3L rebuild/install for a college class NEED HELP!

Actually a recent escape engine will make things much easier as you wouldn't have to swap the front timing cover and oilpan...

You have to figure out which intake manifolds you are planning on using...
You can use your stock intakes on the contour which will need port matching or use a taurus upper intake manifold along with the rest of the escape intake components... Using the taurus intake manifold will mean a little welding to get the throttle body bracket to work, and some sort of custom tubing to hook up the EGR... (I would just delete the EGR and get it tuned accordingly)

An LSD is a good idea, either torsen or quaife along with an upgraded clutch and why not even headers when your all in there!

You will also need some sort of tuning to get all this runnning properly...

In my opinion find a 04 Ford Escape 3.0 DOHC engine... Swap the rod and main bearings with Clevite bearings... Trim the necessary ears on the block... Get your taurus upper intake manifold, mod the throttle body bracket & either ditch or mod the EGR and get it tuned... Add LSD, clutch, headers and you'll be all set

Originally posted by 96BlackSE:
In my opinion find a 04 Ford Escape 3.0 DOHC engine... Swap the rod and main bearings with Clevite bearings... Trim the necessary ears on the block... Get your taurus upper intake manifold, mod the throttle body bracket & either ditch or mod the EGR and get it tuned... Add LSD, clutch, headers and you'll be all set

Or save yourslef $300-400 and get a +02 Taurus Sable Duratec (Vin F) and just reuse your Contour's timing cover, valve cover etc., and buy an updated Escape oil pan from Bill Jenkins at Team Ford.

Originally posted by Stazi:

Or save yourslef $300-400 and get a +02 Taurus Sable Duratec (Vin F) and just reuse your Contour's timing cover, valve cover etc., and buy an updated Escape oil pan from Bill Jenkins at Team Ford.

Vin S!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 3:12AM? Someone sleep posting?

Originally posted by todras:

Originally posted by Stazi:

Or save yourslef $300-400 and get a +02 Taurus Sable Duratec (Vin F) and just reuse your Contour's timing cover, valve cover etc., and buy an updated Escape oil pan from Bill Jenkins at Team Ford.

Vin S!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 3:12AM? Someone sleep posting?

No ish. I was like when the hell did they change it to 'F'

Originally posted by todras:

Originally posted by Stazi:

Or save yourslef $300-400 and get a +02 Taurus Sable Duratec (Vin F) and just reuse your Contour's timing cover, valve cover etc., and buy an updated Escape oil pan from Bill Jenkins at Team Ford.

Vin S!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 3:12AM? Someone sleep posting?

Almost.

NOTE TO SELF: no more posting at 3am.

Originally posted by kscontourkid:

1) can I drop a whole 3.0L into my contour?(getting the whole engine from another car, taking my 2.5L out, trash the 2.5 as a whole and put the rebuilt 3.0L in its place)

I was thinking of the escape engine because of this

Sweet now about how long is this going to take to mod everything?

to answer your question mike yes i am taking a performance tuning class.

i read the "20 pg dissertation" about tuning and it somewhat frightens me. if say i use the taurus engine what injector #s and what MAF do i need to make the damn thing run "out of the box?"

Is the diff and the clutch absolutely necessary? or can i get away with what is in the car?

right now as it stands i may just be doing a 2.5L rebuild, tune and drop in. but i will decide that in another forum if i choose that route.

until then please keep the info flowing this is exactly what i was hoping for. you guys are the best!

ok enough sucking up back to business

i need a VIN "S" motor out of a Taurus/Sable/Escape...right?
what is the earliest year engine i can use? '98? in that area? im getting the engine from a junkyard and i dont think i will be able to get a later model engine...this may be a deciding factor.

Big Major Question...This is the whole reason i want to do this...my engine right now has a leaking front cover. it is apparently leaking onto the alternator and frying them left and right and ford wants 1,000+ to fix it.(haha who do they think i am...some dumb kid? no pun intended)

I figured the 3.0L would be just an all round better engine(reliability, power, fuel economy...im only getting 20mpg strange thing is no matter how i drive the car it still gets 20mpg...anyway) i am hoping though that the cost will be manageable, which leads me to my next big question...

please anyone who HAS completed this project chime in.

