TRicker's Dyno Sheet/Nitrous Setup

Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

I'd just thought I would throw these up for Tyler. Here are a few shots of his engine bay setup (I apoligize for the blurryness) and also a shot of the dyno sheet from when he had it running at CarCraft Summer Nationals. You can really see the dip from when his clutch was slipping when he hit the button. However he still managed to pull 250FWHP...

nice numbers for a 75 shot (that is what he's running right?) Looks like his engine was running pretty healthy before nitrous as well...

**edit**

That coupler(?) right before the TB looks like crap...he should get that straightened out...

Why does the power drop off so fast? weird. Mine kept pulling all the way to redline.

And IIRC he is using a 100shot.

I seriously hope that isnt tuned because that curve=teh ugly.

His setup looks like it was built [censored] or he didn nothing to clean up the bay.

I would hate to pop the hood and see all that [censored] haning there.

I would love the nitrous though

Originally posted by Tourige:
Why does the power drop off so fast? weird. Mine kept pulling all the way to redline.

slipping clutch as mentioned in the original post.

Originally posted by Harrry:
His setup looks like it was built [censored] or he didn nothing to clean up the bay.

I would hate to pop the hood and see all that [censored] haning there.

I would love the nitrous though

Yea I hesitated a bit putting up pictures of his engine bay because he hand't cleaned it and he hasn't remounted the solenoids and lines the way he wanted to yet. I believe the plan is to install a custom made bracket to put one solenoid on each side of the throttle body. So I think that is why the extra line is there because he didn't know how much he was going to need in the future to do what he wanted to do.

yep. the solenoids are mounted pretty shoddy right now. as you can see the fuel solenoid rubs on the hood also. i'm going to get a custom bracket and bring it closer to the TB, with the solenoids mounted next to eachother. and as for the slip, yeah the clutch slipped hard when the button was engagged, and after 5000 rpm it was slipping hard too. i am pretty confident i can get 280-300 this time so we'll get those slips up too, when me and #49 get on the dyno

cant believe nobodys noticed the ZEX purge lol

also i want to let you know that if we race and you beat me i'm pushing more power than my clutch is recomended to hold

keep that in mind

Originally posted by TRicker:
yep. the solenoids are mounted pretty shoddy right now. as you can see the fuel solenoid rubs on the hood also. i'm going to get a custom bracket and bring it closer to the TB, with the solenoids mounted next to eachother. and as for the slip, yeah the clutch slipped hard when the button was engagged, and after 5000 rpm it was slipping hard too. i am pretty confident i can get 280-300 this time so we'll get those slips up too, when me and #49 get on the dyno

tricker where is a link to your kit. I am intersted in learning about it.

Espceailly how much it will cost me to buy one.

let me look it up real quick. it's just a ford EFI stage 1 kit, with the shark nozzle and 10 lb bottle for options. and yes, i did buy a zex purge and zex bottle heater because they are half the price. the purge is fine, but the zex bottle heater does not hold the bottle at a constant pressure, it just gets hot and stays there, and turn off and on once in a while. the NX heater is twice the price but it will turn off and on depending on the bottle pressure. i recommend that, as most people that spent the money on it do also. let me get that link though

that doesnt make any sense you say that one is way better than the other one but in both discriptions in different words you say that both heaters warm the bottle to temp, shut off and then turn back on... so what is it doing wrong by shutting off and turning back on its doing its job as long as the 2 temp sensors are in the correct position

sorry i'll explain a little better.

the NX setup has a switch in it that will turn off the heater when the bottle is achieved it's ideal pressure. it will turn back on if the pressure starts to drop.

ZEX's setup just turns on for (give or take) 5 minutes, and off for 2 minutes, and back on. it doesnt have the switch in it like the NX fire and ice heater.

i dont like zex myself, but a purge is a purge. i thought the bottle heater would be fine, and it is, if you want to check the bottle pressure constantly.

so the zex one doesnt have temperature sensors? is that what your trying to say?

back during my nitrous days... everyone always said nx heater was pressure regulated, and the NOS was temp regulated. I had a compucar that I would just turn on and off...I had a nitrous gauge to see what pressure I was at...

it sound like zex just turns on and off by itself...nothing being regulated.

IIRC the Zex bottle warmer turns off when it gets optimal temp and once the temp drops, then it heats up again.