I recently purchased a 1997 Contour GL with 80,000 miles (no idea of any mechanical work done previously) and am extremely pleased with its' overall performance. In fact, the only real complaint that I have with it performance-wise is that it is extremely rough when idling.

It only does it when idling in Drive while I have the brakes applied, like when at a stoplight. If I let off the brakes momentarily it will stop but start back up again the moment I apply them again. I've idled in park for hours without any vibration whatsoever. It's not just a little vibration either, it's rather jarring and of course particularly loud. It's enough that you can noticably see the dash and steering wheel move at least 1/4 inch up and down, and enough that at particularly long lights I will just put it in Park.

Note that it doesn't sound like it wants to stall at all. The engine itself sounds perfectly fine. It's just very very rough and goes right back to feeling normal the moment I let off the brakes.

Any ideas on what it could be? I'm new to owning a car, and while I have worked on cars with my father in the past, I've never had to actually diagnose the issues, I've just fixed them.

Appreciate any help,
-Mark

You could try new plugs and wires if they look like they are the original ones.
Mine is a little rough in drive at a stop, rather than put it in park, you can just slide it in nuetral, its easier.

I appreciate the help, and you'll have to excuse my ignorance of these things, but I love to learn new things and of course a car is a whole wealth of things to learn about.

I'm not questioning your judgement, as you obviously would know more on the matter than I would, but simply out of my own curiousity and desire to learn more, why would the plugs and wires only affect performance when the car is in drive and not when in park, or neutral? The only difference is that my foot is not on the brake, and the engine itself sounds fine no matter the gear I'm in. Or at least as fine as an engine that feels like it's shaking itself to pieces can sound -- no stutters or obvious misfires.

The reason I mentioned the wires and plugs is because mine idled pretty bad in drive just like yours, and when I replaced them, it got a lot better. Mabye mine were just bad, anyway.

Click here for a lot more info about some other options to cure the problem.

Might be spongy motor mounts. How much does the engine vibrate when you pop the hood while it's idling?

(Of course, it might be good to have someone keep a foot on the brake, since it will be in Drive...)

I was going to suggest checking out the motor mounts as well. I just had that done on my car last year. Mine was incredibly rough when I was sitting idle at a light. Have some shift your car into gear while you are looking at the engine. If it move, you've got your answer. Good luck!

vibration would most likely be motor mounts,,, i've done lots of maintenance crap to my car and the idle has gotten much better, plugs and wires, mobil1 oil, and a nice intake have all helped my idle to be smooth.

I realize this thread is old, as well as this thread, but it certainly applies to me and I see no resolution in the threads.

This TSB for the 2.0 '95 zetecs

"TSB# BC105689705: VIBRATION AT IDLE WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE IN GEAR.

Concern 52: Install SOP for steering wheel vibration -#75
Cause: Perform TSB
Correction: Repl. outlined components

Wheel ASY - Steering (Part # FMC F7RZ 3600 CC)

*Module ASY - Elect (Pt # FMC F7RZ 54043B13 ABB)

Damper ASY (Pt # FMC F7RZ 3F690 AA)

Support - Radiator (Qty. 2) (Pt # FMC F7RZ 16138 AA)
"

seems to say that Ford admits that we have a problem here. Has anyone performed the above maintenance actions for this themselves, and did it help? My car runs great but man does it shake at idle, in drive. I would also be interested if anyone knows how to increase the idle rpms without spending a lot. Thanks