I own a garrett T04 that i would like to install in my csvt. I have found a performance shop to install the t04 for 600. I dont know too much about boosting but, I wanted to know if anyone has tried or know if it will work to install a turbo at the stock collector pipe area?? will I have lag from hell?? will it work?? I need a location to mount this beast. If anything im sure the shop will custom fabricate the t-setup to make it work for more $$$. thanks guys and girls
I am located in new port richey ,fl
I dont have any idea if there is a place in FL since im not familar with the area. Perhaps someone thats closer could give you some recommendations.
As far as running it off the stock y-pipe, there has been some talk about modifying the stock y-pipe before. Heres some convo i pulled from a previous thread:
Yeah, like Demon said you can use the MSDS's or maybe the new Mazda 6 headers from Wagner (they're SS!) to make a custom turbo setup. All you'd need to do is cut the elbow from the stock y-pipe so it's still a 90�° piece, then rotate it in the slip flange so it points towards the pass wheel. Then connect the rest of the stock y-pippe to that so it goes around the oil pan the the front y-pipe. (so essentially exhaust flows in the opposite dirction in the pipe compared to stock.) Then cut the elbow from the front eade and rotate it 180�° to face the drivers side of the car and bring that and the pipe from the back header together into a 2 to 1 collector. Straight after the collector weld on a short flex pipe and then go 90�° an up to the battery location and weld on a turbo flange. You can get it from there. The down pipe I would route siilar to ADC to go under the trans and back to the stock cat-back flange.
A T4 is a pretty big turbo, and might have significant lag. What kind of power goals are you looking at? A T3/T4 has already shown its capable of making 500 crank hp. My T3/T4 reaches positive boost pressure at about 1500-1750 rpms.
yes i would like a t3/t4 kit in which i have seen on ebay for about 900 ( for my 95 integra motor ) but the money situation. i got this t4 for free from a buddy never used.
Well, I can tell you right now, even with a DIY turbo kit job, its probably still going to run you a couple thousand.
Perhaps the few people that have done it themselves will chime in with ballpark prices.
see im stuck in between pros and cons on my 95 integra and my 98csvt. money wise as well as probability and expense. for my csvt i have a shop to install the t4 for 600. for the integra theres plenty of ricers to help me out. i would prefer the csvt boosting since the integra ia automatic.
Doing it yourself? And correctly? With an intercooler?
Say 2800 in bare parts, $3-500 in miscellaneous services and nickel/dime [censored]. No tuning.
If you are carefull, don't care about using slightly used parts and are creative you could conceivably do everything within $2500 and you do all the labor. Knowing what I know now I could anyway.
If you aren't smart and experienced (and believing a $600 quote makes me wonder here
) and therefore need help with the labor and design, then you can easily tack on another $1000. If someone does it, Figure $5000 if you source the parts and they do the labor....and they like you.
take note that your going to need a better clutch and an LSD otherwise your differential will detonate and you'll hate yourself even more.
I know a guy who has a bunch of parts for turbocharging a SVTC and wants to get sell all of them.... aka me
What are the specs on the T4?
by looking at it:
part#A41956
serial#000292
model#T-0489
A/R 1.32 thats all i see. I do have a spec stage 3 clutch. a 3.L swap with 2.5 heads.
Ohhh ... this ought to be fun to watch ... get video of with the hood up when you start the car with the turbo on for the first time
3.0L block + 2.5L heads = CR ~11.2:1 = Not very boost friendly
See i never knew my comp. ratio. so i guess i either make it a full 3.0L or i cant boost the SCUNT!! how about a simple 75 shot of nos, or if theres another way thats cheap to get power??
Originally posted by scuntSVTT:
by looking at it:
part#A41956
serial#000292
model#T-0489
A/R 1.32 thats all i see. I do have a spec stage 3 clutch. a 3.L swap with 2.5 heads.
T4 1.32 A/R? 
The Aspect Ratio of the turbine housing is reportedly a T4 1.34. That is enormous. I don't think a 3.0 will get it up to full spool.
If you don't know what A/R is and how it relates to making power with a turbo, don't even think about trying to turbo your own car ... unless like I said, be sure to video tape the first time you try and run it ... with the hood open.
Considering the CR of the engine, I would suggest Nitrous ... all the kids are doing it
You could save some money and buy my Turbo kit on ebay in two weeks ! Taking the whole kit off on Thursday. Complete setup. ( Big 16G turbo; all piping; RFL BOV; AZ Chip; SAFC; 30lbs injectors) Starting at $1700 on ebay, or build it yourself for about $2500-$3000. Have fun and good luck. -B.
