Todd&Stazi's â�?��?budgetâ�?� 3L straight swap info/costs

Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

Low mileage 01+ Taurus 3L $500 from LQK
Upgraded Oil Pump Pickup Screen YL8Z-6622-BA ($28)
Upgraded Oil Pan with Baffles 3M4Z-6675-BA ($109)
SVT throttle body F7RZ-9E926-AA ($186)
SVT bracket F8RZ-9677-AA ($48)
SVT Throttle Cable XS8Z-9A758-CA ($42)
01+ Mercury Cougar motor mount 1S7Z3A732AA $32.72
http://www.fototime.com/59BAC07E473F2A0/orig.jpg
Long Bolts: W704693S309 $5.22/EA. LIST
Short Bolts: W704694S309 $3.53/EA. LIST
Brazed/ modified fuel rail. About $100+ to have done if youâ�?��?�re not up to it
http://www.fototime.com/08B117EDCCEAC3B/orig.jpg
Connecting Rod Bolts F3LY-6214-A need 12 ($23)
Clevite 77 rod bearings #CB-1772P ($35 from Napa)
Exhaust manifold gaskets(one time use) $6 each, need 2
BCA part# 482041N Oil Seal, Front Timing Cover. $8
2.5 Right Front Timing Cover Gasket F5RZ-6020-A $5
2.5 Center Front Timing Cover Gasket F5RZ-6020-B $5
2.5 Left Front Timing Cover Gasket F5RZ-6020-C $5
2.5 Right Valve Cover Gasket F5RZ-6584-B $11
2.5 Left Valve Cover Gasket F5RZ-6584-C $11
2.5 Spark Plug Tube Seals ($2/ea., come in packs of 2)F5RZ-6C527-A
When you have the 2.5 timing and valve covers off oil seal and gaskets need to be replaced.

Tap for knock sensor is M12x1.5. I drill it out with a 3/8 bit first and then tap the hole.

Swap over oil sensor and the 2 sensors on the head coolant cross over tube. Put a little RTV on these before reinstalling.

There will also be points on the block the will need new RTV. Youâ�?��?�ll see them when you pull the old covers off. Take a razor blade and clean these areas before fresh RTV.

The vacuum can be done for free using the vac pieces from both engines. A piece of vac needs to be purchased to run from the brake booster to one of the UIM ports.

On car
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http://www.fototime.com/CB780BD77DA833D/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/7BB2D43F9BE867A/orig.jpg

Off car
http://www.fototime.com/A1FF38FFE2BCCDB/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/12FF8A7FCA83EB2/orig.jpg

If you already have an SVT then swap over the cams, chains, guides, and tensioners. The having the SVT TB, bracket, cable already is also another bonus.

The EGR tubes of both engines have to be cut and joined together. Either by brazing or by a 5/8 brass compression fitting.

http://www.fototime.com/6CF78C282539675/orig.jpg

So about $900 if you have an SVT. If you donâ�?��?�t have an SVT TB and find a used one then order the SVT bracket and cable ($90) and braze the SVT and Taurus TB bracket together. The plastic cam needs to be dremeled a bit as well.

http://www.fototime.com/E629D2613D0EAA1/orig.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/565D616371DE35A/orig.jpg

Hoepfully this helps some peeps out.

This might be a good sticky. I pretty much summed up a lot of scattered info. If you don't like the Taurus UIM then port match the heads for the 2.5 UIM a la Demon's web page. Bolt up all your 2.5 bits and be good to go.

Click for info.

You're also doing to need a tune. Figure about $350 for a x-cal & tune from Brenspeed. Add a dyno time for the best tune on top of that.

Adds to favorites!

Thanks, this did help me out.

Originally posted by todras:
Don't have the part number for the 3 circle gaskets for the plug holes on the valve cover so call Bill Jenkins.

I have a set in the glovebox ... give me a minute ... don't ask

Originally posted by fastcougar:

Originally posted by todras:
Don't have the part number for the 3 circle gaskets for the plug holes on the valve cover so call Bill Jenkins.

I have a set in the glovebox ... give me a minute ... don't ask

F5RZ-6C527-A ($2/each, come in packs of 2)

Tnx, updated.

Thanks for posting this up Todd; I know we talked about this just yesterday, lol.

On Edit - you might want to specify that the brazed fuel rail is not required for returnless cars.