What is the approximate price to get all this done? the engine should cost around $200+parts

how much has it costed you guys?(approx. round if necessary)

thank you so much ill be checking back frequently

The approx price depends on what all you replace. Most people upgrade their clutch and flywheel, and throw an lsd in at this time cause its the easiest time to. People replace their syncros (sp?) and buy an upgraded shift tower as well. So...anywhere from...$1000 to $3000 if you do the work yourself I think is a fair estimate.

As far as needing to upgrade your tranny with an LSD...is it bsolutely necessary to have to drive the car...no. You do not need to upgrade...but the stock Diff is a very weak part in our cars, and it won't last long at all if you bang on it a couple of times. And while the engine is out and the tranny is out, this is the time you should invest a few more dollars and be sure that you have nothing to worry about. 99.9% of people here wll tell you your stupid if you do not replace your dif with a quaife or torsen...and I agree.

If I include my clutch, flywheel, and trans in with my 3L...im well near 4k.

Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoâ�??¢:
If I include my clutch, flywheel, and trans in with my 3L...im well near 4k.

ew...with my clutch, flywheel, headers, lsd, st, I will be a little over $2k. BUT, add the PRP from the group buy and that number increases...

thank you guys I think it will be under way in the next week.

so the least i can get away with is a diff/lsd? cool i think i can do that.

i spoke with my tuning man and he re enforced that the whole project sounds very straight forward.

i have just a few final questions to save me some painful research time if you guys dont mind. the rest i will read about then ask questions.

1st i plan to go with an older taurus engine...best i can get my hands on unless i get VERY lucky. will the stock MAF and injectors from the taurus work to get me running? if not please tell me the best way to make the car "run" before tuning.

2nd with the taurus engine what specific parts do i need to switch or jerry rig to fit the engine in.

3rd will mtx tranny fit right up to the taurus motor or do i need to do some jerry rigging?

4th what do i do with the IMRC and how does the 3L open the 2ndaries?

5th is there anything im missing...

?

thanks guys updates on the progress will be plentiful

Older engine? thats your 1st mistake. get an 01+ at least. I got an 03 taurus engine for $300. There is a number of extra things you have to do with a older engine.

the least you can get away with is a diff/lsd? I dont knwo what that means, but if you dont get a LSD...you might as well not even drive the thing.

#2, and 3 search like we all had to do. all the info is here and can be found in about 5 minutes.

the 3L doesn't use the IMRC.

Warmonger has done the swap with the early engine and can tell you what you need to do to work with it. Yoou might want to PM him. It is extra work that can be avoided if you use the 01 and later block. Using the old style block certainly isn't the preferred way.

unfortunatly im screwed i have the "go ahead" from my dad but...i can only find pre '01 engines.

thank you guys for going easy on me with my questions i will do some deep searching and try to find the answers to my questions.

on the older 3L block it appears that the IMRC is indeed used

at least there is a computer box in the same place as my existing IMRC on the 3Ls i have found. is my assumption correct?

cross your fingers for me guys im gonna give this a shot.

Try LKQ...should be able to find a post 01 3L and they will usually order one in for you at no extra charge...

Originally posted by posthuman63t:

the 3L doesn't use the IMRC.

My 96 3l had IMRC.

Don't be afraid of an older engine. Especially if you don't mind doing some extra work..... Also I know for a fact that the 96 engine WILL work I have mine bolted together as we speak.. All you have to do is modify the bellhousing a bit. Use the tour oil pan, notch the block (just barely 1/4"), and drill and tap another hole under the starter! That's it!!! The rest of the std tour parts should bolt up (but you will have to use the tours heads)...

Originally posted by giddyup306:

Originally posted by posthuman63t:

the 3L doesn't use the IMRC.

My 96 3l had IMRC.

