Did I get hosed? Rotor replacement...

Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

I took my car in, and the rotors and pads were *replaced* because the rotors were warped, which I believe was true. However, I've started to wonder if they really replaced the rotors at all or if they just turned them.

First, when I picked up my car they were finishing and looked like they were resurfacing the rotors by sanding them somehow (which was evident by tiny little scratches swept over the entire rotor face). Why would you need to do that with new rotors?

Second, when I went to bleed the brakes, the vane-like sufaces (which I thought should be completely flat if they were new) inside the vent area of the rotors appeared to have rust buildup?

Last, a brake vibration has already started (only had the brakes for 1000 miles at the most).

I'm taking it back in tomorrow to have them fix the vibration, but how can I be sure about the replaced rotors? Just want to be sure, thats all...

I just did a rotor replacement on two Fords and the replacement rotors should not have rust on the inner cooling surface. You do have to clean the new rotors to remove the organic material used for rust protection.

Having turned rotors in the past, used and turned rotors usualyy have rust in the center section and hub (if not metal plated) while new rotors should have no rust at all.

I would complain to the service manager...

Sanding the surface of new rotors is a long time practice. Not saying it's needed, but it commonly done. I do it.

A new rotor, OTOH, should have only fresh metal. No rust.

Talk to them.

Steve

I just went out and noticed that the rotors are rusted in the center where they meet the hub. Also, they appear to be scored...

My gut and this evidence tells me they weren't replaced. Me putting 1200 miles on the brakes shouldn't be a valid argument for them, correct?

I would think that an experienced tech or service manager could tell if they were new or not. After 1200 miles you could very easily have some rust, especially if you have had some rain. New rotors on new cars sometimes have a little rust by the time the car is purchased. The rust should be light though, not caked and flaking. If you are concerned, I would take it back and ask the service manager to have a look at your rotors along with your bill and ask what he thinks.

Did you tell them to replace the rotors or did you just tell them to fix it? If you told them to replace the rotors and you were charged for new ones then you could maybe get some $$.

Originally posted by Big Jim:
I would think that an experienced tech or service manager could tell if they were new or not.

I agree, but whether he tells you what he knows or tries to save his ass is another thing.

Originally posted by Big Jim:
The rust should be light though, not caked and flaking.

But it's not. The rust on the cooling surface of the venting area is built up. Also, the rotors are scored, just like the replaced ones were.

Originally posted by maxx_power76:
Did you tell them to replace the rotors or did you just tell them to fix it?

They said they replaced the rotors b/c turning the old ones would put them below minimum specs. The writeup says the same thing, and my receipt shows that I was charged for 2 rotors.

Additionally (just remembering some stuff), when I talked to them when I brought the car in, they said they had to order the parts, but the work was finished the same day. Doesn't it seem strange that they received the parts the same day they were ordered?

if i ever have to take my car to get it serviced and it is something that is gonna be replaced....i always mark it with a grease pen in the most obscure place ever.....and take a dated photo on my digital camera....takes all of 30 seconds and you got some proof if by chance the place decides to rip me off.....happened to me one time......tried to tell me that my serpentine belt on my zetec was bad.....i quitely showed him the receipt where the serpentine belt had been replaced approx 3 weeks before, asked him if he even looked at the belt, he said, i asked for my keys and left.......

It's been my experience that even new rotors will get some surface rust on the vane and hub areas almost immediately, FWIW.

Ok, *takes a deep breath and cracks the fingers in preparation*

I get there (for the record it's Sears), explain to the service manager the vibration, rust, etc. I politely inquire if it's possible that the rotors were not replaced and just turned (just so that he knows Im wondering, for the sake of the possibility that they weren't replaced).

The car is checked. The first thing the manager says to me is "Hey I noticed your car is souped up. You do any racing with it?" Well I AutoX and drive the car hard (neither since the original brake job though) but Im not about to tell him that (especially since he'd probably use it as an excuse to not fix the car.....which he does). He tells me the new rotors have warped and is like "probably caused by abnormal/hard braking...so you don't drive it fast or race with all that stuff you put on?" "No! I drive it NORMAL!" "Ok, because our warranty doesn't cover hard braking, blah blah, yada yada." So I ask about why it warped so quickly (1200 miles!) and why the rust buildup and he throws a load of BS my way "it can all happen during abnormal braking, wet conditions, etc." Ok, just fix the damn car. So the rotors get turned.

