Whats the best motor to use???

Originally posted by posthuman63t:

Originally posted by touredon:
um... 426 Hemi?

I hate Hemi's...the entire Dodge platform has Hemi's...its sickening.

13b

Originally posted by posthuman63t:

Originally posted by touredon:
um... 426 Hemi?

I hate Hemi's...the entire Dodge platform has Hemi's...its sickening.

those aren't hemis...

I'll be a little less vague here, the NEW "Hemi's" regardless of size, have led me to hate hemi's in general. Don't blame me, blame them. Or blame me cuz i'm stubborn? hehe

Use a 50

2 big block

boosted k20

Originally posted by stocksvtcontour:
Use a 50 2 big block

screw that, here's my new set up I'm working on!

Alright so I should use a 2002 taurus/sable... Thanks to all for your help I really did appreciate it

Originally posted by RTStabler51:

Originally posted by stocksvtcontour:
Use a 50 2 big block

screw that, here's my new set up I'm working on!

wtf is that... is that guy riding on top?

Originally posted by Stazi:
2002+ Taurus/Sable - cheap, tons of them around, and can be found with low miles.

The Escape motors are alway 50-100% more expensive.

Yeah, but you can be more exclusive.

Isn't a modified Contour exclusive enough?

escape may be more expensive....but factor in the cost of the oil pan and pickup if you buy a taruus/sable motor.....mine is a 2003 sable with 15K on it...

Originally posted by Russell-3L:
escape may be more expensive....but factor in the cost of the oil pan and pickup if you buy a taruus/sable motor.....mine is a 2003 sable with 15K on it...

how much did you pick that up for?

i think it was around 500-550 shipped like a year ago

Originally posted by Stazi:
2002+ Taurus/Sable - cheap, tons of them around, and can be found with low miles.

The Escape motors are alway 50-100% more expensive.

Should i be going for the 2003 taurus engine with 30k, or 2001 with 11k if the prices are near the same? Because i thought all 2001+ would do the job fine.

Originally posted by warmonger:

Originally posted by Stazi:
2002+ Taurus/Sable - cheap, tons of them around, and can be found with low miles.

The Escape motors are alway 50-100% more expensive.

Yeah, but you can be more exclusive.

How bout using a 96 engine.

j/k stay the hell away from my Karma lol

Originally posted by Tourige:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:

Originally posted by stocksvtcontour:
Use a 50 2 big block

screw that, here's my new set up I'm working on!
http://www.tractorpulling.com/report/images/wierden1999/seasideaffair.jpg

wtf is that... is that guy riding on top?

That is a super modified tractor.

Originally posted by RTStabler51:

Originally posted by posthuman63t:

Originally posted by touredon:
um... 426 Hemi?

I hate Hemi's...the entire Dodge platform has Hemi's...its sickening.

those aren't hemis...

Thank you.

What about a 1999 Taurus 3.0 Duratec? I can get one pretty much complete for a tad less than $200. The odo in the car says 99k miles. My plans are to rebuild it while I still have my stock SVT 2.5 in my 'tour...

Originally posted by SVTDave:
What about a 1999 Taurus 3.0 Duratec? I can get one pretty much complete for a tad less than $200. The odo in the car says 99k miles. My plans are to rebuild it while I still have my stock SVT 2.5 in my 'tour...

I beieve with the 99 motor you will have to make a hybrid and you will have to modify the bellhouseing. It is a hell of a lot more work than an 01+ oval port swap. But if you don't mind doing some extra work...

Why "start fresh" with an engine with almost 100K on it already? I know, I know.. you would "rebuild" it, but you're still using a 100K mile engine that's been rebuilt.

Why not pay $100-$250 more and get an 01+ with 15K or 10K(or hell even LESS if you search around) miles?

Originally posted by Ray:
Why "start fresh" with an engine with almost 100K on it already? I know, I know.. you would "rebuild" it, but you're still using a 100K mile engine that's been rebuilt.

Why not pay $100-$250 more and get an 01+ with 15K or 10K(or hell even LESS if you search around) miles?

excactly, by the time you add in the 'rebuild' cost you could have bought a brand new short block

Originally posted by Ray:
Why "start fresh" with an engine with almost 100K on it already? I know, I know.. you would "rebuild" it, but you're still using a 100K mile engine that's been rebuilt.

Why not pay $100-$250 more and get an 01+ with 15K or 10K(or hell even LESS if you search around) miles?

I wish i could find that price.

Originally posted by Ray:
Why "start fresh" with an engine with almost 100K on it already? I know, I know.. you would "rebuild" it, but you're still using a 100K mile engine that's been rebuilt.

Why not pay $100-$250 more and get an 01+ with 15K or 10K(or hell even LESS if you search around) miles?

Well, that's why I was asking you guys' advice!

Now I know to get an '01+ engine...see, isn't that how this forum stuff is supposed to work?

Thanks for the response. As you can probably tell, I'm still in the "gathering info" stage. My car is in great running condition as of right now...I'm just wanting an engine I can take my time to rebuild and make right without taking my driveable car off the road.

Originally posted by SVTDave:

Originally posted by Ray:
Why "start fresh" with an engine with almost 100K on it already? I know, I know.. you would "rebuild" it, but you're still using a 100K mile engine that's been rebuilt.