Don't be afraid of an older engine. Especially if you don't mind doing some extra work..... Also I know for a fact that the 96 engine WILL work I have mine bolted together as we speak.. All you have to do is modify the bellhousing a bit. Use the tour oil pan, notch the block (just barely 1/4"), and drill and tap another hole under the starter! That's it!!! The rest of the std tour parts should bolt up (but you will have to use the tours heads)...

Oh yeah!! You are correct bout that extra notch for the tip of the starter bendix. lol it has been 5+ years for me so I do tend to forget going that far back.
But from everyting you've said it is the same as I remember it.
Not too hard is it?

Originally posted by warmonger:

Originally posted by giddyup306:

Originally posted by posthuman63t:

the 3L doesn't use the IMRC.

My 96 3l had IMRC.

Don't be afraid of an older engine. Especially if you don't mind doing some extra work..... Also I know for a fact that the 96 engine WILL work I have mine bolted together as we speak.. All you have to do is modify the bellhousing a bit. Use the tour oil pan, notch the block (just barely 1/4"), and drill and tap another hole under the starter! That's it!!! The rest of the std tour parts should bolt up (but you will have to use the tours heads)...

Oh yeah!! You are correct bout that extra notch for the tip of the starter bendix. lol it has been 5+ years for me so I do tend to forget going that far back.
But from everyting you've said it is the same as I remember it.
Not too hard is it?

No it is not.

kscontourkid,

Feel free to PM me if you need any more info. I bet if you'd ask Tom nicely (warmonger), he'd help ya as well.

Take her easy. If she's easy take her twice.

Hey, have you got that thing bolted back together and in the car?
Are you driving it yet?
I can't wait to hear that its running and eventually see a baseline dyno of it.

Originally posted by giddyup306:

Originally posted by posthuman63t:

the 3L doesn't use the IMRC.

My 96 3l had IMRC.

Don't be afraid of an older engine. Especially if you don't mind doing some extra work..... Also I know for a fact that the 96 engine WILL work I have mine bolted together as we speak.. All you have to do is modify the bellhousing a bit. Use the tour oil pan, notch the block (just barely 1/4"), and drill and tap another hole under the starter! That's it!!! The rest of the std tour parts should bolt up (but you will have to use the tours heads)...

I stand corrected. I didn't know anyone was running a 3L with their IMRC still hooked up. Nice to see something different.

Originally posted by posthuman63t:

Originally posted by giddyup306:

Originally posted by posthuman63t:

the 3L doesn't use the IMRC.

My 96 3l had IMRC.

Don't be afraid of an older engine. Especially if you don't mind doing some extra work..... Also I know for a fact that the 96 engine WILL work I have mine bolted together as we speak.. All you have to do is modify the bellhousing a bit. Use the tour oil pan, notch the block (just barely 1/4"), and drill and tap another hole under the starter! That's it!!! The rest of the std tour parts should bolt up (but you will have to use the tours heads)...

I stand corrected. I didn't know anyone was running a 3L with their IMRC still hooked up. Nice to see something different.

What???

You haven't been reading anything posted by me then.

Originally posted by warmonger:
Hey, have you got that thing bolted back together and in the car?
Are you driving it yet?
I can't wait to hear that its running and eventually see a baseline dyno of it.

Tom,

Well I've run into a problem. I'm waiting on the heads. My buddy needs a 1/4" cutter to cut the valve seats. The smallest he has is a 5/16". Hopefully the toolmaker will have the tool done this week... I hope that it is done by the end of the month (far after my target period.....waddayado). I won't have dynos till this summer so I guess it won't really matter.

FWIW I used the Ford way of cleaning the block. Nothing but the orange sented cleaner and a plastic scraper......

You'll be the first to know.

This will lay down 260 at the wheels right. Untunded.

j/k

hey guys i hate to be the bearer of bad and unfortunate news but i ended up getting a 2.5L

it was $125 in damn good condition and i couldnt find a 3L soon enough for a decent price.

so i will bid the fairwell and maybe i will come back to it in the future when i have more money. now for anyone who wants to give a kid some power making pointers for a 2.5L i will open a thread in the 2.5L section. and one more question for you guys who may not have used your svt cams im looking for a set to put in my new engine thanks guys for all your help peace.

