Did you remove your hood or build the special tool to hold it open?
Did you drain the brake fluid reservoir?
If so, I assume not the master cylinder.
Did you drain the power steering fluid reservoir?
If so, how did you suction it out, or drain it?
Did you leave the radiator in on cotter pins?
What did you leave out or add to the FORD CD manual?
Originally posted by HoosierContour:
Did you remove your hood or build the special tool to hold it open?
Did you drain the brake fluid reservoir?
If so, I assume not the master cylinder.
Did you drain the power steering fluid reservoir?
If so, how did you suction it out, or drain it?
Did you leave the radiator in on cotter pins?
What did you leave out or add to the FORD CD manual?
1. Left the hood on and opened it fully without the prop rod. Then braced it with a piece of aluminum rod just in case the wind picked up. Gives tons of room and it will hold itself open.
2. No. No need to pull the master cylinder, just be carefull to turn the transaxe assembly as you are hoisting it out. I did it myself without any help if that tells you how easy it is.
3. No. I popped it out of its brackets and unhooked the lines from the pump. Then I tucked it up onto the hood cowling to keep it out of the way. Lost fluid but no biggie.
4. I pulled the cooling fans and radiator. Give a lot more room to work on things and you won't ram the engine into it when lifting it out.
5. The ac compressor unbolts easily when the radiator is out. I left the ac lines all hooked up and supported the condenser with some wire since it is supported by little brackets on the radiator. Once the radiator is out, the compressor can sit nicely on the front frame crossmember. This is nice so you don't vent your ac system.
The only other issues were the shift cable clips. They do pop off with a good pry-bar, carefull not to break them as they are plastic. Don't pop loose the adjusters or you'll have to readjust them.
6. Pull the hole strut assembly since it is very easy to pull it down once you pop the tie-rod, lower ball joint, and strut tower nut. Pop the half-shafts loose at the trans on the left side and the axle extension on the right. Remove the strut and half-shafts as an assembly to save assembly/dissassembly time AND having to buy new axle nuts as well as possible screwed up axle threads. Pulling them out of the hubs can cause premature bearing wear too.
Don't bother to pull the alternator or exhaust manifolds since the engine is compact and will lift out very easily. You should pull the y-pipe though.
Oh yea, pull the front bumber cover off so it doesn' get damaged and provides a lot more access room.
There: I gave all the good shortcut and $$$ saver tips I can about pulling the motor/trans assembly. It only took me about 4 hours from the time I started tear-down to when I was ready to hook up the hoist.
Happy tear-down!
warmonger
A few more questions.
1. What size bolts are used to mount the block to the engine stand? 10mm x 1.5?
2. Since I have a 98 Non-SVT, what is the best option? I was thinking because of the non-svt parts, the entire longblock from a 2001+ sans the oil pan, pickup tube and front timing cover.
3. How important/what mileage of a 3L would I consider not using new rings, bearings, and seals? I was hoping not to tear down the engine.
4. How much of the crankshaft bushing will have to be trimmed off? Are we talking 1mm, 1cm, 1in, 2in? 3/8"? Cut the bushing off flat at the crank with a hacksaw?
5. Link to a list of all the TTY bolts?
6. What modification is needed on the secondary linkage if I choose to use the 3L heads?
7. Which year of 3L had valve reliefs in the pistons? 2001+?
8. What fabrication is needed with a complete 3L long block? IE EGR,IAC, fuel rail,vacuum lines etc.
Thanks.
about a month ago I posted the size of the bolts to the engine stand. I know its in here somewhere. IIRC its 10 x 1.25.....
Originally posted by HoosierContour:
A few more questions.
1. What size bolts are used to mount the block to the engine stand? 10mm x 1.5?
2. Since I have a 98 Non-SVT, what is the best option? I was thinking because of the non-svt parts, the entire longblock from a 2001+ sans the oil pan, pickup tube and front timing cover.
3. How important/what mileage of a 3L would I consider not using new rings, bearings, and seals? I was hoping not to tear down the engine.
4. How much of the crankshaft bushing will have to be trimmed off? Are we talking 1mm, 1cm, 1in, 2in? 3/8"? Cut the bushing off flat at the crank with a hacksaw?
5. Link to a list of all the TTY bolts?
6. What modification is needed on the secondary linkage if I choose to use the 3L heads?
7. Which year of 3L had valve reliefs in the pistons? 2001+?
8. What fabrication is needed with a complete 3L long block? IE EGR,IAC, fuel rail,vacuum lines etc.
Thanks.
