn't obvious.
In the picture that someone posted to show the IAC valve you can see the EGR in that picture too. The EGR vavle is right next to the IAC valve. The EGR is the one that is a little closer to the front of the car than the IAC and the EGR is going to be a little rusty with a flying saucer looking thing on top with a hose going into it.
Now that's the kind of instructions I need! Thanks.
How do I remove and clean it?
Thanks to everyone for all the help and suggestions! I'll keep this updated.
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=17http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=43The EGR valve is held in with two bolts just like the IAC vavle. If you're going to do an in depth cleaning you'll need to take both of them off.
before you take them off you'll want to make sure you get new gaskets for them becasue the original gaskets might be torn when you take the valves off and might leak if you use them again.
Throttle body gasket F5DZ-9E936-AE ~US $1.95
EGR gasket E6AZ-9D476-B US $1.35
IAC gasket E83Z-9F670-A ~US <$1
The cleaning is pretty straight forward. Get yourself some carb / choke cleaner. I like
berrymans b12 chemtool , its the best stuff I've ever seen. When you take them off you'll see wether they need cleaning or not, it will be obvious. Start by giving the areas that face inside the manifold a good spraying with the cleaner to remove any loose stuff. Then with a stiff tooth brush moistened with the cleaner scrub 'em. If you keep the dirty areas wet with cleaner and let them soak it will help loosen the tough baked on stuff before you go to scrub them.
The opening that the EGR valve goes into has passages that lead to behind the throttle body. You'll want to clean them out too. So you might want to take the throttle body off too.
Make sure you wear sefety goggles or glasses, if the mist comming from the brush gets in your eyes its going to burn like nothing you've ever felt before. If you can get some use dish washing gloves too because the cleaner really dries out your skin. If you want to use surgical rubber gloves they'll work too but latex(white) vinyl (clear) will get dissolved but the blue ones will hold up for a while.
J,
Wow THANKS! That's great info.
I have a can of Berryman's I was planning on using. Where can I get the gaskets? AZone (or somewhere) or will I need to go to Ford?
Thanks for the glasses reminder. I don't forget those anymore, since I got gas in my eyes changing out my fuel filter the 1st time...
I was planning on using rubber gloves, but the white latex won't hold up? OK, I'll get something else.
Thanks again! I guess I'll be disassembling and cleaning tomorrow...
mt
Originally posted by mean'tour:
J,
Wow THANKS! That's great info.
Where can I get the gaskets? AZone (or somewhere) or will I need to go to Ford?
Thanks again! I guess I'll be disassembling and cleaning tomorrow...
mt
Bump-- Anyone know where to get these gaskets? I leave work in about an hour and will need to get them on the way home...
I think those are Ford part numbers Jay posted. Try your local ford/lincoln/mercury dealership to see if they have them in stock.
Otherwise, you could probably try to hit up the local auto parts store.
edit: couldn't hurt to call around before leaving, instead of driving from place to place.
Originally posted by frenchblueC2:
I think those are Ford part numbers Jay posted. Try your local ford/lincoln/mercury dealership to see if they have them in stock.
Otherwise, you could probably try to hit up the local auto parts store.
edit: couldn't hurt to call around before leaving, instead of driving from place to place.
Yes, those are ford part numbers. If you go a big autoparts store chain like NAPA I think they might be able to cross reference the numbers.
Originally posted by JSmith:
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=17
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=43
The EGR valve is held in with two bolts just like the IAC vavle. If you're going to do an in depth cleaning you'll need to take both of them off.
before you take them off you'll want to make sure you get new gaskets for them becasue the original gaskets might be torn when you take the valves off and might leak if you use them again.
Throttle body gasket F5DZ-9E936-AE ~US $1.95
EGR gasket E6AZ-9D476-B US $1.35
IAC gasket E83Z-9F670-A ~US <$1
The cleaning is pretty straight forward. Get yourself some carb / choke cleaner. I like berrymans b12 chemtool , its the best stuff I've ever seen. When you take them off you'll see wether they need cleaning or not, it will be obvious. Start by giving the areas that face inside the manifold a good spraying with the cleaner to remove any loose stuff. Then with a stiff tooth brush moistened with the cleaner scrub 'em. If you keep the dirty areas wet with cleaner and let them soak it will help loosen the tough baked on stuff before you go to scrub them.