Originally posted by BlackwidowSVTT:
... AZ Chip; SAFC ...
well o.k. my mind has been made up due to all the above conditions. I thank of of you guys for the help on this project. would rather have a turbo svt than a turbo integra but for the money the mechanical work and do-ability i think that the integra would better suit me for adding a turbo. The only problem is it's AUTOMATIC, so i have to invest in a 5 spd. i feel like im am on a scale with a decision to make and with you guys again for helping me make it.
Originally posted by fastcougar:
Ohhh ... this ought to be fun to watch ... get video of with the hood up when you start the car with the turbo on for the first time
3.0L block + 2.5L heads = CR ~11.2:1 = Not very boost friendly
But you know that is VERY easy to fix with a little chamber work!
Originally posted by fastcougar:
Originally posted by BlackwidowSVTT:
... AZ Chip; SAFC ...
LMAO, two for two today. The SAFC can be used on top of a chip for minor adjustments so that you don't have to pay for a reburn. Same exact thing I did for two years on my turbo with my Streetflight chip and the eManage. Once the chip was in the ballpark I was able to fine tune it with the emanage pretty easily. In fact the emanage is easier to do final dyno tuning with than just reburning a chip or reflashing your own PCM if you have a racer pack.
You also get different data from the the datalogging of the emanage than you can get with just an OBD scanner or the software.
Chamber work = pull the heads and send them off ... it's obvious this guy couldn't port the chambers if he is asking for elemental turbo questions. No offense, it is what it is. So, replace head gaskets & bolts, timing cover gaskets & valve cover gaskets ... on top of the porting work.
AZ Chip & SAFC = waste ... just get a damn XCal2 and be done with it ... full tuneability for about the same price. Nowhere does he mention an eManage
I think I have very valid points and from a cost concisions point of view, I thought that you of all people would agree.
I'm just playing devils advocate.
And yes, all that about the chamber work costs is correct so your point IS valid.
Only thing, the SAFC corrects the maf the same way the emanage does so it would work similar, though the emanage has other ways of adding fuel when necessary that the safc does not.
In all honesty, you can get a basic chip for a fair price, maybe $200-$250 and an safc used might be $50 into the $200 for new so it still less than the PRP and about the same as the XCal2 with a tune. With just the xcal and a tune you have to pay for tune updates anyway.
Don't mind me I was just trying to be argumentative this morning. lol
so theres still hope on my project? no offense i probably could do a port and polish, but how much would this run me to send the heads to a machine shop and all the works to get this project going?? i just got a price at a junkyard for a 5spd for my integra 950.00 thats outta the quest. as you know money is kinda a issue but its gotta be wotrh the money to me to do this project.
Originally posted by warmonger:
I'm just playing devils advocate.
And yes, all that about the chamber work costs is correct so your point IS valid.
Only thing, the SAFC corrects the maf the same way the emanage does so it would work similar, though the emanage has other ways of adding fuel when necessary that the safc does not.
In all honesty, you can get a basic chip for a fair price, maybe $200-$250 and an safc used might be $50 into the $200 for new so it still less than the PRP and about the same as the XCal2 with a tune. With just the xcal and a tune you have to pay for tune updates anyway.
Don't mind me I was just trying to be argumentative this morning. lol
Well I already had the SAFC. So, free SAFC and a chip form AZ dyno worked great for me. Also, I'm at 5000 ft. in elevation so it was a guessing game for AZ Dyno to get a chip that would work well here, my SAFC made up the difference. That's why its called a "custom turbo kit
" -B.
Originally posted by scuntSVTT:
so theres still hope on my project? no offense i probably could do a port and polish, but how much would this run me to send the heads to a machine shop and all the works to get this project going?? i just got a price at a junkyard for a 5spd for my integra 950.00 thats outta the quest. as you know money is kinda a issue but its gotta be wotrh the money to me to do this project.
If 950 is too much...you could never come close to anything.
For example...if you got a turbo to work on your car and made any power...you'd break the diff. Labor alone is close to your 950 for a clutch job.
i bet i could find you a 5 speed for that integra for 100$ on honda tech right now.
however, why would you wanna boost a pencil rod honda motor anyways. turbo the contour, put a good clutch in it, and a LSD, and happy tire buying
Originally posted by TRicker:
why would you wanna boost a pencil rod honda motor anyways.