You were the prod.

. Also kids do not do this swap w/o upgrading the trans. You have everything out. You might as well do it right. Have it shipped to Terry for the LSD of your choice and have worn internals replaced. Figure about $1500. Tune, trans, and 3L figure about $2750 on the low end.

What would be VERY helpfull would be to diagram out the vacuum connections and explain what each does

Originally posted by Rara:

On Edit - you might want to specify that the brazed fuel rail is not required for returnless cars.

Can anyone confirm what needs to be done on a retunless car. I thought the Taurus FR was opposite (flipped) compared to the Tour. Can't use the Contour FR because of the bolt pattern on the LIM.

Todd, if no one else has the info, I'll see if I can figure it out when my car comes back from the body shop.

Originally posted by fastcougar:
What would be VERY helpfull would be to diagram out the vacuum connections and explain what each does

I'll take some better pics then the ones I have this w/e. I'm doing a swap for a CEGer.

Todd this is awesome stuff, puts things into perspective after we were talkinga bout 3.0's and such

Remember, no labor is included in this breakdown.

True. This all do it yourself info peeps. And good luck finding someone that has the experience outside of this forum.

You'll also need an engine stand and engine hoist. Various tools for the disassembling the suspension and engine too.

Originally posted by todras:

Originally posted by Rara:

On Edit - you might want to specify that the brazed fuel rail is not required for returnless cars.

Can anyone confirm what needs to be done on a retunless car. I thought the Taurus FR was opposite (flipped) compared to the Tour. Can't use the Contour FR because of the bolt pattern on the LIM.

Escape fuel rail should do the trick

Excellent information! Thanks a bunch to you and Stazi for doing great things for our platform and our site. I also appreciate the way you guys keep us all laughing. Please keep up the great work in both departments.

Mark

This is a very good bit of information. Glad its broke down so well.

you guys are great i am asking all kinda Questions bout the swap and damn i gotta say you nailed them all ... just if i can put your info on here into action .. lol .. hope so ... this will be my first engine CSVT swap and my third ford motors engine swap first 2 were 5.0's and third one was a ZX2 VVT engine, all a different world .... wish me luck ...

SpdySVT

This really should be stickied.

Originally posted by JReebs96sport:
This really should be stickied.

Agreed. Viola!

Originally posted by bnoon:

Originally posted by JReebs96sport:
This really should be stickied.

Agreed. Viola!

Thank you!

im thinking about getting a contour in the near future so I can be ready for the shootout at spring zing. this is great info.

Phil

Originally posted by tod "choco vag" ras:
Tap for knock sensor is M12x1.5. I drill it out with a 3/8 bit first and then tap the hole.

OK, i've a question here....

why is it a 'better' option to tap into the block when you could wire in the knock sensor from the 3L??
I spliced and soldered in the newer style knock sensor, as i felt this was easier, cheaper, and likely even more reliable then reusing the old part. It seemed to have worked for me anyway.

Anyone have any insight on this?

Beats me. I also wired in the new one since it is just a two wire sensor.

Originally posted by warmonger:
Beats me. I also wired in the new one since it is just a two wire sensor.

This is Todd's preference (tapping the block) - I too just rewire the plug.

So if we port match the heads to the SVT LIM which fuel rail would bee needed? Still have to braze it or will the stock rail work? GReat info BTW Stazi.
-tropictour

From what I've read, using the svt lim and uim allows you to bolt on everything from the svt lim on up, including fuel rail, throttlebody / bracket etc.

Originally posted by tropictour:
So if we port match the heads to the SVT LIM which fuel rail would bee needed? Still have to braze it or will the stock rail work? GReat info BTW Stazi.
-tropictour

Which do you think??

Seeing as you're port matching to use the SVT LIM wouldn't it makes sense that EVERYTHING on the LIM is retained?

Just double checking. You know how it is the first time you do something. You want to try to have the least amount of hicups.

It will be going down this fall hopefully. Thanks again.
-tropictour

ok so with a returnless cougar, your saying alls i have to do is switch the fuel rail to an 01 escape rail, and make the connection? no brazing, welding, hot glueing or nothing?

The '01 and up Escape motors work fine with the 3.0L swaps too, right?

Yep if you're using the split port UIM. If not you're going to need the Taurus UIM etc.