The opening that the EGR valve goes into has passages that lead to behind the throttle body. You'll want to clean them out too. So you might want to take the throttle body off too.
Make sure you wear sefety goggles or glasses, if the mist comming from the brush gets in your eyes its going to burn like nothing you've ever felt before. If you can get some use dish washing gloves too because the cleaner really dries out your skin. If you want to use surgical rubber gloves they'll work too but latex(white) vinyl (clear) will get dissolved but the blue ones will hold up for a while.
Wow, fun day. I had a lot of trouble finding the gaskets. The dealer I called nope, 2 Autozones, 1 Napa...
I took off the TPS, IAC, throttle body and loosened the EGR. Cleaned them all off, the only one that looked bad was the throttle body.
Also replaced the fuel filter.
I will experiment over the next few days with the unhooking a sensor and seeing what's not working...
2 problems. I broke a small hollow gray tube behind the IAC. Anyone know what it's for? How to fix/ replace. Also the bottom bolt on the IAC broke in half as I was screwing it in. Nightmare. I guess I'll have to fix that one day.
Thanks for the suggestions.
My camera battery died before I could get a photo of the little part I broke. It is a small gray tube located right behind the IAC.
Any ideas what this is? How do I repair/ replace it?
Get a small peice of vacuum hose and just slip it over the broken peices...
Originally posted by mean'tour:
My camera battery died before I could get a photo of the little part I broke. It is a small gray tube located right behind the IAC.
Any ideas what this is? How do I repair/ replace it?
Here is a photo of the piece that I broke, sort of. It's bad, I know. But it will at least show where the borken part is... 
What is it? Any ideas how to repair/ replace?
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by JSmith:
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=17
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=43
The EGR valve is held in with two bolts just like the IAC vavle. If you're going to do an in depth cleaning you'll need to take both of them off.
The cleaning is pretty straight forward. Get yourself some carb / choke cleaner. I like berrymans b12 chemtool , its the best stuff I've ever seen. When you take them off you'll see wether they need cleaning or not, it will be obvious.
The opening that the EGR valve goes into has passages that lead to behind the throttle body.
Wow, fun day. I had a lot of trouble finding the gaskets. The dealer I called nope, 2 Autozones, 1 Napa...
I took off the TPS, IAC, throttle body and loosened the EGR. Cleaned them all off, the only one that looked bad was the throttle body.
Also replaced the fuel filter.
I will experiment over the next few days with the unhooking a sensor and seeing what's not working...
Thanks for the suggestions.
Well, so far so good. Since finishing up the cleaning work on Saturday night, I have driven the car 3 times. Once on Sunday 25 minutes to church, then back. Then this morning 30 minutes to work.
No idle problems, no killing, no jerking... I'm afraid to jinx it but it seems to be better. The only things that I did that needed it was clean out the IAC (there was some black buildup in there) and the TB (some buildup there), pull all the electrical connections and make sure the contacts looked good and put some bulb grease in there, and replace the fuel filter.
I hope one of those was my problem. The problem was very intermittent at times... Felt like something dirty or not properly connected or on it's way out...
Thanks again!
Maybe you've found the issue....sometimes it's the simple things that screw things up...
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by JSmith:
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=17
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=43
The EGR valve is held in with two bolts just like the IAC vavle. If you're going to do an in depth cleaning you'll need to take both of them off.
The cleaning is pretty straight forward. Get yourself some carb / choke cleaner. I like berrymans b12 chemtool , its the best stuff I've ever seen. When you take them off you'll see wether they need cleaning or not, it will be obvious.
The opening that the EGR valve goes into has passages that lead to behind the throttle body.
Wow, fun day. I had a lot of trouble finding the gaskets. The dealer I called nope, 2 Autozones, 1 Napa...
I took off the TPS, IAC, throttle body and loosened the EGR. Cleaned them all off, the only one that looked bad was the throttle body.
Also replaced the fuel filter.