Because they make good power doing it. 
those B18 motors are very strong. Very easy to work on and the price is cheap compared to the SCUNTS we all own and drive. I really want it to be worth the money and if theres a chance of something breaking easily due to the oil starvation that these motors have ( im on the 3rd motor) and the p.o.s trans i would feel comfortable.
Originally posted by scuntSVTT:
so theres still hope on my project? no offense i probably could do a port and polish, but how much would this run me to send the heads to a machine shop and all the works to get this project going?? i just got a price at a junkyard for a 5spd for my integra 950.00 thats outta the quest. as you know money is kinda a issue but its gotta be wotrh the money to me to do this project.
There's always hope. But $950 and a $2200 turbo kit for an integra is still a bit cheaper though not by much as you have to pay to convert it to an mtx also. If you were doing the work yourself the integra would be easier and a bit cheaper.
I don't know whats the right answer but a turbo on a stock 2.5SVT is definitely doable as well as a 3L. Also, the stock diff may break but you can upgrade that at the same time. Many people take quite a bit of time to do their projects on this board so they can do up the things that need to be done.
You can buy a quaife equiped trans for around $2K from Terry Haines that will be bullet proof, then figure the $3000 for used turbo hardware, etc.
thank you for the info. i would be building the integra motor with the turbo kit ( 950. for kit) with my buddy. the only set back is the mtx. 950. for a mtx is crazy, so im looking for a car like a gti, supra, rx-7, skyline, etc... some where along those lines. this way i would be getting a car thats got a turbo in it already. this may sound odd being that i wont spend the money to mod my car but will spend thousands more on a car. well ill tell you why: im looking to get a car new or used but its gotta be for the right money.,So if i get something I want then ill get everything i want.
Originally posted by scuntSVTT:
the only set back is the mtx. 950. for a mtx is crazy, so im looking for a car like a gti, supra, rx-7, skyline, etc... some where along those lines.
Those two sentances back to back made me LOL.
It's idiots like this guy that are killing the 3L and FI forums for me.
Sell your turbo and buy the Thomas Knight supercharger. He's based out of Florida.
wait a minute guys! Im not trashing this site in any way! seems like im getting the help that i need to make my decision. im looking for any possible way that would suit me to keep this csvt. I would like to install a turbo, but with all of your input theres no way that it will work. So im going to plan "B" which is 75-100 shot of nos.
You have big dreams and no money. 960$ for an MTX is nothing....the supra 6 speed rrans will cost you about 7k +
The STi trans about 4-5k not including axles.
Please get with reality before you post again.
A Supra V-160 transmission in good working condition can be had for $3000. You point is still made though.
blackcoog had that thomas knight blower. said it was junk, basically. then they sent him one with a larger compressor and it wouldnt even fit in the car. buy the (newest updated) vortech, or spray on it. gota love that n20
Originally posted by TRicker:
blackcoog had that thomas knight blower. said it was junk, basically. then they sent him one with a larger compressor and it wouldnt even fit in the car. buy the (newest updated) vortech, or spray on it. gota love that n20
he got it to fit. . .
Thomas Knight also said that they will only be using the updated compressor because most people going this route already have a 3.0L and need the extra cfm.
Originally posted by Keyser:
A Supra V-160 transmission in good working condition can be had for $3000. You point is still made though.
Do tell!? That made things seem a bit more affordable...in theory.
Quote:
blackcoog had that thomas knight blower. said it was junk, basically. then they sent him one with a larger compressor and it wouldnt even fit in the car. buy the (newest updated) vortech, or spray on it. gota love that n20
I may have been a little too pissed off about the kit not fitting when I talked to you about the kit on Friday. I was able to shim the compressor up a bit so it would fit in the car Saturday. It still has some bugs but I'm slowing working through all of them. I still don't like the pulley setup and it needs a tensioner. If he fixed those issues then it would be much better.
After getting everything worked out I took the car for a drive and it's in need of a tune pretty bad. It's really rich at idle up to 3k and then when the secondaries open up it starts to pull like mad and goes lean. I let off right when it started going lean. I need to get my larger injectors in there and fuel pump and then try it again.
Originally posted by j99coug:
Originally posted by TRicker:
blackcoog had that thomas knight blower. said it was junk, basically. then they sent him one with a larger compressor and it wouldnt even fit in the car. buy the (newest updated) vortech, or spray on it. gota love that n20
he got it to fit. . .