If you think you can make 200whp from a 2.5L - you're dreaming; I'll set you straight up front.

125$ is a great deal for a 2.5 litre...but you are gonna lose your azz building up an inferior motor

It can be done, but it will definitely cost you:

11.5+:1 CR pistons = $700 minimum (get revised ring lands)
Headers = $350-$650 (used vs. new)
Optimized exhaust = $400+
Rod Bearings = $40
Rod Bolts = $15
Rebuild Gaskets, Seals & Fluids = $400-$500
Optimized Dyno Tune (DO NOT go mail order, dyno needed here) = $600-$1,000

Don't forget a Torsen or Quaife + install = $1,200 minimum

Originally posted by Stazi:
If you think you can make 200whp from a 2.5L - you're dreaming; I'll set you straight up front.

im not exactly looking for something super this is my first engine rebuild so i dont expect it to be a race engine i just have to use what i have and make the best out of it. id just like to at least get it up to around svt spec or so id like to get 3L power but like MapOfTaziFoSho said i am playing with an inferior engine. i am already regretting my dicision. this is just going to be shall we call it a lesson in rebuilding and minor tuning. i still have advanced engine rebuild to go through and then performance tuning. so that is 2 opportunities to drop in a 3L. i wouldnt want to Fcuk up a good engine. just curiously how much power can i expect from the 2.5L 160-170whp? little less? this is also my car to get me through college so having a "new" engine in it at all will help. come the end of college i will buy a new car and garage the tour for serious work.

forced induction?

so that is my placing at the moment unfortunate but at least im not rebuilding some POS 4-banger

I did 160whp with my old 2.5 Litre...all SVT unduction plus gutted exh manifolds plus a 2.5in cat back...that was without tune and no SVT cams. On my 3L with SVT cams plus plastic oval port intake manifolds, and same exhaust as the 2.5L I am hoping to tune it out to over 200whp.

well after reading and debating with myself i may just go buy the 96 3L after all and do a conversion with the 2.5L i have and turn the 96 3L into a possible candidate for touring. i will go ahead and start taking the 2.5 apart tonight and see where i am. correct me if im wrong but all i should really need is a 3L block crank and pistons in order to make the conversion. then i will scrap the idea of svt cams(cause the money for them will be into the 3L block) we'll see

Originally posted by kscontourkid:
well after reading and debating with myself i may just go buy the 96 3L after all and do a conversion with the 2.5L i have and turn the 96 3L into a possible candidate for touring. i will go ahead and start taking the 2.5 apart tonight and see where i am. correct me if im wrong but all i should really need is a 3L block crank and pistons in order to make the conversion. then i will scrap the idea of svt cams(cause the money for them will be into the 3L block) we'll see

Go check your other thread my man...

Originally posted by kscontourkid:
correct me if im wrong but all i should really need is a 3L block crank and pistons in order to make the conversion.

All I used for my 96 3L swap is the 3l short block. As a matter of fact, the 2.5s have the timing marks for the 3L and the 2.5 both on them (from what I've seen...can't speak for all).

FWIW I am the only person that has EVER attempted a 96 3L swap and one of 3 to do a pre 99 3L... Just make sure that your engine is VIN S.

Mike

Mike thank you i will be needing a lot of help from you and warmonger. this is the deal after about 9 hours busting my @$$ 2 friends and i pulled what was what i thought would be a 96 3L out it turned out to be a 98 so that should mean i do not need to modify the transmission bolt pattern on the block correct. i have the whole 3L and a whole 2.5L to play with. am i correct to put the heads and front engine cover from the 2.5L onto the 3L and everything will be honky-dory? please correct me if im wrong. thanx man o by the way the 3L looks in great shape and has good compression...YES!

