Umm, long tube upper intake manifolds that are not designed for wet applications are the death of MANY wet nitrous kit users. If you want to understand how to use a type of nitrous kit, understand its function and how it will interact with the motor you will be using it on. First, YOU WILL wind up having a lean condition due to puddling with the 2.5l engine REGUARDLESS of when you spray the WET kit. You probably won't notice it until it is too late and you melt somthing important. A few things contribute to this - velocity and restriction. The UIM on the 2.5 has ALOT of LONG tubes with CRAZY bends in it. These bends allow the air to slow down long enough for the fuel to start to seperate from the mixture. The upper manifold isn't designed to keep the fuel rolling along with the rest of the mixture. For this reason, they make a DRY nitrous kit. This type of kit raises fuel pressure to make the fuel injectors spray more fuel every time they open.
By spraying fuel at this point, you eliminate the worry of fuel puddling in the UIM, running lean due to spraying fuel/nitrous before the UIM and contribute to a more exacting fuel distribution. The nitrous on a dry kit gets sprayed before the throttle body and is carried harmlessly with the rest of the air entering the motor. For the 2.5 and 2.0 the only safe option with nitrous is a dry kit. If you want to keep living on the edge, Keep spraying your 2.5l with a wet kit.
If you want to try to be smart about it, check your plugs RIGHT AFTER you spray. Run the nitrous and as soon as your done with your run - PULL OVER (At the turn at the end of the drag strip) and pull them, ALL OF THEM and look to see how your car is running on the spray. Quick little bursts might not hurt anything by themselves, but they could add up over time. I have a few boxes of melted parts I could share with you if you want to know how much time and money I have put into researching nitrous use on the 2.0l and 2.5l.