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Ok im bout to do a 3.0l swap out of a 01 escape. Ive been looking round in here and alot of people have posted alot of thin gs about the part numbers and what is needed. Will someone just pleaase go over this that has done the swap and add to this or just go over this and show me what exactly is needed bc the m ore i scrolled down i just kept findi;ng more part numbers and just got confused. So if someone would just tell me what i need on the list and add/subtract from it i would greatly appreciate it. THANKS! Also i have bout a complete engine of a 3.0l 01 escape already. I printed off this:

I have found all the Fel-Pro gasket I have used to be better quality then the OEM. I added in a few measurements; I have more.
I am very impressed with the Fel-pro parts. Also most of the gaskets are larger than OEM so they accomodate porting perfectly.

Sorry for the repeats as I just cut and paste.

Part Numbers

Fel-Pro Part# CS9038 2.5L Conversion Kit (includes oil pan gasket, oil seals etc)
Fel-Pro Part# HS9038PT 2.5L Head Gasket Set
Fel-Pro Part# 9038PT 2.5L Left Hand Head Gasket
Fel-Pro Part# 9039PT 2.5L Right Hand Head Gasket
Fel-Pro Part# 9540PT 3L Left Hand Head Gasket
Fel-Pro Part# 9541PT 3L Right Hand Head Gasket
Fel-Pro Part# ES72159 Head Bolt Set (2 req.)
Fel-Pro Part# MS92586 3L Plastic Oval Port Intake Manifold Set
Fel-Pro Part# MS95715 Exhaust Manifold Gasket (53mm x 32mm)
Fel-Pro Part# MS95726 2.5L Intake Manifold Gasket Set
Fel-Pro Part# SS72873-1 Valve Stem Seals (Viton)
Fel-Pro Part# VS50462 Valve Cover Set
Fel-Pro Part# TCS45966 Camshaft Rear Seal Gasket Set
Fel-Pro Part# TCS45967 Crankshaft Front Seal
Fel-Pro Part# OS30675R Oil Pan Set
Fel-Pro Part# 61006 SVT TB Gasket

2S7Z-6513-AA ST220 Valve Springs (measured 161-163 lb/in)
YF1Z-6513-FA Duratec Valve Springs (rated 153 lb/in per manual)
3F1Z-6564-AA New Roller Finger Followers
3M4Z-6675-BA Upgraded Oil Pan Set (2 drain back channels and better lower baffles ? comes with gasket and hardware)
4F1Z-6065-AA Head Bolts
F3LY-6214-A Connecting Rod Bolts
F5AZ-6700-A 3.0 Front Crankshaft Seal
F5AZ-6701-A 3.0 Rear Crankshaft Seal
F5DZ-9E936-AE SVT TB Gasket
F5RZ-2A411-A 2.5L UIM Plastic Retainer Grommet with Brass Insert Sleeve
F5RZ-2L181-AA 2.5L UIM Plastic Retainer Grommet
F5RZ-6020-A 2.5 Right Front Timing Cover Gasket
F5RZ-6020-B 2.5 Center Front Timing Cover Gasket
F5RZ-6020-C 2.5 Left Front Timing Cover Gasket
F5RZ-6584-B 2.5 Right Valve Cover Gasket
F5RZ-6584-C 2.5 Left Valve Cover Gasket
F5RZ-9439-B 2.5 Lower Intake Manifold Gasket
F5RZ-9H486-BA 2.5 Upper Intake Manifold Gasket
XF1Z-6051-BA 3.0 Right Head Gasket
XF1Z-6051-DA 3.0 Left Head Gasket
XW4Z-9448-AA Duratec Exhaust Manifold Gasket (50mm x 26mm)
YL8Z-6622-BA 01+ Upgraded Windage Tray (req 01+ main studs)
YL8Z-6687-AA 01+ Upgraded Oil Pickup (req 01+ main studs)

