oil gauge install / air-fuel install

Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

I have the engine out of the car, so I figure now is the easiest time to install the sending unit to the block. I found the hex nut that was behind the compressor, it looks like I'm going to have to buy another fitting/reducer so it will fit the kit.

1. After you guys mounted it to the block, what route did you use for the tubing? What is easiest and low-risk from heat/rotating objects?

I also have a lights and whistles gauge (air/fuel) and I haven't looked at it in a while, but I think it said to connect it to the lower o2 sensor. Now, I have MSDS headers going in with my 3L, and instead of installing MIL Elim's I was just going to disable my lower o2's via the prp/xcal2.

2. Will disabling the lower o2's effect the A/F gauge? Will it still work, just not be read by the PCM, meaning the gauge will work, or does it mean the gauge will not work.

Yes, I know an A/F gauge is pretty worthless unless it's wideband...but thats not really in the budget right now. Any info is appreciated.

You will hook it into the up stream o2, otherwise your different the purpose of the gauge. And be sure to send it to gadgetseller.com to make it more accurate and not just a light show! And no, the downstream o2s won't affect the a/f gauge.

how do they make the a/f gauge more accurate...?

Originally posted by posthuman63t:
how do they make the a/f gauge more accurate...?

http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/index.htm

Thanks for the info. I am sending my gauge to them tomorrow.

That solves 1 of my questions....still wondering how everyone routed their tubing for their mechanical oil pressure gauges from the hex bolt behind the A/c compressor to the firewall.

Related question to your post, do you have to remove the A/C compressor to gain access to that hex bolt? As my engine is still in the car and I would like to install my gauge there. Thanks.

Originally posted by posthuman63t:
how do they make the a/f gauge more accurate...?

buy a wideband

The narrowband works to slow.

Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Related question to your post, do you have to remove the A/C compressor to gain access to that hex bolt? As my engine is still in the car and I would like to install my gauge there. Thanks.

My engine is out of the car. there isn't much room between the two, I'd suggest taking off your serp. belt and removing the bolts holding on the ac compressor. If memory serves me correctly, its only 3 bolts then you can move it away w/out any problems.

And Tourige...gimme some cash and I'll buy a Wideband...

Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Related question to your post, do you have to remove the A/C compressor to gain access to that hex bolt? As my engine is still in the car and I would like to install my gauge there. Thanks.

IIRC, you have to unbolt it to gain access, but not disconnect it.

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
IIRC, you have to unbolt it to gain access, but not disconnect it.

Sweet I didn't want to disconnect the A/C lines and have R134a spraying all over. So what kind of adaptors have you guys used to install the sensor? I'm assuming I'm going to have to buy some 90 degree bends so I can screw in the pressure sending unit. Or will the thing fit in there behind the A/C compressor? It's the standard sending unit the big knober deal with the stud sticking out the end.

I assumed he was referencing a mechnical gauge. I think someone did an electrical one there years ago, but that would be a huge PITA moreso than the mechnical one, it might even be a super tight fit.

Yea I doubt that sending unit would fit, there isn't that much room.

The only issue I'm looking to respolve is how everyone with mechanical gauges, who tapped into that spot...How they ran the line that runs to the gauge. I mean, is it safe to run this line against the block (which runs behind the header) or what? Going the long way around would bring up issues with the serp. belt. So, just curious how ya'll have them going.

Why wouldn't you go vertical from the spot behind the compressor then bring it across the valve cover, behind the engine cover then underneath the air intake to the firewall? I would assume that would be the easiest route. Either that or come up vertical and follow the plug wires, except go underneath the passenger side engine mount to the fire wall and pass through where the ECU is behind the power steering reservoir. Only thing with that route is you would have to send the line behind the dash from the passenger side.

As far as mounting the oil pressure sensor why couldn't I run a 90 off of it and then straight down with stainless line to a fitting where I could mount the sensor. Only thing is I'm starting to wonder if I would be better off mounting it to the back cylinder head, but I heard that, that is a poor spot to mount it and the reading isn't great. So I guess the question is which is the best of these two bad options?

Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Yea I doubt that sending unit would fit, there isn't that much room.

The only issue I'm looking to respolve is how everyone with mechanical gauges, who tapped into that spot...How they ran the line that runs to the gauge. I mean, is it safe to run this line against the block (which runs behind the header) or what? Going the long way around would bring up issues with the serp. belt. So, just curious how ya'll have them going.

Mine has copper tubing ran. With the plastic stuff I'd be very careful how I routed it and maybe put some wire loom around it. Mine is just ran across the front, and up over the tranny