The bushing needs to have about 1.5-2 cm cut from it. Easy enough to check since you can keep on testing the flywheel until it fits. I just used a die-grinder cut-off wheel and cut it flush.
I think I'd get a new shortblock, or a low-mileage engine from a salvage yard. Personally the engine is the best way to go because you can get all kind of goodies and spare parts from it. Coil packs, DPFE sensor, vacuum switches, 24# injectors, plus all the 3L intake components that you can use to experiment with.
The rest of your questions were handled in other posts here, some within the last couple of weeks so you should be able to find them in a search.
Have fun, hope the tips help.
warmonger
I'm about to pull an engine also. Don't I need some Tool to remove the fuel Lines? I remember somebody talking about that
Yes you will need a special tool that cost about 5-10 dollars at autozone. Looks like a plastic washer type deal or you can get the metal sicssor type. I like the plastic ones because there much easier to use.
Warmonger, what did you use to pull the half shaft out of the trans? Last time I replaced my trans it was a biatch to get out and also to you reuse your clips on the ends of the half shafts? One more thing on the shifter cables I popped the retainer out and they came right off. Or I think they might be vice versa were they are locked when there popped out and unlocked when pushed out.I will haaave to look again. I think I might drop my trans again because of a to agressive clutch. Might have to replace it with one of those new specs.
Dustyn, want to help me swap an engine out for me?
I pickup the 95 SE this Sunday down in Stugis, KY.
Originally posted by HoosierContour:
Did you remove your hood or build the special tool to hold it open?
I used a bungie cord to the sunroof - not too tight, but the hood wasn't going anywhere and there were no obstructions over the engine.
Mike I might be able to help one day next weekend. I will get back with you. I am trying to get mine back into shape. Hey you want to buy a heavy duty clutch cheap? I mean cheap!
Originally posted by kool aid:
I'm about to pull an engine also. Don't I need some Tool to remove the fuel Lines? I remember somebody talking about that
yeah autozone has it for like 5 bucks. It s a little chrome X shaped thing that compresses the spring inside there.
you don't technically need the fuel disconnect tool... i went to autozone to buy one and they didn't have any left in stock... there are 2 7mm (or 8mm) bolts that hold the fuel pressure sensor together on the fuel rail... disconnect the bolts, some fuel will spill which you should catch with a rag... and you are good to go... just remember no smoking while doing this... oh and don't lose the little rubber o-ring either
I agree with Puck.
On my returnless engine you could just remove those 2 bolts and you are done. (IIRC they were 7mm)
WWWWWWWHHHHHHHHAAATTTTTT? DemonSVT skimping out on buying new tools?!?!?!?!?!
Tell me it's not true!
I've got the whole set of the nice plastic ones that fit the fuel lines and AC lines for Ford, some GM, and some Chrysler. Whole set ran me $28 and take seconds to disconnect/reconnect.
I bought one of the tools and it was the wrong size. I dunno if the svt has bigger fuel lines or what, but both the gm and ford sides of the tool were too small. I just cut a 1" long piece of 1/2" diameter copper pipe off and split it down the middle. Insert a piece on each side of the collar and it pulls right out. Fab -u-lous!
Originally posted by bnoon:
I've got the whole set of the nice plastic ones that fit the fuel lines and AC lines for Ford, some GM, and some Chrysler. Whole set ran me $28 and take seconds to disconnect/reconnect.
Were did you get it from?I would like a nice set also.
Originally posted by bnoon:
WWWWWWWHHHHHHHHAAATTTTTT? DemonSVT skimping out on buying new tools?!?!?!?!?! Tell me it's not true!
Actually I have the $10 set of plastic disconnect tools. 2 bolts were much quicker.
See sometimes smarter beats the fancy smancy tools. 
(those are cool too! )
...and no I never did get the air nailer. I just used coated & colored deck screws. Worked out great! 
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by bnoon:
WWWWWWWHHHHHHHHAAATTTTTT? DemonSVT skimping out on buying new tools?!?!?!?!?! Tell me it's not true!
Actually I have the $10 set of plastic disconnect tools. 2 bolts were much quicker.
See sometimes smarter beats the fancy smancy tools. (those are cool too! )
...and no I never did get the air nailer. I just used coated & colored deck screws. Worked out great!
You must have some faulty plastic disconnect tools then. I've got Kinger's fuel line disconnect on video. I'll download it to my site again since it's such a small file. Two bolts using a high speed air ratchet would get whooped... Even when doing the return style cars.