After an hour more than they told me it'd take, I get my keys and ask another service manager why the brakes warped (just to see what crap he'd throw at me). First he tries to give me a lesson on front disc brakes 101. So I ask "why 1200 miles, that seems pretty early, im familiar with them warping at 30-40k?" He starts telling me that its because companies are experimenting with new organic and ceramic brake pads, blah blah, stfu. I leave. I'm betting they'll warp again soon. Maybe I should start a pool?

Now b/c of this $hit i have to decide between driving around 200-300 miles today to let the pads bed in again, or missing an AutoX tomorrow.

So, Im very curious to hear some input about the ordeal. Warped rotors around 6 weeks/1200 miles or not replaced from the get go?

they probably used cheap ass 'MADE IN CHINA' rotors

,and you shouldnt have let them resurface them ,you should have got another set,cause all they did by machining them was make them thinner ,which will cause them to warp easier

If the rust in the cooling vaines is heavy, they probably were not replaced. Find another shop and get another opinion.

Just get the Baers and be done with it all! LOL... if it were only that dam easy?!

Learn to do your own brake work and avoid this frustration. Front brake rotor and pad replacement and brake bleeding are extremely simple tasks and should take less time and effort than washing and waxing your car.

Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Learn to do your own brake work and avoid this frustration. Front brake rotor and pad replacement and brake bleeding are extremely simple tasks and should take less time and effort than washing and waxing your car.

I was at school (without tools) and unable to drive 150 miles back home to do it myself because the brakes were grinding like a *insert expletive here*, and I didn't want to kill myself. You think I did this out of choice? LMAO.

So, 3 years after this SNAFU...I learn from the place that rotated my tires today that the right brake caliper spring is missing. Somehow, by some unbelievable chance, the missing spring has gone unnoticed by everyone who has worked on my car (including myself) in the past 3 years.

So, apparently, Sears forgot to put it back on when I had my brakes worked on 3 years ago. Yippee for me! However, this enlightening news would explain the slight, increasing brake vibration I've noticed since having that work done.

The scary lucky part is that I noticed the technician's note about the missing spring on their copy, yet they failed to mention it to me until I brought up what I saw written down. Thank god I caught this before it got any worse.

Obviously, I have to replace the spring and the pads, which are no brainers to figure out and, hopefully, fairly easy to replace. My question, though, is about the rotors. I'm assuming it's absolutely necessary for them to be either turned or replaced? Should I just replace them and call it a day or is that overkill?

I would at least bring them in and see if they need replacing or turned. Unless you know how to MIC them yourself. But I would definately have them done for sure though. I had the same problem on my Tour as well. I founf that is why my parking brake didnt work.

Go to Advance and get new Raybestos discs and be done with it. Spend about $50 total and have the piece of mind that you have a quality part that you know is new and be done with what is apparently a headache.

Avg price to turn rotors is about $20 total.

Avg price for new rotors is about $40 - $50.

I think you only need a 15mm socket and a ratchet/braker bar. Could of hit a walmart

and like a 10mm to open the bleeder, plus someone to pump.

That really sucks that they did that. Go to another place and ask them, I'm sure they will love to bag the comp.

Also call sears, and express how unhappy you are. Call there headquarters, and explain how your 100% they ripped you off, also you feel you can't trust there service shop anywere in the US because of this, and you also feel the need to warn others.

Like sending an email like this can get you this....

My email...

Ok, let me run you threw this from the start.

I placed an order threw your site for K3332130 order number 2048905. Right after I figured out I ordered the wrong part I used your online customer service (this was 30seconds after the order) I got some story about how you
guys can't cancel an order (yeah ok) and I was pretty much "S.O.L" and will be hit with a 20% restock and so on and so on...

So I figured well my mistake lets reorder the correct part. Order number 2048944 (should of used another site) which was K3332132 part number.. This
is what happen after...

First I get an email about order 2048905 being declined. Then I get an email that order 2048944 is being shipped.

At first I thought, well maybe who ever I talked to found a way to fix the first order and I was all set... Nope, I got order 2048944 which was for K3332132 but got K3332130... so yes you guys shipped the wrong part, and I
say you did this thinking I put a stop on payment.

Other problems... first your phone number states to contact website for RMA number, and to send email. I send you email and you now tell me to call the
number...

So with you now lying that I ordered 2 incorrect part number (though I have all paper work here and it states otherwise) no way to get an RMA number and a F'n restock fee of 20% plus me shipping the damn thing out, I regret the fact I ever tried a new site, and that this site was yours.

There email

A return shipping label will be sent to you to return the wrong filter shipped. If you reorder the filter we will give you free shipping on the reorder. Please call Eric at 609-890-7927 to talk further about this order. Thanks