Wow you talking trash. lol
He never said it was junk, he said it was perfect for a standard 2.5. It wasn;t pushing enough air for the 3.0. That is why he asked for a larger compressor. Where in his statement does that mean it's junk?
I don;t really like how the kit turned out even though i want to order one. Since it is a new kit we must refrain from talking trash about something till we see some numbers produced and bugs worked out of it.
Tricker are you from neco?
no, i have a contour, and i live near blackcoog. talked to him at car craft breifly, and heard from the other contour guys he was having problems. i bought a motor from him, etc. i'm DEFINATELY not talking trash to chris, he's the man. thats all i gota say. (lol i almost gave him the tailgate to my dad's beater blazer, thing almost fell off when we put the block on it)
Originally posted by Blackcoog:
Quote:
blackcoog had that thomas knight blower. said it was junk, basically. then they sent him one with a larger compressor and it wouldnt even fit in the car. buy the (newest updated) vortech, or spray on it. gota love that n20
I may have been a little too pissed off about the kit not fitting when I talked to you about the kit on Friday. I was able to shim the compressor up a bit so it would fit in the car Saturday. It still has some bugs but I'm slowing working through all of them. I still don't like the pulley setup and it needs a tensioner. If he fixed those issues then it would be much better.
After getting everything worked out I took the car for a drive and it's in need of a tune pretty bad. It's really rich at idle up to 3k and then when the secondaries open up it starts to pull like mad and goes lean. I let off right when it started going lean. I need to get my larger injectors in there and fuel pump and then try it again.
I got a standing offer to anyone who wants me to tune their car: Pay for the SCT Code for me to use on your PCM so that I can add it to my PRP, and I will tune your car to run correctly, even if it takes multiple attempts. I figure I can do it in few tune attempts as long as you provide datalogging and A/F data as well as use the correct fuel management components. To add a tune to my PRP it will only cost $200 which is definitely cheaper than a tuning shop does it.
PM me if you or anyone is interested and wants it done.
wait..... what do you have PRP on? i thought you sold the contour?
eh.............oooooohhhhhh, another one????
No, the PRP tuning software is separate and can tune any car for that code. THe XCAL and custom tunes are what go with a car.
so your not driving a contour anymore? /cry
Quote:
I got a standing offer to anyone who wants me to tune their car: Pay for the SCT Code for me to use on your PCM so that I can add it to my PRP, and I will tune your car to run correctly, even if it takes multiple attempts. I figure I can do it in few tune attempts as long as you provide datalogging and A/F data as well as use the correct fuel management components. To add a tune to my PRP it will only cost $200 which is definitely cheaper than a tuning shop does it.
PM me if you or anyone is interested and wants it done.
That's a great offer but after spending money on the tuning package I'd really like to dig into it and get my own tune going. If you can create XCal files it would be a good deal for those that just have the XCal and need another tune.
FYI: I pointed the compressor on the Thomas Knight kit down and drilled a 3.5 inch hole in the fender well. The frame rail is just below so I'm going to run a 90 off the compressor and move toward the front of the car just above the frame rail a bit. Then turn out toward the driver's side once I get away from were the two frame rail sections connect together. The 90's won't be optimal but there isn't much else I can do. I'll get some pictures of the holes once I get it figured out. I'm waiting for some more piping and couplers now so I can start hooking things up.
Well yeah, but once you have a good starting tune so the engine doesn't blow up or run bad, then you can take it from there and try everything out in order to learn your software. In fact, you can consider it as starting at a KNOWN POINT in your tuning and then you'll always know where you are in your own tunes. It can save you from trying something that is harmfull due to inexperience because you can reference the working tune.
It is pretty much the same as buying a PRP and xcal from a dealer, and then paying them some extra $ to do the first ballpark tune for you....Only better because I have been able to tune this platform successfully both F/I and NA; whereas with FI engines only ADC has any skills and not only are they far away, they are hit and miss sometimes too.
Not only that, I'm a lot more reachable than any other tuner because I'm a participating member of the forum, and for a while yet I'll be in the eastern USA. See, just look at all the benny's.
Of course what I get out of it is the code for myself so that later I can tune more cars.
I can guarantee that if the car is otherwise mechanically and electrically sound, and if you listen to my recommendations on system layout, that I can tune it to run well.
Pssst ... tuning section is up on NECO now
Tom, I might take you up on your tuning offer once I get my car running again
.
Aaron