OK another new update after reading my other thread...my budget i said i had was less than $200 "for an engine" as for parts id like to keep it as low as possible but... i expect to total around $1500 hopefully give or take a few hundred and whether i get a quaife or not(i know i need one but it is up to my parents and or i am also going to save what little money i have left from my paychecks for one)

Originally posted by kscontourkid:
Mike thank you i will be needing a lot of help from you and warmonger. this is the deal after about 9 hours busting my @$$ 2 friends and i pulled what was what i thought would be a 96 3L out it turned out to be a 98 so that should mean i do not need to modify the transmission bolt pattern on the block correct. i have the whole 3L and a whole 2.5L to play with. am i correct to put the heads and front engine cover from the 2.5L onto the 3L and everything will be honky-dory? please correct me if im wrong. thanx man o by the way the 3L looks in great shape and has good compression...YES!

98 will need to modify the bellhousing. I suggest that you cc the heads and correct them accordingly. The hybrid will have 11.25:1 CR as-is. You will need to take some material off of the side of the combustion chamber to make it a resonable compression ratio. Just get a simple graduated clyinder and a plexiglass cover. You can use bearing grease to stick the plate to the head.

But honestly Tom is the guy you need to talk to. He has done many of these hybrids.

Don't worrie it's not hard. Especially if your willing to do some work.

Mike

Originally posted by kscontourkid:
OK another new update after reading my other thread...my budget i said i had was less than $200 "for an engine" as for parts id like to keep it as low as possible but... i expect to total around $1500 hopefully give or take a few hundred and whether i get a quaife or not(i know i need one but it is up to my parents and or i am also going to save what little money i have left from my paychecks for one)

KC,

Do me a favor and take the case apart of your transaxle and look at the side and pinion gears. If you want to get by uber cheap at LEAST replace them!!! The weak point is not the gears tho but the caseing which flexes....

Mike

Q: Which year 3 liter should I use for my MTX-75 or ATX car?

A: Late '98 the bolt pattern of the Taurus transmission was changed to match that of the MTX-75 transmission, prior years can be modified to fit with some amount of modifications

this is from buckshot motorsports. this is where i may have been confused about getting a 98 motor would solve the block and tranny mod problem and the tranny would just bolt up. is this correct?

Originally posted by kscontourkid:
OK another new update after reading my other thread...my budget i said i had was less than $200 "for an engine" as for parts id like to keep it as low as possible but... i expect to total around $1500 hopefully give or take a few hundred and whether i get a quaife or not(i know i need one but it is up to my parents and or i am also going to save what little money i have left from my paychecks for one)

The 98 motor is no different than the 96 in regards to the transmission mods. Don't worry, its not hard.
Giddyup is the most recent member to do it and will have the sharper memory because of it, but I'll answer any questions I can.

ok i just found (after 2hours of extensive searching) Mikes 3L swap thread. i think it will help me tremendously but i do have some questions to clearify what i have read. mainly about valve springs.

2.5 or 3L valve springs for the 3L valves. in the thread it says use stock springs. to me that could mean one of 3 different sets SVT, stock 2.5 or 3L my teacher questioned that too.

thanks

oh one more thing...is there anything else i might want to save off of the 3L i begin stripping it next class period(monday)

ive got:
block (duh!)
valves
LIM

TB?
MAF?

Originally posted by kscontourkid:
ok i just found (after 2hours of extensive searching) Mikes 3L swap thread. i think it will help me tremendously but i do have some questions to clearify what i have read. mainly about valve springs.

2.5 or 3L valve springs for the 3L valves. in the thread it says use stock springs. to me that could mean one of 3 different sets SVT, stock 2.5 or 3L my teacher questioned that too.

thanks

I used the stock SVT springs. You have a non svt correct? If so, check them with a spring tension gague and use the heavier springs. I forget what the SVT springs were..... But (just a SWAG) I think that the 2.5 and 3l springs should be the same strength.

Another option is the ST200 springs. However, sources tell me that they are probably not any stronger than the SVT springs...