Originally posted by kool aid:
Originally posted by bnoon:
I've got the whole set of the nice plastic ones that fit the fuel lines and AC lines for Ford, some GM, and some Chrysler. Whole set ran me $28 and take seconds to disconnect/reconnect.
Were did you get it from?I would like a nice set also.
I got my set from O'Reily's Auto Parts locally. 4 pieces in one box, 2 in another. They're a split, spring loaded plastic circle that slips over the fuel line connector. Takes only seconds per connection.
Warmonger. I have a question man, do all 3L duratecs have electric water pumps?? I want to do a srtaight swap with mine. Why do you have to use the 2.5 timing cover?? Do I have to use the 2.5 heads?? It's a non-SVT.I know I have to change the oil pan and the pick up tube?? How long did it take you to install the motor??
Originally posted by fordcontoursport:
Warmonger. I have a question man, do all 3L duratecs have electric water pumps?? I want to do a srtaight swap with mine. Why do you have to use the 2.5 timing cover?? Do I have to use the 2.5 heads?? It's a non-SVT.I know I have to change the oil pan and the pick up tube?? How long did it take you to install the motor??
Man, are you ever confused!
1. Electric water pumps are after market only. Ford OEM water pumps are similar on the 2001+ 3L, but then the oval head ports require the 3L intakes to be used, or adapter plates to be made for the 2.5 intakes to fit, of which both options take some fabrication. Using a 2000 or older 3L requires the electric pump if you're keeping the 3L heads because the water pump is in a different place on those years. If you use the 2.5 heads, you can use the factory 2.5L water pump.
2. Timing cover from the Taurus won't fit. The 2.5 one is needed to keep all of your factory accessories, like power steering pump, alternator, air conditioning...
3. No, you do not have to use the 2.5L heads. As described above, as well as in tons of threads found using the search feature, you will find that you have many options to decide on that will dictate which heads you use or which modifications you need to run which style of heads.
Originally posted by bnoon:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by bnoon:
WWWWWWWHHHHHHHHAAATTTTTT? DemonSVT skimping out on buying new tools?!?!?!?!?! Tell me it's not true!
Actually I have the $10 set of plastic disconnect tools. 2 bolts were much quicker.
See sometimes smarter beats the fancy smancy tools. (those are cool too! )
...and no I never did get the air nailer. I just used coated & colored deck screws. Worked out great!
You must have some faulty plastic disconnect tools then. I've got Kinger's fuel line disconnect on video. I'll download it to my site again since it's such a small file. Two bolts using a high speed air ratchet would get whooped... Even when doing the return style cars.
But if you have the ratchet set sitting on the cowl with tools right there, and the quick disconnect is somewhere in your toolbox, by the time you "find" the quick disconnect tool I'll have the line disconneted
yeah now i'm just poking fun.... but i do agree, the quick disconnect is the way to go, however it's not the ONLY way to go....
Is the timing cover easy to remove when the engine is out?? Is it too big or something?? I don't want to swap heads so that's why I asked you about the waterpump. I'll probably use the 2001 3L block. What is the purpose of the electric waterpump?? My mom has a 2000 taurus with the 3L duratec and the waterpump is in the same place as the 2.5L. It's run off the camshaft. I didn't see any wires hooked up to it as far as I know. The upper intake manifolds seem to be tall, will I still be able to close my hood?? Do I have to do some fabricating on the heads?? I really don't want to swap any major parts so that's why I asked.
It's much faster to disconnect those two couplings than unbolting two bolts. I disconnected the fuel line, A/C lines in no time. And the A/C lines were very rusty!
Originally posted by fordcontoursport:
Is the timing cover easy to remove when the engine is out?? Is it too big or something?? I don't want to swap heads so that's why I asked you about the waterpump. I'll probably use the 2001 3L block. What is the purpose of the electric waterpump?? My mom has a 2000 taurus with the 3L duratec and the waterpump is in the same place as the 2.5L. It's run off the camshaft. I didn't see any wires hooked up to it as far as I know. The upper intake manifolds seem to be tall, will I still be able to close my hood?? Do I have to do some fabricating on the heads?? I really don't want to swap any major parts so that's why I asked.
That must be a very late 2000 Taurus to have the newer water pump location. All 2000's I've seen have the 'other' water pump location, which isn't off of the cam. It's off of the front timing cover area of the engine.
