So I searched, and maybe I just missed this...
How close to the throttle body should I mount the nozzle? It's a 75hp wet shot, if that matters. Thanks all!
I drilled a hole in my MAF for my nozzle. It's about 10" away from the TB.
you can out it in the intake tube, i know some have drilled into the TB to do it too.
Just far enough back to get a good distribution of N2O and fuel before it hits the divided upper intake plenum.
I think after the throttlebody is too close. In the accordion or in the outlet of the maf sounds fine for a basic kit.
If you wanted better performance you could run dual nozzles, one in each inlet of the manifold right where it splits. This keeps less thermal expansion from the N20 heating up outside the manifold and will equally divide it between banks. It would be more efficient on all fronts.
Instead of one 75shot nozzle you can run twin nozzles with 35 shots and drill them into the manifold right at the corners. Make sure the lines going to each nozzle are exactly equal in length for both fuel and N20 as compared from bank-to-bank, and as short as possible.
Don't forget the bottle heater, fuel pressure cut-out safety valve, and probably a electric cut-off at the bottle for the best safety.
Originally posted by warmonger:
Just far enough back to get a good distribution of N2O and fuel before it hits the divided upper intake plenum.
I think after the throttlebody is too close. In the accordion or in the outlet of the maf sounds fine for a basic kit.
If you wanted better performance you could run dual nozzles, one in each inlet of the manifold right where it splits. This keeps less thermal expansion from the N20 heating up outside the manifold and will equally divide it between banks. It would be more efficient on all fronts.
Instead of one 75shot nozzle you can run twin nozzles with 35 shots and drill them into the manifold right at the corners. Make sure the lines going to each nozzle are exactly equal in length for both fuel and N20 as compared from bank-to-bank, and as short as possible.
Don't forget the bottle heater, fuel pressure cut-out safety valve, and probably a electric cut-off at the bottle for the best safety.
If your going to drill into the UIM might as well do a proper Direct Port and drill into the UIM above each port and run 6 different nozzles.
I just dont think it will clear the stock hood.
Originally posted by Tourige:
If your going to drill into the UIM might as well do a proper Direct Port and drill into the UIM above each port and run 6 different nozzles.
I just dont think it will clear the stock hood.
Thank God Tourige posted in the F/I forum! I now feel 100% dumber for reading your post. 
Mark
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by Tourige:
If your going to drill into the UIM might as well do a proper Direct Port and drill into the UIM above each port and run 6 different nozzles.
I just dont think it will clear the stock hood.
Thank God Tourige posted in the F/I forum! I now feel 100% dumber for reading your post.
Mark
Um.. werd?
Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by Tourige:
If your going to drill into the UIM might as well do a proper Direct Port and drill into the UIM above each port and run 6 different nozzles.
I just dont think it will clear the stock hood.
Thank God Tourige posted in the F/I forum! I now feel 100% dumber for reading your post.
Mark
Um.. werd?
Um.. Know what you're talking about before posting? 
I can't wait to see what advice you give over on SVTP when you get your Cobra. 
Mark
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by Tourige:
If your going to drill into the UIM might as well do a proper Direct Port and drill into the UIM above each port and run 6 different nozzles.
I just dont think it will clear the stock hood.
Thank God Tourige posted in the F/I forum! I now feel 100% dumber for reading your post.
Mark
Um.. werd?
Um.. Know what you're talking about before posting?
I can't wait to see what advice you give over on SVTP when you get your Cobra.
Mark
LMAO!!!!
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by Tourige:
If your going to drill into the UIM might as well do a proper Direct Port and drill into the UIM above each port and run 6 different nozzles.
I just dont think it will clear the stock hood.
Thank God Tourige posted in the F/I forum! I now feel 100% dumber for reading your post.
Mark
Um.. werd?
Um.. Know what you're talking about before posting?
I can't wait to see what advice you give over on SVTP when you get your Cobra.
Mark
Can you at least tell me why im so crazy rather than just shutting me down, Honestly. If im wrong tell me what im wrong on, dont just say im wrong.
Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by Tourige:
If your going to drill into the UIM might as well do a proper Direct Port and drill into the UIM above each port and run 6 different nozzles.
I just dont think it will clear the stock hood.
Thank God Tourige posted in the F/I forum! I now feel 100% dumber for reading your post.
Mark
Um.. werd?
Um.. Know what you're talking about before posting?
I can't wait to see what advice you give over on SVTP when you get your Cobra.