Originally posted by giddyup306:

I used the stock SVT springs. You have a non svt correct? If so, check them with a spring tension gague and use the heavier springs. I forget what the SVT springs were..... But (just a SWAG) I think that the 2.5 and 3l springs should be the same strength.

Another option is the ST200 springs. However, sources tell me that they are probably not any stronger than the SVT springs...

The Spring Rate For The 2.5 SVT Valve Springs Are 153 Lbs And The ST220 Valve Springs Which...DO FIT, Are Rated At 163 Lbs. And You Can Get Them At Any Ford Dealership. Should Cost Somewhere In The Range Of 60 Bones To Own Them.
Sorry I Dont Remember The Part Number But You May Find It In The 3L Part Numbers Stickie.

As Far As Saving Some Parts Off The 3L, Id Save All Of The Sensors That You Can...ECT Sensor, Knock Sensor, Et Cetera.

Her Is The Link To The Valve Spring Part Number: Click This And Like It!!!

Originally posted by Pale Horse:

Originally posted by giddyup306:

I used the stock SVT springs. You have a non svt correct? If so, check them with a spring tension gague and use the heavier springs. I forget what the SVT springs were..... But (just a SWAG) I think that the 2.5 and 3l springs should be the same strength.

Another option is the ST200 springs. However, sources tell me that they are probably not any stronger than the SVT springs...

The Spring Rate For The 2.5 SVT Valve Springs Are 153 Lbs And The ST220 Valve Springs Which...DO FIT, Are Rated At 163 Lbs. And You Can Get Them At Any Ford Dealership. Should Cost Somewhere In The Range Of 60 Bones To Own Them.
Sorry I Dont Remember The Part Number But You May Find It In The 3L Part Numbers Stickie.

As Far As Saving Some Parts Off The 3L, Id Save All Of The Sensors That You Can...ECT Sensor, Knock Sensor, Et Cetera.

Her Is The Link To The Valve Spring Part Number: Click This And Like It!!!

I almost forgot! Yes save EVERYTHING from both engines untill you are up and running. Then save the sensors for the future. You'll probably never have to buy another sensor again!

~Mike

PH -- are you afraid that your shift key will stop working if you don't press it at least once per word? It's unreadable.

Originally posted by weargle:
PH -- are you afraid that your shift key will stop working if you don't press it at least once per word? It's unreadable.

lol I never realized that untill you pointed it out.

Originally posted by giddyup306:

Originally posted by weargle:
PH -- are you afraid that your shift key will stop working if you don't press it at least once per word? It's unreadable.

lol I never realized that untill you pointed it out.

The Shift Key Helps Me Keep A Rythm While Typing And Allows Me To Type Faster With Fewer Mistakes.

so to my understanding the sensors should all be the same on the block? minus the one i have to drill and tap(i think it is for a 2.5 sensor to fit the 3L block). and another thing well two things which hoses normally wear(sp) the most and are recomended for changing? i am going to try and use all the bolt on pieces(accessories) that are in the car...A/C comp, alt, power steering pump... this is correct right

i did notice how the blocks are almost identical its nucking futs i did come to a problem last night though the accessory pully and harmonic balancer do i need to use the 2.5 pully and get the DMD or should i use the HB off the 3L with the 2.5 pully there are a lot of combinations i will read i promise but i thought id throw the question out there. this is really becoming fun...

Originally posted by Pale Horse:
Rythm

Not so fast there ...

I just found the complete reason why i am using an older engine thank you stazi

"A 96 will have a BUTT-load of miles so you'll need new main bearing and rod bearings and all new rod bolts and main bolts so throw on another $200 onto that list. You'll also most probably need to rear hone the cylinders and thus you'll need all new rings - another $100+. Also add in new timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket, crank seals (front and rear).

Honestly, I think it's pointless building a worn out motor. Why? What's the benefit? You have to rebuild the whole damn thing which could be mostly avoided if you simply took a low mileage Oval-port +01 motor. Then all you need it to port the heads (without removing them) and put new rod bearings in it. That's it."

