Okay so I was over at crazy elky's house switching back my mounts to stock OEM ones..After we were done, took the car for a test run and it felt smooth but when I would let off the gas, I would hear some sort of a grinding noise, it was as if somthing was grinding really hard. It was only upon letting go of the gas and letting the car decel..brought it back and made sure everything was tightened. I believe he adjusted the mount again. Took it out for a drive and it felt smooth as a glass. However upon turning right and only right, the car would make that grinding noise. It does not do it when turning left or going straight, only when turning right, Elky thinks its somthing to do with my suspension but the car came into his place making no such grinding noises and now its grinding only turning right?!? I dont understand. I figure this suspension forum would be best for it..Any idea what it is?!? Everything is going wrong for me
when i put the mounts in, i followed advice found here to let the motor 'relax' in the mounts before tightening up the thru bolt.
when gooneroo came back with the initial grinding i loosened the thru bolts, jacked the motor up and retightened the bolts.
now we have his current problem.
another observation is that when i let the car down and teh suspension settled there was a rather loud bang, sounded alost lik i hit the side of the car with the jack handle, but i didn't.
also when the car is on the ground and you rock it back and forth there is a clicking sound coiming from the drivers side front, you can feel it in the wheel.
the endlinks seem tight, the wheel is torqued properly.
he said hes had that noise for ever.
i am at a loss.
Did you guys do just front and rear mounts or left and right?
R the top (not the plate that holds the spring) but the top plates in the front engine bay too tight. Mine where getting caught up on the tower somehow.. So I just loosen them some so they can turn easy and no more click bang.
As far as the grinding I would say the motor miss alignment and maybe putting too much on one axle.. (these r only suggestions) hope you guys figure it out.
JD
it might be miss alligned but my car has been shaking badly too on the highway and now after yesterday its doing it at like going 45 or so, shaking from the right from what I can feel..i dunno, maybe i need new axles?
Bad wheel bearing or outer CV joint I bet. I'm replacing a wheel bearing ATM after getting a vibration through the brake pedal. I thought it was a warped rotor but I can shake the tire a bit. Here's a quote from the bearing replacement how-to. It sounds similar to your problem.
quote=Ray] whirring, buzzing, or metallic grinding noise on one side of the car.. predominant when turning the vehicle, to shift the weight on to THAT BAD bearing (ex. left turns will make the right one sound louder, or appear... and vice versa.. if you make a right turn and hear what some people call "an airplane engine" sound, then your LEFT bearing is probably gone.
To test.. jack the car up enough to take the tire off the ground, and see if there is any play in the tire (up and down, etc.. if you can wiggle the tire.. EVEN A LITTLE, it is a bad bearing.)
Ray
Sounds exactly the same as when my drive side bearing went south, ANY steering off center ONLY towards to the right would bring on a grinding sound. I replaced the driver side bearing and everything was fine.
I had a grinding on the drivers side when turning at lower speeds. Replacing the axle fixed it.
Originally posted by Ray:
To test.. jack the car up enough to take the tire off the ground, and see if there is any play in the tire (up and down, etc.. if you can wiggle the tire.. EVEN A LITTLE, it is a bad bearing.)
Ray
this is funny, cause elky did this test, the wheels were off the ground and he wiggled the tire and it moved ALOT! lol, so that means bad wheel bearing? 
A bad wheel bearing? When I had my Tempo I had 3 different shops wiggle the front drivers side wheel and do that test and tell me it was my tie rod going bad.
yea but heres the weird part, the grinding noise doesnt come from the wheel, it comes from the center. Almost feels like somthing not alligned and its a metal to metal grind..
im soo lost, and the vibrations now, i dont understand whats causing those..
If it wiggles side to side only, it's usually a tierod end. Up and down and it could be the ball joint. Rocking it in any direction and you have a bad bearing. That coupled with your grinding noises makes me think it's the bearing. A bad CV joint will grind and click but won't cause the wheel to rock as is the case here.
Originally posted by Mustang:
If it wiggles side to side only, it's usually a tierod end. Up and down and it could be the ball joint. Rocking it in any direction and you have a bad bearing. That coupled with your grinding noises makes me think it's the bearing. A bad CV joint will grind and click but won't cause the wheel to rock as is the case here.
My LCA's were recently replaced not too long ago so I have new ball joints and what not..tie-rods according to elky at the time seemed fine so im pretty sure it must be the wheel bearing..
Originally posted by Mustang:
If it wiggles side to side only, it's usually a tierod end. Up and down and it could be the ball joint. Rocking it in any direction and you have a bad bearing. That coupled with your grinding noises makes me think it's the bearing. A bad CV joint will grind and click but won't cause the wheel to rock as is the case here.
Nice, thanks for the clarification! 
Hate to be the one bearing you bad news (bad pun). NAPA has them in stock, SKF FW177 for $44.40. But you gotta find someone to press it in. In that how-to thread, you can buy the whole assembly for $160.00. I dunno if that'd be cheaper than having someone press it in for you. I'd be willing to do the work for free but the drive may not be worth it.