Mark
Can you at least tell me why im so crazy rather than just shutting me down, Honestly. If im wrong tell me what im wrong on, dont just say im wrong.
Oooooh, so YOU of all people want an explanation for someone just blurting out a random insult, such as RICE?? Well, in this case, you said if you were going to tap into the UIM, then you would do a proper install with direct port. What is NOT proper with a single jet/nozzle? You sound as if you're trying to correct Warmonger, somebody who has actually run nitrous on a Contour. If you know what you're talking about, and have something useful to chime in with, please do so. If you're posting to be a smartass, or want to give advice on something you have no experience with, don't bother.
Mark
IIRC Direct Port - Each port gets its own nozzle.
Im not trying to "Correct" Warmonger as i know he knows more about these cars than i ever will. Im just Going on what i know as direct port, Ive never heard of someone using 2 nozzles for Direct port, every one i have seen has a nozzle for each port.
Sorry, i didnt mean to rock the boat, just throwing ideas out there for the thread starter.
You're correct, in that a direct port has one nozzle/jet going to each cylinder. Fortunately for us crammed engine compartment people, it's not the only proper setup.
Mark
Originally posted by Tourige:
IIRC Direct Port - Each port gets its own nozzle.
Im not trying to "Correct" Warmonger as i know he knows more about these cars than i ever will. Im just Going on what i know as direct port, Ive never heard of someone using 2 nozzles for Direct port, every one i have seen has a nozzle for each port.
Sorry, i didnt mean to rock the boat, just throwing ideas out there for the thread starter.
Tom wasn't referring to a direct port setup, he was just stating that you may want to use two seperate nozzles for the fuel and nitrous. Personally, I used a Shark Nozzle, I believe made by NZ. Worked fine for me and I would stick with that for simplicity sake.
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by Tourige:
IIRC Direct Port - Each port gets its own nozzle.
Im not trying to "Correct" Warmonger as i know he knows more about these cars than i ever will. Im just Going on what i know as direct port, Ive never heard of someone using 2 nozzles for Direct port, every one i have seen has a nozzle for each port.
Sorry, i didnt mean to rock the boat, just throwing ideas out there for the thread starter.
Tom wasn't referring to a direct port setup, he was just stating that you may want to use two seperate nozzles for the fuel and nitrous. Personally, I used a Shark Nozzle, I believe made by NZ. Worked fine for me and I would stick with that for simplicity sake.
Thats not what he was saying, he is saying you drill 2 35 shot nozzles into the UIM Corners. I think you mis read his post(running a different nitrous and fuel line to different corners= 
)
Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by Tourige:
IIRC Direct Port - Each port gets its own nozzle.
Im not trying to "Correct" Warmonger as i know he knows more about these cars than i ever will. Im just Going on what i know as direct port, Ive never heard of someone using 2 nozzles for Direct port, every one i have seen has a nozzle for each port.
Sorry, i didnt mean to rock the boat, just throwing ideas out there for the thread starter.
Tom wasn't referring to a direct port setup, he was just stating that you may want to use two seperate nozzles for the fuel and nitrous. Personally, I used a Shark Nozzle, I believe made by NZ. Worked fine for me and I would stick with that for simplicity sake.
Thats not what he was saying, he is saying you drill 2 35 shot nozzles into the UIM Corners. I think you mis read his post(running a different nitrous and fuel line to different corners= )
saw that but forgot about it. I understand his reasoning for it, but don't think its really needed for anything under ~100hp shot. Some people worry about the nitrous/fuel mixture hitting that 'wall' and it fall out of the air and puddling in the intake. I think his idea is a decent one, but doubt anyone will every try it.
Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by warmonger:
Just far enough back to get a good distribution of N2O and fuel before it hits the divided upper intake plenum.
I think after the throttlebody is too close. In the accordion or in the outlet of the maf sounds fine for a basic kit.
If you wanted better performance you could run dual nozzles, one in each inlet of the manifold right where it splits. This keeps less thermal expansion from the N20 heating up outside the manifold and will equally divide it between banks. It would be more efficient on all fronts.
Instead of one 75shot nozzle you can run twin nozzles with 35 shots and drill them into the manifold right at the corners. Make sure the lines going to each nozzle are exactly equal in length for both fuel and N20 as compared from bank-to-bank, and as short as possible.
Don't forget the bottle heater, fuel pressure cut-out safety valve, and probably a electric cut-off at the bottle for the best safety.
If your going to drill into the UIM might as well do a proper Direct Port and drill into the UIM above each port and run 6 different nozzles.
I just dont think it will clear the stock hood.
