Castrol GT LMA brake fluid? - 08/04/05 05:17 PM
Several questions.
Has anyone seen any on the shelves and where of course?
Or is there a anything similiar type formulation?
Normal driving except for the 500 miles trips twice year I-80 around Chicago. It's only place I've driven where you speed up around a city to keep from getting run over. In my Mystique LS NO problem. Luv that chassis!
That's why my last brake-jop was Stazi's stuff.
Adherent braking is good to know about, just bit tid-bit this old fart finally understands. Uneven transfer of pad matieral to the rotors NOT warped rotors.
Is there such a process of burnising the rotors instead of cutting/turning? After two Ohio winters I'd like to clean up the rotors or is just best to get them turned? I know there not metal to work with before the rotor too thin, that's why I was burnishing. My idea of burnishing would be to spin the rotors on (device?)while using a 4 inch grinder with wire brush mounted. There again the device/rigging to keep the rotor true?
Any other tight-wads like me have done anything like this?
You don't have to a tight wad!
One last. Looking for replacement slider pin bushings, Ford parts guy doesn't show those seperated anymore. If I remember correctly other CEG'ers have replaced in the past get rid of the schudder during light braking?
I think that's what Stazi mentioned awhile back?
Any ideas or comments greatly appreciated!
TNX
Paul
"LMA" low moisture absorbtion
It must have worked after 2+ years since I last flushed the fluid still looks clean in the caplier piston area. Usually that looks dark or even rusty from the moisture absorbstion?
Has anyone seen any on the shelves and where of course?
Or is there a anything similiar type formulation?
Normal driving except for the 500 miles trips twice year I-80 around Chicago. It's only place I've driven where you speed up around a city to keep from getting run over. In my Mystique LS NO problem. Luv that chassis!
That's why my last brake-jop was Stazi's stuff.
Adherent braking is good to know about, just bit tid-bit this old fart finally understands. Uneven transfer of pad matieral to the rotors NOT warped rotors.
Is there such a process of burnising the rotors instead of cutting/turning? After two Ohio winters I'd like to clean up the rotors or is just best to get them turned? I know there not metal to work with before the rotor too thin, that's why I was burnishing. My idea of burnishing would be to spin the rotors on (device?)while using a 4 inch grinder with wire brush mounted. There again the device/rigging to keep the rotor true?
Any other tight-wads like me have done anything like this?
You don't have to a tight wad!
One last. Looking for replacement slider pin bushings, Ford parts guy doesn't show those seperated anymore. If I remember correctly other CEG'ers have replaced in the past get rid of the schudder during light braking?
I think that's what Stazi mentioned awhile back?
Any ideas or comments greatly appreciated!
TNX
Paul
"LMA" low moisture absorbtion
It must have worked after 2+ years since I last flushed the fluid still looks clean in the caplier piston area. Usually that looks dark or even rusty from the moisture absorbstion?