The timing cover is fairly easy to swap out after removing the pan and all accessories.
If you use the 2000+ blocks, they have oval port cylinder heads. You can't use the 2.5 intakes without major head port modifications and a custom adapter to mate the twin circle ports of the 2.5 intakes. Not fun. The easiest swap is the hybrid, using any 98+ block and 2.5 heads.
The after market Davies Craig electric water pump (available at BAT or through Terry Haines) comes into play for those wanting to run a '98-'00 3L block with 3L heads that have the wrong factory water pump location for the CDW-27 application. Place the electric water pump near where the factory 2.5 water pump is located. Some water line fabrication is also required.
Yeah, so I can't use the 3L heads?? I don't want to swap heads. I'm not trying to use the 2.5 intakes. I'm trying to do a straight swap . I know I have to swap those other parts that you told me about. So I have to find a 3L block that has the camshaft driven pump right?? She also has the coil on the plug ignition system so what can I do about that??
Yes, you can use the 3L heads. You just have a lot of options to consider.
You won't use the coil on plug, you'll use the factory Contour ignition system and engine harness.
You may also need some fuel rail or line modifications because the Taurus feeds from the opposite side of the engine on the Taurus. Talk to Puck Puck since he has made it work in his Cougar.
You need to modify the IAC, EGR and Fuel Rail.
The Fuel rail is 70% 3L fuel rail, 20% 3/8" flexible fuel injection hose, and 10% 2.5L fuel rail (going from end of rail to fuel pressure sensor)
The EGR is 30% 2.5L EGR Tube (cut just after DPFE sensor ports), 30% 5/8" heater hose, and 40% 3L EGR Tube (going from exhaust manifold to intake manifold)
The IAC is a mod of it's own. Think home based copper pipe, and use the 2.5L IAC motor, just press the pipes into the motor holes and start going from there, find a port before and another after the TB and use them.
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by bnoon:
WWWWWWWHHHHHHHHAAATTTTTT? DemonSVT skimping out on buying new tools?!?!?!?!?! Tell me it's not true!
Actually I have the $10 set of plastic disconnect tools. 2 bolts were much quicker.
See sometimes smarter beats the fancy smancy tools. (those are cool too! )
...and no I never did get the air nailer. I just used coated & colored deck screws. Worked out great!
Here's a 24 second video showing fuel line disconnection the proper way. Fuel line removal Mpeg Yeah, yeah, I know, my video editing skills are lacking... 
Originally posted by bnoon:
Here's a 24 second video showing fuel line disconnection the proper way. Fuel line removal Mpeg Yeah, yeah, I know, my video editing skills are lacking...
Wow! That's friggin' great!!
Oh that's a instant classic!
Wow, a little disturbed makes me want to run right out and bust open my fuel lines right now!
Pretty good though.
Why don't you do that with the key parts of the 3L hybrid swap?
Hell, we could all take video of doing something, send it to you and compile a huge tape.
warmonger
That was actually in the plans at one time. I was going to make an official BNMotorsports 3L prep video, but was always to short on time to slow down enough to film stuff. Now that I have a good burner and Awsome video skilzzz
I may just do it. Anyone up for more of the
"Rick and Brad Garage Show"?
hell yeah I would definitely interested in seeing that! I don't know if I will be doing a 3L swap anytime, however it would be still quite useful and interesting.
If we were to do it, we'd cover the basics too, like injector swap, intake manifold pulls and installation, pre-cat gutting 101, TB optimizing... pretty much the staples of the do-it-yourselfer, just with more experienced insight from those who have already done it several times over. I could separate it into sub directories for experience level or something too...
I would pay the $31 shipped like the SpringZing02 DVD.
Consider the following how-tos:
3.0L block prep
UIM and LIM removal and cleaning
DMD installation
Water pump installation
Alternation installation
Aussie Bar installation
Short shifter installation
TB optimization
Pre-cat gutting
Spring and Shocks installation
How to roll a contour
Apexi, emanage or my favorite, SHM Mafterburner install
Fog light modification
TH fix
etc.
Originally posted by bnoon:
If we were to do it, we'd cover the basics too, like injector swap, intake manifold pulls and installation, pre-cat gutting 101, TB optimizing... pretty much the staples of the do-it-yourselfer, just with more experienced insight from those who have already done it several times over. I could separate it into sub directories for experience level or something too...
Damn! I just put in the 36# injectors and new NGK TR6's yesterday. I could've taped it. I'm so practiced that it takes about 30 minutes from start to finish for me to change out my fuel injectors, no sh|t!