I will experiment over the next few days with the unhooking a sensor and seeing what's not working...
Thanks for the suggestions.
Well, so far so good. Since finishing up the cleaning work on Saturday night, I have driven the car 3 times. Once on Sunday 25 minutes to church, then back. Then this morning 30 minutes to work.
No idle problems, no killing, no jerking... I'm afraid to jinx it but it seems to be better. The only things that I did that needed it was clean out the IAC (there was some black buildup in there) and the TB (some buildup there), pull all the electrical connections and make sure the contacts looked good and put some bulb grease in there, and replace the fuel filter.
I hope one of those was my problem. The problem was very intermittent at times... Felt like something dirty or not properly connected or on it's way out...
Thanks again!
Allright, so no more dying or low idle. Now the throttle seems to be sticking. Again intermittent. I only noticed it today on the way home from work. Rolling to a stop, clutch in, engine should be revving down from 3000, instead goes up like I have the gas down...
I'm sure it's just a sensor... Or could the throttle actually be sticking? What might cause that? I just cleaned the TB over the weekend.
Thanks again.
if thats the vacuum hose your pointing to that connects to the brake booster, I have a brand new OEM ford one right here!
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
if thats the vacuum hose your pointing to that connects to the brake booster, I have a brand new OEM ford one right here!
Goonz,
No it's not. It's a bad photo of a tiny little gray hose (like a 1/4 across). I don't know what it is.
I bought some wiring shrink wrap and will just take care of it that way. Because of the location, I just couldn't get in there to electrical tape it up...
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by JSmith:
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=17
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=43
Thanks for the suggestions.
Well, so far so good. Since finishing up the cleaning work on Saturday night, I have driven the car 3 times. Once on Sunday 25 minutes to church, then back. Then this morning 30 minutes to work.
No idle problems, no killing, no jerking... I'm afraid to jinx it but it seems to be better. The only things that I did that needed it was clean out the IAC (there was some black buildup in there) and the TB (some buildup there), pull all the electrical connections and make sure the contacts looked good and put some bulb grease in there, and replace the fuel filter.
I hope one of those was my problem. The problem was very intermittent at times... Felt like something dirty or not properly connected or on it's way out...
Thanks again!
Allright, so no more dying or low idle. Now the throttle seems to be sticking. Again intermittent. I only noticed it today on the way home from work. Rolling to a stop, clutch in, engine should be revving down from 3000, instead goes up like I have the gas down...
I'm sure it's just a sensor... Or could the throttle actually be sticking? What might cause that? I just cleaned the TB over the weekend.
Thanks again.
Any ideas?
The CEL came back on this morning (I had taken the neg. off the battery to clear the codes). I'll try to run at lunch and get the codes pulled.
have you fixed the vacuum hose?
I'm glad you're shrink wraping it, that will seal alot better and last longer than electrical tape.
They also now have liquid electrical tape. Cool stuff just brush it on and let it dry. Comes in handy in tight spots.
Walmart has it in there wire terminal section. Glad to here you got that patched up.
Originally posted by jd28:
They also now have liquid electrical tape. Cool stuff just brush it on and let it dry. Comes in handy in tight spots.
Walmart has it in there wire terminal section. Glad to here you got that patched up.
Actually I have some of that. Maybe I'll try that...
ANYONE!!!???
Any ideas on the sticky feeling throttle?
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by jd28:
They also now have liquid electrical tape. Cool stuff just brush it on and let it dry. Comes in handy in tight spots.
Walmart has it in there wire terminal section. Glad to here you got that patched up.
Actually I have some of that. Maybe I'll try that...
ANYONE!!!???
Any ideas on the sticky feeling throttle?
check the throttle cable for binding and wear, a new one is about $30 to $40 from Bill so that could be an option, if you just cleaned the tb you didn't damage the seals or bearing in teh tb did you? if you want I have a slightly optomized stock se tb I can send to you, I have no need for it.
Originally posted by BrApple:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by jd28:
They also now have liquid electrical tape. Cool stuff just brush it on and let it dry. Comes in handy in tight spots.
