Getting K&N RU-3530. What to do with IAT?

Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

Hi all. It has been a LONG time since my last post, but I'm glad to see that you're all still here.

I currently have the KKM True-Rev kit, but I'm looking to replace the S&B filter. It has holes in the fabric from when my battery exploded (battery acid). I currently have a hole drilled in the flange of the S&B where the IAT is inserted.

Here is the question I hope you all can help me answer before I buy the K&N.

Is drilling a hole in the flange of a filter a "good idea?" If so, I'll find a K&N with a longer flange. If not, what is everyone doing, and/or would someone provide me with the instructions for using the IAT Sampling Tube included with the KKM. I do not want to spend anymore money, if possible.

Thanks in advance.

William

As long as it is sealed, there should be no problems. I have considered doing this myself, like Demon did, when I finally make a heatshield. Should be easy enough, but I can ruin any project FAST.

What if there is no room for it to be mounted anywhere? I too have the same problem. Right now I just have it hanging there. Hope it not hurting anything not being in the air flow(?)

Is there a way to bypass it?

Originally posted by BrianW:
1. What if there is no room for it to be mounted anywhere? I too have the same problem.
2. Right now I just have it hanging there. Hope it not hurting anything not being in the air flow(?)
3. Is there a way to bypass it?

1. Find a way to mount it in a heatshield by the filter inlet (so so placement) or better yet in the flange or filter base.

2. Probably just causing it to pull some timing due to engine bay heat soak. (minor power loss)

3. No, nor would you even want to.

i just put the whole thing inside of the intake setup - ran wires inbetween MAF adapter and K&N so it is just hanging inside there

Quote:

i just put the whole thing inside of the intake setup - ran wires inbetween MAF adapter and K&N so it is just hanging inside there

I don't understand what you're saying....

well as i was connecting the filter (ru-3530) to the maf, i just put the IAT sensor inside with the wires running out and tightened the clamp up

Quote:

well as i was connecting the filter (ru-3530) to the maf, i just put the IAT sensor inside with the wires running out and tightened the clamp up

So are you saying your IAT sensor is dangling inside the filter/MAF connection?! That's got to be one of the dumbest ideas I've ever heard.

what else am i supposed to do with it. i have a intake tube on the way with a IAT inlet in the MAF adapter, but what should i do with it in the meantime?

Originally posted by JasonJ:
what else am i supposed to do with it. i have a intake tube on the way with a IAT inlet in the MAF adapter, but what should i do with it in the meantime?

Just zip tie it right near the air filter - it'll be a very sub-optimal place but WAY better than dangling inside the filter. It would really suck if the wires let go and your engine ate the IAT, and even if they don't it's a pretty big obstruction to airflow.

For now mine sits on top of the filter tied to the MAF wires so it won't move around. Will fix it before summer when heatsoak will become an issue again.

i thought it had to be directly in the airflow. but anyway, i guess ill go move it asap. thanks though

Quote:

i thought it had to be directly in the airflow. but anyway, i guess ill go move it asap.

Not the WHOLE thing though, wow. Good idea on moving it.

well i moved it, just ziptied it to the throttle or cruise control cable wrap(dont remember exactly which one. but its not hanging inside my heatshield almost touch the K&N. i didnt think that the entire thing had to be in the airflow, but i wasnt about to drill anything and it seemed like a reasonable option at the time. oh well, we learn from our mistakes!

Ok... I was also looking at the KN RC-4630

K&N RC-4630 (RU-3530)
Mounting Dia = 3 1/2" (3 3/4")
Filter Base = 5 1/2" (5 3/8")
Filter Top = 4 1/2" (4 3/8")
Filter Length = 6 1/2" (7")
Flange = 1 1/4" (5/8")

Compared to the RU-3530, its got a 1/8" wider base, 1/8" wider top, and overall length (Filter + Flange) is 1/8" longer... Although I'm not sure if the extra 5/8" flange is buying enough room for the IAT. It will be more expensive though, because of the chrome ($8.20 more @ ajusa.com).

Originally posted by wk217:
Ok... I was also looking at the KN RC-4630

K&N RC-4630 (RU-3530)
Mounting Dia = 3 1/2" (3 3/4")
Filter Base = 5 1/2" (5 3/8")
Filter Top = 4 1/2" (4 3/8")
Filter Length = 6 1/2" (7")
Flange = 1 1/4" (5/8")

It is definitely a decent choice and the extra flange area would make mounting the IAT much easier.

RU-3530 is 5.375x4.375x7 = ~645cfm Effective area

RC-4630 is 5.5x4.5x6.5 = ~615cfm Effective area

BTW - Optimum size for a NA 2.5L is 600-650cfm Effective area.

Well guys, I just found a picture of the RC-4630 on ebay HERE.

It seems like there will be just enough space to drill a hole for the IAT in the flange. What do you all think?