Originally posted by Mustang:
Hate to be the one bearing you bad news (bad pun). NAPA has them in stock, SKF FW177 for $44.40. But you gotta find someone to press it in. In that how-to thread, you can buy the whole assembly for $160.00. I dunno if that'd be cheaper than having someone press it in for you. I'd be willing to do the work for free but the drive may not be worth it.
is there a special tool for pressing it in?
LOL...so you thought poles mounts made your car a bad drive and you really had a bad wheel bearing!
OWNAGE!
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
is there a special tool for pressing it in?
A bearing press. It's a real tight fit so trying to hammer it in isn't a good idea 
Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoâ�??¢:
LOL...so you thought poles mounts made your car a bad drive and you really had a bad wheel bearing!
OWNAGE!
I haven't gotten that far yet Mr. hard core cger. Ask me after I've received the goods. I suggest you post your comments in the proper section and stay on topic here.
Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoâ�??¢:
LOL...so you thought poles mounts made your car a bad drive and you really had a bad wheel bearing!
OWNAGE!
the pole mounts was really rough on my car, it still shook on the highways regardless of the mounts..The mounts just made my car loud and very rough..
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
yea but heres the weird part, the grinding noise doesnt come from the wheel, it comes from the center. Almost feels like somthing not alligned and its a metal to metal grind..
im soo lost, and the vibrations now, i dont understand whats causing those..
The vibrations happen also when going in a staight line? Jack up one wheel, throw the ebrake, put it indrive and listen to the wheel as it spins (dont' give it any gas, ever) then do the other side to see if you can hear a difference. From one side to the other. I'm thinking bearing now myself. How far from RI r you lol I want to check this out 
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoâ�??¢:
LOL...so you thought poles mounts made your car a bad drive and you really had a bad wheel bearing!
OWNAGE!
the pole mounts was really rough on my car, it still shook on the highways regardless of the mounts..The mounts just made my car loud and very rough..
Pete, I told him 1000 times it was not the mounts. They just show the vibration more because they are stiff. If the car wasn't vibrating alot to begin with, the mounts would of been perfect. But hey, he don't listen to me.
Originally posted by jd28:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
yea but heres the weird part, the grinding noise doesnt come from the wheel, it comes from the center. Almost feels like somthing not alligned and its a metal to metal grind..
im soo lost, and the vibrations now, i dont understand whats causing those..
The vibrations happen also when going in a staight line? Jack up one wheel, throw the ebrake, put it indrive and listen to the wheel as it spins (dont' give it any gas, ever) then do the other side to see if you can hear a difference. From one side to the other. I'm thinking bearing now myself. How far from RI r you lol I want to check this out
Manuals have a Drive gear?!?! You learn something new every day! 
Originally posted by CSVT1214:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoâ�??¢:
LOL...so you thought poles mounts made your car a bad drive and you really had a bad wheel bearing!
OWNAGE!
the pole mounts was really rough on my car, it still shook on the highways regardless of the mounts..The mounts just made my car loud and very rough..
Pete, I told him 1000 times it was not the mounts. They just show the vibration more because they are stiff. If the car wasn't vibrating alot to begin with, the mounts would of been perfect. But hey, he don't listen to me.
I never said that mounts made my car shake on the highways, it just made everything rough inside my car say if I was sitting idle and what not..everything inside smade noises that i couldnt bare with..but i knew the mounts weren't causing the car to shake..
so I drove the car some more today, it drove really really bad. Felt almost as if somthing will just break out. The passenger side seem to shake alot, even at low speeds. Turning right I would hear some grinding. I got home and decided the car isnt drivable untill I figure out what it is. This thread seems to favor my wheel bearings failing on me..maybe that BANG elky and I heard while lowering the car down was my bearing saying its final goodbye? i dont know, but i need to find out ASAP because i want to get all the parts ordered and in by this comming weekend..so now what Ray described up top about testing for a bad wheel bearing, i'll try that tommorow and see..any other suggestions or tips on making sure its my bearings? thanks
Jack up 1 side and remove the wheel. Grab the hub and check it for lateral play. There shouldn't be any at all. If it wiggles, the bearing is shot or the spindle nut might be loose. Spindle nut being loose is highly unlikely but you never know. Also a good idea before performing the check is to push the caliper piston in a bit. This gives you clearance around the brake pads which otherwise might throw off your test. Check both sides this way and if bad, you'll need a new bearing, spindlenut and anti-seize compound for the bearing OD and ID.
when i checked for play inthe front end, the movement you saw gooneroo wasn't from a really bad tie rod or anything that was the 'play' in the rack. if you had watched the steering wheel when i did that it would have been moving a little.
i didnt feel any play in the bearings at all.
i am leaning towards bearings or CVs.
its kinda funny how it is only when the car is not under load when this happens. if you take a right turn while on the throttle even just a little bit, it doesn't do it.
well, at least it didnt friday night.