Walmart has it in there wire terminal section. Glad to here you got that patched up.
Actually I have some of that. Maybe I'll try that...
ANYONE!!!???
Any ideas on the sticky feeling throttle?
check the throttle cable for binding and wear, a new one is about $30 to $40 from Bill so that could be an option, if you just cleaned the tb you didn't damage the seals or bearing in teh tb did you? if you want I have a slightly optomized stock se tb I can send to you, I have no need for it.
I don't think I did any damage to the TB. I used some B-12 and some spray TB cleaner and a toothbrush. That's it.
You think a cable? Not some sort of sensor? I got under there this morning and looked around a little as it was running. I couldn't get it to stick as I revved it. I'll try again at lunchtime.
Thanks everyone.
is the throttle physically sticking or are the revs just hanging? as if the throttle is physically sticking then I would think that it is the cable
Originally posted by BrApple:
is the throttle physically sticking or are the revs just hanging? as if the throttle is physically sticking then I would think that it is the cable
I really don't know. It is intermittent. In 3rd gear as I put the clutch in the shift at about 3200 rpms, if I hold the clutch in (no gas) the rpms will climb to over 4000... Most of the time. In lower gears it doesn't do it as much.
I'm not sure what is going on. By saying sticky throttle I was trying to describe what is going on.
I doubt it is just hanging, since the revs climb. Plus it didn't do this last week.
Huhhh.... If it's not one thing it's another. Luckily for me you guys are good with advice, suggestions etc. so I can fix things myself.
I'm going to run out at lunch and see what the CEL is about. I'm guessing it will be that same as prior to my cleaning weekend, lean on both banks. But we'll see.
Thanks again!
What happens when you let the clutch back out? Does the car accelerate on its own (physically sticking). THat's what happened to me when I needed to replace the throttle cable because it was frayed.
Also, when you rev the car under the hood, keep in mind you're not using the cable to rev it. This would not allow you to replicate the problem. However, are you able to replicate the problem from the drivers seat (while parked)?
Originally posted by zgendron:
What happens when you let the clutch back out? Does the car accelerate on its own (physically sticking). THat's what happened to me when I needed to replace the throttle cable because it was frayed.
Also, when you rev the car under the hood, keep in mind you're not using the cable to rev it. This would not allow you to replicate the problem. However, are you able to replicate the problem from the drivers seat (while parked)?
No. If I shift and let the clutch out the revs do stabilize.
You are right, I hadn't thought of that: "Also, when you rev the car under the hood, keep in mind you're not using the cable to rev it."
Just got back from AutoZone. CEL code: P0122. P0122 Throttle Position Sensor circuit Low Input.
I bought one, and will get it on there prior to going home. I believe that will take care of it.
Thanks again everyone. NECEG is the best!
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by zgendron:
What happens when you let the clutch back out? Does the car accelerate on its own (physically sticking). THat's what happened to me when I needed to replace the throttle cable because it was frayed.
Also, when you rev the car under the hood, keep in mind you're not using the cable to rev it. This would not allow you to replicate the problem. However, are you able to replicate the problem from the drivers seat (while parked)?
No. If I shift and let the clutch out the revs do stabilize.
You are right, I hadn't thought of that: "Also, when you rev the car under the hood, keep in mind you're not using the cable to rev it."
Just got back from AutoZone. CEL code: P0122. P0122 Throttle Position Sensor circuit Low Input.
I bought one, and will get it on there prior to going home. I believe that will take care of it.
Thanks again everyone. NECEG is the best!
Well, any other ideas? Unless I installed it incorrectly (which I'm going to run out and check -- I looked at installation instructions at AZone's website) it still isn't working.
Would I really need to undo the neg. battery cable? I guess it won't hurt anything...
Any other ideas?
Again, thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Yes, but you don't have to unhook the negative terminal.
Just pull the only 3 amp fuse in the fuse panel under the hood. That will reset the ECU of all codes and let it relearn everything again. It will idle rough when you first start it, but after about 10 mins of driving it will return to normal. If it is fixed that is.
Pulling the fuse is easier than the negative terminal, and will not reset your clock and radio.
