Crank Pully - Off - CEG Archives

What is the best way to get this pully off?

There is a hex head on the end of the shaft and one right outside of the rusty balancer. It wants to strip instead of turning and my impact is not strong enough to get the outside one.

Any help would be great - I did search of crank pully and other related stuff.

I believe that it is a reverse thread. Righty-loosey, Lefty-tighty.

You can take a sawzall to the shaft so that you can remove the pulley and put a socket on the end of the nub.

yep...reverse thread.

Thank you for the advise. Sounds like a good idea to cut the shaft.

I thought about trying reverse, but didn't

I've had good luck just using an impact on the outermost hex portion of the pully assembly and if needed adding a little heat to loosen the loctite holding it to the crank pulley. This eliminates having to sawzall through that center shaft.

Rick

Don't be afraid to cut it though, its not like you need the pully. Pray you don't have to do what I did...I had to cut the pully down to the hex and still couldn't get it to budge...and that was using a 3 ft bar on top of a breaker bar. I wound up using a cut-off tool and cutting the bolt into 6 pieces (pie or pizza style) and that loosened the bolt enough to get it out.

Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Don't be afraid to cut it though, its not like you need the pully. Pray you don't have to do what I did...I had to cut the pully down to the hex and still couldn't get it to budge...and that was using a 3 ft bar on top of a breaker bar. I wound up using a cut-off tool and cutting the bolt into 6 pieces (pie or pizza style) and that loosened the bolt enough to get it out.

Same here. It sucked mucho.

Originally posted by muntus:

Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Don't be afraid to cut it though, its not like you need the pully. Pray you don't have to do what I did...I had to cut the pully down to the hex and still couldn't get it to budge...and that was using a 3 ft bar on top of a breaker bar. I wound up using a cut-off tool and cutting the bolt into 6 pieces (pie or pizza style) and that loosened the bolt enough to get it out.

Same here. It sucked mucho.

I got away with a 3ft bar on top of the breaker bar. Hmm looks like my muscles won

my impact gun took it off in about 2 seconds on the last 3L i tore down

Originally posted by bradSVT:

Originally posted by muntus:

Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Don't be afraid to cut it though, its not like you need the pully. Pray you don't have to do what I did...I had to cut the pully down to the hex and still couldn't get it to budge...and that was using a 3 ft bar on top of a breaker bar. I wound up using a cut-off tool and cutting the bolt into 6 pieces (pie or pizza style) and that loosened the bolt enough to get it out.

Same here. It sucked mucho.

I got away with a 3ft bar on top of the breaker bar. Hmm looks like my muscles won

What are you trying to say? hehe. Anyways, I tried, my cousin tried (about 260) and my friend [censored] aka big ryan aka ryan tried and hes a good 380. And it wouldn't budge. So, the cut off tool became my new friend....

I weigh 300lb and bench 340lb and the thing wouldn't move. I guess my muscles aren't as strong as Big Brad's.

A breaker bar is your worst enemy on that particular piece. You're fighting against lock-tight and also attempting to not rotate the engine backwards while you loosen the bolt. An impact wrench or impact driver if you don't have air tools, is the only realy way to go. The popping action of those tools is what breaks the loctite barrier easily. Brute force will eventually prevail, but you're risking yourself (I had a chater bar pop loose and ding me in the forehead leaving me to see stars) and your bearing surfaces by possibly rotating it backwards.

Rick

Tried that also...impact pushing 120 ft/pds...held it on there for minutes...then let the air reload, tried again. Even tried spurting it to get it to work...nothing. I'd suggest to anyone to cut the pully off, try an impact, then try a breakerbar w/ pipe, and lastly cut the damn thing off.

Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Tried that also...impact pushing 120 ft/pds...held it on there for minutes...

A 120lb/ft impact gun sounds quite weak. My 1/2" I/R is 475. (well originally anyway

) Even my butterfly is 150.

The simplest way is to cut off the pulley at the hex. Then impact it off. Even a sharp blow (dead blow or 4x4 of wood) with a 1/2" breaker bar will pop it with the pulley cut off. (old news

)

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Tried that also...impact pushing 120 ft/pds...held it on there for minutes...

A 120lb/ft impact gun sounds quite weak. My 1/2" I/R is 475. (well originally anyway ) Even my butterfly is 150.

The simplest way is to cut off the pulley at the hex. Then impact it off. Even a sharp blow (dead blow or 4x4 of wood) with a 1/2" breaker bar will pop it with the pulley cut off. (old news )

OMG, HE LIVES!!!

475 ft-lbs, you didn't buy yours at Sears then did you? lol
Mine was 250 ft-lbs, a chicago pneumatic.

I did not have time to mess with it last night. I have an I/R it is supposed to be around 475 ft-lbs. I have time tonight so I will let you know how it comes off.

Apply some heat to it with a torch. As long as you're replacing the front timing seal anyways, it won't really hurt anything.

Rick

Originally posted by warmonger:
475 ft-lbs, you didn't buy yours at Sears then did you? lol
Mine was 250 ft-lbs, a chicago pneumatic.

It's an Ingersoll Rand that I've had for too many years to mention. (from back when I turned wrenches professionally) I've even rebuilt it once due to use.

I got it.

Well my impact is not strong enough.
I cut the end off right in front of the hex. Secured the flex plate on the other end. Then used a Flexbar with a 4 foot pipe extension. It popped right off.

Then I was irritated by a second bolt under that one. That one is right hand thread and much easier to remove.

Thanks for everyones help.

Paul