Agreed that direct port is the "best" if you mean most power output available, yet all methods are "proper" if setup correctly. However, direct port is much more complicated than a single jet/nozzle setup. There is a point of diminishing returns with any setup and that would be where the cost and complexity begin to exceed the benefits, and I think the direct port is beyond this point. Each proper method has its merrits but depends on what is important to the designer.
Let me summarize why:
There is nothing wrong with the single jet/nozzle mounted in the intake, it works well. However it has the limitation of having to being far up the intake tract which gives the nitrous more time to absorb heat and expand before getting to the cylinders. More heat and expansion upstream = less power downstream (not that you're lacking when you are running N20). So optimally you want to get closer. Good mixing is more important that having a cooler charge and that can only be accomplished far enough away from the split on the UIM. So you're stuck.
Direct port for an engine like ours would require twin lines per cylinder for a wet setup, a setup that I personally think is the best. A dry setup at least one line per cylinder. That can easily be done UNDER the UIM with a gasket spacer! So I don't think hood clearance is your issue, the issue is the costs.
And why do it? Just to get the most efficient version of a 100 shot maybe? Not worth it. Noone is nitrous dragging this engine on a built motor where a 250shot or something could be used in a rear wheel drive car. 100shot is about it usually. <Gosh, when I think of how easy it would be to implement so many cool ideas when money ISN'T an object, I just want to be rich>
So my idea was a compromise that satisfies three assumpitions:
- closer to the cylinder by almost a foot and a half equals more time in the engine absorbing heat and expanding=more power for a given shot.
- even distribution, twin nozzle/jet setups so that each bank gets its own half of the fuel/nitrous mixture
- Fairly simple and straight forward as it would require only two brass T fittings at where it splits to both nozzles, and an extra jet/nozzle fitting. Added costs less than $100 easy!
So the most expensive part of the wet kit is the jets/nozzle parts assuming you've got to have a fuel and nitrous solenoid ANYWAY to get it to work. So whatever the jet/nozzle cost is, you would go x2 on the cost for this idea...........as opposed to x6 for the direct setup.
Now picture the last part, by doing direct port into the UIM you greatly increase the cost and only save yourself a couple of inches of travel distance for the nitrous and air. Better to leave it alone. The twin jet setup makes up most of the distance already and is cheaper and simpler to setup.
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by Tourige:
IIRC Direct Port - Each port gets its own nozzle.
Im not trying to "Correct" Warmonger as i know he knows more about these cars than i ever will. Im just Going on what i know as direct port, Ive never heard of someone using 2 nozzles for Direct port, every one i have seen has a nozzle for each port.
Sorry, i didnt mean to rock the boat, just throwing ideas out there for the thread starter.
Tom wasn't referring to a direct port setup, he was just stating that you may want to use two seperate nozzles for the fuel and nitrous. Personally, I used a Shark Nozzle, I believe made by NZ. Worked fine for me and I would stick with that for simplicity sake.
Thats not what he was saying, he is saying you drill 2 35 shot nozzles into the UIM Corners. I think you mis read his post(running a different nitrous and fuel line to different corners= )
saw that but forgot about it. I understand his reasoning for it, but don't think its really needed for anything under ~100hp shot. Some people worry about the nitrous/fuel mixture hitting that 'wall' and it fall out of the air and puddling in the intake. I think his idea is a decent one, but doubt anyone will every try it.
You're probably right.
I only put forth the idea because I think the savings in thermal expansion might be fairly significant. I'm thinking a split 50shot that goes into the manifold with good mixing is probably worth a 75shot upstream in net power, or close to it. If I'm right, that means means you could get what...maybe 30% more time on each bottle fill to go just as fast? It'd pay for itself in a month, probably a week for me! 
Well i don't know exaclty how much power i put down with the 75/100/125 shots, but i do know with a 125 shot i trapped 110mph.
I have a regular 2.5 V6 without SVT cams. Now it does have pretty much all bolt-ons, so i figure i prolly got 160ish whp. At the very most 170...AT THE MOST! So if you add 125hp to that i got 295. Based off of my 110mph trap speed i would guess that the hp can't be too far off.
Hmmm...maybe i will have to go to the dyno soon...i would actually like to know what i can put down.
My thinking for placing mine in the MAF is to let the fual/nitrous atomize better before hitting the divider and going around the bend in the UIM. Even if i do loose a little hp because of it, i feel a little safer knowing i don't have the nozzle really close to the divider. Like other people have voiced concerns about, i don't want all that fuel to hit the divider and fall down...i think it would be better for the motor to have it be further from it.