Originally posted by CSVT1214:
Yes, but you don't have to unhook the negative terminal.
Just pull the only 3 amp fuse in the fuse panel under the hood. That will reset the ECU of all codes and let it relearn everything again. It will idle rough when you first start it, but after about 10 mins of driving it will return to normal. If it is fixed that is.
Pulling the fuse is easier than the negative terminal, and will not reset your clock and radio.
Thanks for that suggestion. I didn't know which fuse to pull, so had been unhooking the neg... Thanks.
I pulled the TPsensor and carefully reinstalled it according to the directions on : AutoZone , and pulled that fuse to reset the computer. Still CEL is on and it is still doing the high revving thing, even though it's a little better. It's not revving as high or as often.
Any other ideas? I will try to get the codes pulled again today, see if it is something different...
Could it be the little tube I broke on the weekend? I haven't got around to repairing it yet. This is it (circled). Anyone know what this is (disregard the finger- check what is circled in red):
Thanks again. This is getting a little frustrating.
I want to say that that tube is the vacuum tube that goes into the cabin. Its this tube that feeds vacuum to the HVAC controls to work the actuators that open and close duct valves. I think the EGR valve might also get its vacuum feed from this tube. If its leaking the vacuum pressure in the system will be less than otherwise. If thats the case the EGR won't work properly. The EGR has a sensor on it to tell the computer its position and therefore the ammount of exhast gas its allowing into the intake stream. If the computer thinks its getting an incorrect reading from the EGR valve sensor it will turn on the check engine light.
If it is the case then I think that resetting the ECU will eliminate the check engine light, but it will come back on after a little while.
I'll try to fix that ASAP. Do you think that might be causing my revving problem?
Thanks!
And if that is the problem, what code will it be throwing? I didn't get a chance to get the codes pulled today, but will tomorrow.
Thanks!
I don't know much about what codes correspond with which faults. You'll find out when you get the codes checked.
Its possible that it is casuing a reving problem.
Originally posted by JSmith:
I don't know much about what codes correspond with which faults. You'll find out when you get the codes checked.
Its possible that it is casuing a reving problem.
It is still doing it. I pulled the fuse for the ECM and the CEL is off right now. I thought the problem was gone, but as the engine warmed up, it showed up again.
So more symptoms- it only does it over about 2800 rpm, if you put the clutch in then it will continue to to rev up. If it is under about 2800 rpm it will not. It also only does it as the engine warms up.
Does that help any?
Any further ideas?
I hope to run out at lunchtime and see if there are any CEL codes to pull... But AZone isn't all that close. There is a Napa closer but they laughed at me when I called and asked if they pulled CEL codes for free.
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by JSmith:
I don't know much about what codes correspond with which faults. You'll find out when you get the codes checked.
Its possible that it is casuing a revving problem.
It is still doing it. I pulled the fuse for the ECM and the CEL is off right now. I thought the problem was gone, but as the engine warmed up, it showed up again.
So more symptoms- it only does it over about 2800 rpm, if you put the clutch in then it will continue to to rev up. If it is under about 2800 rpm it will not. It also only does it as the engine warms up.
Does that help any?
Any further ideas?
I hope to run out at lunchtime and see if there are any CEL codes to pull... But AZone isn't all that close. There is a Napa closer but they laughed at me when I called and asked if they pulled CEL codes for free.
Just got back from AZone. CEL turned back on on the way there. Still showing the same : P0122 Throttle Position Sensor circuit Low Input. (From main site).
Any ideas? I already replaced the TPS last week. Could the wiring be shorted out or something? Did I break the sensor when I installed it? Could it be some other sensor?
I opened the hood this weekend and sat at the wheel. I could see the throttle cable etc. moving as I revved. I don't think it is getting bound up or anything.
Any ideas? Thanks everyone. Sorry to be a pain!
I have the same code upon installing a new TPS
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
I have the same code upon installing a new TPS
I know I'm naughty for cross posting this... I thought I'd poll a larger audience...
Did you have the 122 code prior, then you replaced the TPS and still have the code? What sort of symptoms are you having? Anything?