Haroon says with the original mounts in the car it never did this. and it never did it with the filled mounts.
but with the brand new factory mounts it does it.
i want to try and preload the front mount more, the rear is as high as it can go and that got rid of the straight line vibration.
why is the thru hole on the mounts 10 times larger than the diameter of the thru bolt?
I fyou need a bearing replaced in your hub - I am your man.
Ive been reading more info too and this cant just be the bearings, but also axles from my description of the car shaking slightly first but gradually getting worse..well now its worse people have said that they have heard like humming noise which indicate a bad bearing, well im hearing no humming noise, just feeling the car shake like crazy even going in second gear!! passenger side shaking too! read
Originally posted by warmonger:
Keep in mind that I have both of my old blown axles still in the garage and they look like new still! 
The vibration had gotten so bad under acceleration that the mirror and passenger seat started to shake going uphill. I let it go a while before they got that bad and as I said the problem first began to manifest itself as a vibration in the 60-75mph range that was slight and annoying at first, unable to be "balanced" away; gradually getting worse up to the excessive case I stated above. The rims, rotors, LCAs, all were new or replaced. One new hub was put on too and always I had that vibration until I put in new axles.
So take this story for what its worth.
so yea..i'll hafta look into that too..
i cant figure it out exactly though what it is, bad axle or bad bearing, or just drive the car off a cliff and call it the day
If you can pinpoint which side of the car it's on, replace both.
Stazi can hook you up with a new hub w/ the bearing pressed in. I believe NAPA can get you a bearing and even press it in for a good deal as well. Install an axle, and see if things get better.
Mark
Originally posted by DanMyers:
Originally posted by jd28:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
yea but heres the weird part, the grinding noise doesnt come from the wheel, it comes from the center. Almost feels like somthing not alligned and its a metal to metal grind..
im soo lost, and the vibrations now, i dont understand whats causing those..
The vibrations happen also when going in a staight line? Jack up one wheel, throw the ebrake, put it indrive and listen to the wheel as it spins (dont' give it any gas, ever) then do the other side to see if you can hear a difference. From one side to the other. I'm thinking bearing now myself. How far from RI r you lol I want to check this out
Manuals have a Drive gear?!?! You learn something new every day!
Opps, I'm soo used to ATX lol
Turn your wheel right, block off the passenger wheel up front with chocks or bricks. Do the same to the rear, throw the ebrake, bring up the driver wheel off the ground. Place jack stand in there. Have helper start car, being ready for anything to happen (which shouldn't unless you have front posi in your MTX or ATX or whatever you have lol) you should be able to come off the clutch and get that wheel to spin. Take a paper towel roll or long card board tube to use it to listen (so you don't have to get your ear too close to any moving parts) have safty glasses on because the wheel will fling dirt and so on. I know you can do this to ATX, I don't know about MTX so if I'm wrong someone please say don't do that! Hope this helps or works. I've only did it once to a ATX but it told me which side it was.
Jeremy
figured out both of goonzerinos problems.
when he did his lower control arms he did the cut and upside down bolt method.
but he reused one of the original big bolts and it was hitting the tranny case!
but we noticed the new bolts were shorter, so we replaced it with a shorter bolt and tightened teh motor mount with the motor as high in them as it would go.
no more tranny hitting.
as for the vibration, spinning his wheel showed us the 1/2" deflection in his axle.
time for a new one!
So basically he used the wrong bolt for the wrong hole? If I understood it correctly.
Originally posted by CSVT1214:
So basically he used the wrong bolt for the wrong hole? If I understood it correctly.
no you didnt understand correctly..I put the bolt upside down but at that time I had the pole mount so the engine and tranny were stiff and no hitting at that time. However upon putting in OEM mounts, the softer compound made the motor settle in a litte more thus allowing the tranny to hit the bolt tip..also we noticed the same bolt but newer one was a little shorter in length so we threw that in and now its perfect..
but yea time for a new axle..
Originally posted by ElKy:
figured out both of goonzerinos problems.
when he did his lower control arms he did the cut and upside down bolt method.
but he reused one of the original big bolts and it was hitting the tranny case!
but we noticed the new bolts were shorter, so we replaced it with a shorter bolt and tightened teh motor mount with the motor as high in them as it would go.
no more tranny hitting.
as for the vibration, spinning his wheel showed us the 1/2" deflection in his axle.
time for a new one!
Sweetness! Great to hear you guys nailed it!
Originally posted by CSVT1214:
So basically he used the wrong bolt for the wrong hole? If I understood it correctly.
from what i have heard goonzerbio has a problem with the wrong hole..not usually the wrong bolt...
but yeah as he said, the new bolt was slightly shorter than the old.
no real harm was done, the bolt chipped a little bit off of one of the ribs on the tranny, but there was no cracking of the case or anything.