But i really don't know all that much about nitrous...i have only had it for just over a year....averaging just over a bottle every two weeks
... i get a little crazy with it sometimes.
Whew.... um.... (mostly) good post, all!
I have a full NOS powershot kit, so I have a nozzle that mixes the fuel/nitrous correctly... for simplicity's sake, I think I'll just mount it partway down the accordian tube (which is actually a Weapon R hard pipe on my car). As others have stated, I'll risk a slight power loss in order to assure a good mix.
Fuel pressure safety switch, window switch, and purge are on the way. The bottle heater will be a later addition... I live in a constantly-warm climate (Los Angeles), but it's still a good idea.
if you guys are mounting your nitrous before your MAF sensor your asking for problems. your car will sense denser air and try to adjust for it. causing your car to possibly be run more rich and put you in danger of a backfire.
warmongers idea is actually what i am going to do, but i am going to use 4 nozzles, as a two stage system (two nozzles per stage) right after the throttle body in the UIM, where it is still one (before it starts to split into six different ports)
by doing this, no i dont actually have a direct port setup. but, like warmonger stated, i want a bit of distance to let the nitrous and fuel mix together properly, it is better surge resistance. the only reason i am taking my setup off of the intake and past the throttle body is so that the nitrous can enter the intake manifold where it is actually a larger area than the intake tube. the nitrous/fuel mixture also doesnt have to pass over and under the throttle body. his setup will cost you the price of 2 hard lines and fittings, another nozzle and two of the same jets of your choice. my first two nozzles (first stage) will be 2 35 shot jets. my second stage, (run off a button) will run two 50 shots. that will equal a 70 shot for the first stage (2700 rpm to 4500 rpm) and a 100 shot (4500 rpm to redline) equaling a 170 shot (woops i said 200 earlier) the only thing i am worried about with that setup is if the nitrous is going to go into both lines at the same pressure. i guess it's all going to the same place so it doesnt matter so much.
with the stock SVT Upper intake manifold, there is one downfall. the cylynders furthest from the throttle body get there nitrous feed slightly slower. direct port would even it all out, that is something to keep in mind. i am not sure if the 3L upper intake will fit on the 2.5 lower manifolds but if it would it would be much easier to get even nitrous flow off of that, from the looks of it.
my .02 cents for anyone that wants it
Originally posted by TRicker:
if you guys are mounting your nitrous before your MAF sensor your asking for problems. your car will sense denser air and try to adjust for it. causing your car to possibly be run more rich and put you in danger of a backfire.
I never said it was BEFORE the MAF...i just said it was in the MAF. It is actually...right beside/slightly behind the sensor on the TB side of it. There is no nitrous actually going into the sensor...i made sure of that.
yea, thats a generally knowledgable thing. I don't think anyone is running the nozzle preMAF.
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
yea, thats a generally knowledgable thing. I don't think anyone is running the nozzle preMAF.
There is actually, I believe an NX dry kit out there that has a ring that goes around the MAF in the front and sprays in it, to 'trick' the MAF to read a denser air reading, and adjust the fuel accordingly.
While this thread is still jumping... is there a generally recommended place to tap for fuel? Also, I already have an aftermarket fuel pressure sender hooked up for my Autometer gauge; if I install a tee at the end of that line, and mount the safety switch there, will it read correctly? AAAAND what pressure should I get?
Thanks all!
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
yea, thats a generally knowledgable thing. I don't think anyone is running the nozzle preMAF.
There is actually, I believe an NX dry kit out there that has a ring that goes around the MAF in the front and sprays in it, to 'trick' the MAF to read a denser air reading, and adjust the fuel accordingly.
I forget the name of it, but it's part of the air filter. It sprays in at the top of the cone.
Originally posted by Matty K:
While this thread is still jumping... is there a generally recommended place to tap for fuel? Also, I already have an aftermarket fuel pressure sender hooked up for my Autometer gauge; if I install a tee at the end of that line, and mount the safety switch there, will it read correctly? AAAAND what pressure should I get?
Thanks all!
at the shrader valve.
Originally posted by Matty K:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
yea, thats a generally knowledgable thing. I don't think anyone is running the nozzle preMAF.
There is actually, I believe an NX dry kit out there that has a ring that goes around the MAF in the front and sprays in it, to 'trick' the MAF to read a denser air reading, and adjust the fuel accordingly.