These are all the things i have to do in my engines class.

ive been set back about a week i just found out today the tour is badly wounded. the clutch mas cylinder high pressure line connector is shot. the clutch system can build no pressure it just shoots brake fluid everywhere. waiting for a new line from Ford i just hope that is the problem we ll see.

all problems fixed...gasket question 3L head gaskets or 2.5L head gaskets which should i use...(guessing the 3L

)

thanks

ding ding ding!

good that wasnt hard. anyone know where i can find piston side clearance specs for the 3L? getting more than .002 way more than that. anyone know the tolerances?

thanks

Originally posted by kscontourkid:
good that wasnt hard. anyone know where i can find piston side clearance specs for the 3L? getting more than .002 way more than that. anyone know the tolerances?

thanks

I can look for you on monday. But I honestly wouldn't bother.

ok update! side clearances were way out of spec. got another motor from a friend at ford...$30 for 30,000 mile locked up motor oil filter blew off it spun a bearing(sp?) and f'd the block. pulled the pistons from it to find out the old pistons had shrunk from overheating. the new 30k pistons fit perfectly in the old block and are in near brand new condition.

i do have an important question

has anyone experienced the 2.5 problem of bending con rods but in the 3L? i know normally in the 2.5 a spun bearing is usually caused by a bent con rod(correct

) this is a little bit different reason why it spun but could it have had an opposite effect on the 3L and by spinning the bearing possibly bent a con rod?
does that question make sense?

thanks
tommy

here is a pic of the main bearing bore from the spun bearing
(Left) bad! (right) what it should look like

ouch

Yeah ouch.

However, since the bearings are inserts and provide the surface for the crank journal, I don't think it would be that much of a problem to fix. I can think of two ways:
Welding is an option but the negatives are how weak would it make the metal around the gash from the heat of the weld? And that metal needs to be strong.
Metal-epoxy filler would be a good bet as that stuff has been used to repair engine blocks literally thousands of times to good results, but some people are inherently against it because it is a high density plastic/metal matrix. Still, a plastic metal matrix can be extremely tough and since nothing is riding against it that is what I'd do in this case if you don't want another block.
Oh, 3rd option would be have it machined down and install a machined steel insert that restores it to stock functionality. Big $ there and you would need a really capable machine shop.

Yeah war is right. A good friend of mine had a SBC block split literally down the lifter valley and just JB welded it together. It lasted him the rest of the season. And in IMCA those cars see 7700RPM for minutes at a time and are harsher than most applications on this forum.

that is not the block i plan to use. i am using the block i started out with. the 98 pistons were fried so i used the 99 pistons that came in the messed up block. they fit perfectly. ive got bearings and am about to order every gasket and seal in the engine for $202.00! my friend is hooking me up. i gave the trash block to him because he can get that fixed for real cheap. he is doing a 3L swap into his ST Focus. he is rediculous. anyway the motor is coming along nicely i will keep posting.

peace

Tommy

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-02-03-04-Ford-ESCAPE-Engine-3-0L-41k-mile-Motor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ8056285550QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

hmmmmmmmm. Thought I would throw this up for anybody that might be looking right now.

I thought about doing it, but I just spent 2k on a HMS tranny so I will wait till next year. I still haven't made up my mind on what I would like to do too. This thread has alot of great info in it.

$950 for a really dirty 41K motor? Dude, look elsewhere, try www.car-part.com.

Originally posted by DanMyers:
$950 for a really dirty 41K motor? Dude, look elsewhere, try www.car-part.com.

Right, or LKQ (I think thats the name)

Originally posted by DanMyers:
$950 for a really dirty 41K motor? Dude, look elsewhere, try www.car-part.com.

Just did a quick search on ebay thats all. That definetly seems like the better route to go. More variety

warmonger and giddyup306 do you guys know what your main journal to bearing clearance specs were. im at the top of specs on three journals and .001 out on the fourth. is this of great concern in the 3L? i have clevitte 77 std bearings. crank is within specs.

also what were your piston ring end gap specs i am sitting a little out of spec on those as well...to much gap...

anything will help