Stick some multi meter probes in the terminals and see if the voltage is moving or get some one with a OBD scanner and check it. If you have a SVT tb on your car they probably gave you the wrong TPS. You could also take it off and try twisting it with your fingers you can feel it if it is broken it should go nice in smooth in what ever direction your tb twists it.
all it says is low input, I'm going to guess that it means low input voltage going into the sensor, or low input signal comming into the computer from the sensor.
the simplest thing that could be wrong is that there is a dirty connection at the sensor.
Take the plug off the sensor. I believe that the side of the plug with the wires is the side of the connector with the sockets and the prongs are on the sensor.
Get some electrical contact cleaner and spray both sides of the plug to flush out and disolve any junk thats in there. Don't be shy with the cleaner and make sure you get the cleaner sprayed into the sockets real well. Then take the plug and plug it in and pull it out, do that a few times. This way as the pins go into the sockets they'll rub each other clean. Then spray it out again. If you have some bulb grease, (I call it di-electric grease) with your finger, or something, with a dab of the grease on it, fill in the sockets with the grease and then wipe a little on the rubber seal but use only enough grease to make the rubber shiny (it will help it go together easier and help keep out moisture.
Then reset the conputer to clear the code and see what happens.
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Did you have the 122 code prior, then you replaced the TPS and still have the code? What sort of symptoms are you having? Anything?
only after I put my new one in..
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Did you have the 122 code prior, then you replaced the TPS and still have the code? What sort of symptoms are you having? Anything?
only after I put my new one in..
Weird.
Well, I just had this code with my 65mm T/B. What happened was, I installed the shaft with the TPS already bolted on. Evidently, the end of the shaft was turned too far, and went into the TPS at the wrong position. Ended up ruining the TPS. Then again, it was old, so maybe it was going out anyhow. So I bought a new one, and installed it with the T/B on the car. Made sure it was on right, and no more CEL.
Take your TPS off, and stick your pinkey, or something small in there and turn that dial. See if it snaps back like the T/B plate would. If not, you may need a new TPS.
Mark
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Take your TPS off, and stick your pinkey, or something small in there and turn that dial. See if it snaps back like the T/B plate would. If not, you may need a new TPS.
Mark
if the sensor isnt working correctly, would it hinder performance or idle you think?
Originally posted by JSmith:
all it says is low input, I'm going to guess that it means low input voltage going into the sensor, or low input signal coming into the computer from the sensor.
the simplest thing that could be wrong is that there is a dirty connection at the sensor.
Take the plug off the sensor. I believe that the side of the plug with the wires is the side of the connector with the sockets and the prongs are on the sensor.
Get some electrical contact cleaner and spray both sides of the plug to flush out and dissolve any junk that is in there. Don't be shy with the cleaner and make sure you get the cleaner sprayed into the sockets real well. Then take the plug and plug it in and pull it out, do that a few times. This way as the pins go into the sockets they'll rub each other clean. Then spray it out again. If you have some bulb grease, (I call it di-electric grease) with your finger, or something, with a dab of the grease on it, fill in the sockets with the grease and then wipe a little on the rubber seal but use only enough grease to make the rubber shiny (it will help it go together easier and help keep out moisture.
Then reset the conputer to clear the code and see what happens.
Sounds good. I already put some dielectric grease in there, but didn't clean it out. I'll give it a try. THANKS!
Originally posted by svtavino:
Stick some multi meter probes in the terminals and see if the voltage is moving or get some one with a OBD scanner and check it. If you have a SVT tb on your car they probably gave you the wrong TPS. You could also take it off and try twisting it with your fingers you can feel it if it is broken it should go nice in smooth in what ever direction your tb twists it.
I don't have an SVT tb. But there was some confusion at AZone when I bought the TPS. He looked it up in the computer and went and got it and showed it to me. Looked right... Then he said something about the price being wrong, and went and got a different (Identical looking) one... I suppose it's possible that he gave me the wrong one.
How would I tell? I looked on AZone's website last night, but they seem to have the same item listed for both the regular V6 and the HO V6 (which I assume is the SVT "High Output".)
the TB on the SVT and non SVT turn in different directions.
thus the TPS turns in the wrong direction.
so if you put the wrong one on, it will break and be no good.