Why not pay $100-$250 more and get an 01+ with 15K or 10K(or hell even LESS if you search around) miles?

Well, that's why I was asking you guys' advice!

Now I know to get an '01+ engine...see, isn't that how this forum stuff is supposed to work?

Thanks for the response. As you can probably tell, I'm still in the "gathering info" stage. My car is in great running condition as of right now...I'm just wanting an engine I can take my time to rebuild and make right without taking my driveable car off the road.

Yes, but that information has been passed numerous times nad is also in the stickies.

Originally posted by RTStabler51:

Originally posted by SVTDave:

Originally posted by Ray:
Why "start fresh" with an engine with almost 100K on it already? I know, I know.. you would "rebuild" it, but you're still using a 100K mile engine that's been rebuilt.

Why not pay $100-$250 more and get an 01+ with 15K or 10K(or hell even LESS if you search around) miles?

Well, that's why I was asking you guys' advice!

Now I know to get an '01+ engine...see, isn't that how this forum stuff is supposed to work?

Thanks for the response. As you can probably tell, I'm still in the "gathering info" stage. My car is in great running condition as of right now...I'm just wanting an engine I can take my time to rebuild and make right without taking my driveable car off the road.

Yes, but that information has been passed numerous times nad is also in the stickies.

I didn't see where anyone listed reasons why 01's are better to use than 99's. But my question is now answered...isn't that the important part? And the reason forums like this exist?

Originally posted by giddyup306:

Originally posted by SVTDave:
What about a 1999 Taurus 3.0 Duratec? I can get one pretty much complete for a tad less than $200. The odo in the car says 99k miles. My plans are to rebuild it while I still have my stock SVT 2.5 in my 'tour...

I beieve with the 99 motor you will have to make a hybrid and you will have to modify the bellhouseing. It is a hell of a lot more work than an 01+ oval port swap. But if you don't mind doing some extra work...

A hybrid is more work than an oval port swap?!?! Now that's a good one!

Total B.S. You have to modify the bell housing on all 3L's when mating a 3L to the Contour transaxle, or clearancing the extra tang for the SVT cooler. For the oval port head swap, you either have to modify the heads for the twin port Contour manifolds, or fabricate a fuel line (if you've got a return system).

The fact is, there is no "best" engine out there that fits everyone's needs. To some, "best" is going to get them the most HP ('01+ oval port to twin port adaptation seems to be the hot ticket). To others, "best" is going to be as cheap as possible (junkyard '99 hybrid for less than $850 total for mine). To others, it's going to be which one is easy... then that brings up which one everyone thinks is easiest... and that's another opinion based answer.

Originally posted by SVTDave:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:

Originally posted by SVTDave:

Originally posted by Ray:
Why "start fresh" with an engine with almost 100K on it already? I know, I know.. you would "rebuild" it, but you're still using a 100K mile engine that's been rebuilt.

Why not pay $100-$250 more and get an 01+ with 15K or 10K(or hell even LESS if you search around) miles?

Well, that's why I was asking you guys' advice!

Now I know to get an '01+ engine...see, isn't that how this forum stuff is supposed to work?

Thanks for the response. As you can probably tell, I'm still in the "gathering info" stage. My car is in great running condition as of right now...I'm just wanting an engine I can take my time to rebuild and make right without taking my driveable car off the road.

Yes, but that information has been passed numerous times nad is also in the stickies.

I didn't see where anyone listed reasons why 01's are better to use than 99's. But my question is now answered...isn't that the important part? And the reason forums like this exist?

Your right, not in this specific thread.
01+ are preferred because of a redesign/cast piston design..I can't remember which.

Originally posted by SVTDave:

I didn't see where anyone listed reasons why 01's are better to use than 99's. But my question is now answered...isn't that the important part? And the reason forums like this exist?

I think the whole thing is that the 01+s have an extra drain back hole (and you can use the 3.0l heads). 3l valve are in and you don't have to replace the head gaskets. Much less work is required to make it work. That is if you can only use the 2.5 heads... I know for damn sure that anything with the 2.5 heads had the oil puddiling problem (but you can modify that too).

Originally posted by giddyup306:

Originally posted by SVTDave:

I didn't see where anyone listed reasons why 01's are better to use than 99's. But my question is now answered...isn't that the important part? And the reason forums like this exist?

I think the whole thing is that the 01+s have an extra drain back hole (and you can use the 3.0l heads). 3l valve are in and you don't have to replace the head gaskets. Much less work is required to make it work. That is if you can only use the 2.5 heads... I know for damn sure that anything with the 2.5 heads had the oil puddiling problem (but you can modify that too).

WUT!?

What are you confused about????

Originally posted by giddyup306:

Originally posted by SVTDave:

I didn't see where anyone listed reasons why 01's are better to use than 99's. But my question is now answered...isn't that the important part? And the reason forums like this exist?

I think the whole thing is that the 01+s have an extra drain back hole (and you can use the 3.0l heads). 3l valve are in and you don't have to replace the head gaskets. Much less work is required to make it work. That is if you can only use the 2.5 heads... I know for damn sure that anything with the 2.5 heads had the oil puddiling problem (but you can modify that too).

For N/A engines yes. For FI'd engines then the revised piston on the '01+ engines is much better.