I forget the name of it, but it's part of the air filter. It sprays in at the top of the cone.
this one
Yea, I remember seeing that before. What I meant by my last comment was that the people you hear about on CEG with our platform cars, generally know to place the nozzle after the MAF. It's a question that comes up now and again (as I'm sure you know) and people are always directed to place it after the MAF.
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by Matty K:
While this thread is still jumping... is there a generally recommended place to tap for fuel? Also, I already have an aftermarket fuel pressure sender hooked up for my Autometer gauge; if I install a tee at the end of that line, and mount the safety switch there, will it read correctly? AAAAND what pressure should I get?
Thanks all!
at the shrader valve.
Tap at the Schrader? Or should I mount the safety switch there? Sorry, I'm just trying to figure this out, as I'm ordering from Jeg's, and want to see what fittings I still need.
Originally posted by Matty K:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by Matty K:
While this thread is still jumping... is there a generally recommended place to tap for fuel? Also, I already have an aftermarket fuel pressure sender hooked up for my Autometer gauge; if I install a tee at the end of that line, and mount the safety switch there, will it read correctly? AAAAND what pressure should I get?
Thanks all!
at the shrader valve.
Tap at the Schrader? Or should I mount the safety switch there? Sorry, I'm just trying to figure this out, as I'm ordering from Jeg's, and want to see what fittings I still need.
The only place available to tap is at the schrader valve. I think the T would work, works for everything else.
Ok, cool. Is there a popular method for doing this? This is the image I found of the Schrader:
So I should just fit a tee into that line, right? Anyone know what size that tube is?
Again, thanks all.... I'm just piecing together what I'm missing.
Originally posted by Matty K:
Ok, cool. Is there a popular method for doing this? This is the image I found of the Schrader:
So I should just fit a tee into that line, right? Anyone know what size that tube is?
Again, thanks all.... I'm just piecing together what I'm missing.
Sort of.
Just unscreww the whole schraeder valve from the line with a 10mm socket I think, then you have a threaded hole. It is some sort of common thread because I took the schraeder valve to the hardware store and found an A/N fitting with the correct threads. Very similar to what the turbo guys use to tap the heads for the turbo oil feed. Anyway Buy one of those brass fittings from ACE Hardware and then buy a braided steel line to remote it out from under the manifold. THen you can get another fitting and a brass T to hook it up to the safety switch and the fuel solenoid inlet.
Ooooooooh, I see. I was thinking that the hose on there is in the engine, but it's not, is it? That's someone testing the Schrader, which is just a release valve, right? If that's the case, everything you said makes perfect sense to me.
Also, what pressure should the safety switch be? They make them in (I think) 7, 10, 15 and 30, or something along those lines.
Thanks Warmonger.
I don't know but I'm thinking 15psi is fine. High enough to still be provide fuel through the fuel jet when it starts to cut off but low enough that a pressure fluctuation won't shut it off. Hell, I've never seen the fuel pressure drop below 30 even under load but with a stock pump AND nitrous on the rail it may have a fluctuation.
I ran the 7psi safety switch but that was only because that was what was available at the time.
Whats the best type of Fuel pressure cutoff switch? I know summit sells an adjustable NX one
Here Would that be a good choice and then just follow the instructions from above (tap into Schraeder valve etc.)
Also, in my Zex kit i got a fuel line tap that looks like this:
Would that be better than running off the Schraeder valve?
Edelbrock ones are MUCH cheaper. My plan is to put a fitting where the Schrader is, run a short braided line to a tee, where the cut-off is mounted, then run a long braided line from the other side of the tee to the solenoid... for what it's worth. I ordered a bunch of parts from ye' olde Bill Jenkins and had him send me a Schrader so I could get a correct thread size, and do one big order of the fittings I'm missing from Jeg's. Well worth the extra $4 I spent on it to take out all guesswork; though he did say it's a "standard" Schrader size, so you may only need to take a trip to the hardware store. Either way, I'll post up my final setup with what I find about thread sizes and all.
after reading some more it seems my kit didnt come with the Schraeder valve fitting that the kit is supposed to come with. I guess ill just order that from the Zex store unless they can be found at any hardware store (home hardware or Canadian tire?)
Originally posted by Tourige:
Whats the best type of Fuel pressure cutoff switch? I know summit sells an adjustable NX one Here Would that be a good choice and then just follow the instructions from above (tap into Schraeder valve etc.)
Also, in my Zex kit i got a fuel line tap that looks like this:
Would that be better than running off the Schraeder valve?
Don't use that crap.