Add about 15 minutes to gap and change the plugs.
I'll tell you what I would like...a video showing the MTX-75 disassembly and install of a quaife. That would be great!
Someone buy me a transmission and I'll videotape myself putting a quaife in it! Then I'll send them a copy of the video.
warmonger
Originally posted by warmonger:
Damn! I just put in the 36# injectors and new NGK TR6's yesterday. I could've taped it. I'm so practiced that it takes about 30 minutes from start to finish for me to change out my fuel injectors, no sh|t!
Add about 15 minutes to gap and change the plugs.
I'll tell you what I would like...a video showing the MTX-75 disassembly and install of a quaife. That would be great!
Someone buy me a transmission and I'll videotape myself putting a quaife in it! Then I'll send them a copy of the video.
warmonger
Yeah, I've had my UIM off so many times I had to replace the bolts and chase the threads on the LIM because they were wearing out. Now if I showed you guys a video of it, it would look to different because of the 3L UIM on there.
The trans issue... well, it's a bit advanced for the average DIY'er, even with a video.
Originally posted by bnoon:
Yeah, I've had my UIM off so many times I had to replace the bolts and chase the threads on the LIM because they were wearing out. Now if I showed you guys a video of it, it would look to different because of the 3L UIM on there.
The trans issue... well, it's a bit advanced for the average DIY'er, even with a video.
Yeah, but I've never considered myself average, and I want the video!
I will probably just get a trans when I get back from...wherever I am going. It'll be cheaper then anyway. Then I'll build it myself, I guess.
Have you installed a quaife Brad?
warmonger
Never touched a MTX75 trans other than to separate it from the engine or put it back on. Well... other than a slave cylinder, but that's not really trans work.
I don't know if it's any different than any rear end as far as setting pinion/gear lash and side load, but the principals I'm sure are the same.
Did your unit get activated Tom???
Originally posted by bnoon:
Never touched a MTX75 trans other than to separate it from the engine or put it back on. Well... other than a slave cylinder, but that's not really trans work.
I don't know if it's any different than any rear end as far as setting pinion/gear lash and side load, but the principals I'm sure are the same.
Did your unit get activated Tom???
Since its on the news, there is no OPSEC violation in telling you that yes, 1st Cav Div in Ft. Hood has received deployment orders. That is why I am trying to get as much done as I can beforehand and why I will probably wait to fabricate the intercooler until I get back...that is if KEYSER EVER GETS BACK TO ME!
If I shout he will call.
warmonger
Originally posted by warmonger:
Since its on the news, there is no OPSEC violation in telling you that yes, 1st Cav Div in Ft. Hood has received deployment orders.
Give them hell!
Originally posted by warmonger:
I'll tell you what I would like...a video showing the MTX-75 disassembly and install of a quaife. That would be great!
Someone buy me a transmission and I'll videotape myself putting a quaife in it! Then I'll send them a copy of the video.
warmonger
Sure Warmonger, now you say that now....after I just ripped mine apart. I do have some digital still pics, but no video. But while we're on the subject, is there a trick to getting the damn reverse idler gear back in? I ended up breaking the bearing cage on the rear of the secondary shaft and had to order a new one. Then getting the shift fork guide rods to line up in BOTH case halves? I'm getting ready to finish it up tomorrow and hints would REALLY REALLY help!
Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by bnoon:
Never touched a MTX75 trans other than to separate it from the engine or put it back on. Well... other than a slave cylinder, but that's not really trans work.
I don't know if it's any different than any rear end as far as setting pinion/gear lash and side load, but the principals I'm sure are the same.
Did your unit get activated Tom???
Since its on the news, there is no OPSEC violation in telling you that yes, 1st Cav Div in Ft. Hood has received deployment orders. That is why I am trying to get as much done as I can beforehand and why I will probably wait to fabricate the intercooler until I get back...that is if KEYSER EVER GETS BACK TO ME!
If I shout he will call.
warmonger
Yeah, there's been lots of local news coverage of our local troops being activated. Since I'm a civilian worker at a state run facility in the basement of a NG Armory, I get to see the tear jerking family moments as the families drop off their loved ones in the parking lot nearly every day. I've never had anything add so much emotional stress in my life as what I've been seeing over the past couple of weeks. I hope it's quicker and more successfull than the last time we went up against that pee-on wanna-be dictator.
As Po-Jay said, GIVE THEM HELL!