F5RZ-17285-AA MTX-75 Speedo Gear
F7RZ-4211-AC Differential Bearings (2 req)
XS8Z-7230-DD 1-2 Shifter Fork, Roller Bearings (02+)
YS2Z-7230-BA 5-R Shifter Fork, Revised (00)
YS4Z-7230-AD 3-4 Shifter Fork, Modified Oil Scraper (01+)
YS4Z-7K453-FA Shifter Retaining Clip
XS4Z-7201-CD Upgraded Shifter Tower (03+)

BCA part# 3909 Crankshaft Oil Seal
BCA part# 5277 Crankshaft Oil Seal (Teflon)
BCA part# 99363 Crankshaft Oil Seal (redi-sleeve)
BCA part# 88187 Harmonic Balancer Sleeve
BCA part# 482041N Oil Seal, Front Timing Cover
BCA part# 99187 Oil Seal, Front Timing Cover (redi-sleeve)

Spectra Premium# 1719 SVT Radiator

Clevite 77# CB-1772P - Standard, -.25MM, -.50MM, and -.75MM - Rod Bearings
Clevite 77# MS-2207 - Main Bearings

Federal Mogul# 7262MA - Main Bearings
Federal Mogul# 6-4395A ? Rod Bearings

Stant Part# 13396 ? 160 Degree T-Stat

Bosch# 13246 - L1H1 Wideband O2 Sensor

K&N Filters
Tapered Conical - DB x DT x L
RF-1045 (5.5 x 4 x 8) = 720cfm
RC-4630 (5.5 x 4.5 x 6.5) = 615cfm
RE-0950 (6 x 4.625 x 6) = 605cfm
RE-0920 (6 x 4.625 x 9) = 900cfm
RU-3530 (5.375 x 4.375 x 7) = 645cfm (3.75" flange)
Straight Conical - D x L
RU-1785 (5 x 8.5) = 800cfm

Rotunda Tool Set - Essential
T94P-6136-AH Connecting Rod Guides
T94P-6256-AH Camshaft Seal Protector
T94P-6256-BH Camshaft Seal Replacer
T94P-6256-DH Camshaft Damper Replacer
T94P-6312-AH Water Pump Pulley Remover/Replacer
T94P-6312-BH Water Inlet Tube Replacer
T94P-6510-BH Valve Guide Replacer Adapter
T94P-6510-CH Valve Stem Seal Replacer
T94P-6256-CH Camshaft Alignment Triming Tool
T94P-6510-AH Valve Stem Seal Remover
T94P-6510-DH Valve Guide Replacer Adapter
T94P-6565-AH Valve Spring Compressor Adapter
T94P-4451-AH Measuring Fixture
T94P-4451-BH Differential Shim Selection Tool Adapter
T94P-7025-BH Multi-Bearing Cup Replacer
T94P-7025-CH Differential Drive Shaft Seal Replacer
T94P-7025-DH Selector Shaft Bearing Remover/Replacer
T94P-7025-EH Pinion Spline Socket
T94P-7025-FH Gear Lever Aligning Tool
T94P-7025-GH Differential Bearing Cone Replacer
T94P-7025-HH Selector Shaft Seal Remover/Replacer
T94P-2100-AH Sub Frame Alignment Pin Set
T94P-6000-AH Power Train Alignment Gauge Set
T94P-70010-AH Transmission Range Sensor Tool

I'm confused ... where's the question for help?

Originally posted by fastcougar:
I'm confused ... where's the question for help?

Originally posted by Matt J:
So if someone would just tell me what i need on the list and add/subtract from it i would greatly appreciate it. THANKS!

Hard to answer without more info...Is he doing a straight swap? Is he doing 3L heads? 2.5L Heads? 3L Intakes? 2.5L Intakes? It makes a difference. Not to mention, all that you need is in this forum already, there ar emany threads just like this one. For each swap, there are different things to consider...