You can use a piece of braided steel line with the A/N type fittings. You can get all your braided steel line from any hot rod shop, probably JCwhitney, definitely earls, anyplace you'd buy that type of line. search the web after you find your fitting at the hardware store.
Yes, he's right.
But you just want the tap size of the shcraeder valve.
Don't quote me but it is an NPT thread. It could be 1/4" NPT or a metric equivalent.
Cmon, after you bleed the fuel pressure it takes like two minutes to unthread it, you don't even have to pull the intake as youcan see it. With a long extension (1/4" drive) and a deep socket you can have it off quick. Then just take it to ACE Hardware and you'll have the fitting. You are looking for an A/N fitting, sort of a conical shaped head.
This is EXACTLY the same fitting used to fit into the turbo bearing section for the oil feed when you use braided steel line.
I've got an earls fitting downstairs right now but I'm too lazy to go and get it, snap a picture, etc. Maybe someone will link to a picture but I'm sure if he wants nitrous bad enough he'll do the little bit of legwork that is left.
Originally posted by warmonger:
Yes, he's right.
But you just want the tap size of the shcraeder valve.
Don't quote me but it is an NPT thread. It could be 1/4" NPT or a metric equivalent.
Cmon, after you bleed the fuel pressure it takes like two minutes to unthread it, you don't even have to pull the intake as youcan see it. With a long extension (1/4" drive) and a deep socket you can have it off quick. Then just take it to ACE Hardware and you'll have the fitting. You are looking for an A/N fitting, sort of a conical shaped head.
This is EXACTLY the same fitting used to fit into the turbo bearing section for the oil feed when you use braided steel line.
I've got an earls fitting downstairs right now but I'm too lazy to go and get it, snap a picture, etc. Maybe someone will link to a picture but I'm sure if he wants nitrous bad enough he'll do the little bit of legwork that is left.
yea ill rip it off today and go for a look around to see whats up. Ill just take the line that came with the kit.
are you looking for somewhere to pull fuel from? its right at the test port for the fuel system, on the fuel rail. they make a fitting for it. you have to pull out the valve obviously.... fuel pressure is easy to bleed off. take off the cap and push the valve while holding a rag over it. bada bing bada boom. just make sure your lines dont rub on the water pump pulley
Originally posted by TRicker:
are you looking for somewhere to pull fuel from? its right at the test port for the fuel system, on the fuel rail. they make a fitting for it. you have to pull out the valve obviously.... fuel pressure is easy to bleed off. take off the cap and push the valve while holding a rag over it. bada bing bada boom. just make sure your lines dont rub on the water pump pulley
just looking for a fitting to tap into the Schraeder is all.
Originally posted by TRicker:
are you looking for somewhere to pull fuel from? its right at the test port for the fuel system, on the fuel rail. they make a fitting for it.
Does anyone know where I can get that fitting? I sized the Schraeder as a Metric fine thread (M8 - 1.0 or something), so I'll need to switch that to a AN fitting for the fuel line.
Originally posted by Matty K:
Originally posted by TRicker:
are you looking for somewhere to pull fuel from? its right at the test port for the fuel system, on the fuel rail. they make a fitting for it.
Does anyone know where I can get that fitting? I sized the Schraeder as a Metric fine thread (M8 - 1.0 or something), so I'll need to switch that to a AN fitting for the fuel line.
+1 i need one toooooo
Same as I said before, the hardware store has the metric thread to A/N fitting.
If you haven't removed your schraeder valve and gone down to the local ACE Hardware or similar store by now to match up the fitting end then you are hard-headed!
Or scared. lol
All it will cost you is $1.50 max for the part.
I went to TWO hardware stores, thank you very much!
Like I said, it's a metric thread... unfortunately, the two hardware stores nearby didn't have AN fittings... one barely had anything, lol, and the other was Home Depot... they suck for specialty fittings. I'm going to look up Ace and a few others around me.... But metric to AN is a common fitting?
It was easy to find at ACE in Arizona anyway.
i have like 10 of them at my house, if you reeeally want it i will put it in an envelope and send it to you rofl
I wouldn't worry about it... I just need to find a better hardware store. Like I said, l�© Despot is not much good for "specialty" anything.
Originally posted by TRicker:
i have like 10 of them at my house, if you reeeally want it i will put it in an envelope and send it to you rofl
ill take one.
check ur PM's
leme take a pic of it to make sure its the one you want.
Originally posted by TRicker:
leme take a pic of it to make sure its the one you want.
as long as it works with the Schraeder and a -4 AN tube it will work.