Originally posted by ElKy:
the TB on the SVT and non SVT turn in different directions.
thus the TPS turns in the wrong direction.
so if you put the wrong one on, it will break and be no good.
mine seems to be in perfect condition upon taking ot off and inspecting
Originally posted by ElKy:
the TB on the SVT and non SVT turn in different directions.
thus the TPS turns in the wrong direction.
so if you put the wrong one on, it will break and be no good.
Ah. Good to know.
Any idea how to tell which sensor I have? Actually I think I still have the stock one I took off and replaced.
I'll run grab it. Do the internals only turn one direction?
yes, i cant rememebr which way it turns, but i know that one of the TB gets pulled from the top and the other gets pulled from teh bottom, thus turning the TPS in a different diretion.
Originally posted by ElKy:
yes, i cant rememebr which way it turns, but i know that one of the TB gets pulled from the top and the other gets pulled from teh bottom, thus turning the TPS in a different diretion.
thats exactly how mine is turning at the second
regular V6 tbs turns clockwise pulls from the top, svt counter clockwise, pulls from the bottom.
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by JSmith:
all it says is low input, I'm going to guess that it means low input voltage going into the sensor, or low input signal coming into the computer from the sensor.
the simplest thing that could be wrong is that there is a dirty connection at the sensor.
Take the plug off the sensor. I believe that the side of the plug with the wires is the side of the connector with the sockets and the prongs are on the sensor.
Get some electrical contact cleaner and spray both sides of the plug to flush out and dissolve any junk that is in there. Don't be shy with the cleaner and make sure you get the cleaner sprayed into the sockets real well. Then take the plug and plug it in and pull it out, do that a few times. This way as the pins go into the sockets they'll rub each other clean. Then spray it out again. If you have some bulb grease, (I call it di-electric grease) with your finger, or something, with a dab of the grease on it, fill in the sockets with the grease and then wipe a little on the rubber seal but use only enough grease to make the rubber shiny (it will help it go together easier and help keep out moisture.
Then reset the conputer to clear the code and see what happens.
Sounds good. I already put some dielectric grease in there, but didn't clean it out. I'll give it a try. THANKS!
I was just out there trying to clean the connections off, regrease them etc. I turned on the engine, and noticed a very loud hissing vacuum leak. It is coming out of one of the ports on the top of the UIM. It was too dark and cold to try and repair it, but I will in the morning.
The one that is leaking was one that was broken a few years ago by a mechanic. He replaced it, but it was obviously not stock. I think the end is electrical taped...
How do I fix the leak? Just put more electrical tape on?
Is this related to my problem?
if its the one that goonz has an extra of, buy his.
if not i would recomend a new one instead of trying to tape it.
the mechanic told you he replaced it? and it is actually e-taped?
i'd be pissed!
Originally posted by ElKy:
if its the one that goonz has an extra of, buy his.
if not i would recomend a new one instead of trying to tape it.
the mechanic told you he replaced it? and it is actually e-taped?
i'd be pissed!
It is replaced. But I think he ordered the wrong model or something... It is larger in diameter than the other one. I think he got the wrong part and just ghetto'ed it out and made it work. It did work, I have not noticed this leak before, so I think the e-tape just isn't sealing it anymore. The only place it is taped is on the end that goes into the UIM. I think the tape was to seal it up.
I am a little unhappy with the fact that he ghetto'ed it out. I won't go back there anymore... OH YEAH why would I need to, I have you guys! haha
Do you think this might be related to my problem?
See photo, you can see the e-tape kind of: 
I added an arrow. Is this where that vacuum tube connects?
Goonz is this the one you have available? In the fall last year when I was at a j-yard I picked up the other tube from the only V6 they had there. This one was already taken.
Damn. Still have the P0122 code. I cleaned, wire brushed and bulb greased the TPS connection and reset the computer. The CEL came right back on. I was able to have it read... same old thing.
Can anyone give me some simple steps for testing the wiring for the TPS? I've not messed with that at all before. I think I can borrow a meter from my FIL.
Any other ideas?