I had none of those specialty tools! I also didn't TOUCH the anything besides cams and con rod bearings.

Just Call Bill J. and let him know what you are doing. I called him a couple weeks ago and just told him I was doing a 3.0L swap using my SVT components. He just finished the part numbers before I was done telling him. Very helpful guy.

If you get more of a question it might be easier for someone to answer it. I took that same list you copied and went through using my brain to figure out what new gaskets I would need for the swap I was doing. With a little concentration I am sure you could do the same. If you try it and still are confused then develop a more specific question and I am sure someone would be happy to help.

ok thanks i apreeciate all the attempts at helping i shoulda said more but i didnt know there were so many ways.......i had a guy helping me but he stuck me out to dry and i aint gotta clue so my cars just been sitting for bout 4 months with nothing done........ok

im using the 3.0 bottom and heads with the 2.5 cams etc. and intake i belive from what i can recall him saying. I pretty much want to get it back going now with more power than what i had before as a basic start.......but since i have it all torn now i woulod like to produce as much power but at the same time i dont want a freakin 10 sec.drag car i ust spent 10gs on.....if you get what im saying. Im a bagged minitruckin draggin frame or building air struts for cars ect.....not much of an engine guy. I can do it no problem if i know what to do or saw someone do it first. So thats why i asking for specific and details about it so i can actually do myself.

I dont know where to begin so like im open to many suggestions as to whats the best way if you get what im saying there.

Is this a little more help than the first post?

ONe other thing the only thing that has been done is the 3.0l has been taken apart......heads off and everything above nothing below the heads has been remove except for like the pulleys chain and ect.......The 2.5 intakemanifold been removed fuel inectors and little numerous things but nothing else.....also the 3.0l heads have been cut for the svt gaskets....and thats it....they havent been filled in or anything else done yet bc i dont know what to do next or where to begin.

heads have been cut for the svt gaskets? wtf?

I suggest putting on new rod bearings that you can get from clevite for less than $50. The only downside to this is the rodbolts are torque to yield which mean you'll also need new rod bolts. But trust me, you want the bearings! As far as head gasket...use the 3L head gasket. your using the 3l block and the 3L heads....i mean...duh! anyways...from thereon up, all hgaskets are your 2.5 ones. You will have to port match you heads to the 2.5 lower intake. The 2.5 has split port design while the 3l is oval port. There are tons of pictures floating around on here that show you what to do. I suggest looking at demonsvt's website as he illustrates the process well. And also contact blackcoog and get his cardomain website and that shows the process as well.

port matching the 2.5 is what i was saying bout cutting the heads its already been matched just not filled to seal it out. So your saying i need to get those rod bearings for it though.

yes. It's not a "the car wont run w/o the upgrade" type of thing, but they are better bearings and it would be wise to change them. You can get them from your local NAPA or Checkerz auto store for cheap. The get ahold of bill Jenkins for some new rod bolts. It honestly will take about half hour to change them, so you might as well do it just for assurance.

Preciate all the help man. I know some people are nuisances on here by not searching and all but i did search and i was just getting a bunch of stuff that was just making things confusing if you get me.

OK with the rod bearings. WHat other mods would be a good purchase so that i want have problems with it. WHat about a clutch? Will the factory clutch hold the 3.0l. Things like that that need to be done.?

It just is a good time to change a clutch when you have the tranny out. It might not be necessary but a good idea. I thought I wouldnâ�?��?�t have too, but I bought one anyways, took the tranny out and my clutch is shot. Good thing I spend money!

My first time doing the 3L conversion I examined my stock SVT clutch and it was in good shape so I reused it. Never had an issue with it.
Now I did change it to a spec stage3 after I went turbo and had to pull the motor, but that was two years later.

I still have the clutch downstairs in the garage and it is in good shape now minus a bit of rust on the hub. It held some moderate boost on the 3L for about 2 months so the stock SVT clutch if in good condition can handle some power.