I have just completed a full 3.0 swap into my 1999 CSVT. It now has a 2001 3.0 with all the stock injectors, throttle and MAF items on it. I am working on a dummy set up for the 2.5 IMRC, it is currently not hooked up, giving me a CEL. I had some vacuum issues at start up that are now resolved. It starts and idles fine, and flat hauls when you get on it.
It has a slight hesitation from off the line, and some surging at low throttle. This causes some bucking of the car, kind of embarassing. I have only driven it 2 or 3 miles, everything seems to be good under the hood, no more leaking lines.
Any thoughts on what could be going on? I am not planning to chip the car, I have spent enough on it, I want to drive and enjoy.
Thoughts?
Originally posted by green1999csvt:
I have just completed a full 3.0 swap into my 1999 CSVT. It now has a 2001 3.0 with all the stock injectors, throttle and MAF items on it. I am working on a dummy set up for the 2.5 IMRC, it is currently not hooked up, giving me a CEL. I had some vacuum issues at start up that are now resolved. It starts and idles fine, and flat hauls when you get on it.
It has a slight hesitation from off the line, and some surging at low throttle. This causes some bucking of the car, kind of embarassing. I have only driven it 2 or 3 miles, everything seems to be good under the hood, no more leaking lines.
Any thoughts on what could be going on? I am not planning to chip the car, I have spent enough on it, I want to drive and enjoy.
Thoughts?
What kinda of intake manifolds are you running and when u say stock inkjectors do u mean green top 19# injectors or what!? 
If you're running 24lbers no wonder. It' most likely pooling up fuel. You need a tune ASAP.
The injectors came with the 2001 Taurus engine. I thnk they are tan color. I did not reuse the SVT injectors, but could switch to them. As I recall, the 3.0 looked just like the 2.5. I can look more tonite.
What is the 3.0L emblem from on your car?
Thanks
well since the post from adc about the injector sizing, id flow them before any tuning... my beige ones in my 2001 taurus motor flowed 19# at 45 psi whereas my grey ones on my 2000 taurus motor flowed 24# at 45psi. with the ford rating at 40 psi those injectors are 17# and 22# respectively.
My understanding was they were the 19# injectors and that with the 3.0 MAF they would work with my SVT PCM. I just looked at them and they are the beige ones.
Use the Contour MAF! It's matched with the PCM and injectors.
Originally posted by Yummy Mummy:
Use the Contour MAF! It's matched with the PCM and injectors.
x2
I have swapped them back and forth, doesn't seem to matter. Looking into a tune to solve low speed throttle response issues. It won't tune itself.
I will try the 2.5 MAF today, just to leave no stone unturned.
I ran it with the 2.5 MAF today and it does run better. It still stumbles on the low end, I am getting a tune so hopefully that takes care of the low end. Top end from 3000rpm up just hauls ass.
Ummm... did you say the imrc's are disconnected? as in wide open? cause if they are wide open and you are not properly tuned for it you will have cold idle and low end driveability issues.
I have a FULL 3.0 swap, EVERYTHING, so it has no IMRC stuff in the LIM anymore. I do have lo end drivability issues, but not caused by that. Thanks for the thought.
yeah but are you using a 3.0 pcm or an SVT pcm that was in the car?
I have the 2.5 SVT PCM in the car, I am trying to get ADC to convince me they know what the hell they are doing to get me to part with $400 or I am looking at a custom tune.
Well that is the reason for the driveability issues as was pointed out above. Even without the LIM with the secondaries removed the PCM still has programming for it and is still going to expect the open/closed signal from them as well as adjust fuel and timing for them.
The only way to keep that pcm and turn them off is with a chip or reflash.
That is your motivation for the tune from ADC. If you don't want ADC then try
www.brenspeed.com (I think that is the address) and see what he will do for you.
You bring up an interesting point here. Has anybody ever done the 3L swap with the 3L PCM? This will of course take care of the CEL for IMRC, and low end driveability issues, but will it work with the rest of the car? The Taurus has an automatic, etc. Potential issues with speedo, tach, gages, etc. Isn't there some kind of theft deterent with the PCM as well?
I had sent Brenspeed a note before, will try them again. I want to be sure they know what they are doing from a mail order standpoint, and the chip will work. I guess I am cheap, but I hate to spend $400 on something the guy has already done and gotten his development time out of. Guess it is just supply and demand, but it seems like a lot of money.
Originally posted by green1999csvt:
I guess I am cheap, but I hate to spend $400 on something the guy has already done and gotten his development time out of. Guess it is just supply and demand, but it seems like a lot of money.
I know exactly how you feel. 
I'm tight with my mod money too, that is why I keep reevaluating the mods I do as to whether they are really going to do something instead of just the current hype.
In the end, after I get something working I go back and see how I could have streamlined the process and reduced costs and still get the same level, or an acceptable level of performance.
That is why I did three different turbo piping setups until I found the best way, which was to use aftermarket headers for the basic setup and then make a y-pipe adaper/up-pipe assembly.
Hooray for Fastcougar because he is actually going to take the same approach and make something available for the rest you guys.
As far as Brenspeed, he is as capable as ADC when it comes to mail order, there is only so much you can do anyway. ADC or Brenspeed can cut you a decent mail order tune (normally) and they are both good about trying to help rectify any potential problems. In the end, I'd go with whoever was closer to you, the best price, and whichever one gave you the best customer service when you shop.
Good luck but I think you'll find that $400 will be well spent.
Originally posted by green1999csvt:
It has a slight hesitation from off the line, and some surging at low throttle. This causes some bucking of the car, kind of embarassing. I have only driven it 2 or 3 miles, everything seems to be good under the hood, no more leaking lines.
Thoughts?
I got the same problem with a chip.
Who did you get your chip from? Was is mail order or did they burn it based on a dyno tune of your car? Mine is 100% done except for the tune.
Go with ADC, they know their stuff. LOTS of experience with our engines, 3L and not
This comment isn't meant to slam ADC or any other vendor that works hard to help us out. However, when it comes to chips for YOUR car, the best solution is to take YOUR car to a tuner for a custom tune. Reason being, you car is vastly different than my car and trying to develop a chip for both is going to be a compromise. Not to mention, this process makes a lot of assumptions that getting a custom tune in-person will not make.
My advice: choose a chip maker, then look at their website for a tuner in your area. Call that tuner and schedule an appointment for some dyno time & tune.
Yes, it will cost more, but will get done right the first time. I can't tell you how many times I have seen people send in mail-order chips again and again just to get a marginal tune.
That would be the best option. Unfortunately, I don't have anyone in the area that tunes Fords at all. There are only a couple of dyno's in the area, both working primarily on GM vehicles. I did get an awesome tune through Brenspeed, but I provided him with my dynographs and every bit of information I could. I also knew that he was willing to make changes for no charge, if it wasn't where I wanted it. I'm very happy with my mail order tune(Xcal2).
Mark