I realized why the tranny and engine is not stabbing. The 3 liter has a bushing that stick out of the crank now I am worried like crap that this peice will come out assembled.

What tool did ya'll use to remove the buching from the crank. I was think of maybe a seal puller or so or worse senario to cut the bit out with a vertical metal saw.

Help need some tips here

A hack saw will work if you don't have anything else. Just be sure to remove it as flush as possible. There are other ways but considering the state of your build this would likely be the easiest

Check out my recent post. I have a video of the die grinder on the bushing.

Die Grinder

Just scroll closer to the bottom of the post. Hope it helps!

judging by your post...you must not have been aware...it does not come out...you just need to cut it flush...

I used a hacksaw as well.

it does come off!! use a sliding hammer type dent puller. Weld on a nut to the end of the pilot, thread the dent puller onto the nut and yank it out.

The heat from welding the nut on the bushing has the potential to damage the rear seal. Cut two slits in the side of the pilot bushing and use a Bearing Separator with a puller and it'll come right out.

it does not get near hot enough to damage the rear seal. tack a couple spots and pull it. that easy

I used an angle grinder with a thin cut-off wheel. It took me about ten seconds to cut it off and sand it smooth.

Well Guys I found the easiest way too get it out. First if you have the same size solid rod as the pilot ID then take thick grease and pack it in the hole and when you hit the rod into the pilot bearing the grease with hyrdraulically press out the bearing if it not old and rusted or worn too.

But that method did not work since I could locate a spline or rod too fit the hole perfectly.

So I went get a 7/8 drill bit and drilled out the pilot bearing which drilled easily too. Then I purchased a 1 inch bolt and a 1 inch tap and tap the piolt bearing. Then I took a small quarter inch socket and put it in the hole first to allow the bolt to mate up early. I then threaded the 1 inch bolt into the new thread and then got my half inch impact wrench and pressed it out.

Took me 8 hours to loacte the idea around town and 30 minutes to remove once I got the right method.

Oh I also rented the pilot bearing puller from autozone.
Save your time the the pilot bearing is flush does not have enough space behind it to get the two fingers in behind the bushing.

I would have the darn thing running today but I spent all day on a darn bushing.

Oh the final cost to do this was 35 bucks for parts and 20 dollars in gas firguring it out.....lol.....

Well I have a dyno appointment schedule for friday wish me luck guys.

How did you NOT KNOW by this time about having to cut that piece of the metal bushing off? lol

Building a turbo but missed that piece of info that has been around since 2000 on this board. Heheheh.

Naaa, that crank is huge and unless you are welding for 10 minutes it'll sink away all the heat form a tack weld.

Besides, just cut it flush, thats what almost everyone does and its over in five minutes....like a quicky

Well I did it correctly by removing it completly but yes you are right after cursing for two hours or more trying to mate up the tranny I pulled the clutch and saw the difference between my old crank.

But rememeber I was the old school 2.5 liter with turbo so I hardly read the 3 liter section to catch that point. I just moving up to make sure I hold the my king of the hill still ......... ........
I have to improve my 13.2 to 12's for a little cushion ....

You live and learn the hard way and that I do.........

I just dont get why you didnt cut it flush... I mean, thats the simplest solution...

I was afraid of the spline of the tranny hitting the bushing.

It would be hard to measure the distance the spline would go into the crank so to place safe reduce weight just removed it to make it just like the it should be if it was standard but at the time I didn't know if anyone had problems with just cutting versus removing the peice which is replacable too.

Makes sense. I just cut mine today, flush with the crank, haven't lined up and bolted on the tranny yet, but since I haven't heard of anyone else having problems doing the same, I think I should be fine.

Originally posted by BurritaSVT:

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I have to improve my 13.2 to 12's for a little cushion ....

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lol...i'm already there...and at 110mph none the less. Hmmm...you have a dyno appointment Friday...i might have to go to the track next Saturday then with some weight reduction to see if i can't get this hog into the 12's. If i'm feelin' up to it i might even see if this poor lil motor can take a 150 shot...

Good luck at the dyno Friday! and hell...maybe we'll both wind up in the 12's