I have taken the Vortech of my Contour due to the troubles it has cost me. I want the car back to those days that I could jump in and take off to wherever with no worries. The reliability has drastically decreased. Not saying this is how all Contours are with Vortechs. Just saying this is what it did to mine.
Anyways I was curious if I could get the needed brackets and other equipment to assmeble this unit on my '86 Mustang GT? I would think anything would work, but I also remember hearing someone say how the impellar on the Contours Vortech is too small.
I emailed Vortech, but they don't really like to respond to emails.
What troubles are you having Sam?
The seals are bad for the third time. I just had my third tranny installed and Just finished fixing a headgasket. Instead of tinkering with a small V6 why not play with my mod happy V8. Contour looks great and handles even better. That's all I need. Plus reliability will hopefully increase. <crosses fingers>
Originally posted by PhatSVT:
The seals are bad for the third time. I just had my third tranny installed and Just finished fixing a headgasket. Instead of tinkering with a small V6 why not play with my mod happy V8. Contour looks great and handles even better. That's all I need. Plus reliability will hopefully increase. <crosses fingers>
Go my route. lotsa hp for the stang
Have you done this or is this something that you want to do? Turbo is the best way to go for the Mustang 5.0L but it is a bit costly compared to the s/c route. Since I already have the Vortech I was just seeing if it may infact work with some customization.
Originally posted by PhatSVT:
The seals are bad for the third time. I just had my third tranny installed and Just finished fixing a headgasket. Instead of tinkering with a small V6 why not play with my mod happy V8. Contour looks great and handles even better. That's all I need. Plus reliability will hopefully increase. <crosses fingers>
Seals still went bad with the loop in the oil line? Mmm I sometimes wonder about just selling my SC and run with a mild 3L and call it good. I'll try it first though and if it gives me problems then it will be gone. How many miles are on the car and on the SC itself?
71K on the car. Had the supercharger installed with 54K. The first time I sent my supercharger in for repairs they sent me a brand new unit. That was when the car had 68K miles on it. Then I had to send the unit back in for bad seals again. I may just end up having it repaired then sell it out to a Contour/Mystique/Cougar owner. We'll see when I get some more info. Thanks.
This is a lot of work but could contribute to the seal failure. The oil drain going to the oil pan is in a poor location. On mine we tapped the actual block of the motor where the oil drains through back into the pan. This was a reccomendation from Terry because he said this would facilitate good oil flow from the SC unit, because otherwise tapping into the pan 'could' in some instances reduce or stop oil flow from the SC since it was a gravity drain. One would think that the oil pump would keep things flowing but the small vortech line restricts it enough that it is possible for oil to slow significantly. This combined with the Vortech failure to include the oil loop in the intructions is a good explaination of why seals went out in the beginning.
Also on another note Terry said that he could investegate the seals in the SC and maybe source some higher grade ones to replace with. Might be another option for you.
How do you find out about the seals? Are you regularily pulling off the intake tubes to look for oil?
Originally posted by PhatSVT:
Have you done this or is this something that you want to do? Turbo is the best way to go for the Mustang 5.0L but it is a bit costly compared to the s/c route. Since I already have the Vortech I was just seeing if it may infact work with some customization.
No not yet, I am still playing around with the idea of doing it. If you sell your s/c you can go the junkyard turbo route for your mustang. I don't know much about but I know guys are buliding them for like 2500. Check out www.turbomustangs.com they show you diffrent routes, diffrent people that provide kits. I have seen some tt kits go for base 2800 bucks. So I have found that cartech is the best manufacture and I think you stang already has forged pistons in it so that would be a plus.
If you do sell it, remember who has first dibs?
Just an FYI... last time I found oil in my SC I tracked it down to the PCV system int he car... not the SC seals.
-Mark
Originally posted by WorldTour:
Just an FYI... last time I found oil in my SC I tracked it down to the PCV system int he car... not the SC seals.
-Mark
How did you fix it? Replace the PCV valve, add a catch can?
Originally posted by kinger:
Originally posted by WorldTour:
Just an FYI... last time I found oil in my SC I tracked it down to the PCV system int he car... not the SC seals.
-Mark
How did you fix it? Replace the PCV valve, add a catch can?
Yah what he said.
replaced the PCV & cleaned out the intake of the SC & the discharge tube as best as possible.
-Mark
IIRC Speed Density doesn't like SCs? or did you convert to Mass Air?
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
IIRC Speed Density doesn't like SCs? or did you convert to Mass Air?
Speed density has no problem with forced induction.
Actually it's probably easier to tune since it has a MAP sensor to determine load instead of relying on the MAF readings which can be irregular depending on placement of the MAF on a forced induction engine.
Hey Sam. I'll buy the S/C for a couple hundred bucks. 
heheh
Bolt on simplicity leans towards mass air as you wont need to specifically recalibrate much of anything except to use and fmu or chip if you want. But speed density is what most of the DFI kits use b/c its more reliable and you dont incur the added expense of the mass air which is very picky about air turbulance/temperature.
I have the MAF conversion. Car wouldn't stay running after the 70mm TB, 1.7 roller rockers, Cobra upper/lower, BBK 1 5/8" headers, & 2 1/2" offroad x-pipe.
DemonSVT you can have my supercharger for a couple of hundred bucks if you take it off my car and fix my headgasket. What do you say?
Originally posted by PhatSVT:
DemonSVT you can have my supercharger for a couple of hundred bucks if you take it off my car and fix my headgasket. What do you say?
There will be no inside deals on my supercharger. 
I don't see how he could say no to that.
Thats not a bad deal Demon. Doing head work isn't easy on the duratech (I know!) but it is doable if you have time and the parts can be kept reasonable.
warmonger
Originally posted by PhatSVT:
DemonSVT you can have my supercharger for a couple of hundred bucks if you take it off my car and fix my headgasket. What do you say?
Front or rear bank (lemme guess... hmmm...)
front
The thing is I can't drive the car anywhere.
This is why I thought about taking the car to Bill Woods Ford and having them install the a/c condensor while they were in there. If you want I will sell you the supercharger for $1,200. The only thing the system will not include is the fuel system. Can pick that up from Vortech for $500 prolly. Still getting everything under $2,000.
I have the complete fuel system for the SC brand new, pump, FMU, misc connectors. Didn't use it for my returnless.
Originally posted by kinger:
I have the complete fuel system for the SC brand new, pump, FMU, misc connectors. Didn't use it for my returnless.
hmmmm.. interesting. So you did get it to work with returnless?
Yep! Just need a dyno tune!
Demon is returnless and doesn't need a new fuel system.
So that is $1200 AND fix your engine? The value of any good working part used usually ends up being 50% of the new price, assuming its complete and that equates to ~$1600 and minus a few hundred for the fuel parts, so maybe $1200 is a fair deal without the repairs. However, if he fully repaired the motor, that would be like a $1000 -$1200 anyway, so you might be smart to take a few hundred and the repair job and call it a day. If you were close to Texas, I would go ahead and repair it and do some enhancements to the cylinder head for the kit. (Assuming I have some more time!!!! damnit!!!!)
Anyway, that is my take on it. The benefit to you is getting the engine repaired since you'll spend most of what you make on the repairs at a shop, the benefit of someone working to earn the S/C is that they only pay for parts and labor equates to a portion of the S/C's value.
warmonger
Hell Sam, I'll do the work for the blower and give you a couple of hundred bucks! And some 91 GT seats!!
PM me!
I think the 1200 was
with labor. I gave him a pm stating that I have 1200 waiting to be paypaled at any time and I haven't heard back. Give me the word!